Stick shift two step rev limiter… do it the right way!! 

Thanks for watching!!

I’m glad you found it helpful, thanks for the feedback!!

@@redfoxgarage9660 who built your aode? I didn't have good luck when my car had aod, burned up twice on me!

I bought it used so I don’t know about all of the internals. It has a PA full manual valve body with a Transbrake. I know that AODs are pretty sensitive to TV cable adjustments. I used to run a regular AOD with a non lockup edge converter and a lentech valve body. The internals were all stock and it had probably 100 10 second passes on it. It never did fail or give me any trouble, I just went to a manual and sold all of the good parts from the AOD.

@@redfoxgarage9660 yeah, I had the pressure set correctly with the gauge on the port, mine must not have been built properly or something.

sounds like bad luck, how much power were you making?

You can do exactly what you said, but then you are bound to your launch rpm for your burnout. If that rpm is high enough you’d be good to go. On my car I actually had 2 momentary buttons and 2 relays. One would only engage the line lock, which requires using a diode to prevent power feeding back to your 2 step trigger. this button was not latching and needed to be held until I wanted the line lock to release. The other button and relay was wired exactly as you are saying. This gave me the ability to engage just the line lock with one button and engage the two step and line lock with the other button. Thanks for watching and commenting!!

Your momentary switch is wired ground to ground? So every time you engage your clutch it “makes”. But won’t activate the 2- step unless the momentary switch is pressed. If that is correct then if I hooked up ground to activate my line lock it would activate every time the clutch was engaged. In that case I would have to have another relay, 2nd toggle and that diode. As you said. I am just wanting to verify as I am in my 3rd schematic on paper trying to figure it out. My ms3 is currently wired into a negative activating pin. If I change it to my positive activating pin I think it resolves all my issues.

I think my last reply may have misled you. I had a schematic drawn up that may help if I can post it. I'll try to dig it up and add it to the description. Until then maybe this will help: -clutch switch provides ground when the clutch is in -momentary switch 1 is 12 volts -As long as the clutch is in, once the momentary switch 1 is pushed it will latch until the clutch is released - The output of the relay can provide 12 volts to your 2 step and your line lock, but your 2 step will be engaged whenever you are using your line lock( during burnout) -You can add a second momentary switch and relay that provide 12 volts only to the line lock, but you have to add a diode to keep it from feeding back to the two step. I will look for my schematic tomorrow and post it if I can find it.

it goes through at the very end of the clutch fork, just past the bolt.

@redfoxgarage9660 OK ty very much. The switch you posted from Amazon. Is it a 12v or does it not matter if it's more? Thx

Glad to help. The one I posted was more than 12v, but it won’t hurt anything.

@redfoxgarage9660 yea saw that are like 250v. Just wanted to make sure. Thx so much. for vid.