Steering Play Fix

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*PLEASE READ THIS VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video we show you how to fix play in your steering shaft on a 3rd Gen 4runner or 1st Gen Tacoma. If you have play in your steering that you just can't figure out, it might be coming from the main steering shaft.
If you like the tack weld method but don't own a welder, you could simply take your shaft to a local shop that welds, a muffler shop would be a possible choice, and have them throw on a couple quick tack welds onto the shaft for you. I can't see a shop charging you more than $20 bucks to do this for you.
**Link to a TTORA forum write-up for this repair:
www.ttora.com/forum/2-early-t...
**If you were wondering what a replacement steering shaft would run, it's around $230 (online pricing). Steering Shaft - Part Number #45210-60121
ebay.us/pdlzLI
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythet...
*JIS Screwdriver - (not used in video but this is a much better screwdriver to use on Japanese made vehicles. Japanese vehicle are made with Japanese Industrial Standard screws and not phillips head screws. There's a slight difference and a JIS screwdriver will fit the heads better so less chance of stripping) amzn.to/31nlP0f
*Telescoping Magnet Pick-up Tool - (15 lb pull capacity) - (to help remove screws from steering column trip piece) amzn.to/35LM4jo
*Auto Trim Removal Set - (to help separate steering column trim halves)
amzn.to/37vgzvH
*Vice Grip Set - (used to remove tilt wheel springs)
amzn.to/2EuMuyX
*Brite-Mark Medium Tip Paint Marker, Orange - (used to mark steering shaft)
amzn.to/2OyTwre
*Painter’s Tape - (used to hold steering wheel in position)
amzn.to/2PnQojx
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (used a 3/8" ratchet on the steering shaft bolt. These ratchets are super functional and will make your wrenching life easier)
amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set
amzn.to/2KnoYaq
*Allen Wrenches (Metric and SAE) - (used a 6mm allen wrench to remove allen screws that hold steering shaft in place. This is a nice complete set of metric and SAE allen wrenches) amzn.to/34blIqP
*Straight Needle Nose Pliers - (used to compress plastic clips to separate wiring harness from the steering column) amzn.to/2pQ6yIa
*Molybdenum Fortified Lithium Based Grease - (used a moly lithium based grease to lubricate steering tilt wheel ball) amzn.to/2OZMFr7
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.

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Опубликовано:

9 дек 2018

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Комментарии : 419

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

*PLEASE READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*

@marksimcoe4105 4 года назад

I got everything apart and I'm waiting on Amazon to deliver the rolled pins. I just noticed the spring inside the ball looks exactly like the spring for the steering guide. I still have my old spring from the guide so I will compare the two and let you know if they are the same spring rate or not. I'm looking for a beefier spring for the ball to see if that might work instead of the shim but, I'll probably go the shim route in the end. After the ball was re-installed with the shim was there any space at all between each half?

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

@@marksimcoe4105 With the shim installed, there was no gap. It made getting the ball in place pretty tight.

@marksimcoe4105 4 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman With the shim installed we have effectively taken the spring out of the equation and it's basically acting like a solid ball. I wonder why Toyota doesn't make it a solid piece (out of Delrin) as it would no doubt be less expensive to make. Also, I did not notice this until I was starting to drill the hole for my pin but, there are two nylon pins installed already. Two on one side and two on the other side (they are white). They don't go all the way through so there are really 4 different pins. The part of the column in the middle of the shaft is solid not hollow as I thought it would be. So there is a lot of metal to drill through and I wore out a carbide tipped drill bit trying to drill through to the other side (could have been a cheap bit). Anyway, if you plan on drilling all the way through I would suggest a drill press and not a hand held drill. One alternative would be to use the holes for the nylon pins. The nylon pin size is a shade under 1/8 of an inch so you could drill out the nylon pins with a small bit (less than 1/8 inch) and then try to tap in a 1/8 inch rolled steel pin (I would try 1/8 first then 3/32 if 1/8 doesn't work) and you might not even have to drill a hole. I would suggest welding anyway and that is what I plan to do when I get back to Atlanta even though I will install a pin to fix the issue until then. Hope this helps someone.

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Mark Simcoe thanks for adding your experience.

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Mark Simcoe Yeah, a couple lite tack welds is the way to go in my opinion.

@jacobbostick4693 3 года назад

Extremely glad I found this video. I feel like I've been chasing a ghost for years now. This thing would swerve unexpectedly next other vehicles and semitrailers. Im talking about going crazy trying to figure out why this truck is doing what i call drunk man steering. I have replaced everything on the front end of my lil Tacoma 2rz that i could think of and other mechanics could think of. Wheel bearings, brake rotors, inner and outer tie rod ends and ball joints, rack, sway bar bushings, and about 8 alignment shops later come to find out its sloppy fit with in the steering column. A few tack welds and other modifications and Now My lil Tacoma literally handles like a go-cart. If i could hug you i literally would right now

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

Hey Jacob, sounds like you went to hell and back with this problem and I'm happy you finally found the fix you needed on our channel. Virtual hug accepted. Happy Wrenching!

@6marmots 3 года назад

Another great video! This completely tightened up my steering slop. I've already replaced tie rods and a leaky steering rack last year but there was about an inch of free play at my steering wheel and this was the culprit. Rather than tack weld we decided to "dimple" the shaft in a few places with a center punch. While this may work itself loose again in a few years, it feels rock solid right now and seems more likely to be able to collapse in a collision. If it does get loose in the future, it's pretty quick to pull it out again. We did the "tilt ball" shim as well to be sure. Thanks Tim!

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

Hey Max, great to hear this fixed your steering slop and thanks for sharing your technique for fixing the shaft play. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

@tedalvarez8161 3 года назад

Sweet. I am going to attempt this on my. 2008 camry 2.4l.

@timothyconnecticut1910 2 года назад

Drill and tap outer shaft directly where the plastic shear pins are located. Install set screws and tighten down to apply pressure on the inner shaft. This eliminates the wheel shake and still allows the shaft to collapse in the event of a frontal collision. I had a 2003 that I did this to myself ( former mechanic) and worked great. The roll pin idea works only for a short time because eventually the holes will slightly egg shape and become loose again. The set screw could be tightened more if / when needed. A bit of lock tite is even better.

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

Thanks for the idea.

@elliiothart18 Год назад

So the set screws tighten into the hole of the inner shaft? Good idea. I'm sure thread locker is a must.

@TrevorDyck Год назад

Thanks to this suggestion, I did this on my 4R last week with 2 M4x0.70 5mm set screws on opposing sides (4 total). Perfect fix. My steps (after removing steering wheel and shaft per the video) were: 1. Put the wheel and shaft on the workbench. With a drill bit sized to match the plastic sheer pins, drill them both out just deep enough to pass through the outer steel tube but not all the way through. 2. Use a paint pen or sharpie to match mark the outer and inner shaft for alignment and *DEPTH* later. We're going to remove the other tube entirely. 3. Lock the inner shaft in a vise. Use a brass punch and hammer to tap the outer shaft completely off of the inner shaft. 4. Take the inner shaft out of the vise. Put the outer shaft in the vise with the existing shear pin holes facing up. Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill out the existing holes and keep going all the way through, drilling holes on the other side of the shaft as well. 5. Tap the 4 holes with an M4x0.70 tap 6. Take the shaft out of the vise. Check your match marks on the inner and outer shaft, line them up, and use a plastic mallet or something after than the steel shaft to hammer the outer shaft back onto the inner shaft. Tap it up to the mark you made earlier to set the correct length. 6. Install your 4 set screws with some blue loctite.

@lowlowsandclothes9923 Год назад

You can also just crimp it or shim it, less work

@Jaspreets-Garage 3 месяца назад

This worked great! Thank you!

@tylerho1443 3 месяца назад

I spent 2 years trying to figure out what was the problem with my loose steering…I am so glad I came across this video. I feel like a weight has been lifted from my shoulders. THANK YOU TIMMY!

@TimmyTheToolman 3 месяца назад

You're very welcome Tyler. It was a team effort between Chris, Sean and I.

@Kevin-me7sk 3 года назад

Did this over the weekend and wow. My 4runner feels like a completely different vehicle. Drives like a newer car now. Thanks for the detailed video, it was super easy to follow.

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

You're welcome Kevin. Glad the repair went well for you using our video.

@mustardmoving1885 2 месяца назад

Thank you for this. My shaft was the problem. I gave the world's worst rookie weld and it fixed it right up. 2000 4Runner 2wd SR5.

@robcrowe1550 5 лет назад

Thanks for this informative video, did a double tack job on my steering column this morning, and it took a hour and half from start to finish. Wow what a difference it made. Now truck will be even more enjoyable to drive. Thanks again for vid.

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

that’s awesome to hear Rob. Thanks for coming back to leave a comment about your success!!

@jpc4378 3 года назад

Yet another great video. I had already replaced LBJs, shocks, tie rods and finally the steering rack. Everything was way better, but still had steering play and clunky response, especially over rough pavement. This fix took those symptoms away completely. If you've got steering play, be smarter than me and start with this fix :-)

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

Thanks. Glad this fix worked for you. Happy Wrenching!

@Sami-bc9iv 5 лет назад

Good job. I did mine yesterday. I had lots of play in my steering wheel. The Toyota dealer 14 years ago couldn’t figure out the exact cause of the problem and recommended changing the whole steering assembly (column and gear). Due to the huge cost I declined the recommendation. Thanks to your video, I now figured out the issue (14 years later!!!). I bought a used intermediate shaft with no play in it from a u-pull-it junk yard for $11. By pulling the part myself at the junk yard I got to practice the overall process as you described it and I did not sacrifice safety by spot welding the existing shaft. I cut to size a very thin general-purpose gasket (got it from NAPA for $4) to shim the plastic tilt balls on the new shaft. I disconnected the old intermediate shaft by rotating the tilt balls as described in your video and replace it with the newer shaft. Basically, I connected the new intermediate shaft to my existing steering wheel assembly right at the tilt balls joint.

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Hey Sami, glad our video helped you out and you were able to eliminate the slop in you're steering. Good job fixing it yourself and avoiding the huge expense you would have incurred at the dealer if you followed their advice. We love hearing success stories like this. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!

@Sami-bc9iv 5 лет назад

Hello Tim. I enjoy your videos and your detailed explanations!!!. Any plans on showing how to change the Automatic Shifter Linkage bushings on a 1998 4WD 4runner ? Here are couple of youtube videos on the topic: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wilXhd2YR9Y.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gddEwyQUOgM.html

@Cam.fa20 2 года назад

Just wanted to thank you much! My steering felt horrible once going 35s so decided to knock this project out last night. My slip joint like yours didn’t have any play but decided I’d throw a 3/16” roll pin in as a preventative and did the oil bottle trick as-well. Steering feels great now no more dead spot. Only regret was not doing this any sooner!

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

SICMODS Cam, we are glad it worked out for you and you eventually got r dun’

@vincentmule7527 3 года назад

This fix is actually ridiculous! I recommend anyone with a 3rd gen 4Runner to do this! and don't just weld it make sure you shim the tilt ball it's like a new truck. Thank you!!!

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

Glad it worked out well for you. Thanks for the comment.

@richlien5598 Год назад

Awesome video Timmy. I still had the wandering issue after replacing inner outer tie rods, alignment, wheel balanced and bushing. Finally got it resolved. As always thanks Timmy and special shout out to Chris. Blessed to have him for a neighbor.

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

Thanks Rich. Great to hear our video helped you resolve your wandering steering issue. Chris really isn't a neighbor but he's a friend of ours.

@09ThunderOne 5 лет назад

Just did this yesterday. Thanks for the video. I did have a lot of play at the joint on the shaft. A couple tack welds and I was good as new!

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

09ThunderOne nice dude. We’re glad this helped you and thanks for coming back to leave a comment.

@amerycapl5447 2 года назад

I have the same problem with my Toyota and I thought, that only my car has this problem. Probobly is the same. Timmy, you are the best. Thanks for the movie. You made my life easier :)

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

You're very welcome. I hope what we instruct in this video fixes your steering issues. Happy Wrenching!

@terebrate Год назад

Hey Timmy, I just tested an '01 4Runner steering shaft play. I used medium/large vise grip near the bottom of shaft, above that lower bolt and just in front of brake pedal. With one hand on the vise grip and one on the steering wheel, it seemed easier to feel the definite play in there versus using just your hand on the shaft. Could really feel (and even hear) the slight clunk. This is the second time I'm doing this operation, with your video as the guide, thanks again.

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

Thanks for sharing your technique to feel the play in the steering shaft. Glad our video has helped you out.

@donkeybizle 3 года назад

Daily reminder that Tim the TOOLMAN IS THE MAN. Fixed my steering on the T100 today brotha

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

Good job getting er dun.

@StMateo 5 лет назад

I performed this same procedure on my 04 Tacoma. Except I chose to install steel roll pins since I don't have welder. Great job explaining how to remove the steering column.

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Thanks Vic.

@trevorpomroy550 3 года назад

Wow! Thanks for this! I just came inside from replacing a sloppy yoke in my 2004 IS300. There is still about 1/4 inch of play in the steering that I think is coming from the tilt ball. Thanks for the detailed video about my specific problem! All the best!

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

You're very welcome Trevor. I hope the repair fixes your steering slop.

@albertdemeo7405 2 года назад

Referenced this video today while doing this job, thanks again for the helpful content. I added two tack welds on the slip joint per the vid, but I didn't shim my chingadera (tilt ball). Steering is nice and tight now, very happy with the results. One small thing: after getting it all back together per my match marks, I felt like I was maybe one spline off of having the wheel perfectly straight. I think this has to do with welding the sloppy slip joint in a different slop orientation than when I made the match marks. Someday when I'm bored I might yank it and rotate it one spline, but overall it's a huge improvement. Thanks again Timmy, keep em coming!

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

Good job Albert. Glad our video helped you out. We do have a video for pulling the steering wheel if you want to try to get it straighter. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--kByS-4puf0.html

@qbanchk3 2 года назад

At first I was like did he just say tighter than a gnats ass?!?? Then I was almost done howling about that and he killed me with “chingadera” 😂🤣🤣 Anywho, you have a fan for life. My first steering column exploratory surgery will happen tomorrow and y’all are my go to channel for everything car related now. I love the “live feed” video and verbal description.

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

Glad you enjoy some of the terminology I use. I sometimes wonder if people are listening carefully to what I'm saying, and I guess some are. Welcome to our channel and good luck with the steering shaft fix. Happy Wrenching!

@anthonyreddy2834 5 лет назад

Did this same fix to my 05 tacoma, except I drilled a hole on either side of outer shaft(not all the way through) then rosset welded the holes, this curved that but after further inspection, down on the floor under that black plastic cover is a rubber like joint that is riveted in two spots on each side of this joint. (Kinda like a Chevy Rag joint) One of the rivets, tore through this joint. A new intermediate shaft cost $264-$309! 😳 I couldn't find just this joint. So I used a 3 inch diameter energy suspension body mount that I had from along time ago, used 4x grade eight nuts, bolts, lock washers and Red loctite, too create a new, stronger joint. No more rattle or play, there's no issues with binding or anything else I can see. Great video as always!

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Good job Macgyvering a fix for your steering.

@Wajjajagg 5 лет назад

God bless ya! My damn tacoma kept doing this & it was pissing me off everytime i hit a bump it had massive play & would wonder but took it all apart & tac welded it today & solved it thank you so much!!!

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

You're welcome. Glad this fixed the play in your steering.

@salgonzalez3193 5 лет назад

Perfect timing I was just talking about this!!!

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Glad it worked out for you to have this video to consult. Good luck with the job.

@puremaledark8305 4 года назад

Did this yesterday with the 3/16 tension pin. Night and day difference!

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Glad it worked out for you.

@nicksandoval4618 Год назад

Thank you for this! I just rebuilt my front end and did this. It drives like a slot car now🙌🏽

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

You're very welcome Nick. Glad our video helped you out. Thanks for the comment.

@NSBsurfer15 3 месяца назад

Tim, your videos are invaluable. Such a great step by step and I depth how to. Well done. Thank you !!

@TimmyTheToolman 3 месяца назад

Thanks for the nice compliment and you're very welcome!

@matanamidor 3 года назад

Hi TimmyTheToolam, first of all thank you so much, working with your videos in the shop feels like a toddler being held by his papa :) I own 3rd gen 4runner, bought it under pressure, and somehow let myself buy a car with steering problems. the mechanic i went see told me that i will need to replace inner & outer tie rods (so i did), took the car after for alignment (which they did unsuccessfully 3 times), in the tires place he told me that it might be some freedom in the pinion. i came across that video that suggest the drive shaft, i do suspect that this is the more reasonable issue because when i'm holding my shaft and move the wheel there is a clank and a feeling of freedom - but yet again in that same video you show that after removing the driveshaft its not as loose as you thought, i also replaced steering rack bushings + sway bar bushings. so, i will not spend the money right now for trying replace my steering rack, nor welding the shaft and taking the danger that it will not collapse like it should in a case of an accident sounds right, my question is: while driving the road, except of annoying sloppiness there are no sounds or any other problems, going of road, the sloppiness get worse, and there are clunks when going on washboard or bumpy road. im not a rock crawler, not even a 4wheel driving really, i just want to go camp in beautiful views and be sure that im not going to get stuck on the rim of the grand canyon with no cellphone and no steering. hope that i made my self clear, appreciate your time and willingness to answer thank you

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

Sloppiness in the steering can be caused by a lot of things, including the steering shaft that you don't want to tack weld. You already addressed the steering rack bushings so that's good. You might benefit from a steering rack guide upgrade. We have a video for that. You could have excessive play in your control arm bushings, lower and upper. You could have play in your inner tie rods. So, you'll have to do more inspection to see what you see to get rid of the play. When it comes to the defeating the collapseability the steering shaft, people don't realize how significant of an impact that would take to be a factor. Yes, it's a safety feature, but if you hit something hard enough to force the steering shaft upward, that would be an impact that would require incredible force and intrusion and I would suspect any occupants would be dead or close to it. Lots of people have corrected their steering play with that tack weld fix so I wouldn't discount it unless you're willing to deal with excessive steering wheel play for the life of your rig. If you want to purchase a new steering shaft, that's an option, but a very expensive option.

@Mike_44 3 года назад

Great work as always! Thank you for the video

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

Thanks Mike.

@DesertRatLife 5 месяцев назад

Finally got around to doing this mod. Worked great. Thanks for the video.

@TimmyTheToolman 5 месяцев назад

Sicmods bro! - Sean

@ls_gill1582 3 года назад

Timmy... just when I thought you needed to make this vid.. you already had it up. Good sir I owe you a cold beer.

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

I like strong IPAs, doubles and triples. Good luck with the fix.

@ls_gill1582 3 года назад

You got it man. I’m in Brentwood so hopefully some times soon!

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

@@ls_gill1582 We're going to have a party this summer so hopefully you can make it.

@MrSnobby24 5 лет назад

Thank you very much for this great video

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

You're very welcome.

@Hefa Год назад

Thx man youre saving my time and money 🤘 All works well now 😊

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

You're very welcome. It's great to know our video helped you out.

@gbankson1968 5 лет назад

Awesome work!!

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

We're glad you think so Glenn.

@odalisalmonte6121 Год назад

Thank you very much "Timmy The Toolman"... That's all I have to fix on my 3rd gen 2002 Toyota 4Runner (it has just a little play on it)... Thanks a lot!!!

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

You're very welcome.

@davidcampbell334 5 лет назад

I just did this a few hours ago! Great video alot of help! I had alot of play at the shaft. Couple of tac welds fixed it! Thanks Toolman!!!

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Good to hear this fix worked well for you David. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

@patandbrandi 5 лет назад

A+ for a thorough instruction. I get play vibrations on certain roads at hwy speed. I'll have to look into this

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Thanks Pat. Your vibrations could just be from the wheels needing balancing. If you haven't had the balancing checked in a while, it might be worthwhile to do.

@patandbrandi 4 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman check steering rack bushings they are easy to inspect using a camera or a friend to see if you have slop in the rack. are pretty easy replace. I posted a video of mine. (timmy knows this but it's for future viewership)

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

@@patandbrandi Hey Pat, been there done that. Replacing steering rack bushings was one or our very first videos over 3 years ago.

@verticalchallenger Год назад

After near two decades of wandering steering, did this today. Now steers straighter than my 2022 Subaru Ascent.

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

Glad to hear it worked out for you.

@miketyler2513 3 года назад

Well I'll be horndorgled...watched this and headed out to the truck and THAT"S IT!!!! Thanks for showing this fix . I would never have thought of the worn ball being the culprit. A plastic shim is cheaper than replacing what probably didn't need replacing in the first place.

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

Glad our video helped you solve your steering issue Mike. Happy Wrenching!

@miketyler2513 3 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman Took me 2hrs. but that did fix the play . Thanks again for a well done video. I woulda been tooo sceerd to even attempt the work without knowing what was what.

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

@@miketyler2513 Great to hear Mike. Glad it worked out well for you.

@dudebruhdude 5 лет назад

Thanks for the great video!.....Chris has a nice lil ninja grow room lol.

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

You're welcome. Yeah, Chris has a green thumb and likes to grow Tulips and Roses all year long.

@BionicLesbian Год назад

Excellent well-done video 👏

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

Thanks Jaime.

@stevebowling6884 Год назад

I like the idea for tapping the outer shaft. I used a punch on the small plastic pins and the play was fixed. I drilled each pin out by hand with 1/16 drill bit and replaced with a 3D printed plastic pin.

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

Roger Dodger. Thanks for the comment.

@backroadseeker08 5 лет назад

Good job explaining the ramifications of the safety slip joint. I elected to replace my steering column since this is a safety feature. However, welding is far cheaper...

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Yep, I added a link to Camelback Toyota for a replacement main steering shaft. It's definitely a savings by doing the tack welds but people have to realize the potential consequences.

@bigsmallblock9480 4 года назад

Spending time walking through salvage yards has tought me the importance of the collapsible steering shaft. Just hope it's never needed. These are a good fix but I really like that you include the option of replacement.

@donsotto11 5 лет назад

Great Video!

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Don Sotto great comment!

@TheMcCoon 4 года назад

Just did this fix. What a great improvement! Thanks for the video. It helped a lot while I was working on my truck.

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

You're welcome. Glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

@jkfuel 5 лет назад

Another great video! Do you happen to have any videos on changing out the rear main seal? Keep up the great content!

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Glad you like the video. We actually had the transmission out of Sean's rig but decided not to replace the rear main seal. But, the video series of pulling Sean's transmission pretty much gets you in there. All you'd need to do is remove the flex plate, pull the seal and replace it. Here's link to the 3 videos: Video #1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oZDSjlxl2Q4.html Video #2 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O4GA3UhPC5Y.html Video #3 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-T4YY3IfnzaQ.html

@mikekrueger8989 5 лет назад

Great video. I did this on my 99 several months ago using the written instructions... and this video is spot on. Be careful with the 3 electrical clips under the wheel... looks like you guys broke the clip on the 3rd one during removal. ;-) Mine made a world of difference both in highway speed wandering and also chatter while off road. IMO a worthwhile fix and only takes 1-2 hours tops. I used the roll pin method instead of tack weld.

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Thanks Mike. Good eye about the electrical clips. Chris did break that last one. I never use pliers to disconnect electrical connectors for the fear of cracking them. I was concentrating more on what I was saying for the video, so by the time I thought of mentioning something to Chris about using the needle nose pliers, the damage was already done. Oh well, live and learn. Even though Chris' joint felt really tight, he said there was a definite improvement with his steering after the job.

@decay16 Год назад

solid video, good job

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

Thanks!

@echosierraenroute 4 года назад

i have quite ALOT of play in my 1998 with 185K, funny was my steering rack bushings were totally shot when i bought it around 182k and seeing this play in sterring rack, i wonder if it was abused in off road or something causing both these issues... is it more likely that the shaft weld area causes way more play than the shim insert in the weird ball thing? excellent video! thanks again so much for your videos timmy!

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

185k is a fair amount of miles so time and mileage can do a number on those bushings along with any oils that get on the rubber and deteriorate it more quickly. Sure, a previous owner could have also wheeled it hard but if there's not obvious undercarriage scars, the person couldn't have wheeled it that hard unless they were jumping sand dunes. Glad you like our videos. You're very welcome and have fun wrenching on your rig.

@williamtsol636 5 лет назад

Great video ! Thanks bro !

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Thanks William and you're welcome. You've got to make it to our next party. We missed you at the last one.

@williamtsol636 5 лет назад

@@TimmyTheToolman Ok will do ! Thanks Timmy !

@gbankson1968 4 года назад

Great Video!!!! Thanks

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

We're glad you think so Glenn. You're very welcome!

@Dan_Amaii 2 года назад

You guys rock

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

Thanks Dan!

@Drupthop 3 месяца назад

Same if you’ve got a notch in the turn radius? I don’t have the slop. Thanks Dave ‘98 4R 5 M/T 4WD SR5 You’ve got so many videos, I am constantly finding videos that I was previously unaware that you’ve covered

@mikesteinmetz8198 2 года назад

Thanks! I think I have to replace my universal joint so this kind of helped me out.

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

You're welcome.

@redsledski Год назад

So I bought my Taco years ago when it had 54,000 miles on it. It was my second Taco; my first was a true first gen 95.5. After 300,000 miles I replaced it with the current one, which now has 288,000. It's been a basically drama-free ride, little required repairs, but since first owning it, it has had this column looseness issue, which was irritating in that my old Tacoma never suffered the issue. At any rate, I just lived with it. Today I finally tackled it, using this vid as a guide, and now I'm kicking myself for not doing it 230,000 miles ago. Not only is it super easy to tackle (did it in under an hour), but what a huge improvement, especially going over bumps that rattled the front end. Now my front end was in good shape, having changed the lower ball joints, struts and rack bushings many miles before, so no other issues were problematic. Feels like a new truck. SERIOUSLY!!! I did not have access to a welder so I opted for the roll (spring pin) fix. Some notes on doing the roll pin fix that I couldn't find info on beforehand: the two plastic (actually there a four total) pins do not go all the way through the inner shaft, which is solid steel (not hollow). I used a smaller than 1/8 drill bit to drill out of the opposing plastic "pinning" pins and then alternated through each side until I met in the middle of the shaft (so as to drill as straight as possible in regards to the opposite side holes). Then I followed up with a 1/8" drill for the roll pin. The roll pin I used was a 1/8" dia. X 1 1/8" long pin (wasn't sure on the length but went long becaiuse I couldn't make a second trip to the faster store once I tore into it). Once tapped in, I ground off the protruding excess pin and reassembled the entire assembly. I had to go to Fastenal to get the pin; Home Depot did not have any. I only did one pin; saw no need to do two. As for safety of roll-pinning a shaft that was pinned with plastic so as to telescope somewhat in a crash, any crash that catastrophic will sheer the puny 1/8" pin long before the two beefy hex head side bolts anchoring the column give way; so it seems kinda silly to worry about the pin sheer strength causing a safety issue IMO. With post covid vehicle pricing so crazy high, I guess my next project is a Yoto1 engine in a year or so; driving up the mountain passes twice a week is really showing how much power loss an even well-maintained 5vz fe suffers from at high milage. It's getting ugly!

@redsledski Год назад

Another note about "pinning" the column, the plastic pins are only approx. 1/8" deep into the assembly--THEY DO NOT GO ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE INNER SHAFT!!! When you drill into them the bit only goes about an 1/8" in before hitting solid metal. So, if I were to do it again, I wouldn't even bother drilling into the pins; I would just drill an 1/8 hole through the shafts between the plastic pins, and by doing so you don't need to be perfectly straight when you drill. I'm an aircraft mechanic with many years of structure experience so drilling straight is a perfected skill. Just drilling through the middle eliminates any issue with trying to hit the pin holes on the opposite side perfectly. Also, it is my understanding, and this makes sense, a main reason those little plastic pins wear out is from people using the steering wheel to pull themselves in and out of the truck. The previous owner of my truck was very, very short, and most probably used the wheel while engine off/pwr steering off to get in and out of the truck, thus wearing out the plastic pins.

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

@redsledski I never liked the rolled pin idea. Seemed like a pain in the ass. You could have brought your steering shaft to a muffler shop, and they probably would have charged you $20 or less to tack it for you. It's literally a 5 minute job. As for your engine getting tired, do a compression check of the cylinders to see where you're at. I have around 250k on my 2000 4runner, and I just completed a valve adjustment and valve cover gasket job. My valve lash was pretty good. All but 2 valves weren't in spec, but I ended up adjusting 12 valves that were either on the high or low end of the spec. It's not a fun job replacing valve shims, but it could improve compression numbers and, thus, more power.

@redsledski Год назад

@@TimmyTheToolman First, thanks for the reply! Love your vids; have used them for several projects. Especially appreciate the tool references too. As for the roll pin vs weld... My truck is my only ride, so once I dove into the project I needed to do it without further travel (like to a muffler shop). I swear one day I'm going to buy a welder. One day... Regardless, it probably took me 5 min to drill and install the roll pin once the shaft was pulled, and it would have took less time had I just drilled a hole between the pin points. That said, I just gave the info above so people in my same situation know what size roll pin is needed and where can be drilled, which took a little bit (the roll pin/drill bit size) on Taco forums to figure out. I've thought about checking valve/cam specs... Again, the fact it is my only vehicle makes it difficult to get shims once I dive into it. But what I have done, to marginal improvement: fuel filter, plugs, mass airflow sensor, 02 sensors, muffler and SeaFoam. I checked compression and have 170 psi across all 6 cylinders. I've heard 190-174 is considered a good, healthy engine. 150 psi is considered a dead engine. At 288,000 170 psi seems decent enough. Never requires oil between changes, no smoke, no hesitation issues,. emissions tests well, and plugs look perfect. Runs like a Singer Sewing Machine. A wet compression test reads 205 psi across all cylinders. That suggests the compression rings are somewhat worn, as I would expect. But still, driving up into the mountains, up 6% grades on I70 out of Denver, with the overdrive selected off, it can barely manage 65 mph, and that is without a headwind. Not sure how long it has been down on power due to the fact I only moved up here 2 years ago from the flatlands, and I'm a long time Taco owner 22Rs, 22REs, 2.7 liter Tacoma, and now the 3.4, which means I know they aren't built to be drag racers, but what I also do know is that other first gen trucks are all motoring past, and there are a lot up here. So there is definitely power loss somewhere affecting the 2300-3000 amp range. 4000 rpm the truck pulls well. Besides valve clearance my other thought: maybe the cats are no longer flowing well, or, and next timing belt change I'll look at this, the timing gear woodruff key might be slightly worn and retarding the timing a skosh.

@redsledski Год назад

Would I be correct in assuming the 5vz ECU advances ignition timing as the RPM move up past midrange, reading the timing sensor and rpms to determine the advancing? And would I be correct to think that if the timing gear key is slightly worn, resulting in timing retarding a degree or two, the ECU in response to less than ideal fuel burn readings from the upper O2 sensor, would cut fuel flow as to not be over-rich?

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

@@redsledski You're asking questions above my pay grade.

@user-fs9kz5tb9s 2 года назад

thank you very helpful video

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

You're very welcome.

@jon-xt6mo 4 года назад

thanks guys

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

You're welcome Johnathan.

@carlosaleman1 4 года назад

Great video!!!

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Thanks Carlos. We're glad you like it.

@carlosaleman1 4 года назад

I took my 1999 4Runner to a local dealer and they could not figure out why steering wheel had play... Til I ran into your video... Thank you..

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

@@carlosaleman1 You just learned a valuable lesson that I learned many years ago myself. Just because they are a Toyota dealer with trained mechanics doesn't mean they know a lot about your particular rig. If you do your homework, quite often, you will know more than them. So, it's for this reason why I prefer doing my own work. Why pay high labor rates to let someone work on your rig that's less knowledgeable than you? If you do your own work, you get to make sure it was done right and you save a ton of money in the process. It's a win-win. Happy Wrenching Carlos!

@cambamk 4 года назад

You the man

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Thanks for noticing.

@AntonioClaudioMichael 5 лет назад

What a great video

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Thanks Antonio. Glad you think so.

@AntonioClaudioMichael 5 лет назад

@@TimmyTheToolman your welcome your videos are awesome for trying to repair new things I'm a engine mechanic but always nice to learn new repairs on my 2000 4runner

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

@@AntonioClaudioMichael That's good to know. I might need your engine skills one day.

@mydaddy5393 Год назад

One of the best videos I've seen on this. Thank you!

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it! You're welcome.

@ashrafsiddiquee3190 2 года назад

My steering was making loud noise when I used to steer left or right. Delar told me to replace steering shaft and estimated $1100 for my 07 camry. Local shop said $450. I just lubricated steering shaft and ujoints with WD 40. Problem solved forever. Nomore noise at all

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

Good job!

@gustavopuerto5818 2 года назад

Thankyou is ver y good explein good repair andar learning te best.

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

You're very welcome.

@agritools5502 2 года назад

Thanks helpful

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

You're welcome. Glad you found it helpful.

@johnhalchishick7094 Год назад

My Toyota started out with just really loose steering wheel.Now I can literally pull on the wheel or hit a good bump and the wheel will free spin.I can wiggle the wheel and push it will move like a inch or so and steering comes back.Well I know I'll have to work on it and I'm sure your video will help.The air bag seems a little scary but so is loosing stearing

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

Good luck with fixing your sloppy steering. It sounds like you have more going on than play in that steering joint we tack welded.

@damacknificent151 5 лет назад

Hey Timmy keep these good informative vids up. They really help. I actually have a question for you. But it would be too confusing. I replaced 4 bushings on my 3rd gen 4runner's transmission shifter( automatic ) it was way too wobbly, but still worked the way it's supposed to. But i think i ruined my 4x4 shifter. Now it wont engage into 4lo. It grinds, when trying to put back to 4hi it will grind too, so ibhave to turn the runner off then put back into 4hi and turn off 4x4 to get it back to 2hi. I did have to remove the 8 bolts that hold the transmission shifter and 4x4 shifter to get to the bottom 2 bushings and the transmission linkage too. Any idea's what might've happen. I hope i dont have to drop the transfer case to see if the fork of guide is off.

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

We will continue to make videos for sure and it's good to hear you have found them helpful. In regards to your shifter problem, when you're trying to shift into 4Lo, do you have the automatic transmission in neutral before you are trying to shift it in? Going into 4Lo, the transfer case will grind a bit. But, the faster you throw the shifter, the smoother it will be. If you move the shifter really slow into 4Lo, you will feel the gears chattering as they try to find alignment. I learned if I just do a sort of quick fluid movement, it barely grinds at all. Now, if you're saying the transfer case won't physically shift into 4Lo while the engine is running, that's a different thing. If that's the case, maybe you didn't get your transfer case shifter in correctly. The end of the transfer case shift has what looks to be a hard plastic end that slides into the shifting rod. There's really only one way to get it in correctly but maybe you were able to get it incorrectly somehow. I would pull off the shifter assemblies again and double check you got the transfer case shifter in correctly. While you're doing that, I'd replace your transfer case shifter seat. You can remove the top plate that the shifter sits in and remove the old seat. I would bet yours is disintegrating because they were on my 98 and Sean's 02. You can just pick out the old shifter seat with a small screwdriver. Marlin Crawler sells an aftermarket shifter seat that works well. Then you can buy the gasket for that top plate from Toyota. Here's a link to purchase the shifter seat: www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/parts-upgrade/shifter-parts/heavy-duty-shifter-seat-forward-shift The seat has cut-outs in it to allow you to slide the bushing in and then rotate it into position. I wish I would have made a video for this but I didn't. However, it's pretty self-explanatory. Let me know what you figure out and if you have more questions, just ask.

@Sonnys502 3 года назад

I hope this is my issue, hoping to fix my LC200. Thank you.

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

Good luck with the job. Hope it is the fix you're looking for.

@sammckibbin7643 Год назад

Hey man you inspired me so i just picked up an is300 wheel with clock spring for my 2002. I noticed the connector on my wheel is 5 pin while the clock spring is 6 pin, will this be an issue with the swap being that rhe 4runner connector under the wheel is 4 pin? Also for me i dont care about the IS wheel controls, can i just connect them without the additional 2 wires?

@ScottyG-pu6mh 11 месяцев назад

Hey guys, great video!! Thank you I have a question though. I disconnected my steering wheel this weekend to change the dust cover. When I was hooking up everything, I had to turn the wheel 180 to get it line up. Well, I turns out I didn’t need to turn it because it’s now upside down🤦🏼‍♂️… and now I can’t remember which way I turned it so I can turn it back. Is there anyway to tell which way it needs to go? Thank you

@TimmyTheToolman 11 месяцев назад

There are many splines in the shaft that should allow you to install the steering wheel in 10° increments. - Sean

@bizcotch 3 года назад

“The chingadera” part 😂

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

it's a technical term.

@d.b.newman6252 3 года назад

Turns out someone already pinned mine and it was still loose so I tacked it and put the oil bottle shim in and wow did it make a very noticeable difference. Just hope I don't get a steering collum through my chest 🤞

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

Glad the fix worked for you. You would have to get in one hell of an accident for the steering wheel to take you out because you sill have an air bag between you and the steering column. I'm a firefighter and have been to hundreds of accidents. The accidents where's there's massive passenger compartment intrusion usually means nobody survives anyway. Drive smart and drive defensibly and you'll be fine.

@marksimcoe4105 4 года назад

It seems like you could use a stronger spring Instead of the plastic shim for the steering ball. Having only reviewed your video it seems like this would be an effective alternative while keeping the original design principle the same. What do you think?

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Well, that could work but where would you source the spring? Putting in a shim is simple and easy for people to do. But, if you can source a stronger spring and it works, definitely share the link to the spring so others can benefit from it.

@pablopotcasso Год назад

I just noticed the flower room in the garage lol nice

@TimmyTheToolman Год назад

Yeah, Chris likes growing Begonias. It's his favorite flower.

@pablopotcasso Год назад

@@TimmyTheToolman me too

@brucewayne2773 2 года назад

What I did was put a pair of Vice Grips on the shaft held it with one hand against the brake pedal and the other hand move the steering wheel. There was obvious play right away.

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

Yeah lots of people have reported play in these shafts. Lots of people have said this fix helped significantly.

@cehc25 3 года назад

Thanks for the detailed video! Can I do this on a 4th Gen? May be is similar?

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

I'm pretty sure a 4th Gen will have a similar steering joint that could develop play. But, we've never done this on a 4th Gen so we don't know if the steps to taking everything apart would be the same.

@cehc25 3 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the answer! Probably I will try this weekend, and let you know how it goes. I'm suspecting my tilt ball is bad, I don't feel 'loose steering'. My issue is a knock that comes from there, and checked all the other components from there to the wheels and everything ok. Also if I grab the steering wheel from 6 and 12 and apply force, I hear a little knock... another thing that makes me think that ball is the culprit.

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

@@cehc25 Ok, good luck with it and definitely report back so we can learn from your experience. Happy Wrenching!

@cehc25 3 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman Ok, I did it in my 4th gen! Thank you very much for the tutorial. The procedure is quite similar, although there are some differences, but we did it in two hours: Removing the steering column itself is practically the same. The space you have to remove the springs from the top is a little tighter. The airbag connector is a bit different but once you take a good look at it is easy to remove it. Also the bottom of the column (near the firewall) is a bit different, and I had a hard time putting it back together (but maybe because of my poor skills). Finally, the part that collapses is different too, but you can figure out how to weld (although I didn't touch anything there, there was no play). My problem (and the place where I found a lot of play) was the tilt ball, and I did exactly what you did with a piece of plastic. A little difficult to put the little ball back together but now it is much tighter. We reassemble everything and did a test drive, no more knocking when hitting bumps on and off road. Thank you again for the video!

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

@@cehc25 Thanks for reporting back with your experience with your 4th Gen. Good to hear the tilt ball fix corrected your issue.

@Super1337357 5 лет назад

Could you get some sort of bushing and cram it into the slip joint?

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

mr1337357 I can’t picture stuffing something in that area. It’s way to small. A tack weld is the way to go

@andrewgarton1817 4 года назад

Great video but during this process that slip joint moved. Did you take any measurements before welding it in place?

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Hey Andrew, I don't know what part of the video you are referring to that you think there was a change in the length of the shaft but there isn't any in and out movement between the two halves of the shaft. That will only happen under a significant impact like a front end collision.

@elmerrodriguez75 4 года назад

So they only move in a twisting motion? My runner has this prob and my mechanic said lower control arm but we recently had it changed ... And I just changed all the ball joints my self but it's worse

@valerieserna3310 5 лет назад

Have you seen this happen on the Toyota RAV4 ? I have a 2009 with some play on the wheel like this.

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Valerie Serna we don’t really have experience with that vehicle so we don’t know. But it could be similar to this.

@dukechilders1017 2 года назад

I like that domaFlachi Thingamajig ball

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

Good to hear you like my Technical Terminology.

@juliosdiy3206 3 года назад

This is a hell of a job! Toyota should be responsible for this crap. My 2010 taco is playing left n right during high speeds do u suppose mine is using the same shaft assembly idea?

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

There's a good chance the steering shaft is being made the same to collapse during a collision.

@richard9799 2 года назад

So I've been having this happen to me about half a year now. I've actually stopped driving it because of how bad it is. Would you recommend just being a new sterring shadt instead of drilling the holes into it? I'm not sure if just buying a new one will fix the problem.

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

I'd do the tack weld like we show in the video. If you don't have a welder, bring the shaff to a muffler shop and they could do it for you for a few bucks. Buying a new shaft would be very expensive.

@kevon241 4 года назад

Steering wheel shakes and wobbles when I go over bumps and things like that. Could it be the steering column? I checked tie rod ends and all and still didn't fix it. I have a 02 camry

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Hey Kevin, it definitely could be the culprit but it could be other things as well like worn out steering rack bushings, a worn out steering rack guide, worn out tie rods, worn out balljoints, or worn out control arm bushings. You'll need to do some investigation to narrow down the possibilities.

@gabriellujan1791 5 лет назад

I have a cuestion for chris. My toyota camry 2004 2.4 engine, needs a new computer. Do I need to reprogram the new one? I wait for your answer. Thank u

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Chris isn't the person who would answer your question because this is not his channel and I doubt he'll see this question from you. The channel belongs to Sean and I (Timmy). If you're talking picking up a used computer, get one from the same year and model as your Camry and you'll be good to go. If you're buying a new one (very expensive) it will come programmed and ready to go also. If you're getting a computer from a different year and model Camry, there's a good chance you would have to reprogram it so all the functions of your vehicle work properly. The easiest is to just get a computer from the same make and model and it will be all plug and play for you.

@jimmymann4624 4 года назад

I have an 03 tacoma double cab, could this looseness of the shaft cause my wheels to turn right on the highway at speed when I hit the brakes? I changed my left caliper thinking it was siezed, tie rods are tight, rack is tight, im almost left with upper and lower control arm bushings, my ball joints are very tight. Could control arm bushings mimick this type of play?

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Jimmy Mann Hey Jimmy, play in the steering shaft would not cause your rig to pull one way or the other when braking. Definitely sounds like a brake issue to me. Have you checked your rear brakes? Uneven braking in the rear could cause your brakes to pull too. It’s possible you have contaminated rear brake shoes from a rear axle seal failure. But, it is also possible that you’re control arm bushings are really wasted on one side allowing the the arm to shift under a load like braking.

@jimmymann4624 4 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman Got some Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings and that was the fix, I dont have to squeeze my cheeks anymore braking on the highway, Thanks for all your videos and time, thanks so much man, you are truly becoming one heck of a source for these generations of trucks and people.

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

@@jimmymann4624 Hey Jimmy, glad you figured out the problem and got it fixed. You're very welcome. Sean and I like helping people out and it's satisfying when we hear from people like yourself that our videos are making a difference. Happy Wrenching Jimmy!

@poophead123758 8 месяцев назад

Just curious on opinions, Do you think a strong adhesive like a heavy duty silicone or liquid nail glue would be enough to tighten the shaft but still allow to function as intended in accident? Thanks!

@TimmyTheToolman 8 месяцев назад

I'm not sure if that would work as a long-term fix. A collapsing steering shaft isn't the big life-saver people think it is. The best safety features of automobiles are seatbelts and airbags. I'm a firefighter, and I've seen people walk out of crushed cars with minor injuries due to the fact they wore their seatbelt and airbags deployed. If there was a significant enough impact to cause that steering shaft to collapse, the driver and passengers probably aren't going to be alive.

@JohnEboyee 3 месяца назад

Thanks for the video. I've got a steering wheel clunk most noticable off-roading, but reactive steering on the highway, so I believe the slip joint is tight. After pushing on the intermediate shaft's upper u-joint, the clunk is most definitely coming from inside the steering column with a lot of movement noticable at the lower column bushing. There's also slight side to side movement in the steering wheel when pressing in opposing directions at 3 and 9 o'clock. I can't imagine this isn't related to those upper ball halves with a worn out spring. However, I noticed that nothing was mentioned about that lower column bushing that apparently centers the main shaft. Do you remember replacing that and/or notice it worn down during inspection? Tackling this job this weekend and looking forward to diagnosing the issue(s). Good tip on the plastic bottle shim since I can't seem to find those halves from any reputable source.

@TimmyTheToolman 3 месяца назад

Good luck with the job. Hope this fix works for you.

@JohnEboyee 2 месяца назад

@@TimmyTheToolman clunking is a goner! Replaced the main shaft bushing, but the culprit was the tilt ball smacking itself together. Oil bottle shim thickness worked well. Onto the panhard correction in a couple weeks. Always something to do!

@TimmyTheToolman 2 месяца назад

@@JohnEboyee Good job fixing it.

@andyz3925 4 года назад

I feel this Steering wheel "play" as you described but it also does it at slow speeds on a bumpy road. It's a very slight jiggle I feel but not seen. What gets me most is feeling this "play" when driving onto a "lipped" Driveway at an angle. Is this also a symptom of a collapsed shaft?

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Hey Andy, I get that same play feeling in my steering when going out my driveway. I do believe the play we are feeling is in the steering shaft.

@andyz3925 4 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman ahh ok. It's so annoying. I'm gonna have mine checked here soon. Thx Timmy The Toolman!

@shu-wenlu5581 4 года назад

I understand a tack weld is the way to go. I have a 2000 Camry with this problem. Once I take the intermediate steering shaft out and take it to a shop to weld. Since top section needs to insert into the lower section to be weld. Do I have to worry about the total length after these two sections weld together? Will I run into a situation it will not fit correctly either too short or to long? I do not know the right spot to weld. Please clarify. Thanks.

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

You don't have to worry about it not fitting after welding. The shaft is set at the right length and will only change in an accident when the two sections collapse onto into each other. Watch the video and you'll see how we weld just a small spot on opposing sides. It's called "Tacking" because you're just putting in a tiny weld. This type of weld is not for strength but just to hold something in place. If you tell the shop doing the welding for you that you just want them to tack it on opposing sides, they will understand what you're talking about. Or, you can show them the video section where we make the welds. Good luck.

@shu-wenlu5581 4 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman My concern is what is the right length. Since these two sections are movable/flexible, am I supposed to just take it to the shop right after taking it out from my car. By looking at 5:22 of this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oS8WpssOOIE.html you can see they are moving sections. I do not want to get wrong length after tacking. Thanks again.

@onemanzone727 3 года назад

Can you spot weld the shaft without removing it from the vehicle? Thanks for the video !

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

Yes, guys have done that.

@onemanzone727 3 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you, I will give that a try :)

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

@@onemanzone727 Good luck!

@onemanzone727 3 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman PS Dos not look like that will work. The steering column must be removed

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

@@onemanzone727 Hmmm, I thought I remember somebody say they were able to tack weld it with the shaft still on the vehicle.

@marksimcoe4105 4 года назад

Do you know about how long the roll pin would need to be? I don't have a lot of experience with roll pins an wonder if they don't eventually develop slack whereas the weld definitely will not. So my preference would be to use a tack weld but, my MIG welder is at home in Atlanta and there is no welder within walking distance from me in downtown DC so I'm going with a 1/8 inch roll pin. I'm just not sure how long it should be. An estimate is good enough as I can grind down any excess. Depending on how the roll pin works out I may eventually replace it with a tack weld when I get back to Atlanta but, I want to get the play out of the steering now as I have already replaced the steering rack bushings with poly and replaced the steering rack guide with the new version and both made noticeable positive improvements. Thanks.

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Mark we love your last name because it’s one of our favorite hops! Hope you like beer. The roll pin to fit all the way through would need to be longer than 1”... the larger portion of the joint is exactly 1” wide. Some people think they could hammer it maybe with some type of punch to get to be more locked in & alleviate sole of the slop but welding is so much easier, more efficient & better in our opinion.

@marksimcoe4105 4 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman So I was able to put a 5/32 pin on each side of the shaft (pain in the ...) and where I had 1-2 mm of play before, I have zero play now and I doubt those pins will ever loosen. Still going to weld it later. My shim looked so ugly I couId not bear to add it so I added a small shim under the spring and the chingadera fit noticeably tighter. I don't know how much difference it made with regard to play in the steering but, I'm glad I took it apart and re-greased it. I just drove it inside the garage so far but, it felt good. I would not have attempted this in a million years had I not seen your video. Thanks again.

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

@@marksimcoe4105 Good job getting it done. When I saw the two techniques to getting rid of the slop in the shaft, the clear winner in my opinion was the tack weld method. The tack weld method is simple. If you don't have a welder, you bring it to a place like a muffler shop and ask one of the guys to put a couple tack welds on for you. Maybe they charge you $10 since it would literally take them 2 minutes. Drilling into the shaft to fit a rolled steel pin seemed a lot more involved, and like you said, a pain in the ass. But, you got it done and that's the important thing. Glad our video helped you out.

@harryballz6358 3 года назад

I had an old T/A that had this issue and I searched for months to find a used shaft before I locating one. When I first started taking my old shaft out it collapsed on me. I thought "Man that collapsed way too easily?" It was still connected at the bottom so I grabbed the shaft and pulled out as hard as I could so it went back like it was supposed to be. When it snapped back in place it was all tight again. I thought wth, is it loose because it wasn't fully extended like it should be? I reassembled it and took the car for a spin, that original shaft was still tight and never loosened up again when I sold the car 4yrs later. I sold the steering shaft I'd searched for several yrs later. Be sure to collapse and re-extend the old one back out again really hard before buying or rigging it up because it may be all it really needs. Mine even bolted up a bit further back than it originally was so it left the factory a bit short I believe. Personally I'd spend the money for another shaft I don't care what it cost me and why I didn't weld my T/A up. But if I must rig one I'd ever so lightly tack weld it because I want mine to collapse upon impact. The pain suffered from a busted sternum and rib cage your loved one or you will certainly sustain in a crash if one even survives when it don't collapse will be unlike anything they ever felt before. Ask anyone who had their chest cut apart for open heart surgery, they will tell you its excruciating to say the least even heavily medicated and simply cut apart, not busted all to hell in several areas. You can place your fist directly on your sternum and push it in with the other hand, just multiply that pain by about a million, you might me close...lol Just keep in mind people have in fact died from a simple punch in the chest so its collapsible for a reason here folks, don't kill a loved one trying to save a few bucks.

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

We appreciate you leaving your experience here in the comments. Like we’ve said before, the type of impact required to push the steering shaft into your chest would be significant and I think you’d have much bigger problems than the steering shaft. Just make sure your tack welds are just tacks and not a big weld. Does it affect safety slightly? Yes, but these are things the user needs to consider before jumping into something like this. Repair at your own risk.

@terebrate 4 года назад

@5:02 you seem to show some play in the shaft, but later @13:44 there's no play, so did you guys ever determine where that play was originating? Thanks for the whole video, I'm going to do this to my '04 Tacoma this week hopefully.

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

That's a good question and no we didn't determine for sure where that play was coming from. All we know is after doing the tack weld and tilt wheel ball fix, his steering felt tighter.

@terebrate 4 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for reply. I'll report back after I dig into mine and try to fix it. My alignment guy has already said he's sure it's not anything past the floorboard in his department, and thinks it's somewhere between the steering wheel and the bottom of the shaft.

@terebrate 4 года назад

Ok, I did this operation this afternoon, and there was definite (with clicking sound) movement between the shaft sections. Being a hexagonal shaft, I decided to put 3 small welds around it, to be symmetrical. I did not do the plastic shim, because I wanted to feel the difference of just welding the shaft first. I don't think there's any immediate need to insert the shim, but I could do that pretty quickly now if needed. I just now made a donation into your tip jar, thank you!

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

@@terebrate Sounds like the tack weld fix definitely made a difference and that's great. Thanks for the tip and taking the time to comment. We really appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!

@waynes.2983 5 лет назад

Just slide a thin piece of teflon plastic between the two shafts without ever taking anything apart. I did that and it lasts about 16 months before wearing out and then I just do it again. Removes the play & keeps the safety feature working. Takes all of about 4 minutes.

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.

@Ramphonic 5 лет назад

Where do u get the teflon and how did u get up in there to do it?

@justintynan2435 5 лет назад

Would a big hammer and a punch help by adding a few dimples/dents to the outer sleeve of the shaft, if some one didn't want to go the other methods.

@RocanMotor 5 лет назад

Most likely yes but it will likely wear down over time and lead to the same issue.

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

@@RocanMotor I concur.

@justintynan2435 5 лет назад

But it would be a option for people who would want to retain the safety feature of the steering shaft. I am going to on a limb with my past experience with a mk2 golf and plastic in pivoting/rotating areas most people would have issues with the ball in the steering column.

@duperfastEUC 5 лет назад

I also saw that someone fill the hole with window urethane glue and stick the two piece back and it holds well too

@k4rventures_overland 4 года назад

Timmy, I have different question. I have a 5th gen 4runner and since I have this rig and everytime I do a wheel alignment my rig still pull on the left. Yesterday 09/24/2019 I went to the shop and did my wheel alignment and still the same problem. What and how to fix a crooked steering wheel? Do I need to adjust my steering rod or pull off my steering wheel and re-center the steering wheel? I have old man EMU 3" lift and 285 tires. My caster right now are neg 4/3.75.

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

Maybe try a different alignment shop. A good alignment tech can get your steering wheel straight if they make the right adjustments at your outer tie rods. You shouldn't have to make an adjustment at your steering shaft or steering wheel to get your steering wheel straight. You just need to tell the shop doing the work and actually talk directly with the tech doing the alignment that you want the steering wheel straight when the job is done. If they can't figure out how to do this, they're not a good tech and you should ask for someone else to do the alignment or go to a different shop altogether.

@k4rventures_overland 4 года назад

I fixed mine. I played with the driver side tie rod and turned half 4x in. Left pull gone and steering wheel straight. My wheels look like this / ■ \

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

@@k4rventures_overland Good to hear you fixed your issue.

@fourutocone 5 лет назад

I noticed when I was ready to install the shaft into the housing that the steering lock was engaged. I wonder if the assemble would come out smoother if you turned the key to the on position.

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Dale giacoma possibly! Good idea

@fourutocone 5 лет назад

@@TimmyTheToolman Would the 3rd gen Steering wheel fit on an 04 Tacoma it has the leather wrapped..

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Dale giacoma it should fit the rod that it secures to yes, airbags may be different and clock spring connection would be different but simply use the 4runner airbag and maybe move the 4runner clock spring to the Tacoma to make it compatible.

@fourutocone 5 лет назад

@@TimmyTheToolmanGreat when I get a chance I will check into that. Thank you

@brucewayne2773 2 года назад

Hi Timmy, I noticed some steering wheel play on my 02 4Runner and watched your video and got mine done 2 hours later. I did a full bead of weld around mine. There is no more steering wheel play. I checked tie rods, lower ball joints, steering rack bushings all solid. I still feel a little slight wandering around. Do you know the symptoms related to requirement of replacing the end sub-assembly? Have you ever encountered this requiring to replace this oem part? End Sub-Assembly, Steering Rack, No. 2 - Toyota (45504-35031)

@TimmyTheToolman 2 года назад

Not sure this would ever require a replacement, it’s just annoying to have sloppy steering. The OEM part number is pretty pricey too.

@brucewayne2773 2 года назад

@@TimmyTheToolman I ordered one to replace on mine. I will let you know if it makes any difference

@Wajjajagg 5 лет назад

Tighter then a nats ass thats my fave new line to use man thanks! Hahaha

@TimmyTheToolman 5 лет назад

Hey, glad you approve of my lingo. Happy Wrenching!

@ThatSaskSilverado 3 года назад

I have a ram 1500 and it’s the same way what would it be for my 2010? I’ve put $5000 into it and I need this

@TimmyTheToolman 3 года назад

Don't know anything about Dodge rams. Maybe your steering shaft is similar and this mod could work for you.

@gbankson1968 4 года назад

Can I braze the collapsing shaft on each side? No welding machine

@TimmyTheToolman 4 года назад

It would probably work. Or, you could just take your steering shaft to a muffler shop and have a guy put a couple tack welds on for you. They'd probably only charge you $20.