Step By Step Kitchen Engine Rebuild Part 1: The Block 

Using ring end gap to check cylinder taper as well checking ring end gap at top , middle and bottom of cylinder .

Back in tech school almost 25yrs ago , I saw it all from 6 guys manhandling a 4 cylinder in and out of a lifted Datsun , to everything being rebuilt or toyed with in the living rooms of the off campus apartments, you name it it happened. And it hadda be kept low key , we did have inspectors daily and had to keep our rooms clean ,dishes etc so it was a heck of a deal to hide a Ford 9" rear end under your couch. Put a wig and some lipstick on it and putting it in the bed won't work, ask me how I know. Good times.

I had a complete 440 on engine stand in my living room for 5 years

Currently have my 5 speed transmission in my house. When it's 20 below outside I prefer to bring the work indoors.

Brother, you are the 318 encyclopedia of RU-vid. I am very grateful for your content.

I can't remember the last time I saw such 'old school' mechanics but it is absolutely refreshing! Well done sir!

When you have pistons stuck in the block before you destroy them try this (it really works). Get a 2 litre bottle of Coke classic, it has to be coke classic, and pour it in on top of the pistons and let it soak for a day add additional if needled. I told my neighbor to do this because he had tried everything else. He thought I was nuts but what ever. Next day when I got home, he came over and said " don't drink coke ". I asked why. He told me " I let it sit for about 18 hours and thought I would see if it had worked. I bumped the piston with a hammer handle and the piston fell out and hit him on the foot. The rest came out the same way.

Wow, after watching 100's of vidoes on engine building and disassembly I thought I heard everything yet after wathcing your video I leaned so much its unbelievable! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience!!!! What a great reference tool!

Thank you uncle Tony for the generalized block rebuild series. The nuanced info you are providing compliments the info you'd get from an engine rebuild book. Since this is going to be a series, would you consider adding an episode number in the the thumbnail so we can see at a glance that we're watching these vid's in procedural order?

People need to encourage All OldSchoolerzzz to start making videos. We are not getting younger and so much info lost or not practiced much.

I always smooth out oil returns and de-burr the entire block as well as remove any cast flashing too. It's a minimal amount of work for a quality piece when done.

I remember years ago my parents went on vacation and left me home alone. That is when I brought my 170ci slant 6 into the family room and overhauled it. I was never found out.

I went to a "head shop" in Birmingham Al. like back in 1998 with an old inline 6 head i salvaged from a donor motor. (My old one had cracked).I asked them to shave, port and polish it for me. The guy tells me they can shave it but.. They don't "port and polish". And this was a place that exclusively worked on cylinder heads. I wound up taking it to a machine shop that did just about everytning u can think of with metal stuff and they were able to get it done, ready for pickup the next day. It looked like a brand new head. Had some sort of lubricant on it and plastic wrapped.. Lol, it looked so good that I couldnt bring myself to put it on my old greasy engine so i wound up steam cleaning the motor and painted every thing with engine paint including the engine well.. I ended up with an old beat up work van that had the best looking motor and engine bay around lol.

When knocking core plugs out, I was always told to be careful not to hit the cylinders because if you hit them hard enough you can distort the sleeve and put a "dent" in it and ruin the bore job.

I always feel like I've learned something watching UTG

I'll be following religiously as I have my 6.1 Hemi tore down.

Hey Uncle Tony, you can add the videos from this series to an RU-vid playlist, it will be easier to follow up and sometimes the YT algorithm suggests it to viewers so you may get extra viewcount

Still the best channel on RU-vid hands down

Good adive for the new to intermediate guys. But it is always nice to know someone else's take on it!!! You never stop learning!!!

18:00 Haha who's ever torn an engine down, popped out a freeze plug and you find another in the hole 🤣

I'm with you on cam bearings, if they're good leave them alone. However I love a hot tank if the cooling system is real nasty. If you choose to do this however, YOU must wash the hell out of the block yourself, the machine shop will not do a satisfactory job on this. I know U.T. knows this already, just trying to help.my 225 Buick is undergoing a similar rebuild. Thanks Tony!

I see the PB Blaster on your workbench. Check out Project Farms video on penetrating oils. Blaster was less effective than standard WD-40. Liquid Wrench easily came out on top.

Love this series! I’d love to tackle an engine rebuild one day, but am also without a garage. I’m currently rebuilding a transmission and transfer case in my basement though!

Check your LA block for a rebuilt engine tag to see if its already been overbored and to what degree and if the crank has been cut. Always figure all these specs in to your plans.

Tony is doing the world a service in sharing his knowledge. Thank you.

Thanks for this series, UTG. I'm planning to rebuild a tractor engine this spring, so I'm watching and taking notes.

great job!! one add ...it helps to have pad and paper or better yet a cheap little notebook for each engine. Make a lotta notes, check list of what you did like #1 checked left deck, #2 checked left bores, etc. Not so critical at this stage but when you start with the micrometer readings gotta have a table can't tell you how many times I had to remeasure the first time I mic'd a crank

I have always hot tanked the engines I have rebuilt and knock on wood I have never had issues with cam bearings at all

Can't watch now but saved for when I get a sec. Thank

Thanks Tony. Been working on and reading about these engines for 40 years and I still learn something from you .

Love your videos. Absolute real car talk and tricks from the old school.

The legend Tony Defeo will live on, like an italian automotive Nietzsche.

Steve from Annapolis keep up the good work you are outstanding you care about people you're a genius I thought I knew a lot a little trick of the trades you're really good with your hands please keep up the good work not many guys like you and me at there anymore Steve from Annapolis

This should be a great series! Make us proud Tony! 🤘🏼🔧

This video was really good. Will stay tuned for more!

Uncle Tony is the best. I was looking forward to watching the crankshaft video. I think I will have to wait.

Never heard of the light around the rings trick pretty interesting

Tony, your practical knowledge is astounding........thanks!

Great video Uncle Tony!👍 Great camera work Uncle Kathy!👍

I reuse the piston whenever possible too.

This series is gonna be amazing!!!

Fantastic series Tony- looking forward to the rest!

TONEY U HAVED HELPED ME OUT OF A JAM...THANKS

I'm digging this garage series!

Great video can't wait for the next episode

man... I Love this guy!!!

Really psyched your doing this rebuild! I’ll be paying close attention

I swear one day he is going to blow himself up!

Thanx for your advices

Just found this series, and had to say thanks. Takes me way back to rebuilding a Kawasaki 450-4 complete motorcycle from a bunch of milk crates full of parts in an apartment bedroom. The things you do when you're financially challenged.

Good info, thanks for this series. TP

The average youtube viewer at 1 minute: "Wow! This is just what I was looking for!" Minute 5: "Pretty good." Minute 10 listening from kitchen, grabbing some chips: "Okay." Minute 15: "Squirrel!!!"

Great video ! This is the info I’ve been looking for for a while now.

.03 overbore adds 5cid, generally, and .06 adds 10 cid. Its always more about ring seal and ring ridge than displacement or unshrouding a valve.

Always loads of great info here! Thank U! Research engine shops prior to leaving ur engine there. Have had some nightmarish dealings with bad machinist that are betting you won't double check their work prior to re assembly! Some things ok for running errands..but not for high power performance. Let the machinist know what ur planning on building. Typically they can offer a lot of assistance..as long as they know what they're doing that is

Great video Thank you!!!

1967 forged crank 318. Nice!

This is a great series so far. After many “barn rebuilds” I’m already seeing where we’ve wasted money in the past. Let’s get back to the ol’ days where all us gear heads worked on junk in driveways with zero budget.

Definitely good notes for this, especially for my dad who is about to rebuild a 318, hopefully he took notes

Really enjoying this. Thank you.

I have learned so much watching your videos, but I know the great ones, always make things look easy LOL

Great video Tony I never use silicon on core plugs mainly because there was no silicone when I started working on engines and life was good

This is great general info UT. Almost finished a rebuild on a little Vauxhall slant-4 2.0 litre, had to have crank reground and head skimmed. Getting stuff for old GM Vauxhalls over here is a challenge, and they were built here! Wish we could just buy parts off the shelf 😯

Good Stuff, Tony...I learned..,TY

I KNEW that buzzing sound @ 1:10 sounded familiar and sure enough, you reached over and flipped the switch on Mr. Heater! It was a balmy 9 degrees here last night and my 125k btu heater was very happy about that. I run him on diesel.

Great stuff

I love your videos and this one, i wish my school didnt cancel autobody

You're awesome!

I wish I lived closer I would love to give you a hand building that beasts I would love to learn from the master uncle Tony

Good Stuff!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks as always for the free info, Good series to start.. Keep at It . OI OI OI

Imagine if tony dropped 4 or 5 20 min vids in one day. I wouldn't get any work done

You can get the block decked to raise compression you zero the deck to the top of the cylinder that way you are bringing the piston closer to the head to raise compression for the one's who want to raise the compression without changing the pistons or heads

5:54, Thanks for that info.

I remember freeing up a 383 once when I was an early teen ..... mouse milk , maple hearts and a 5lb sledge

When it comes to the crank bore. I look at the wear on the main bearings as I am disassembling the engine. I make sure to keep the bearings in the caps and put them back in place to look at the wear pattern. If you find a spot of wear on the upper bearing it usually indicates that it needs a line hone. If everything looks good then don't touch it.

Right on

I know you mentioned that you know that most Chrysler stuff handles a .060 over, but with sonic checking and some luck you can hog a 318 to the 340 bore (3.91-4.04) at which point 4.04 + 3.58(360 stroke and are made with 318/340 mains) = one nasty small block combo

Good stuff pop

Called out the machine shop so now I gotta say something. When someone brings me an engine, my main deciding factors on what we’re gonna do to it are what the engine needs to run again, the horsepower expectations, and how much money the customer is willing to spend. Just last week I had a 2JZ dropped off that’s gonna make 1,000+hp. I’m gonna make that block absolutely perfect. Also, a 300 I6 Ford that this poor gentleman just wants back in his work truck. I’m gonna do the bare minimum and replace the bare minimum. I’ll note that my bare minimum is higher than the garage build because it’s a professional shop after all, can’t cut corners, but I’m never pushing work that doesn’t need to be done.

Thank you

Thank you guys..I have bought three cars from the 50s. 2 have 302s and one has a 327..I am going to endeavor to build a 302.I have replaced every part of an outside of the motor but never tore one down past the Timing Chain and gears or the heads. Im getting older and looking for an old man hobby so I bought three life size model cars,,,

Sometimes i wish I could work with my crew in a garage where we have good time, work on client cars, make our own project cars, and have fun.. wow..

Nice video. Not every motor has to be a full tilt expense at the machine shop. Good low budget methods.

Love to see you demonstrate truing a head on a marble slab and wet and paper I've done several atv and dirt bike heads it works on a small head but never seen anyone try a large head

You are great Tony. Talk about the rear cam plug, lifter bores, pipe cleaning brushes and all the pipe plugs, high volume oil pump. Is the high volume oil pump needed? More torque on the factory hex shaft. Talk ring clearances, Rod and Main Clearances.

Uncle Tony uses gasoline on an engine like I use Italian dressing on my chicken salad 😆

The gap on that ring is MASSIVE Unfortunately I had one and only one cylinder that was WAY out of round on my 302. Had to go get another block while that was sent off to the machine shop. Pain in the ass. Make sure you double and triple check everything before you go out and get it. If I had used that engine, it would have killed my car if it even ran on that cylinder at all. Watching this channel saved my bacon.

I’m going to try shackletts too.

Just a tip. Go to the Chinese tool store...and get some lights . You need to brighten up your garage/shop a bit. Make for better video quality. Anyway looking forward to this series. NeverMind....my iphone was too dim😳

Since some posters asked and I have my book out to look...check the ID pad by the front of the valley cover on your small block Mope. An "A" at the end means it was overbored .02o at the factory rather than get sent back to the forge. A "B" means mains/rods are .01 inch undersize. An iron cross means crank journals are .001 inch undersize (number 3 counterweight will have an R or M for rod or main). A four sided diamond means the lifter bore is .008 oversize.

Well said

Unk can put that 360 in that looks like a dart with one hand 🧤

I was waiting for the measurement of the ring gap in that old ring to check for taper and such...It had to be an 1/8th".!!..Pretty well worn I'd say Tony...

Tony´s comments are always briljant: "the machine shop have never meet a surface that not needs to be redone" :D

Where's Mr. "Personally I blame squirrels"? I haven't seen him in the comments lately.

I really wish this video had been out when I did the head gasket on my car and a friend's car. While, it is rare for Honda engines to need their decks surfaced, the sanding trick and straight edge would have been a nice way to know the block was truly clean and the deck was good. But, now I know what to do when I take my new to me high compression B18A1 apart to double check everything since it has been sitting for a couple of years now unused and I want to make sure its good.

you can do a ring gap measurement too with a filler gauge to make sure its surely not hourglass shaped.

I've checked blocks the same way. I use a square pane on tempered glass with a full sheet off emery cloth.

Back in the day pistons were knurled after a big honing. Piston sides would be waffled to displace material and increase the OD. While moving the rings around with a feeler gauge check the gap.Measure the top, middle and bottom. If you have 005 difference between you should consider how rich you are. Rod angularity may cause more wear in the center.