Spent my day off changing breaks and was disappointed to have stuck calipers. This makes so much sense. Let me make that half hour drive back to my truck and make it happen
You are a life saver just got the pickup back from dealership they could not find the problem with the caliper sticking I googled this and selected this because of the title sent video to my son he went right out and was able to fix in 5 min. He is going to call mechanic and tell him so if someone else has this problem it will save them from what we went thru thanks so much for your video
I know it is too late for a response being a 1-year-old thread, but for future DIY freaks, here is an insight. I had a confounding problem with my Chevy Cruze Diesel for more than 6 months when the calipers would not release after lifting the foot off the brake pedal once it got to high temperatures. The brake assembly used to be serviced the usual way at the authorized service centre by greasing the slide pins with appropriate grease from many different brands, but to no avail. The mechanic then felt it was the synthetic brake cylinder seal, but that too was not the culprit. I then decided to do a DIY of the problem and found out that the caliper pins were not the problem at all and neither was the piston rubber seal. The actual issue was with the front disc brake alloy pistons of the brake caliper assembly. Do not ask me why but the composition of the piston used in the Cruze Diesel in Bhaarath (India) was suspect as it enlarged minutely over time (it was not the brake cylinder rusting); I sanded it down and then cleaned it thoroughly and put back the assembly, and it has been a smooth ride ever since. Fuel efficiency too has gone up from 9kmpl to 14kmpl as there was severe drag from the brakes. Acceleration too has gone up by leaps and bounds. In my particular case, the piston was the culprit and not the sliding caliper pins, brake cylinder or the brake cylinder synthetic seal.
My brakes driver side tire was hot and I did not realize I had put to much fluid in the reservoir until I seen this video I took a turkey baster and extracted some of the fluid out now the car is running smoothly and the brakes are not hot.... Thanks so much for posting this video you are helping so many people God bless you...
@@lilflame69 yes it was and just the driver side tire was hot and smoking I also took out the caliper guide pins and boots and installed new ones as the heat...expanded the old boots and greased them because water had gotten in...
I can’t thank you enough for this video mate!! I wondered why my front right caliper (closest to the master cylinder) was sticking on but the piston was pushing back really easily with the cap off. Now it seems the engine brake effect feels back to normal, mpg is much better and the power feels normal again. It was like driving with the handbrake half on this morning. After a test drive once I’d removed some fluid, it seems that I’ve sorted the problem thanks to you 🙏 Cheers, Ian
i bought a used car that drove perfectly and seemed fine. To get road worthy they had to replace the brake pads. When i got it it seemed like the brakes were stuck down for a second or 2 after i release the brake pedal. This explains everything. thank you
Thank you this saved me a massive headache. Just did this brake job on my wife’s car and this issue occurred . But opening the cap and pumping the brake to fill that gap worked out just fine , no need to mess with the brakes again. I can’t thank you enough, Thomas! You have my sub and I’m sharing this video to my buddies
I'm having this exact problem right now after changing pads and rotors, my rear driver side is sticking. Do I need to remove wheel, remove pads, and pump the brakes? What exactly do I do?
Brillient and so simple! I had exactly this problem and could not understand why one side was perfect and the other side was over heating and the pads were worn down on one side only. SO important to check fluid level when changing pads. P.S. the garage that I bought the car from had done the brakes and filled the tank right to the top!!!
Awesome video. I changed out the front calipers to prevent and break down. The front left caliper stuck and we were stuck on the side of the road. Called a tow truck. Thankfully the tow truck to hours to come. I fixed the brake by bleeding the brake and removed some brake fluid. We got back home. Great video! Thanks!
This is one of the most sensible diagnosis I've seen. I myself had slightly sticking calipers which I deduced from the fact that when I freely rotate the front wheels (Car jacked up), I hear the brakes squealing against the brake disc and therefore the wheel did not rotate freely. I actually did the same mistake of pushing the caliper piston back in to accommodate for newer set of brake pads but I didn't drain out the extra brake oil from the reservoir and hence it was also above the MAX level. Thanks to you my issue has been resolved and I was actually getting a wobbly steering because of that at low speeds. SUBSCRIBED !!!
This totally passed my mind thanks a lot for this information. I hope this fixes my problem but if it don’t I will still keep this in mind when I’m changing brakes. Thanks
Great vid, helped me solve my issue. My piston had gotten stuck. Popping the bleed valve helped getting going again so i could fully retract it for new brakes. Original brakes on there for 130k miles, which meant the rotor was trashed too.
I'm about to go on my jollies and fitted new pads and the brakes were binding very slightly, I put some kitchen towel in the brake fluid reservoir and took some fluid out, voila job done. Great advice. Thank you.
Had me pads n discs changed , a few days later first thing in morning , pulled away and it made a big clonking noise , watched your vid and saw the reservoir full to the top , done like you said ....fingers crossed .
Great help. Never thought of it that way. -i just a quick bleeding on my can am defender but them over filled the brake fluid and the pedal started to be a bit sticky on hard braking. Lowered the fluid to max & all is well. - my hot rod was hard to push when it was in neutral. I open and close the brake bleeding nipple and all is well till i push the brake pedal and it does it again. I flushed out all the brake fluid and refilled with new & bleed the system and all is perfect.
FANTASTIC!!! Many, many thanks!!! I had all 4 rotors changed out together with new pads and I get sometimes one of the rear calipers stuck, overheating rotor and wheel... Now I see my fluid reservoir filled up to the cap, to the very top of it! I gonna drain it down! Again, many, many thanks! I just hope it hasnt damaged the new rotors as well...
Very easily understood. I'm having this issue but don't know if this is the cause. Makes alot of sense tho. I'm no mechanic but it's these videos that help joe shmoes like myself learn a thing or two. Thanks man.
This is a great piece of info. My right rear caliper piston makes so much noise like the pads are dragging on the rotor. I have to remove some fluid from the reservoir to see if that works... UPDATE: This did not work for me. Back to the drawing board now...!!
@@lilflame69 Fixed it.. Piston seals were never leaking fluid. Removed the seal surrounding the piston and found the piston had a chip torn off of it so I just replaced the entire caliper and it solved the problem. I think air was getting into lines thru that chipped piston.
I always pop cap to verify proper fluid level after installing pads. Fluid needs to be changed on a regular basis. Check the owners manual on frequency.
This is an issue if _all_ the calipers are sticking. Easy to check, but if you go on a drive and use the brakes a few times you should be able to feel by hand if they are rubbing because of the heat. If it’s all of them and the level is good your master cylinder may have a problem or vacuum issue. If it’s just one you may have a different issue like a stuck caliper pin, clogged brake line, or stuck piston.
Most common problem for sticking pads is failure to properly lube and clean the back side of the pad clip guides and caliper bushings & pins with silicone brake lubricant when installing new pads. Don't overlook this. And bleed the breaks completely every 50,000k or 5 years due to condensations contamination to avoid leaky seals. I know, it is a closed system... but will definitely see the difference in old dirty fluid after time has past.
I can't thank you enough for your input on this video because I did exactly what you just said you're not supposed to do lol so I guess now I have to drain a little bit of brake fluid to compensate for that pressure?
I can't understand all the positive comments, that's just not how brakes work - the amount of fluid in the reservoir makes no difference! (obviously you shouldn't run out or anything though)
If you think the amount of Fluid in a Break reservoir Doesn't make A difference. I am surprised you are smart enough to breathe air... But then again, I've heard smarter.Things come from a Sack of clams.
I may check this. As I took my 2021 Tacoma to Toyota to replace the brakes. And the issue I'm having is the front brakes are sticking but only when the vehicle has sit in park for a few days. I've had to rock the truck from Drive to Reverse and back until the brakes broke free. Took a bit more effort for the passenger side to break free. Then when driving on the road it's fine. No pulling to either side when applying the brakes. And no grinding or scrubbing sounds either. The brakes work properly. Then when I park it over night and get back into the truck the next day, same situation. Both front brakes are stuck and I have to Reverse/Drive a few times to free them up. Just odd. And the truck is still newer and only 60k miles so hoping dirt or something maybe causing it. Or like the video showed maybe they added brake fluid before they completed replacing the pads and now too much pressure.
Definitely makes sense. Just did my rear brakes. Had to push pistons all the way in. Now front left brake is sticking. Gotta be the fluid level ima check now thanks !
Hey a faulty flex hose will cause your caliber to stick too. It happened to me. Never heard of that before but it ballooned out inside and caused a blockage. Pretty wild but it will cause a stuck caliber
Ok. So putting new rotors and brakes on my truck, after I tighten my calipers, the rotor does not want to spin. I thought it might be a warped rotor, but after close examination it seems to be just fine. Loosen the caliper bolts and it spins freely. Any suggestions?
This doesn’t make any sense. The fluid level will be maximum with new brakes that will be retracted. When you press the brakes the fluid level will go DOWN
Is this the grinding I’m hearing while I drive?!?. I was thinking maybe the parking break was somehow on enough to cause a rub not not enough to turn the “parking break” light on.
Bought a car today where the right front caliper is sticky. Did see they put in new pads and changed the wheel bearing. I am guessing someone did not know what they were doing. Fluid is at its max in the reservoir. Gonna bleed the brake caliper a bit tomorrow to see if this is the problem or if its the brake hose that is bad...
hoping this is my issue as i had a ton of fluid but drained most excess out. I never checked again after pumping brakes and my front right seems to be dragging, hoping its just that!
So then is this possible to happen to only one caliper?? I drive a 03 Tahoe and my back passenger side caliper has had issues ever since I got new rims and tires on my truck. It always seems that that specific rotor is always chewed up looking and constantly needs pads
Rubio.: a stuck brake piston caliper probably won't cause intermittent jerking. They tend to remain activated one way or the other, usually extended and won't retract. This burns up your brake pad and rotor and can cause a fire if left unchecked.
Hey, I have a question. When you say drain out what you don't want, do you mean bleeding at least that caliper or simply get the extra fluid from the master cilinder. Thank for this video.
My rear brake is locking up, before we did the brakes on it the emergency brake was disconnected. we reconnected the emergency brake and now the brakes are locking up. What could be the problem??
01:42 Actually, you are supposed to take the cap off the reservoir before pressing the piston back in. If this was done, this issue would’ve been avoided as one would have hopefully noted it was overflowing past the full line. Which, if they didn’t notice that, they shouldn’t be touching a car’s brake system.
I changed the front brakes on my 05 envoy, I had to press the caliber back obviously. Well afterwards I had no brake pressure at all but there was plenty of fluid. SO I bled the brakes, now all is good but there's 1 brake that presses too hard turning the truck when I brake and sticks for a few minutes after accelerating again. Once it releases it feels like the truck is throwing me into the other lane which at times is oncoming traffic. How do I fix this issue?
