Setting Up a Steady Rest

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If your lathe work involves long workpieces, you're likely going to need a steady rest. Here's how to set it up correctly.
Steady rests are a must when it comes to turning applications. These important workholding devices are typically used to hold in place and avoid deflection of long workpieces (3xD and above sticking outside of the chuck).
In this video tutorial, Matt Schmelzer, CNC instructor at Northeast Wisconsin Technical College, goes through the process of setting up a steady rest on a lathe engine and making sure it's aligned to the chuck.
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This video is part of our new video series: ” LEARNING FROM THE PROS”!
We are collaborating with educators from the most advanced technical schools around the country to provide you with tips and tricks, educational videos, and machining technology insights that will help you become a better machinist and learn something new about our beloved metalworking trade.
This demonstration is part of the Northeast Wisconsin Technical College's program.
To learn more about the manufacturing programs at Northeast Wisconsin Technical College visit www.nwtc.edu/academics/progra...
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Опубликовано:

30 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 26

@martindennehy3030 10 месяцев назад

Agree with the first part but when you get steady and shaft into place we were taught to align the end of shaft with tailstock barrel outer diameter using smaller ball jointed magnetic base lever type indicator fixed on end of shaft, rotate shaft by hand with stylus on outer barrel diameter. Far far more accurate and relevant and bear in mind centre line and tailstock always have to align.

@David-hm9ic 5 месяцев назад

Lots of good info in both the video and the comments. One important detail for a technical school: You’re saying “tension” when you’re pushing and creating pressure. Tension is the pulling action as with a chain or rope.

@joewhitney4097 Год назад

Great video, very educational for me. Thanks for sharing.

@caintuckeeironandwood7727 2 года назад

Great video. I’ve never given thought to making a setting tool!!!

@rodneykiemele4721 3 года назад

Love your videos, they are always good

@melgross 11 месяцев назад

Very good. I never thought to make one of those tools, but now I’ll make a few diameters.

@sandwon 3 года назад

Nice set-up tool 👍 Great explaination on the Process.

@shergo3670 3 года назад

just perfct done!

@bobjimenez4464 2 года назад

Great introduction to the steady rest. : )

@bjen2005 3 года назад

Excellent video. Looking at purchasing a PM1030V lathe and trying to do a little side hustle and information like this is valuable since I am not a machinists. Much appreciated.

@gonzalovandamme5846 2 года назад

Really useful! Thanks

@pt.mediasaintifiklabortekn5507 Год назад

great video... thank you very much for sharing !

@ypaulbrown 2 года назад

your videos are wonderful. wish I lived near by to come and take classes.......best wishes from Orlando, Florida, Paul

@RedDogForge Год назад

thank you. very helpful!

@danieltoosi5415 6 месяцев назад

Great Job

@firstielasty1162 8 месяцев назад

Alignment of the rest was not done in the "x" direction...the center could have been offset in either direction parallel to the cross slide. Although, yes, pretty close due to the setup with the short piece. I put a mag base and test indicator on the chuck, contacting the work out near the rest. Rotate chuck so the indicator contact point is near me, zero it, rotate chuck 180 deg to back side, read with a mirror, it should read zero. If not, make adjustments. I take the reading when the contact point is at top with a grain of salt, as the indicator arm will flex down just a bit in this position due to gravity, which is almost irrelevant in the front & back positions. If in doubt about the effect in the vertical position, touch it lightly...even a gram or two will deflect even a rigid base, and the indicator weighs a few grams. So, the surface gauge/indicator is good for the vertical deflection. ("Y") Remember that, no matter the misalignment of the steady rest, it will not cause "runout", except when viewed from the point of view of the chuck. Not relative to the lathe bed, or you.

@jdmccorful 3 года назад

Nice lesson. Thanks for the look.

@compassprecision 3 года назад

Great explanation. Very informative video!

@DieselCrawler86 3 года назад

Good video but I never understand why no one covers how to actually dial a long part into the steady while its in the machine. this method is good but very rarely can you do it. especially in repair work on the lather. also this method is pretty much worthless in the brass pad type steady rests, as its hard to pickup the "feel" on a solid pad. You should also mention that you always put shop rool between the work and the brass pads to "insulate it from chewing on the part.

@melgross 11 месяцев назад

On solid pads, which, if I can, I modify with bearings, I use a half thousandths thickness piece of shim between the pad and the work. Rolling the work moves the shim back and forth. Taking that out and just touching the adjustment screw is all I need at that point.

@martindennehy3030 10 месяцев назад

If you do a rough estimate of where the end of the shift should sit on the two lower rollers, measure end diameter off tailstock outer barrel radius up against the tailstock end. This will get it to within 1mm of center. Now at this stage, sit a smaller lever type dial indicator and base onto the end of your shift and rotate the shift by hand with the stylus end on tailstock barrel outer diameter and adjust steady legs till both run true. Now lock two lower legs in place and bring down upper screw of steady to touch and tighten in place.

@jeeprenegade1985 2 года назад

I put the cutting tool against the end of workpiece. If it is cutting without me moving the tool, the shaft is coming out of the chuck.

@millomweb 2 года назад

I note nobody bothers to lubricate the equipment.

@jamberGARDENS Год назад

what is the procedure for aligning the machining end of stock, if it is NOT indicating the same as back by the head stock?

@bobcasas1 10 месяцев назад

If the bar is not bent, I just gently tap it with a soft hammer until true. Make sure the indicator is retracted, you don't want to damage it while you hammer it. Once true in both ends, the middle should be true also. If not, the bar is bent. Also, after the right end (hanging end) is true, go back and make sure the chuck end is still true. You may have to repeat the procedure a couple of times until both ends are running true.

@ellieprice363 5 месяцев назад

If enough of this type of work is expected it would be worthwhile to make a large bell center ( inverted cone) for the tail stock out of mild steel. Assuming the face of the bar is relatively square with the OD with no burrs this tool will get you close enough for most machining. The center cone must be concentric to the tailstock center line.