I just had to replace a starter on the exact same car. I've been tinkering with cars for the better part of fifty years. And there is no way I could have completed this without your video it was fantastic
This is THE best car video I’ve ever seen on any car repair tutorial ever. I’ve been doing my own repairs on my cars for about a decade now, and you sir, are amazing. Thank you very much for the video! 😀🙏🎉
Miguel, I feel like you're my lost twin with all the things you've repair! TSX struts, TSX starter, kids' trampoline, computer keyboard, and you've recently turned 40! Keep up the great work! They're very detailed and great information. Thank you.
That's awesome, finally I get to have a twin! haha! I have fun with all these hobbies. It's an escape from what I went to school for. I have a master's degree in social work and work part time as a mental health therapist. I have many more vids to come.
Great video…highly detailed, specific instructions. I love my ‘06 TSX so much that I wouldn’t attempt to do this starter replacement myself! I might screw it up! I’ll buy a new one on Rock Auto and pay a competent mechanic - after showing him this video. This guy clearly knows what he’s doing.
Just successfully finished this task this morning. Thank you for the detailed and very thorough step by step video. I was hesitant at first because I haven't worked on a compact car before but since you broke everything up into sections I took it one task at a time and everything turned out great!
Just did this but i purchased the OEM starter cause i never want to replace it again. My tsx has 250k miles and still a little beast. Thanks for the video 🍻
That's awesome! It's a heck of a job! I don't blame you for going with an OEM starter. I would too if I had the money. I plan to rebuild my OEM starter that failed, I have never done it but I will learn somehow, hehe.
Thank you, DIY mom of 5 trying to change my heater pipe which is not related and needed this to see how to get the manifold off, thanks for the diagrams and detailed explanation!
This video is everything!! Thank you so much for making such a detailed video!! I have no mechanical experience except growing up a mechanic's daughter and having the tools and I am pretty dang confident I can complete this job entirely on my own cause of your video. I am even doing the throttle bottle bypass and I love that you already had a question and answered with links for bleeding the coolant system. 🙌
Thank you for the kind words! I appreciate the knowledge other youtubers share so I don't mind promoting others' videos. Good luck working on your car!
Haha! Yeah, I've seen videos where ppl do that (say "now put it all back together") so I figured here's my chance to say it too. I was considering ending the video, but nah, I can't do that to my fellow DIYers out there.
Thank you so much for this. For that bottom bolt from hell,I removed the radiator fan, and had plenty of room to stick an extension under the rad hose. I mean it still was awful but 😂
Miguel- The thicker cable in the wire harness from the starter to positive battery terminal burned/melted while driving. The starter was exchanged under lifetime warranty (NAPA). They saw the melted terminal and didn't even bother to test it. I removed the wire harness and disassembled to check for exposed/damaged wires but it seems good. I have the OEM harness on order. As this was the only wire that burned, is it most likely that the starter solenoid went bad (stuck on on) causing the melted wire? Do I need to check for shorts in other areas other than this wire harness? Thanks in advance!
Sounds like you're in good hands with the replacement starter and the oem harness. If the car doesn't start with the new starter and harness, then check the fuse for the starter. Sometimes an electrical part that shorts out will also kill your fuse.
@@ChavezDIY Back in action! The new starter sub wire harness was overdue. The original harness had a splice kit near the battert post and I'm guessing it probably had corrosion hiding underneath the wire insulation.
Thanks! Cooling system bleeding is a video I plan to do but have not done it yet. Here's a decent video that covers the procedure ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JEv8bC4S6UI.html set the front of the car on jack stands, open radiator cap and fill radiator with coolant, either buy a spill free funnel amzn.to/3fJ3ioJ or DIY one, I used a dollar tree funnel, put the funnel on the radiator opening, then squeeze the upper radiator hose a bit to let some air out, add a little extra coolant so it rises above the radiator opening neck. Go inside the car turn on the car, set the heater to high and fans to low, press on the gas pedal until the engine heats up to normal operating temp (youll hear the radiator fan come on), it may take up to 15-20mins at 1500 rpm, while the car is running take a peek in the funnel and add more coolant if needed, you're done, turn off your engine, top off the radiator and fill the coolant reservoir between the low and high mark. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@ChavezDIY to avoid having to bleed the cooling system, i decided to go ahead and remove the throttle bottle. do you have any advice for removing the paper gasket that seems to be adhered to the throttle bottle surface?
@@robertocolon4062 The gasket is made out of paper so it will tear when you remove the throttle body. The paper that's left can be removed by scraping it off, I used a razor blade and a painters putty knife to scrape it off. Alcohol will also help to release the adhesive.
Thanks for the feedback! I have more videos planned. It's been challenging to make videos during the pandemic because I help my son with his virtual learning every day. I believe here in CA all schools will fully reopen in the fall this year. Can't wait 😆
Notice your coolant plastic Reservoir on the driver side where the bolt threads to has been cut. Is it because the bolt was not able to be taken out? Mine is spinning but won't come out. Just wondering how you were able to take the bolt out. I don't want to cut it out if I don't have too.
Good eye! Yes, that bolt was seized and kept spinning around so I cut the plastic with a utility knife so I can get it out. While it doesn't look nice, the bolt is fully functional and lubricated to prevent seizing. If you really wanted to keep it nice looking you can look for a replacement reservoir at a salvage yard or get a knock off online.
@@ChavezDIY I just came back from a you pick it place and couldn't find any. I'm going to try your method and if it doesn't work I'll order a aftermarket one. I did want to ask if you have ever experienced the rattling or grinding noise when you cold start your tsx. Mine is making that noise once in a while and only when it's been sitting over night or cold. I'm hoping it isn't the vtc actuator. Any suggestions?
@@KnKn-rr9ri I have not experienced the rattling or grinding noise when cold starting the engine. VTC actuator was one of the things I thought about. ChrisFix did a video on a similar problem: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F_tLYzlpldM.html
the sensor at 4:38 is refusing to disconnect.. argghh.. i can see the tab i need to hold down, but it still won't budge when i press it and pull. was it very easy for you? it looks like you accessed this sensor from underneath the car - must be easier to view from there than from the top :(
The first time was the most difficult. When you press in the tab, try wiggling it up and down and forward and back until it comes out. I didn't access it from underneath, but you can try from below. You can try using some needle nose pliers to ensure you are pressing the tab enough to release it.
Are you referring to 4:41 in the video? Pinch that rectangular tab towards the wires. When it is clipped on the manifold, you will pinch it towards the front of the car and then slide it out.
It's the OEM Service Manual for 2004-2005 Acura TSX. Cost me about $90 on eBay but its been worth every penny. Haynes and Chiltons don't have a repair manual for this car so I had no choice but to buy the OEM manual.
Hi miguel. I have a question about the valves of my car. it sounds loud. and the cold car runs well. but as it heats up it loses strength. You think you know I can have Thank you
Have you done a valve lash adjustment on your car? When the valves are loose you will hear them. When the valves are too tight you will smell them. Eric The Car Guy says its better to hear them than to smell them. It's a good idea to adjust the valves about every 100k miles. As a car ages some issues will arise from more than one problem so the loss of strength could be many things. The most important maintenance on a car is the oil and oil filter change. I change my oil every 6k mi or 6 months, whichever comes first, and I always use the same oil, Mobil 1 synthetic with a Mobil1 oil filter.
what could cause the starter to be stuck and not come out even after taking out every single bolt and all? I'm positive I've got it all removed but the starter isn't even wiggling! the only thing I did diff was take the bolt off under the intake manifold instead of the bracket bolt.
Are you referring to the intake manifold or the starter? Were you able to get it out? If you have removed all the bolts it may just be seized, try to hit it with a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer.
@@ChavezDIY I'm talking about the starter. it is seized to the bellhousing. I've heated it with a butane soldering iron around the seam where they meet, took a pry bar and tried pulling from underneath, even took a hammer and chisel to the seam. I've constantly put penetrating oil there as well. oh yeah I even put both mounting bolts back in a little and jumped the starter straight from the battery that way, hoping maybe it'd come out after that but still stuck as can be!! I'm out of ideas at this point except for trying to manually turn the crankshaft &/or disassembling the freakn transmission. neither of those are things I could do on my own and after having came this far doing everything with no help, I'd like to be able to say I did it all myself. it just makes no sense what could be causing the stupid thing to be stuck like it is!?!
@@heatherrhodge2588 Oh that sucks! Thanks for clarifying, you’ve put in quite a bit of work already. If you want to turn the crankshaft manually you can turn it at the crank pulley, its just a 19mm socket, turn it clockwise. The iron wont work as good as a heat gun or a propane torch. I did a search and someone had seized starter on a corolla and took it to a shop and mentioned this “They were finally able to remove the old starter by jamming a piece of wood between the starter and the bell housing, and then hammering on the wood. They said it was important that the impact force be exactly perpendicular to the starter face. I'm told the trick was to apply force perpendicular to the face so that the starter is forced STRAIGHT back from the bell housing”
@@ChavezDIY ok, well sounds like that's about the only choice I've got left at this point! I've watched videos of ppl trying to turn the crankshaft bolt and even with a special tool every video I saw ppl had massive trouble with that bolt. also it looks like I'd have to take the wheel off just to access the crankshaft. my car is an 05 Acura TSX. actually it just hit me that the videos were of ppl trying to REMOVE the bolt, not just turn it. maybe I can reach from the top with a couple extensions. I'll do more homework to figure out which bolt it actually is since all the videos showed it from the wheel well and I'm not looking from that angle. so it should be fairly easy to turn? I've got the intake manifold off and numerous sensors unplugged.. is it ok to try turning it with my car disassembled like that? I'm trying to imagine how that garage was able to get a piece of wood against the starter in a way that would produce a straight out force. obv the Corolla had a diff setup bc mine doesn't seem to have any spot that would hold the wood in place and allow perpendicular force!? there's no solenoid on my starter and obv no "seam" where it meets the bellhousing since I can't even get a craft knife to even start to go into it! I don't have a heat gun or propane torch. the closest I had was the 3 in 1 butane soldering iron and also tried a huge butane lighter that can produce a blue flame. I know neither is comparable to a propane torch, of course. I actually saw an article in a forum about that guy who ended up getting the dealer to get his off and how he said they used a wedge of wood. I'm glad you clarified for me tho bc I wasn't sure what they meant by perpendicular to the "face". I was thinking, "is the face the "nose" of it or the part that's opened where you can see the Bendix". I truly appreciate your replies and your time helping offer some solutions!
The removal of the Honda crankshaft bolt is notorious for being difficult to remove, But yeah you don’t have to remove it, you just have to turn it (clockwise). If you want to access the crankshaft bolt, yes you need to remove the wheel. Its really difficult to access the crank bolt from the top. The other option is using a wrench and turn the power steering pulley clockwise. Turning the power steering pulley will force drivebelt to spin and turn the crankshaft too. I learned that from EricTheCarGuy. Yes, you can turn the crank pulley manually with all the intake stuff removed I was trying to imagine where to put a piece of wood on the starter to bang it back out, but I couldn’t figure it out. Another idea is clamping a large vise grip pliers on the starter and hit the pliers to back out the starter, but that might not cut it either. It seems like the people that have been successful are focused on hitting the starter away from the bell housing. There’s gotta be a way to get that darn thing off. Its like a brain teaser puzzle.
This is for the first generation TSX 2004-2008. I believe it should be the same for the second generation TSX too (2009-2014). Might also be helpful on other cars that use the K24 Honda engine.
Tambien uno de los mios estaba barrido. A las 4:08 en el video, se mira donde le hice una cortada a el plastico para poder sacar el deposito. Lo corte con una navaja.
The bypass mod has two purposes: 1) decrease the temperature of the throttle body and 2) make it easier to remove and clean the throttle body. The purpose of the coolant lines that go into the throttle body is to keep the throttle body from freezing in cold temperatures. As the coolant warms up, it also warms up the throttle body. When you open those coolant lines at the throttle body, you introduce air into the system and you'll have to bleed the air from the cooling system. If you do the bypass mod, you can remove the throttle body and clean it from all sides without having to worry about bleeding the cooling system. I also use the "thermal throttle body gasket" in place of the OEM paper gasket so I don't have to deal with scraping off the paper that's left on the mating surfaces. If you live where it snows, don't do the mod. I live in southern California so I don't need my throttle body to be warmed up.
Excellent video!! I have watched a couple of other videos regarding the starter. Yours is very detailed. Although I probably have the skill to do this, I am going to let my local mechanic take care of it. There are not enough hours in a day right now!! I appreciate the time you took to video this!
