In case anyone was scratching their head, The gloves he's using are food handler Polyethylene gloves, not Nitrile. Nitrile gloves are the rubbery stretchable "medical" gloves. Polyethylene (PE) and Polypropylene (PP) are 2 plastics CA doesn't bond well without primers so make great gloves/ surfaces to use when working with CA glue!
When I' get very small hinges to install on a box lid they usually come with small, short screws which don't get good purchase in the wood sometimes, and I've had the hinge pull out when someone put too much of a twist on the top. Now after I get the hinges installed the first time I back out the screws and put a drop of thin CA on a toothpick so I can wick it down inside the screw holes. Once it has dried I reinstall the screws. It reinforces the wood so the screws don't pull free as easily.
Hey Colin, love your vids. Instead of shaving a stick down to use to fill an old screw hole I buy a bag of wooden golf tees which are tapered already and use those, then use a flush cut saw to cut off. Cheers from England
I have a bunch of wooden skewers in my shop for things like this. I imagine the golf tees are probably a better wood than the bamboo skewers, but I’ve never had a problem with them.
I had to assemble a large dolls house for a friend I couldn't have done it without this glue, no work shop should be without it. A must for assembling mdf cornice for top of kitchen units.I like your videos Colin, all the best from Ireland
I never heard of CA glue but I’m definitely gonna buy some. I love your videos! They’re right to the point without any BS and they’re short so I can watch the entire video before my ADD kicks in.
You've probably used CA (cyanoacrylate) glue before; Superglue/Crazyglue are brand names of CA glue. As a side note, if you hear someone talking about "PVA glue", that's basically Elmer's Glue-All, or what some people call "white glue" (It dries mostly clear), and I believe is the basis for most wood glues also.
Great video, very informative. Just ordered my first batch of CA glue and found this video. So many ideas on using CA glue that I would not have thought of. Thank you!
CA Glue for picture frames! I’m just starting to make picture frames and I never would have considered that but it’s a perfect idea! Thank you so much for this Colin!!
@@sirbrewzalot , I made two frames using another brand of high-quality CA last weekend. Works great. You have to use a good quality glue. Stop trying to save money on cheap CA and yours will be fine as well. Keep watching, he has lots of good tips for you new people.
@E B I just have to tell you that after watching this video and doing a little research I purchased the fine, medium and thick plus the spray and everything he said in the video is 100% correct.....
You said to wear nitrile gloves. That is not correct. The gloves that you wore look like polyethylene plastic to me. That is a good choice for working with CA glue.
I use CA glue all the time in my shop and 2P10 is used almost on a daily basis. Star Bond (black) is my go-to CA for filling walnut cracks and it blends and fills the crack in an excellent manner. My tip is when I have put Star Bond into a knot crack and sprayed the accelerant over it, once dry I will use a single edge razor blade and basically plane off any excess CA from the crack then sand.
As another tip... you may not want to use blue shop paper towels when wiping up CA. Some brands are okay, while others are not. I use CA as a finish on my pens. I used a blue paper towel to wipe them on... and whatever they put in that towel... acted as an accelerant and I burned myself. I did find a brand that doesn't react to quickly... and works well... but be careful and experiment.
I have found super glue to be strong but fragile, drop your frame on a hard surface and the shock will break all the joints. I always use splines in the corners so I suppose it might be more shock resistant doing that after using super glue. I'll give it a try though, it would save time on the glue up.
For filling oversize screw holes I keep a few varied sizes of dowell, drill the hole to natch the dowell and use that. For small holes try cabob sticks
I know. That drives me crazy. He got them reversed. He did it in one of his other videos about glue. At first I thought that it was the same footage recycled, but I don't think that it is. I worked in a hospital for 13 years. I have worn thousands and thousands of pairs of nitrile gloves.
Has anyone done a comparison of CA glue that is past 12 to 16 months to a new bottle? I us my CA glues primarily as a helper tool and very seldom as a complete bonding agent.
Mine usually doesn't last that long. But I use my for a finish in pen turning. Basically what you end up with is an acrylic finish, that will last a lifetime... and extremely shiny after buffing with Micro-Mesh.
CA glue has its uses, but many of these applications would be served just as well with wood glue, especially that last one. Just takes a bit longer to harden, but it’s a more forgiving method and a lot cheaper. I find CA glued to be completely overpriced.
@WoodWorkWeb those are not "nitrile" gloves, those are PE or plastic food handling gloves. Nitrile will definitely stick to CA glue - ask me how I know...
It not that strong you need to drive dowels or splines. Dowels are better, you can use framers staples on back of frame all picture framers use them, I think Colin was sniffing that glue I would brake that joint no problem, but it will hold the joint enough for you get any of these fixings in place, all the best from Ireland.
I live in Slovakia and I found Starbond CA Glue in a Slovak E-shop. So I guess it's for sale in any EU country. Prices in Slovakia in Euro's are nearly the same as prices in the US in dollars So in fact it's about 20% or so more expensive. Quite reasonable, if you take in account transport + import taxes.
I'm using the thin CA for finishing my paddles - both new one and older ones I refinish. It creates a finish so much harder than a marine varnish! My only problem with it, because it sets so fast, is getting it smooth enough to reduce the sanding as it is very hard to sand. Can I get a slower setting thin version and in 16 oz size or even larger?
I have used the med ca glue trying to glue my picture frame. The wood is red oak. I put a couple drops of glue and I spray the other side with accelerator on the other side It does not bond. What in the heck ami doing wrong. HELP
I have no experience with CA glue, I'm wondering if you are not pushed for time can the glue be left to cure on its own or is it always necessary to use the accelerator😊👍
CA + Accelerant + gloves = melting burning gloves... better to not use them when working with CA. If you get glue on them (not accelerant)... You can desolve it with some acetone... or wait awhile and it will pull it off.
Hey Colin is there a certain store that you can buy CA glue? Such as Lowe's or home depot or something like that. I have looked all over. Love your videos.
Woodworkers call this type of glue CA glue, but manufacturers and retailers don’t use that term. They advertise by specifec brands: Stickfast, Starbond, Titebond, Hot Stuff, etc. And of course, Crazy Glue. Gorilla glues probably have their own version too. This leaves people thinking these are all different kinds of glue, but they are different brands of the same kind of glue.
Great tips there , thanks Colin. I was just wondering about the accelerator. Is it a must? Will ca glue work without it? Does it just make it set quicker? Thanks
Looks like no one ever replied to you. CA glue is "super-glue"; it hardens from air moisture. The accelerator is just that: It makes it harden instantly, as opposed to taking up to a few minutes.
Thanks for the video Colin but for me in the UK CA glue is that stuff you use on something inappropriate and a few days later you can't even get the top off the tube of glue. Over in the US, it seems as if everyone uses it and it's better stuff.
Two suggestions for you: 1. Wipe off the spout of CA glue with acetone to clean it before putting on the cap. 2. If the nozzle get sawdust on it , like when you "smear" it on a joint, and you replace the cap your are in for a stuck cap if not cleaned.
I would not say that your repair to the screw hole is stronger than it was before. The patch you added in was oriented as endgrain, which is not as strong to screw into as face grain. So while it is good enough for a repair, you should not say that it is stronger than the original face grain wood.
I would not expect that wood simply replaced with wood by itself would be stronger (assuming similar types of wood), but I would think that the plug would be stronger because the CA would leach into the pores and also create a bit of a CA "sleeve" around the plug which would resist the wood around the plug from expanding as the screw goes in. No expert, just spitballing...
Then start paying for youtube... It's less than $20 a month and you won't ever have to see another commercial advertisement on here again..... I'm sure it's not his fault that YT plays that many advertisements during his video.....
