Great weld...but a couple questions you didn't explain in the video that will help some guys our. Did you use 3/32 rod all the way out, what amps did you run thr hot pass and cap at? Also did you consume your bridge tacks or did you grind them out?
Id never met a welder that consumed the bridge tacks on piping that required X ray... well actually im lying, yes i have met one, but this guy got a hard on for Mig welding, especially when he knew that the pipe required no x ray and he could just tie in to his bridge tack. Anyways, when dealing with smaller thin walled pipe, obviously you would want to burn a bit colder, otherwise you will interpass the crap out of the pipe. You cant burn a 1/8 rod at 80 amps, let alone 50 amps, so you have to use a smaller wire. I like to burn my cap a little colder than my fill, so i can have good control of my puddle
I've found my sweet spot is a 2.4mm gap, root with 1.6mm wire at 68 amps. I run the cap quite hot and quick at around 80-85 with 1.6mm wire again. Leaves a lovely tight weave 🤙 I'd only ever use bridge tacks on site welds when purging the entire line isn't efficient for the sake of a few tacks.
great video it help me a lot. Anyway, I would like to see the stainless stick for fill and cap at 6G position for F6/F5 welding test. Thank you for the video.
Great video I have a question, if the pipe is for fluids flowing through them would they ha e a issue with the weld build up on the inside causing restriction to the flow ? As always thank you for sharing with us the great videos.
Yes it would. A reduction in crossectional area means the fluids flow rate will increase (speed up) also a reduction in area increases the Reynolds number which means the flow might become more turbulent
I work for a company that primarily fabricates pipe for ethanol plant. They don’t like big heavy roots like that for the reasons you’re asking. We generally use a 30 degree bevel with a very sharp landing 1/16” at most. But the two joints right up or just a fraction of daylight and weld around 100 amps and using 1/16th filler rod. The roots look like you just tig wash the inside. It works pretty nice to be honest
Are you purging the 2" pipe as you are filling the gap? Would a cylindrical copper sleeve, used as a backer, work without causing problems? What helmet setup are you using?
Well the guys running the Grand Canyon for a gap. 75 amps and a 1/16”-1/8” gap you can jam this thing out capped by the time he’s got that fat ass root in lol
I remember i tested next to a guy who did the same thing you did, he got sugar all around his root weld. Either he did not open his argon, or....well i dont know what other reason it could be. I kind of took enjoyment in what happen to him, before the test he was this Don Honcho of pipe welding, talking a mile a minute in my booth.....then, he went to Mr. Sugar Man....thats what i remember him since then.....Mr Sugar Man.
Question for Everyone/Anyone that knows. Is it good to practice welding with 6010 when I need to learn 8010 but can’t afford the 8010 rods. Trying to learn downhill pipe but can’t afford 200$ for 8010 rods when 6010 rods are 25$ a box. Yea or no should I be doing this or just bite the bullet and try to get the 8010 rods. I just don’t know if they run similar or not. Any help appreciated.
South Sports Outdoors yes bro definitely worth saving the money just to practice. But sooner or later once you have everything down that pertains with downhill pipe welding, I would advice to bite the bullet and weld with some 8010 just to see how they burn..
Pisses me off when you have 5 different QCs that would disagree and agree with you. "Too heavy....Too low....Too close to flush....Reweld the root....im having a bad day, so im failing this root, even though its perfect all the way around"
How can u avoid tungsten inclusion..i bust an xray on that..slick root..slick cap..but a spot on the bevel were i kind of stuck a lil bit and it showed up on the xray..how do i avoid that
If you got to the point, where you can call your root and cap SLICK - you should be able to manipulate the torch carefully enough without dipping the tungsten, but if you do so - just grind it out.
I would like to also add to this, whenever i visually see that i even dipped my tip a little bit (😏) i like to go back with a grinder and just lightly grind into the spot or spots.
You could also leave that full piece of tungsten sticking out of the weld, put a fresh piece in your torch, light up where the first tungsten is stuck and the whole piece will just fall out. This doesnt work if you stick the tungsten and break the tip off in the weld.
No reason for a 5/32 gap in that man your gap and root are to heavy what y’all got going on down there dude why do guys always leave an entire caterpillar of weld in these pipe.no need for it
Backfeeding is extremely popular on the gulf coast and most places love seeing a 3/32 - 1/8 reinforcement on the inside. Of course this depends on the application but many places get a hard on for that shit on this side of the country
I am a young man living in Korea. I don't know how to speak English, so I'm using a translator. Is there any way to get the welding surface that is being used in RU-vid videos?
when encountering spots in the field that harry houdeni coudln't get into , it's then that you know what your fitter is thinking and it aint good thoughts for you or about you as a weldor... and something needs to be done about that cause it aint the welders problem but it's a problem he got put in the box of by a fitter that like i said Harry Houdini couldn't get out of. So, with that said, if the fitter is so job-scared that he's making you look bad as a weldor in order to elevate himself for having just got a fit for you then it's time for real talk with the right people. Sometimes real talk means you part ways with people who aint a good fit for you. So, don't let people "sucker punch you" cause they will do it all day if you as a weldor allow them too. You as a weldor got to put a stop to it. Whatever it takes. Amicably. Assertively.
The tape keeps the gas inside. It's called a purge. With stainless you have to fill the pipe with shielding gas to protect the molten metal from the atmosphere.
