Here's a suggestion on "HOW TO SET-UP A STEADY REST ON THE LATHE". Please LIKE-SUBSCRIBE-RING THE BELL & COMMENT. I have 1200 other shop videos on youtube #howtorunalathe#machineshop#howtorunabridgeport#whatisit#mrpete
Mr. Pete, I just got a heads up about this video. I wanted to stop by and thank you for the shout out. Have a very merry Christmas and best of luck to you for a healthy and prosperous New Year. Stay well sir.
Merry Christmas Joe. I have been enjoying your steam engine Bill. You are a very good communicator and teacher. Lots of details when they are necessary.
It is cool to be able to eaves drop on two great teachers interacting. Thank you both for all you do for us that are trying to learn. Merry Christmas to all.
I think sanding over the steady is poor practice as that grit is going right into that soft brass and embedding itself where it will be wanting to just keep wearing. the brass and whatever is running against it. Maybe I am over thinking it but don't think I would do it.
Really appreciate the rundown on the steady rest setup, especially getting it centered to prevent it walking out with the indicator tool you made. Thanks Tubalcain!
This is getting to be a habit... I get up and the first thing I do is log in to see if Mr. Pete has a new Video... haven’t done this since Howdy Doody and Buffalo Bob!
I run computer controlled machines and watch these because I want to know what my father used to do, to reconnect with what I used to do, what I loved about my job. I hate being a co-owner and sitting in an office most of the time so this takes me back to when we made things by hand to last forever. I hate the plastic crap people buy made in China and wish that people could go back to the days when we earned our wages, we made things others would want, and honestly I want to retire so that i can have an old fashioned machine shop at home to replace the very computers that I design. Thank you Mr. Pete for your willingness to teach the world what we have forgotten.
All I can say is thank you I don’t think I’ve told you enough You are the teacher of teachers sir And I will continue watching and liking your videos long after your gone sadly that is all any of us could ever hope for so thank so much
What did I miss? The whole point of a steady rest is that you cannot count on the chuck to hold a long piece perfectly on the center line without support. If, say, your indicator bar was only 0.5° off axis, the point would describe a circle 0.050 larger (or smaller) than your planned 2.000". Your steady rest would be on-center, but it wouldn't touch the work piece (or it would be 0.050" too tight to run). I suppose you could indicate the end of the indicator bar (if it had a true end), and tap it in so it sits on the center line, but without that I don't see how this method could work.
Good morning! I agree with your theory on this method, but I believe you are making some assumptions. What if your set bar is not perfectly straight, or your 3 jaw chuck is not running true. These 2 things would necessitate a different "setting" of your pin height. I can see where one could have excess clearance on the steady rest pads if you set them to an eccentric pointer pin. I always use a 4 jaw chuck, indicate the part true at the jaws, set the steady rest in place, and adjust the rest pads until the workpiece indicates true at the end. Now, if the workpiece is bowed or bent, there is another problem. By standard procedure, the area where the pads of the steady rest will contact, should be turned true to the chuck. This would then be a safe, correct, and accurate setup. Thanks for all you do, and taking the time to spread your vast knowledge and experience to the rest of the world.
Hi Mr. Pete, great videos. I can understand why the work would tend to walk out of the chuck if it appears to run "true" but out of line with the center line of the lathe. I worked at Boeing Vertol many years ago and the procedure we used was to simply indicate the bar or tube concentric at the chuck, slide steady rest with retracted rollers or brass bars, indicate true at the right end (by soft hammer tapping), and simply slowly touch the piece by moving the 3 steady jaws until they touch slightly, then oil. If not done carefully, t's possible that it might move the piece 1 thousand out of line, but we never had the bar creep out of the chuck. Also, if not careful, you may obviously get some taper, but highly unlikely since it would take turning the whole length of the piece to notice it, and that would not be possible with a steady rest on it. If there's a true bore or center drilled hole, then you don't need to true the hanging end, by using a live or dead center, or bull center. If the OD was out of round or rough, and it was going to be turned at a later operation, we would take a light cut where the steady jaws would be touching, as long as the piece was supported by a center. I would be interested to know if you and other viewers see a problem with doing it that way, to make sure I don't have any misconceptions. Thanks again, I believe we all learn something new from your videos regardless of experience.
Just wondering-why not set the steady rest up next to the chuck, with a piece of dialed in steel of the same OD as the work, then move the steady rest down to it's final location? I understand the principal of your set up feeler but just wonder if it is really needed to face off a piece of stock. Thanks!
good advice but i always just set my steady rest up next to the chuck adjust it in and when im done i move the steady rest to the other end and lock it down. presto your done
I understand the the idea. It makes sense to set the diameter on the steady rest . But with stick out like that there will be sag . When I indicate the work I always indicate the far end sticking out. ? Do you indicate both ends of the feeler . Can you just indicate the work in the rest I'm not really seeing if there is a benefit. To one or the other . Watch the video 2 time trying to understand why
I think an easier way to do it would be to put a say 6 inch long sacrificial part in the chuck, turn it to the diameter of the long part you want to put in the steady rest and adjust the steady rest with it being close to the chuck adjust it to the diameter you just turned to match your shaft and then move the steady rest down the bed to use the longer part.
@@stevebosun7410 maybe put it in the side rather than the end? as long as it was small enough to turn within the gap required? .Could make it a grub screw in the side even.
This is a great method, but the underlying assumption is that the feeler jig is running true when it's in the chuck. If it's cocked, it will sweep a circle that is larger than the indicated measurement (in this case 1.000") and the rollers will be sloppy on your 2.000" diameter stock. If the stock diameter is greater than that of the circle swept by the feeler, the rollers will be tight on the stock. At the end of his video, Joe Pie gives instructions for indicating the part and adjusting the rollers.
Mr. Pete, thanks for illustrating another way of adjusting steady rest. The method I've always used is a little different, and possibly simpler. Chuck a length of stock the same diameter as the shaft you wish to support. Extend six inches beyond the chuck. Indicate this stock to minimum runout. Adjust steady rest to this part as close to the chuck as possible. Lock jaws and move steady rest out to the position you wish to support. The shaft will then be supported true to the chuck's C/L and will not creep.
Hi Lyle, interesting setup, and more importantly well communicated that you learnt this from Joe, just proving that you continue to learn every single day in this game no matter how many times you have been round the block! Well done. Cheers, Jon
Mrpete I need to say that.I´m here with the rest of the human race waiting for your video to come and put a cherry into my day.And gess what happen today?I got in the mail a test bar for the lathe centers aligment like the one you show that came from India in a wonderful wooden boss.Beautiful.Hard to believe but things happen.Thank you.
would it make sense to make your setup tool with a center at the end and use the tail stock to assist in aligning it. you could put a set screw in the side of the bar to hold the pin in place or use a bolt at the end with a center drilled in the bolt head.
Thanks, Mr. Pete! Always a good time in the shop with you. Wish I had steady and follower rests for my 9" SBL. Been putting aside bits of steel to fabricate them, but haven't reached critical mass yet.
You didn't specify that you must indicate the end of the tool at the steady-rest location to insure that it is running true, indicating at only the jaw end could mean that the far end still has runout
MrPete why does this type of stead rest adjustments have 2 threads working in there? I've seen the exploded view. The threads are coarse not fine ....... and there is one right handed thread on the ID of the knurled body and the inside of the bronze takes a left handed thread to push it out. What's the point? To push the brass bars out faster? less turns to get in position? Seems like a lot of engineering for not much payoff - but I'm sure I'm missing the point :D ( come to think of it, a tap wrench uses this kind of doubled thread doesn't it? Why ?
Mr. Pete, I clicked on this video by browsing youtube. I would like to thank you for what you are doing and taking the time to explain everything. You are a true teacher and reminded me of the great teachers who tought me everything that I know. God bless you sir, I wish you and your family a Merry Christmas and happy holidays.
Great video, but i just saw this other video i think it's from Russia, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cDfMI5ahbJI.html You will probably just want to mute it since he only talks in Russian. Very interesting bolt! One bolt, two nuts that are threaded in opposite directions, that match the bolt. have a great day, Merry Christmas to all who read this !
Thank you. Any suggestions on seam welded pipe with this set up would be welcomed. I can’t turn the O.d, and have .005 to work with on the I.d, 20” in length, no witness marks.....
I think this could be a good idea .but you failed to mention you must indicate the end of the shaft since it’s sticking out so far from the end of the chuck . most likely it will be running out. The method that I use is I actually set it between centers with my tail stock and then adjust the actual jars of the steady rest against the work . But I do enjoy your videos keep up the good work!
Hey Mr. Pete, I just got a steady rest for my 9A, something I’ve been wanting for a long time. Much to my delight when I got to the sellers house he also had a milling attachment also for sale. I would have had buyers remorse if hadn’t bought it as well. These items are getting hard to come by up here in Canada. I watch your videos all the time and find them quite informative. Maybe in the future you could do a tutorial on the milling attachment. Thanks very much.
If your steady rest positions repeatably on the lathe bed there is an easier way. With the work piece in the chuck, position the rest right next to the chuck and align the rest supports. Open and slide the rest down to the working position and lock it down. Done! Aligning the supports to the work next to the chuck should be the right size and the right spot. If the rest does not slide precisely on the bed you might align it with some sort of spacer block or caliper measurements. Most of my lathes have factory rests that slide precisely aligned on the bed. But one has a rest that I built designed carefully to align on the bed for this purpose. While Joe's method offers a concentric and round alignment if your work is a little rough or out of round concentricity and precision are a waste of time. This method offers precise alignment quickly and also allows trial spins by hand near the chuck to test the function before you move it into position. Beware the clocking in the end of a part with a dial indicator for concentricity doesn't work. Scanning along the length and the height of the part with an indicator can tell you if it is truly straight. This activity is often overlooked but critical in some cases. Crummy stuff like muffler tubing can be turned successfully without binding with just a little clearance. You may want to loosen the chuck a little when you reposition rest and tighten after the work is held by the rest. The rest may force the workpiece into a more favorable alignment and a re-chuck operation might be worthwhile. You can use the rest for operations other than turning or facing. I have held long things for sanding and polishing also forms and bobbins to wind wire on. Also things that get painted, welded, plasma cut or just measured. Like a lot of tools in the shop you won't use it every day but when you need it nothing else will do. Trying to get along without one can lead to an unsafe setup and disastrous results. Be careful. JY
Great video! Three things I love in machining, steady rests, line boring, and boring. Yes it takes time for "setup" but as you've demonstrated that's where the talent comes in. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Completely wrong. First of all never run a steady on an unmachined circumference its never a true round. Instead let ir roll on the two lower legs only and fix a lever type dial indicator on the end and roll it with stylus on tailstock outer barrel and adjust two legs until it lines up with tailstock. Now at this stage remove dial and skim short section of chuck end for steady till it cleans up. Now take out and reverse it . Readjust the steady end now with dial indicator and that's it. Otherwise if you just need a rough setting to get you started, chuck piece well in , bring steady right up to chuck and tighten down to bed and on a very slow run, align shaft by eye and then adjust legs to suit though again this is just a quick and rough way before final adjustments.
I know it must be incredibly difficult coming up with new topics for videos, but I love these tutorial videos of yours. I hope you can come up with some more ideas like these.
That seems unnecessarily complicated. I just slide the steady rest up close to the chuck and set the three steady supports against the work where I've set it to run true. Then I just slide the steady rest out to the end of the work, and it's guaranteed to be correct.
Great trick Mr Pete! A handy tool for frequently doing steady rest work is a live center with a four jaw chuck mounted on it. Dial in the o.d. and then make contact with the steady rest bearings. You can even take a cut to true up the o.d. if your stock isn't round. there's lots of ways to "skin a cat". 👍🇺🇸
I would've liked to see a clock run on the "feeler" end with that much overhang. Maybe a shorter length then simply move the steady to the length of bed needed from the Chuck.
I recently built my own steady rest for my southbend, since they are quite pricey. It was pretty simple and maybe a good video idea for you and would help a lot of folks who dont have one. Glad to share if it helps
Hey Bro! Did you know that South Bend Lathe company was acquired by the guy who owns Grizzly Industrial?! Grizzly has showrooms in MO & WA. Be sure to bring a fat wallet, and read the bible verse about avoiding temptation before entering!!
I watched the video AFTER I used the steady rest for the first time. Fortunately, the piece did not walk. Note to self: Check for a Mr. Pete video before doing something new.
I'm not a machinist, I just watch a lot of youtube video's about it. If you'd had a big enough live center for the tailstock, would you have been able to use that to make the pipe run true before sneaking up to it with the steady rest? Also, could it damage anything in the lathe or chuck if the work was wiggling around in it like a rotary broach?
That's the usual procedure, it's not always possible though as in this case you would need a pipe center and a way to make the center hole first as well
@@noneofabove5586 You don't use the steady on raw stock even during cleanup of the end. Gotta figure out something else. That's even more critical with the bearing type steady.
Hello Mr. Peterson, Two THANK YOU's for you today. 1) for watching Joe Pie's channel and learning this method. 2) for taking the time to share with use. Take care Paul,,
You can and should as the rod will become very inaccurate over longer distance if there is any runout and the shaft will also flex. If the steady is used close to the chuck, then this isn't even needed as you can spin the work and bring the pads to light contact while spinning and they're perfectly adjusted
You could if you had a 6” long piece of 2”” tube. He’s using a longer 2” tube and the spindle hole in a SB Heavy 10 is only 1 3/8”. You could hold it straight if you had a live center in the tailstock with a monster size nose and you knew that the free end ID was true.
G’day Mr Pete. Thanks for sharing I learnt something today that would have been useful some time back, now I know how to fix it should I machine long stock and as I have a mini lathe it won’t be long. Cheers Peter
I haven't seen pipe like that since I was he senior engineer at the Asheville generating plant. I made an engine stand using similar pipe for the engine axis of rotation..350 Chevy block and no flex. Have a merry Christmas
Thanks for this input. It takes quite some time and calls for extraordinary tools. What about using a last word indicator, sweep along the upper part of the stock, using the carriage and adjust the tail stock. Then make the indicator sweep the edge 90 degrees towards 'You, along the part of the stock towards the operator, and adjust the tail stock.
At 59 comments the discussion had been good. There are lots of good suggestions, concerns and solutions. I have virtually no experience with a steady rest. They seem simple and intuitive. I like the varied suggestions. I am always wanting to employ best practices. This can include expedient practices as well. Thank you Lyle for prompting the discussion.
Perfect timing. I in fact had a problem just a few days ago with my work creeping out of the chuck while using a steady rest. I will have to give this a try and check my set up before I run any more of the pieces. Thanks
For the first time ever watching "our" Mr Pete, I have a problem with his setup. Please, NO disrespect atoll. But... I believe it is more accurate, if you move the steady rest very close to the chuck and set it up there, rather than far from the chuck. Then move the steady rest at the other end and it would be the same accuracy any where along the ways. Another way: Use the tail stock and a centered hole in the stock, drilled very close to the chuck. Then you can do the set up at the end of the stock where the tail stock is; holding the stock true. Of course I could be wrong. But that is simply my opinion.
Thank you for this video, Mr Pete. A question that came to my mind: at 7:23 you oil, at 7:44 you polish with some (fine grid) sandpaper, at 7:53 you oil again and lock the steady rest and oil again. Did you clean up the residue of oil, ground up rust, and sandpaper off camera or is there a reason why this would not be necessary? Best wishes and Merry Christmas!
Lyle, This is the most helpful tip that I have seen in quite a while. I am still learning how to do large work on little machines. I intend to employ this idea. With one end faced, the other end needs to faced and finished to length. Do you have a brilliant suggestion to do this on this part? Would you re-chuck against the chuck face and dimension from the chuck face? How accurate can you hope to be in a double set up and no Z axis DRO?
Thank you Mr Pete, I am learning how to use my 2002 10" X 36" Harbor Freight gear head and was wondering how on earth to use the thing with brass bearings.
There are several variations with this method. The setting bar may be made much shorter and slide the steady rest up to the head stock to set it. Then the steady rest can be moved to the desired position. The setting bar may also be installed in the tail stock and held in a drill chuck. If working space is a problem the setting bar can be made with a Morse taper shank. If you want to be fancy the setting bar can be made so that it is a slip fit over a boss on the taper shank (or alternatively fit the setting bar completely over the quill) and it can be rotated to each steady rest position without loosening the Morse taper in the tail stock for each position. An inverted use of setting bar can also be used to measure the diameter of a machined segment as might be required for a part that is to be a saddle fit onto another shaft. Make a cut on the segment and bring the setting tool mounted in the tail stock up to the segment. Extend the pin until it touches the machined surface. Now measure over the pin and carrier shaft with a micrometer. Doing the inverse of the math that Lyle showed in his illustration you can easily calculate the radius and diameter of the machined surface. If you should need to measure the outside diameter or radius of a machined segment the same tactic applies but all you need is a dial indicator. Bring the dial indicator up to the machined surface of the segment and set it and the cross slide dial to "zero". Move the carriage over and run the tail stock quill out. Bring the dial indicator up to the tail stock quill until it reads "zero" again. Note how far you moved the cross slide. Now knowing the diameter of the tail stock quill and how far you moved the cross slide you can easily calculate the diameter of the work. Cheers from NC/USA
Please explain why not use roller bearings instead of brass that wears down. Is this a hold over from the beginnings of steady rest, or is there some logical reasoning?
Very informative for this old woodworker that has never stood in front of a metal lathe. I have a wood lathe but that is no comparison to your equipment. But I like the method you used for this set-up.
All those cool toys ,, must be cool being you . You are the cool neighbor that had all the toys no one else had . Merry Christmas , God bless you and yours . Jesus , the reason for the season .
Great presentation. I saw Joe's video first and could follow, but I would have to view a few extra times to understand the blocks, etc. Then I found yours, which I was able to follow easier. I think the 4 I watch most are you, Joe, Tony, and Enots Engineering. THANKS !!