I used to work at a Stihl dealer. We had a customer that had a BR600 backpack blower. Was only a month old or so. He said he had it full tilt and it just stopped. Said it damn near jumped off his back. Took it apart and found a broken valve stuck in the top of the piston. It got a new short block under warranty.
Strange. Did he modify the blower attachment at all? Most cases I've heard so far of this happening have to do with engine over speed, but I haven't heard a valve breaking before.
A friends VW Beetle did the same. The valve had flats on the edges where it got hammered between piston and head then turned another 90 degrees and was "growing" out of the top of the piston like a mushroom.
NEVER HOLD THE CRANK BY THE FLYWHEEL!!! You can easily sheer the key off the flywheel and then your replacing the flywheel. I've seen it happen multiple times. Put a rope in the cylinder. It's easy and it's not going to damage anything.
Stihl makes a piston stop tool for these it’s only $20. I can’t believe all these “professionals” resort to these bs methods instead of just buying the tool.
It's because us "professionals" have used those stupid tools and they are a pain in the ass. These other bs methods are way easier, and just as quick, if not quicker, and as "professionals" we like to make our jobs as quick and pain in the ass-less as possible. I have broken those tool off inside the piston. Talk about pain in the ass. Never again; "bs" methods for me thanks.
Any tips on a fs90r fuel system has been rework and starts idles fine but will not throttle up and dosent respond to high speed adjustment, or choke ,hold wide open and barely rev past idle , I read alot of articles where people replaced coil due to it being stuck on retard and not advancing up so I tried that and runs the same, checked valve adjustment at tdc with stihl feeler gauge . Help ?
@@austinmccutcheon3270 update ,on one the plastic camshaft was worn out cause valves not to open enough, and on another the steel pin that passes through cam into block was loose in the hole on block ,in that situation bad block not feasibly repairable
Daniel Hutchinson thank you so much for responding! I opened up my cam cover. Pins look good. The plastic cam must be worn as you mentioned. Did you have to replace the push rods or anything?
@@austinmccutcheon3270 no problem !, the lobe part of cam on this one was very visibly worn , other than both crankshaft seals I replace ,reused everything else. The other non fixable I had ,the pin looked alright but the receiving hole in block was elongated
Turning that arrow to that screw doesn't guarantee top dead center. Turn the wheel a bit more the valves should not move, if they do spin the wheel one more rotation.
Hi I enjoy your videos very informative and easy to follow. i have a fs110 and I can not get the valve timing right it will start with the choke and rev take off the choke cut out carburettor new brand
Hey young man; Very helpful! Could this be a tell tale symptom? I have a fs130 bought new yrs ago and It has been put thru a lot. It seemed to be getting weaker and would die out after an hour of use. I was getting more resistance on the pull to start. I thought I should check valve adj. Found a cpl vids and yours. There was no play in valves at top dead. I adjusted following your lead using the Stihl Flr gauge. I almost cannot pull hard enough to turn engine. So I slowly started to tighten valves (each one a bit) till I could again using pull rope turn engine, she still wont start and at that point no clearance in either valve at top dead cntr. Going to pull apart today and I'm guessing I'll find a worn cam gear. I'll post what I find. Best; Tom
Well; Opened up; cam gear, lobe and P rods look good. So on to next thought. It almost is like vapor lock. Going back to original when she was running and quit on me. She was not operating at good performance, weak and bogged down. She would turn over with pull rope. Opened cap and check valve clearance - None.
I have a fs100rx that is the same way. Repair shop said it was a cam bearing but not worth fixing. I plan to tear into it as I will only be out of my time.
@@philliphaessig; The shop said Cam bearing, A reach I think. I closely looked at crank rotation, it does look out of true. Think I'm gonna have to shell out the big bucks for new one.
Tom...are you sure that you are at top dead center? If you place a Phillips in your plug hole you can rotate back and forth to find tdc... have you looked through your muffler to see that you don’t have carbon? Several washes of 2+2 down the plug hole will remove carbon from your rings and ring groove... then a liberal squirt of 2 stroke down the plug hole to throughly lube cylinder prior to ignition...? Sounds like you are 180 out of tdc???
It’s a 4 stroke mate, so you sure your on correct stroke tdc. There 2 tdc’s, you want compression stroke when both valves are closed. What your describing sounds exactly like you’ve adjusted clearances in wrong tdc stroke if you had no clearance to start off with. Amazes me the amount of idiots doing ‘tutorials’ with out knowing what they are doing.x
