Even if it doesn't rain much in your area, I would still change the roof angle to not lead the water between the house and the shed as this could create moist areas in a place where you don't see it and cause mold or rot there.
That’s a good point and I thought about that. I have the shed a few inches off the wall so any minimal run off wouldn’t even run down the wall anyways but something to consider further if you’re in a different situation
@@workshop_edits It is not just water that will end up running in the back. Every single leaf twig and dead bug will end up down the back and get stuck and eventually hold moisture that will rot out the back of the shed. A lean-to should ALWAYS drain out and away, even in California.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It gave me the confidence to build myself one. I have the tools and most of the materials but couldn’t push myself to do it till I saw this video. Thanks again.
Pinning this comment incase anyone wants a little more insight from me (the builder): Here is an updated SketchUp Design file for purchase that modifies the same layout to be a lean-to shed for anyone interested in replicating: workshopedits.com/design-files/diy-cedar-shed 1. I'm in SoCal - it barely rains here and the shed isn't touching my wall - its on floating stones above dirt - run off (if any) will fall off the edge onto the ground/dirt and not onto my wall but the concern is a warranted one so thank you for calling it out 2. If you're concerned about weather/runoff, just reverse the direction of the roof pitch in your build. I built the shed for my needs this way so the front could be larger, definitely take your own situation into account when building a shed. The SketchUp file will take this into account. 3. People think the OSB is unnecessary / overkill - the reason I used it was security purposes. The Cedar can easily be pulled off, and if that happens and there is no inner-lining, then the shed becomes pointless 4. I've since moved the handle up 6 inches after the fact to remove the locking restriction present with this style of locking mechanism - however, it wasn't actually inhibitive in the first place but definitely something to change if you build 5. I'm a mess with that stain - be better than me :-) That's all! Thanks for watching!
Best explanation of building a small shed that I've found so far. The ideas a few people added including the slope direction are good. Thanks for posting this video.
I’d like to do something like this. Great video. I don’t wonder about the pitch of the roof going toward the houses exterior wall. Why didn’t you angle the roof to direct any rain away from the house?
Good questions. I don't think there is a right solution. For me, I wanted something larger in the front for easier access, and knowing I'm in SoCal with little rain, it didn't bother me. Same reason I didn't overdue it on the roofing. I think separately, since its not actually touching the house and it is on top of my dirt side yard, it all felt like this was an equally okay solution to have any water run off the roof and into the dirt
It’s not touching the house won’t get any more water or weather than the normal side of the house. And it’s in California so weather is minimal. In short. No.
It was fine. There was a little water damage on the backside of it which I’d have expected with it sloping that way. There would have been none had I put cedar siding up on it. But otherwise totally fine.
Hi, nice build, but I don't like the catch on the door. Unless I missed something all the screws could easily be removed leaving easy access to the shed.
This turned out very nice! I’m just sad you stained that gorgeous Cedar some reddish brown color was the that really took away from the build. Too bad because applying some water based polyurethane would’ve been perfect to keep it naturally light, not yellowed and protected. Lol I’m not a fan of stain for many reasons, to me it takes away what makes the wood species beautiful. I really adore this shed though
Hello - Thinking of making this shed to go on my back deck - the roof slop direction will work fine it the location I have in mind - However I have seen some comments on OSB should be weather proof - what should be used there? Also you didn't put how much OSB you used on your Materials List - perhaps you should update that... Looking forward to hearing for you thanks for the video and sketchup!
I would just get pressure treated OSB if it will be exposed or paint it with an exterior paint to protect it. I have cedar over it so I'm not worried about it, especially in my geographic location (socal). I don't remember the amount of OSB but it was probably 4-5 sheets. You can work backwards from the size you build to determine your list. Good luck.
Nice build but what made you choose cedar over osb vs siding?is it better ? I’m new to this never seen this before that’s all. Also could you give us an update on how the cedar and osb has held up
I just saw your video and this is exactly what I want to build. But one question I have as I am new to this, putting the cedar over the OSB board....will moisture get caught in there and create mold over time? Thanks. Great video! 👍
I’m in SoCal so we have low humidity and hardly any rain so it wasn’t a concern for me. However, if you have a decent eve overhand and add flashing and even a gutter system and overlap the cedar planks by half and inch you shouldn’t have any water issues. Hope that helps / makes sense!
@@vinaysingh2 for the framing? It was just standard 8' 2x4s - its always helpful to design a project like this with an optimal height and width so that if you are creating lots of off cuts, they can all be reused for the lateral framing support
Account for two more feet long on each of the long sides. You’ll have to look at my designs and figure it out - if you make your studs 16” apart you probably need the same amount - maybe 2 x more 2x4s. Use the SketchUp file I provided to make your own version
14:12 I like it. It looks nice, it’s the finish I want but I want it at least 6’ wide, 6’ deep and 6’-6” tall. Peeps all the sixxxxes don’t get excited I’m not the devil.
If you’d just reversed the pitch front to back you wouldn’t have any issues with water, leaves etc getting back there, otherwise nice project for So Cal.
For sure. Even with the insane amount of rain we got this year the water issues were negligible so for now I’m keeping it as is (it’s been four years anyways and it’s all good). Cheers
Sketchup 3D. The free version. There’s a link in the description of the design file. If you make an account you can upload it and use it as a starting point. Took me maybe 2 hours of practice and RU-vid to learn the software and it’s been a awesome for every project. Good luck!
Please for the love of God tell me you went back and cleaned up the chiseled recess? Im going to be thinking about this while i lay in bed trying to fall asleep 😞 Overall, great work!
@@workshop_edits I mean that the position of the lock is problematic because when you open the lock its look like the lock touch the handle and scratch the handle
No offense guy but you have the water that will be "shed" from the roof running back to the stucco of the house.....it will not take very long (a year) until you start seeing damage.....maybe even sooner. You should have had the slope in the opposite direction.....
No offense taken. This won't happen in my situation, location, etc., but helpful for others to see who might be in different climates or have their sheds bumped up against their wall (mine is not)
It's 3 inches off the house on top of an elevated base above dirt; the house is a raised foundation too. I'm also in southern California where it never rains - I agree / get it - and i'd reverse it next time, but it was never a concern to me and its been years and its totally fine.
Check the date - this video came out four years before that guy’s video. His shed is 8 square feet. This shed is just under 20. So 250% bigger. So comparatively that puts his shed at a $400 cost. Use less 2x4s - I’m sure there is a very easy way. 2x4s we’re $2.05 when I built this so a few extra was the cheapest part of the project. Or use 2x3s! Or don’t do a cedar siding! A dozen ways to make this more affordable with the same function. Or don’t build anything because you don’t strike me as someone who could handle it anyways.
"Or don’t build anything because you don’t strike me as someone who could handle it anyways." Oh wow. It was an honest question you don't have to be nasty and tell me I am " someone who can't handle it anyways". I was trying to learn and I am not anywhere near your skill so I don't know why you would be so condescending.
the lock s*cks and the lighting is very poor and cheap im sure you could find for a better solution to solve those things instead of running into home depo
@@workshop_edits In your video it looks like the handle for the door is blockin it! And I think wiring a cable to the shed isnt that hard to get consistent energy and I really hate those platic things but I guess that my personal problem. Plus if you had a regular electricity outlet in the shed you could charge your gadgets or something I dont know. I just dont like battery powered stuff
Ah - yea it is slightly - but that doesn't mean it sucks - maybe just requires shifting things slightly...maybe choose your words a little more carefully? Also, again, on a budget, no one is going to just "wire up a shed" - that is expensive, requires extensive knowledge to do so properly - so using something super cheap and optional and battery powered is a very good solution for something so trivial. I'd love to wire it eventually, but that wasn't the goal of this project.
@@workshop_edits Ok I see i might forgot the fact that its a super low budget build but you could have easily used a sliding mechanism or something to fit the handle and that made me angry because it makes the video so unsatisfying and I dont remember you makening silly mistakes like that in earlier projects
Looks nice man, and I’m only bringing it up because you mentioned security several times in the video, but you put the hinges on the outside with the screws out. If someone has a drill they could be in that shed in about 30 seconds. I screwdriver would take slightly longer but could be done silently. Just a thought. Looking forward to more videos.
Thanks! Yea it's a good point. In reality, I should replace it with lag screws so it can't be undone from the outside. Might be a quick quarantine project for me!
Nice build the roof angle would change plus I feel you spent alot for such a small shed you must had a lot of wasted materials next time look for reclaimed materials and the lighting look for a solar light to put inside harbor freight has some over all nice job
Thanks! I don't think I had much waste on this actually. I design projects so I can minimize waste whenever possible, or find another use for offcuts, etc (always happening in the shop!). Under $500 seems not bad for a 3'x6' shed when comparable ones from big box stores are $1300+ assembly/delivery no?
Yea - what it really needs is a few lag bolts which I plan to add. My current hope is that because the screws are star patterned, it's not as easily removable. Thanks for watching!
@@workshop_edits Looks like it's pretty safe where you are, so you probably don't need to worry. You don't even have a wall around your house. Here in Joburg, they'll just take the whole shed if it's not bolted down.
Nice build, but you made the same mistake that I made when building my first shed at my old house. You used hinges where the screws are accessible from the outside, anyone with a screw driver can just take the door off. Still like the build though, super inexpensive!
Couple issues 1-should have a water barrier (house wrap) or tar paper your osb is going to rot 2- your pickets WILL shrink if coming straight out of HD should have spray painted house wrap black or just used tar paper 3- if you have room should install gutter on back so water isnt being forced into side of your house 4-should have used treated wood that is touching the stones and sidewalk
Thanks for the tips. Few responses: It is pressure treated wood touching them stones. The water can’t get behind the shed as the roof covers it by about a foot. The pockets have shrunk but not much - I let them dry out for a few days before installing which I should have mentioned in the video. The house wrap stuff - yea maybe but I’m in SoCal where it barely rains and it’s dry most the time and water can’t really get into the OSB. It would be a days work to replace it way down the road but your tip is well received.
I watch this every once in a while just to amazed that we've gone from men who just build a shed to men needing sketch up computer shit. Also, men used to wear pants and work boots for safety, now screw all that better wear earmuffs like a bellend though that drill is sper scary load....not for your wife though 😆 don't get me wrong it turns out great I like it especially that you covered the osb you have no idea how man sheds I've seen without even tyvek paper.
Well boomer, those men also probably wasted a ton on extra materials with no design in mind and are deaf from not taking the easiest of safety precautions but sure, I’ll wear pants next time.
With this shed build that is against a wall of your house, why did you put a wall that is next to your house, you could have just anchored a 2x4 or 4x4 to your house and attach the side walls to that?
Does anyone know if it’s better to screw in framing or to nail it? I heard nails are more flexible so ideal so nothing snaps as it settles, or does it really matter ?
Ben, I agree the amount of material here is twice what's needed. My biggest problem is the direction of the roof now when it rains it will bring the water to the back of the shed where it only has the OSB and the house. Shedding water away from your house is a much better practice. Using non PT treated stud on the base is also concerning but not as bad since they don't look to be in contact with the ground, only the concrete of the sidewalk.
@@Belg1970 Hey there - the roof overhangs the OSB and isn't touching the back wall, so runoff will just go into the dirt below - I was actually strategic about that as I agree. Not sure why it becomes twice the material though (to your first point)? If you only had cedar, you could rip off one plank and have immediate access to the interior of the shed haha
@@workshop_edits If you were worried about security why not glue the cedar onto the framing. Most sheds are also build with framing on 24" centers, all those cripple studs you added were overkill. Going toward a budget build using more material goes against that theory. There is a principal called water tension as the water rolls off a low slopped roof like this it will follow the around to the OSB. Good reading to explain my point. obec.on.ca/sites/default/uploads/files/members/CCBST-Oct-2014/A2-2-a.pdf My last point and statement is that if you're going to post something on RU-vid for the non experienced DIY's out there you have to show them the most practical and responsible method for ANYWHERE USA OR ELSEWHERE. Its just the nature of the beast people see it and don't associate it with your climate or need. And please don't get me wrong I'm a visual learner myself and have been paying attention on our construction sites for over 30 yrs and am just passing on what I've learned.
Here are my thoughts - feel free to disagree of course! 1. I didn't glue the cedar as it would make it very hard to replace down the road; I used OSB for strength and security and because its $8 a sheet 2. 12" v. 24" - sure - but if I'm reading your next note, then the ANYWHERE OR ELSEWHERE would say over engineer for harsh and violently windy conditions, so adding more structural support is necessary 3. Posting for ANYWHERE OR ELSEWHERE - I don't have to do that if I specifically call out where I built this and why I built it, which I do, while also very bluntly encouraging people to do their own research on their climate, geography, etc. Additionally, to your first point, going towards a budget build but then having to over-engineer to fit everyone's need contradict each other, which is why I ultimately worry about my needs, call out explicitly that they are my needs and specific to me. 4. OSB runoff - totally hear you on that; I'm just not worried about it in my climate. If people have concern on it, they can add more cedar to the back, but it's just not my concern which I call out in the roofing section. Cheers - and thanks for you input (saying that genuinely!)
All the OSB needs to be sealed or water will destroy it in a couple years. OSB is not water resistant. This is going to allow debris to accumulate between the shed and the house which will hold moisture and attract termites. The roof should slope away from the house, not towards the house. Good effort, but lots of failure waiting to happen.
I’m in California. Moisture is non existent which is why I built it the way I did. Also it’s not touching the house. Also it’s on top of dirt. Also the OSB is covered by a roof and the roof of my house. Will be very tough for moisture to get to it
