I had the same issue with the roller. Sanded a little from either side and it was good to go. Take a measurement between the dogs now and make sure that’s where you end up after the roller is on. If you’re any wider, it’s applying force which will cause your bar nuts to loosen while cutting.
Nice upgrades and cuttin!!! The 462 ripped through it easy. Did you get a smaller chain catcher? I was hoping you tried out the 32 and how it compared to the 25. Expect there would be some dropoff on the 462.
Thank you. No I didn’t get another chain catcher as the saw already has one from the factory. The 32 bar is very helpful on big wood but it definitely slows down the saw compared to the 25. Anything over 26 inches the 32 inch bar is the way to go.
If after you roll the saw over the top you reposition the saw’s bumper spikes further down on the off side and continue cutting, before going down from the top, you’ll be able to cut it all from one side. That technique is particularly useful on uneven ground so you can stay on the high side-don’t want the log to roll toward you! Among others I’ve got a 461 with 25” and 36” bars. Great saw!
@@FirewoodontheHill I'd say that from the cutting perspective they are comparable. The 462 benefits from being a bit lighter than the 461 but not enough to make me buy another 46x saw.... The M-tronic of the 462 is appealing to some folks but I've not found a need for it. This as my cutting is generally done under 1,000 feet above sea level, I run non-ethanal fuel with synthetic mix oil, I keep the saw clean, and I replace any parts that are damaged or worn from use. From what I see going into the saw shop where my son works I dare say that my equipment is meticulously maintained!
I usually stand the splitter up in vertical position and split it into quarters but I got a new splitting axe that I’m going to try. It might be easier than wrestling those big logs.
