Curious to know how the flooring expansion worked out over time, because Cali (and all wood flooring makers) say that you should not butt the flooring up against any immovable object (such as this nosing). Expansion gaps are supposed to be everywhere. I'm planning an install around my staircase now and I'm struggling with the proper resolution to many topics like this regarding how to hide the gaps.
Thanks for this video. I think I can do this. I saw a This old house video which involved routing for a spline. Way to complicated. I'm glad to learn I can do it this way. I'll use screws instead of nails.
Looks good. Apply your putty over the nail holes, then give the whole nosing a scuff with maybe a 400 grit, and apply some satin polyurethane. It will match the bamboo flooring very close to perfect. Good job!
Nice I like to use PLP contractor glue in between the finish nail. If you press down on the front of the nosing the hole board will lift soon the nosing will be come unstable
This will not last the full course of a year. “Don’t forget expansion” ... then don’t nail a stair nose that you wanted attached and flush to the floor. That literally defeats the purpose of the expansion gap. This is why they make stair noses that we all hate that go over the top of the floor and leave room for expansion.
I know this video is 5 yrs old. but I couldn't find the molding you described on Amazon. I was wondering if you remembered the LINK. I've searched the internet extensively, I've been to Lowe's and Home Depot and I'm hitting a dead end on every turn. All the laminate floor manufacturers provide an overlapping trim and that's not what I want. I'm looking for a flush bull nose at the top of my stairs as shown in your video. I'm almost to the point where I'm going to mill my own. It's mind boggling why flooring manufacturers don't offer a flush option like in your video.
Have Questions My stairs and living room had carpet and I removed the carpet from the living room and install Cali bamboo flooring. I wanted to cut the carpet on the nose of the landing and do the samethiing you did and use a 7inc white pine to cover the 7 inch dropped into the living room. Because the carpet was transition from the stairs landing all the way into the living room as one piece Is possible to to use that transition noses for that purpose any suggestion will be greatly appreciated
of course you can. The installation of the nosing is important and I would do it differently than this video. This was a floating floor install and the nosing nailed to the floor will not be. And this nosing will not last more than a year as it was not glued or screwed. If you have the expertise and tools I would have installed the nosing by installing a spline in between. However, that requires a router and bit and some know how. But to answer you question...yes a wood nosing about 3" wide is how I would have done it. Otherwise, they do make laminate nosing with a track that is screwed to the floor first and then the nosing snaps into it. That is probably best of all as it would be same material as floor and let the nosing float with the floor. One thing I would like to add and many would disagree is wood movement and expansion joints are over rated.
Nice job, but I think it was a better idea for safty reason if you applied glue first then screwed instead of nailing. Thanks for sharing this video though.
I see 2 mistakes installing nailed down bull nose with a floating bamboo. One, bamboo is floated with soft underlayment after time of expending and shrinking you might get a gap. Two, headless nails on the bull nosing may not be enough , you need screws.
@@HelpingHand1 ok. Thats what i am doing with mine. I will only have one transition to do. I am putting oak treads on stairs. I figured stair nosing are too hard to find so i think is better to put oak treads. I will let you know soon. Thanks
Use the other type of nosing (with the lip instead of the flush edge), leave a gap for expansion and contraction, don't forget a good adhesive and use screws with oak plugs to cover the countersink of the screw. You'll have to sand and finish the oak pugs, but his suggestion to use finish nails for a top stair nosing is not secure enough for a piece that will take the mechanical punishment that a top stair nosing is exposed to. Finish nails are more for items like door casing that have minimal exposure to mechanical stress. A top stair nosing is exactly the opposite. I'm a stickler, so I would even put a second screw behind the first (if the frame below the floor allows) because the single screw can eventually act as a hinge instead of a fastener.
