You need to use a "licensed cabler" to modify a low voltage cable for your own use?? Holy cow, your government is crazy! Why don't you folks vote for freedom and throw the bums out???
keeps the cowboys out. You had people with absolutely no training and sfa knowledge setting themselves up as data cablers, doing large installations. Altering a data cable for personal use? No-one will care. Modifying LV installations without a licence? They'll throw the book at you. As to your your "handymen" doing LV wiring? Jeez. And, BTW, where has your idea of "freedom" ever got you, in recent times?
Can you please confirm the wire layout? You say Starlink uses a 568B standard where I have seen on other videos that Starlink separates the "Blue" and "blue white". Like this: 1) orange/white 2) orange 3) blue/white 4) green 5) green/white 6) blue 7) brown/white 8) brown
forgive me as I skimmed a fair amount of the video I was primarily just interested in seeing whether they used the proper cable coloring unlike some other 8-wire cables like consoles. I used to teach networking at the college level so I can terminate a B connector in my sleep pretty much. however I was curious what POE standard you need to conform to, to power the dish, in the event that this was being used at a site that actually had network equipment with native POE on ports.
If I can add a tip on this. The "rake" is something I hadn't seen before, and I was a licenced Master Cabler in a previous life. Good idea, because if you just rely on holding them between thumb and forefinger and pushing them in, as is normal practice, they can get out of order. Always needed to check with a data tool. I just did my cable today, with Spaceteks crimper, and , after untwisting, found it much easier to leave the tails 50mm long and push each one through individually. Then pull them down and cut off. Very tidy.
PLEASE NOTICE Can you split the original cable of starlink the 1. White orange, 2. Orange 3. White green 6. Green Insert is to the third party router( not the starlink router) * The power supply will still be its original source ( from the starlink router) but instead of having the internet go directly to the starlink router, it will be go through the third party router. Isa this possible? PLEASE notice
SpaceTek, what is the make or part number of the "rake" shown at 6:30 in the video? That would be very handy. Are certain Cat-5e connectors compatible or do they work with most of them? thanks for the video!
They are part of a complete plug set that SpaceTek have made to specifications. We other 20k at a time. They are available as a 10pack on our website or larger quantities by request.
Its such a crock that only licensed cablers can make a change to a low voltage data cable. I understand if it was running mains. But I've every house I've owned, I've cabled it myself. It's not rocket science.
Followed these directions but had no success in getting Starlink dish to come online. Replaced the shielded pass thru connectors twice, but still no go. The only thing I can think of is that the joiner I bought does not appear to be shielded, so the drain wire seems to be isolated at each connector and not feeding thru. Could that be the issue?
@spacetek Same here. The dish has power as it rotates and positions itself due south but on the app it says not connected to dish and theres no internet. Could it be that one of the 8 wires didnt get crimped properly? Also when i first crimped the rj45 i did one end in the opposite order accidentally, then coupled them to test. How badly this i mess up the dish or is there a protection in place to prevent any damage from this kind of wiring? And to add, my coupler is also not shielded.
It is important not to use normal side cutters, you MUST use flush cuts so that the wires are trimmed FLUSH to the rake and the rake is hard back against the sheath.
I have bought this kit from Spacetek for my StarLink but there are no rake included on the kit that I was delivered. How do you insert the wires without a rake?
Have you had a chance to dig into a Mini cable yet? I have an idea extra cable on the way to see if I can find a way to direct wire it into my 12v fuse box… Hoping it just a standard two-wire!
I have just discovered a problem with using this replacement plug with your Gen 3 bulkhead adaptors, which are made to accept the Gen 3 RJ45 plugs, which do not have the retaining clip. I cut my cable, fitted plug, tested, all good. Then plugged the shortened cable into the bulkhead fitting. And found I cannnot get it out, as the clip is locking it in place, and now seems inaccessible due to the redesigned inlet of the Gen 3 socket. 😮 So, if you are doing this mod, and using a Gen 3 inlet, make sure to cut that clip off. Or use a Gen 2 Bulkhead inlet.
Great video. A couple of questions, though. Does it hurt anything to leave the metallic foil shield, doubled back inside out? Is there any advantage to leaving it on? It would be a lot easier than trying to double it back without tearing it. Also, I suppose the use of the "rakes" makes the use of pass-through connectors unnecessary?
Hello fellow Starlink Community, I bought the Starlink Gen 2 and I will be moving in a new Apartment next month. I have a problem. My landlord does not allow to drill cables through the wall. Now I need a new solution. How am I supposed to connect the starlink cable from outside the house to the router inside? Is there an option to get it through the window? I have European windows (Germany). I know there are antenna window feed through flat cables but is there an option for the starlink setup? I would be happy if there is an option to connect the router without going through the wall. Thank you in advance
Starlink uses a different pairing. You recommend T568B. I suppose there is no problem as long as two like wired cables are interconnected since the incorrect pairing of one cable would be reversed by the other cable but would there be a problem if a Starlink cable was connected to a T568B/T568B cable?
curious - what does the drain wire actually do - not actually required to work - but helps with draining excess electricity ? So pretty much just a standard cat5e cable otherwise ? No problems using cat6 etc and splicing in the proprietary ends even.
