I rip out a old steel door and replace with a new steel door with push bar, all my videos are my ways and ideas, I always suggest anyone doing any kind of work to consult professional help. www.amazon.com...
Wanted offer some words of encouragement but “don’t want to make no big deal out if it”! Thanks for making the videos Mike I really like watching them and I’ve seen most. Great info plus your delivery is great!
I just started watching your videos a couple weeks ago. I’m a union glazier in NYC. Great tutorials for those of us that think of mason work as magic. I like how you give the recipe for different scenarios. Watching this door install video, I like how you show the need to shim as you go. I had a side job, seven steel doors came out, from a block building and I installed seven Aluminum and glass doors. Well I made sure to tape 3/16” shims with gorilla tape to the strike side near the lock, and taped a note on each door. “Do not remove shim until after mason is done” They didn’t hire a mason, they hired a handyman to finish the stucco surround. Fast forward two weeks..... I get a call from the customer....”the doors I ordered must be too big, because they won’t close”
I used to own a block building / commercial strip mall with many door issues like this one described. I wish I knew then what I know now after watching your video. My life would have been a whole lot simpler. I wish there were guys like you throughout the US who actually could do what you did in 6 hours.
I installed 5 steel doors for a LL in NYC that I work for.It was a big deal for me, being a Journeyman carpenter, who usually works with all wood. Great Job M.H.---the Pennsylvania mason.
The rats all got away, now they're down in my neighborhood...boy that old hammer sure got a workout in this video. I think a lot of guys would have used a power tool, but I'm with you, I like old school. Good tip about using the shim in the door as you fill in around it with cement and block.
Great job Mike. Having worked on a lot of old buildings I would cut a slot into the mortar above the lower course and cement in a metal bar as a secondary lintel before removing the old door. I'm sure you checked the structural integrity of the blocks and had confidence that collapse was not going to happen....really enjoyed watching this.
keep the rats in was funny! thing of beauty. lots of those metal doors go in racked and never do close right. very nice. i always like the way you dive right in , no big deal and you are never intimidated by a job because you have seen it all. nice to have a ton of experience in your back pocket when you show up to a site. have a great week!
really glad i watched these, went to quote a guy about ripping one of these out and reinstalling. after watching I realized no way I am dealing with that in other peoples property. can you come up to Jersey and replace two hahah
Really enjoyed the video. I guess one always wonders how a block would come apart but who dares to find out? I've always used a saw first to cut the joints then started demolition but ol' Mike doesn't seem to use saws. So I just got to see the real deal. Very cool.
Great job, only one correction top is level sides are plumb, sorry it’s the 38 years of carpentry in me, I’m still a metal door virgin but now I have the knowledge, thanks..
8:37 poor guy bleeding out of his hand. Hard working people like this guy work until 80 years old with backpain and all, so in the end, the US gov takes their 30% taxes to sustain undeserving younger people with money that don't want to work and complain life isn't fair to them. Much respect for him. This is what hard working and shrinking middle class looks like and the whole country runs on the shoulders of people like him. When these people are in short supply, we're all in big trouble. Economy will collapse even worse than today.
Haha, I used to do that when I accidentally "scratched" the London buses I was driving! Got some wet dirt and rubbed it into the newly exposed fiberglass. When I got back to the depot no one noticed a thing.... :)
Hi Mike, I love your video's. I will be installing a metal door in my building. It is a brick building. Do I need to break the bricks out to install brackets? Any ideas? I think the last door was placed by heavy duty Silicone..Thanks for your energy..
great job as always mike,,,,could you also have used concrete screws and screwed through the frame into the concrete,,i need you to move in next door to me.,,,thx for all the videos
I'm in the Carpenters Union in Pittsburgh. I had a local machinist make me a small die for putting dimples in hollow metal frames. Works like a charm. Keep up the great work and videos
2- questions - great video - down dirty quick . - 1 - did you saw jamb anchors before hauling on it with tractor - (else more of the wall mifght have come with door?)? 2 - how many hours was this repair? - one fella, hammer, wheelbarrow, shovel, trowel, water....4 hours?
Hi harley, the anchors and door was rotted, and I loosed it with a crowbar, so it was ready to fall out anyway, the owners bought the door, and after going for the cement and extras about 6 hours, it's a day and half no matter how you look at it, thanks mike
Good video Mike. Does the angle iron need to be fastened with hardware to the door ? What keeps the angle iron tied to the door and structure. Thank you .
Great job as usual Mike! Btw, I think that code for the door having to swing to the outside started in Pennsylvania. The way I remember, there was an old movie house or music hall that caught fire, and most of the people died because they only had doors that swung inside.. They panicked and ended up trampling and blocking the exits....
@@MikeHaduck Most codes make sense. I used to think plumbing codes for waste water drain lines and the slope of the lines were overkill. Thats until I read and saw firsthand about the substantial problems that occur when people replace the old 3-1/2 gallon flush toilets with new 1-1/3 gallon flush toilets. Theres no doubt that the old cast iron pipes need those 3 gallons because cast iron pipes have more flow resistance than PVC. Its a given that the new toilets will not carry all of the waste to the curb sewer lines. And then the toilets clog. And then the homeowner has to spend 15K to tunnel under their slabs and replace all the cast iron lines with PVC. Codes are there for a reason even though they might not make sense at first.
See that flat wall the water just runs down the face under the frame and into the door as it’s rusts internally. Put a rain drip / rain diverter to allow water to drip away from the frame as the cohesion of water flowing down is diverted away from your steel frame and door. Also limit ice melter as it destroys aluminum and steel.
Any suggestion on replacing cast in place frame from a tilt-up concrete wall. I'm thinking it is going to a lot tougher than pulling the frame from a block wall? Can it be done without a wall saw?
How do i find someone with “similar” skills? How do i find this special talent in Meridian, Ms.? A mason? A door dude? It’s soooo hard to find men that know what they are doing!!!
The area I'll be working in is rural, with well water, pumped from the ground. Do you concern yourself with the water chemistry when mixing the various cements and mortars?
@@MikeHaduck sorry for the confusion, I was concerned about how local water would change the chemistry of the cement. Could a bad water composition slow cement setting, or ruin the cement mix and cause it to be less durable, or worse, never set?
I assume that if the door had been too low, you would simply reverse the proposes. Knockout the side blocks, lower the beam and fill in the gap. Is that right? Also, this would probably work if the door was too wide or too slim. Knockout or fill in one side and mount the door.
Been doing a few of these lately. But always uncertain about what to charge. What kinda total price this type of job going for nowadays? Or is that super top secret?
Alright I just found your channel. I've been in Carpentery for 31 years. I decided I'm to old to keep framing so now I'm matinence for hud. We had our office remodeled and we have these same doors, but I locked myself out and had a guy that's street savvy I wanted to see how he would break in, just to see how secure they are. It took 3 minutes and he was in We have all the ada requirements for them good locks self coders and all he took a hammer and screwdriver popped the caps off of the 3 hinges popped the pins out and pried them off easily. I was shocked how easy it was, and it's in a very bad neighborhood. Last week 3 murders so we need it to be safe, do you have any ideas?
Hi Shawn, maybe a bank vault door, but then lots of them been broken into, I know from experience you can't stop someone who has the knowledge of doors, locks are for the more honest folk, lol, mike
They make hinges with non-removable pins. Full surface hinges also prevent this issue. Select SL-57 or Hager Roton hinges are great retrofits for butt hinges.
Come on Mike. You must be watching me. You seem to know every aspect of my list. This is near the top. Have to trim bottom of steel door. Need answer on sill plate. I assume I lay a stable level base. Then measure. Bilco's are made of concete, with a flap. You can be sure Ill let you know. Thanx again
Thank you Jerome, actually no dill plate on this one or sweep they said no need to worry about heat, they just were worried about the rats getting out, lol, Mike
Unfortunately I cant go up,as mine is an entrance to basement. Watched a vid on how to purchase a stick door. Remove base piece. Shorten then replace sill bottom. Not easy, nut can be done
Hi Steven, usually a door company would come in and build the door to fit, but usually you have them come over and give the measurement first, then cut it out, but if you buy a door off the rack, you usually build it out to fit usually wood and cover it with metal or cut it out, whatever works, Mike
Those tie ins are no good. There should be a solid tie in from the door to be sandwiched into the block. Otherwise there is nothing really holding it in..unless you pour down some mud down the sides.
