Saw arrived yesterday ru-vid.comUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and today I cut about 3/4 cord of wood with it. Make sure you get an extension chord that is at least 12 gauge wire, minimum. This is my first electric in about 10 years, and things sure have improved. The self-sharpener works great, and it just kept cutting through some pretty decent logs. Wear your eye protection, and ear protection. Excellent saw.
I have an old Stihl 026 that I rebuilt. B4 the rebuild it was horrible to start! Now just put on full choke(lever all the way down) and it usually starts in about 4-5 pulls. Then I hit trigger and switch goes to half choke/run and let it sit and warm up a minute and it’s ready!
Finally a video where someone explains and warns about the chain spinning at half choke/warm start and the need to press the throttle slightly to put it into idle before releasing the chain brake. If you do not slightly press the throttle (shifts into normal idle) before releasing the chain brake the chain runs like a scalded dog and is dangerous as hell. No video on the stihl site addresses this issue nor says anything about that.
A good instructional video that covers all points about the full choke and half-choke and how to manipulate the switch. The best video yet I've seen on starting this chainsaw. I am 75 y/o and it is no fun pulling, and pulling and pulling without even a sputter. Thanks for the video.
I have an MS361. It has always been difficult to start. It will flood more easily than any previous saw I've owned. Once running it's a beast. I foolishly let it set up for about 3 years. I cleaned the carburetor with no luck. I went ahead and replaced the fuel line with new fuel filter, installed a new carburetor, installed a new properly gapped NGK plug that was getting spark. I pulled and inspected the impulse line. Finally gave up and took it in for repair. The repairman who was built like a gorilla immediately poured out my new 50:1 TruFuel because he thought 'pink fuel was bad'. He threw in some regular gas station fuel with oil saying TruFuel would make the saw run hot (it runs great in my Echo 2-cycle engines). He got it to run after 10 - 12 throwing pull starts which I know can damage the starting mechanism. He also fully revved up the engine right after cold starting it which can damage the motor. Nevertheless I didn't say anything about his starting technique because I felt like an idiot. I get the saw home and flooded it again which was my fault. I'm going to leave the mechanic's ethanol fuel in the saw until I get it started because going back to TruFuel may require a slight carburetor adjustment. I just have one dead pine tree I desperately need to drop which won't take long. I'm a pretty determined fella so I'm not giving up on it. The one thing I like about Stihl saws are they are very easy to work on.
You didn't give it time to warm up . You should always wait 1 minute for it to warm up before reving it up or using it . The engine could have a cold seizure otherwise. The heat from exhaust and chain clutch warms up the piston and it expands faster than the cylinder wall and causes scoring. Overtime this cause the engine to lose compression and performance. I am a mechanic and service heavy equipment and small engines. I've seen cold seizures In cars trucks tractors and the most frequent cold seizures occur in chainsaws all makes and models too.
@vestige I am factory trained by stihl Briggs and Stratton and johndeere. I worked for a few dealerships I mostly worked at johndeere dealerships that sold power equipment I was the head mechanic for the lawn and power equipment departments . Since then I have been farming and doing mechanic for myself and others .I learned about small engines by being an apprentice during high school working my way from lawnmowers to full sized farm equipment. I grew up farming on a large grain farm we farm over 8000 acres and I learned mechanics overtime . I have certifications for stihl and Briggs and Stratton and johndeere for engines and drivetrains I keep up to date on their changes as well.
@vestige the class I took was ag mechanics and power equipment. We learned how to work on anything from mower to a tractor. I basically worked on mowers then tractors. Being a farmer I was able to work on all types of machines. I then went on to a johndeere program called power up . Where you work at a dealership and take classes at the same time . You would take 2 weeks of classes then work 2 weeks doing the same work you learned . I did 18 months of that . Since then I attend classes from johndeere to keep up with the new technology every couple of months . I rebuilt johndeere and case combines during the winter as a side business. I still work on mowers and chainsaws on the side as well . I spent 6 years working for dealerships before I went off on my own .
@vestige it didn't take 6 years actually more like 2 in a half or 3 but I still go to training offered by johndeere case and stihl to keep up with the technology. I spent 2 years during high school in a ag mechanic class at the career center for my county. I then went to the johndeere power up program at Owen's community college in ohio for 18 months . The problem is you had to be sponsored or recommended by a dealership to get into but it is still a great program to get into . They might have changed the process since then it was in 2013 when I attended. I am 27 years old and I farm and do mechanic work for other farms . I've worked at a couple of dealerships and even at a large factory doing industrial maintenance while I was in college but I found that I rather work for myself and for neighbors rather than dealerships. The problem with dealerships is that they work you long hours and pay you next to nothing . I can farm and mechanic during the summer and then mechanic during the winter on larger projects and make way more than at a dealership. Once you establish a customer base they will refer you to others and pretty soon you will be swamped with work .
I have a MS 271 Farm Boss that was purchased new in 2021. This unit has only 3 or 4 tanks of fuel run through it. Every time I want to use it, I have a hard time getting it to start. I had it back to the dealer to be told it was flooded. That was 13-14 months ago. The saw has been sitting only 2 to 3 months since last used. It would not start. I pulled the plug to find a no name plug in place, so I replaced it with a Bosh plug making sure it was gapped to speck. (0.020) Folling the recommended starting procedure it still will not start; I cannot even get it to "burp". Yes the fuel is fresh VP caned 50:1 mix. Can I get a little help?
Do you have to put it on half choke to start it again each time after you’ve turned off the engine for a couple of minutes (between moving logs and so forth), or can you start it from the run position after that?
You shouldn’t have the chain brake engaged when you start it and flip it to the warm start position this will overtime burn up your clutch. Also on the first start let it idle for a little bit to break it in a little bit and everyone after that let it warm up for a little bit or else the piston will expand faster that’s the cylinder and cause a cold seizure.
I recently took a three day Sawer certification course so that I could use my chainsaw to cut up blow downs on a 10 mile section of the Appalachian trail that my club, The Allentown Hiking club maintains. The trainers constantly insisted on the practice engaging the brake before starting. We do not Fell trees on the AT, we only cut up blow downs. We are not authorized to fell trees. I have 12 acres of woods and fell trees as needed. but I assure you that I engage the brake when starting.. I think I will follow the Instructor's information rather than yours, Jackson.
I have two stihl saw. Once running they are great but starting is the most difficult frustrating thing anyone can imagine. They are true shit to start. Same for my stihl back pack blower, once running great but get ready to keep starter fluid on hand. This video did nothing. And mine have been to the dealers more than once. Next saw is some thing else.
@@jsmythib I ended up ditching the Stihl for a husky. So far that has started as advert every time. A slight low idle, but it runs like a chain saw should. No more frustration. Stihl the company never responded to my requests for help. even the dealer I returned the saw to had no answers. My spark plug in a brand new unit was covered on the inside with red plastic chips. Not a good sign.
@@justinmjdell not at the very end but right after he starts it and does a quick rev to switch the choke. Idk i guess its running pretty fast by itself so it doesn't really matter.
Do not follow this video. This is not the proper way to start a stihl. Look at the foot plate. You are on the wrong side of the saw, pull with left hand. NEVER run a motor like that to warm it up!
My Stihl saw is a no-starting POS. It won't start if you follow the instructions and it won't start if you don't follow the instructions. I will never buy another stihl product again. DO NOT BUY A STIHL.
Nothing wrong with that, but how are you going to learn and practice? of course people should learn the dangers of it, then the safety steps and all the protective gear you should be using.
@@ryanaustin8136 If it says "Stihl" on it good luck. Currently fighting a new 212C. Runs whenever it wants to. I should have just bought a larger electric.
