Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
TORCH or FLASHLIGHT?? Hi Guys. Please be aware before any more comments come in regarding my use of the word 'TORCH' in this video. I am aware that in America the word 'FLASHLIGHT' is used where us Brits mostly use the word 'TORCH' for the same thing. So when I say 'TORCH' I mean 'FLASHLIGHT' for our American friends, and I mean 'TORCH' for our British friends. In the video you can physically see what i am using to look into the fuel tank of the chainsaw and it does not resemble (at all) a 'BLOW TORCH' with a naked flame. Instead, it is indeed a FLASHLIGHT with an enclosed bulb as a light source (not a naked flame). Please take a look at this official Cambridge Dictionary definition of the meaning 'TORCH', and it will become more clear as to why I used the word 'TORCH' in my video. It explains that both us British and Americans are correct in the way we both refer to the word 'TORCH' , and what it means for each of us. We can't get fairer than that👍: dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/torch Thank you and sorry for the confusion. Craig
Wow!! I had a Baumr-Ag post hole digger, a Baumr-Ag SX82 and a Stihl MS251 that just would not start... then I found your channel today and now all three work!! The Baumr-Ag vendor told me they had no idea why either wouldn't work and the local chainsaw "expert" held onto my Stihl for nearly 6 months claiming he was "still working on it". Yeah right... After watching a couple of your videos me and my 11-year-old son had all three engines working in a matter of hours! Next pay day I'll have to send you enough for a few beers (or soft drinks) on me! :-D
Thank you for your videos - the explanations are really useful. I enjoyed them and have one thing to add. I just fixed up a craftsman chainsaw that I had not used in about 15yrs (saw was about 28yrs old). Gas lines/primer bulb/air filter were rotten and the oil pump was gunked up. So I got a new carb, new lines, filters and oil pimp and cleaned it up. But it did not start. I tested to see if I had a spark by removing the plug and laying it on the engine top while I spun the engine with the rope and yes there was a spark. But I decided to change the plug anyway and it fired right up. The spark from the old plug was a dull yellow, the spark with the new plug was a crisp white. So look for the type of spark, not just whether there is a spark. Hope this helps.
Hi The Repair Specialist, thank you so much. I have 2 chainsaws and one has been sitting in my shed for the past year as it wasn’t starting. Thanks to your instructions I managed to get the faulty on working! The spark plug was wet. Great video!!!
For those of us in the US with inferior English, a torch is a flashlight 🤣👍Probably wouldn't end well if you tried to check it with a flame torch! I'm learning so much from your videos and I'm very grateful for it all!
Very Good step by step analysis. I cannot tell you the number of saws brought into the shop that were out of gas or had the switch turned off....so many, that we now check the saw with the customer standing there before we take it in...
I have the very same saw and it's a beauty, cut threw a big gum tree no problem at all just need to keep the chain sharp as you can get it. I sliced my thumb open one time. I'm in Australia mate great video.
Sorry to hear about your thumb, but I do agree that these chainsaws are brilliant value for money. Mine has never let me down and is still going strong. Thanks. Craig
Here you will see me adjusting this chainsaw with total ease. Unlike some budget chainsaws, these have their fuel screw adjustments accessible. The adjustments are just a flat screwdriver headed screw. I don't know about you but I think this makes life much easier when they are like this. It's much easier to make the adjustments and keep them running well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-74p9FLmIkkw.html . Anyway, enough of my goings on. Cheers. Craig
A very clear and well explained video. I worked my way down your list and when I sprayed the carb with cleaner that did the trick. You saved me an expensive visit to the repair center. Thanks very much.
Thanks alot man!! My spark plug was dirty and flooded, I cleaned and dried it and it started right up no problem!! If it wasn’t for this video, I would’ve had to pay someone to check it for me, you saved me money!
I hate and love how this video was helpful -_- the stop trigger switch on my chainsaw was the culprit. Sometimes the problems are the most overlooked easy ones. Thank you very much 😂 chainsaws for dummies 101
so ive got a chainsaw that wont start and ive ordered a new one while im working away now I cant wait to get home and have a crack at repairing old faithful,Awesome clip mate,As for the torch flashlight thing most of us will work it out, there a certain breed that will tell you what to say..........
Sorry, yes. As an Englishman I have always been used to referring to a 'flashlight' as a 'torch' because this is the dominant word we use for this. I know that in America the word 'torch' means that of a gas torch with a naked flame, but we refer to this as a 'blow torch' So this is where I have confused things so my apologies for that. A flashlight is what I mean though. Thanks. Craig
One more quick pre-check- Make sure the chain break is pulled back and cocked. That’s the plastic part near your knuckles when you grasp the front handle.
Thank you for your nice feedback. I really appreciate it. Do you mean cleaning the outside to make it look nice or inside the components? Thanks. Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist I mean both. Especially after cutting woods both chain lubricant and wood shavings are all over the chainsaw. How to clean it in order for it to perform well and safe on the next time we use it.
Great video Craig. Thank you for taking the time to put it together. If you should see this post I have a question. I have a 20 year old Stihl 029 that I've managed to keep running through trial and error, watching videos like this one, and repairing at home all the issues that have come up. Yesterday it was running fine but after I shut it down I haven't been able to get it started again. I have spark, I think it's getting fuel, (last year I rebuilt carburetor) and I actually shot some starting fluid into the cylinder with no effect. My thinking is even if it won't run I should get a short light off. I removed the muffler and I do see 1 vertical line on the piston. I wouldn't call it a score. Doesn't appear to have any depth. When pulling the start cord it certainly feels to have compression. With even a little fuel or starting fluid in the cylinder, assuming adequate compression, I think I should have some ignition. What do you think? Bruce
Thank you for your kind words about the video Bruce, and I'm glad to hear it's been helpful in maintaining your Stihl 029 chainsaw. It sounds like you've done a thorough job troubleshooting the issue so far. Let's consider a few more aspects that might help you get your chainsaw running again: Compression Check: Despite the chainsaw feeling like it has compression when pulling the start cord, it's still possible that the compression is not sufficient for the engine to start. A compression test using a gauge can provide a more accurate assessment. For most small engines, a healthy compression reading is typically above 90 psi. Piston and Cylinder Condition: The vertical line you mentioned on the piston, even if it doesn’t seem deep, can be significant. Such marks can indicate wear or damage that might affect compression or the piston's movement. It's worth inspecting the cylinder and piston more closely for any signs of wear or damage. Ignition System: You mentioned having spark, but it's worth ensuring that the spark is strong and consistent. Sometimes a weak spark might not be sufficient to ignite the fuel, especially if there are other borderline issues. Fuel System: Since you rebuilt the carburetor last year, it's likely in good shape, but it’s still worth checking the fuel lines and filter for any blockages or leaks. Ensure that the fuel mix is fresh and correctly proportioned. Old or improperly mixed fuel can cause starting issues. Air Flow and Muffler: Check the air filter to ensure it's clean and allowing adequate airflow. Although you removed the muffler, make sure there’s no obstruction in the exhaust path. Starting Fluid Caution: Be cautious with starting fluid. While it can help in some cases, it can also cause damage if used excessively, especially in a two-stroke engine like the one in your Stihl chainsaw. Professional Assessment: If the problem persists and you’re unable to pinpoint the issue, it might be time to take the chainsaw to a professional. Sometimes, issues that seem simple can be symptoms of more complex problems. Your approach to diagnosing the issue has been logical and thorough, which is excellent. Sometimes these older machines require a bit of extra care and detective work to keep them running smoothly. If you've covered all these bases and the chainsaw still won't start, professional help might be the next best step. Again, these are just ideas as it is difficult to diagnose a machine when its not present and in front of me, but i hope this helps a little Craig
Thanks so much for the tips and replying. In the meantime I dropped my saw at the shop as I needed it to run. They changed the spark plug. Said compression was good at 135 psi and managed to get it started. I wasn't able to speak with the mechanic but the comments on the paperwork stated, "saw easily floods" Hmmm...well It's a battle to get it running but once warmed up it runs fine. I'll probably thoroughly clean the carburetor again and see what happens. Thanks again! @@TheRepairSpecialist
Thank you for the excellent video. I will save it for future reference. My chainsaw has only had 3 tanks of fuel since I bought it. This 4th take has not worked. I may have got the mix wrong. Should I empty the tank and start over?
Thank you for your kind feedback, I really appreciate it. Yes it might be a good starting point to do just that, but there I would have thought you would have at least have been able to get the saw to fire up even if the mix is wrong. It could be something quite simple, or it could be a manufacturer issue. If your saw is very new then I would take it back and have it looked at under warranty. If you try to repair it yourself then your warranty could very well be void. I would try taking it back to the supplier first.
I have unusual problem, my chainsaw starts fine with choke on when cold and runs great. After some time when engine warms up and I shut it off it simply won't start, even if it starts it just idles when you gave her throttle it just dies. When engine cools down it starts and runs normally, so basically when it starts you shouldn't turn it off. Mine solution for this is that I just left chainsaw idling with brake on for amount of time when is not needed but I would like to repair it properly. When engine is hot it runs without choke and runs good, but when you shut it off for 5-10 minutes it sinply won't start, with or without choke with or without throttle
My saw is brand new and I have the same problem. Cold start good, switch off and won't start again. And trying to get it start will flood it and it's over for the day.
One thing that caused me a lot of problems was wasp laying eggs and clogging the exhaust pipe with mud. I spent too much time doing the regular checks and missed this simple fix. Now I look for this first.
You also have to check the spark screen attached to the muffler. Sometimes they get clogged full of soot, traps exhaust inside the engine and stops combustion.
Hi. Thank you for your kind feedback. However, I think that if you are having difficulty turning over your chainsaw then it could be that there is some seizing occurring in your engine. You might need to just make sure of this by removing your exhaust band taking a look inside the engine through inlet port. When you do check for scores on the inside of the barrel. That a look also that there nothing fouling or catching the flywheel by removing the recoil. Thanks
My Stihl 028 Super fired on the second try after not being started for 2-3 years. All I had to do was fill it up with mixed and the oil looked good and it runs great. 👍🏻
Had one that kicked back when starting , retarted timing setting, plug gap opening, etc. did not fix. Even did it with plug REMOVED. flushed out cylinder, o.k. now.
Do you have a tinking video? I bought a new saw like this thinking it was cheaper than getting parts for the old. I never imagined I would rob the new saw. It started tinking rattling after a few days. Something just seemed wrong. I don't know whether to buy parts for the new saw.
You're right to be attentive to your new chainsaw's performance, especially if it seems to be getting too much fuel at start. While your initial thought is about the "H" (High speed) screw, this screw primarily affects the fuel mixture at high RPMs and is less likely to be the cause of issues at startup. In your situation, several factors could be contributing to the excess fuel issue: Malfunctioning Choke: The choke's role is to enrich the fuel mixture to help start a cold engine. If the choke is not disengaging properly after the engine starts, it could continue to provide a richer mixture than needed, leading to excessive fuel. Carburetor Debris: Even new chainsaws can sometimes have debris in the carburetor, which can disrupt the proper flow of fuel and air. This can occur if the chainsaw was tested at the factory and not properly cleaned, or if there was debris in the fuel used. Incorrectly Set L screw. The "L" (Low speed) screw, which controls the fuel mixture at lower RPMs, might be set incorrectly. This screw should be adjusted according to the manufacturer's specifications. Stale Fuel: Using stale or improper fuel can cause various performance issues, including flooding the engine with too much fuel. Always use fresh, clean fuel mixed with the correct ratio of two-stroke oil. Likelihood of Occurrence in a New Saw: It's not common, but these issues can happen with new chainsaws. Manufacturing processes are not infallible, and sometimes minor issues slip through. It’s also possible for chainsaws to be tested at the factory, which could leave residual fuel or debris in the system. Since your chainsaw is new, I'd recommend checking these aspects: Ensure the choke is functioning correctly and fully disengaging after starting. Inspect the fuel quality and make sure it's fresh. If comfortable, check the "L" screw setting as per the manual, or consider having it checked by a professional. If you suspect debris or a carburetor issue, it might be best to take it to a service center, as carburetor adjustments can be delicate. Remember, while making adjustments, only turn the screws in small increments and test the saw after each adjustment. If you're unsure or the problem persists, seeking professional help is the safest option. It's great that you're proactive about maintaining your chainsaw's performance from the start! I hope you get it sorted soon Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist I don't know it sounds real bad. Major tinking that got worse and worse. I put the new bar and and plastic shroud from the carborator on the old chainsaw. It starts a d sounds much better. Of course I had buggered with the Hand L screws. Since the purge bulb feels right I am now turning the H screw a bit at a time and waiting an hour. With the purchase of a new fuel filter I will put them both back together and take them to my village "master."
MY NAMES JAIME AMERO FORM CANADA. YOU SHOULD HAVE SAID SOMETHING ABOUT THE IGNITION COIL. I GOT A HYUNDAI 62 CC CHAINSAW FROM THE UK . I CUT THREE TREES AND IT WOULD NOT START .TOOK IT TO A REPAIR SHOP AND THEY SAID IT WAS THE IGNITION COIL. . I ORDERED ONE IT'S NOT HERE YET. I HOPE IT FIX'S IT . . SO I BOUGHT A BACK UP SAW. THE ECHO 590 . WHAT A GREAT CHAINSAW THE ECHO IS.STARTS REALLY GOOD. GREAT VIDEO ..🤔DON'T FORGET THOSE IGNITION COIL'S NOW.
ive got that exact saw and i took it apart to clean it and give it an inspection, not only had the fuel hoses cracked but the gasket from the carb into the cylinder was also cracked... new part on ebay cost about 4 quid including delivery
Is this generic model built for replacing hoses? I have tried to take this whole thing apart to deep clean to get hoses back on snug. It seems like replacing hoses might be an option?
Crappy fuel is usually the cause, or crappy dirty spark or failed primer bulb, i run a 25 year old 2 stroke chainsaw and a 5 year old 4 stroke lawnmower, use shell vpower / premium in both, 40.1 on the chainsaw, vpower has a good shelf life, I've got some on my shelf thats 3 years old and still works fine, couldnt say the same for cheaper fuel your lucky to get 6 months out of standard fuel.
How much compression should you expect to see in a typical chainsaw? I have a Mountfield and it has 60PSI but just will not start. Good spark, good fuel, even tried starter spray direct into the chamber.
Excellent video, watched it before even trying to start my chainsaw as I am expecting trouble The only criticism I have is that the sound level was a bit up and down and I had to turn it up and was then deafened by the ads
I have a MS 271 Farm Boss that was purchased new in 2021. This unit has only 3 or 4 tanks of fuel run through it. Every time I want to use it, I have a hard time getting it to start. I had it back to the dealer to be told it was flooded. That was 13-14 months ago. The saw has been sitting only 2 to 3 months since last used. It would not start. I pulled the plug to find a no name plug in place, so I replaced it with a Bosh plug making sure it was gapped to speck. (0.020) Folling the recommended starting procedure it still will not start; I cannot even get it to "burp". Yes the fuel is fresh VP caned 50:1 mix. Can I get a little help?
I've got a poulan chainsaw 3314 that's probably been sitting for a while. I replaced the fuel lines & primmer bulb. When I pull the rope it wants to stop in several places. It pulls smoothly with the plug out. I watched one fellow pour 50/50 gas & 2 cycle oil in the plug hole. I'm soaking it now. If that doesn't fix it, what else could it be?
Great video. When I started mine it smokes a bit. I mixed the petrol and oil according to the instructions. It is the first time I have used it - new out of the box. What should I consider to have it smoke less?
I think it is a Chinese clone made for different markets. If you're after a manual search for "Baumr-ag saw" (Australian market). In the UK Netto was selling them in green plastic under the Gardentec brand for 50 quid.
What if my piston is dark? Dose that mean that the engine might have overheated in the past or that's normal? My chainsaw have been sitting for few years. And only thing I know is that it had some problems with fuel flow or something like that. I have changed carburator, fuel line (with filter). Any ideas what might be wrong?
scored piston from not allowing the engine to warm up and starting to cut too quickly as the piston heats up and expands faster than the cylinder causing it to seize up
I put all new in Piston cylinder fuel filter and carb . Does new carb come preset? Starts up with spray starting fluid then shuts off . Do you have idea what cause it?
i got a husqvarna 55 i picked up not running. good spark . new plug. someone put a giant filter on. i guess filter haa to be fully submerged to suck fuel up?
Hi there! It sounds like you're having a bit of trouble with your Parker top handle chainsaw. It's great that it starts when you hold the trigger fully open, but I understand the frustration of it being hard to start when hot. There could be a few reasons for this issue, but I'll try to help you troubleshoot. First, make sure your air filter is clean and not clogged. A dirty air filter can restrict air flow and make it harder for the engine to start when it's hot. Next, check the spark plug. It might be worn out or fouled. Replacing it with a new one could make a big difference in starting performance. Also, ensure that the fuel mixture is correct and that the carburetor is clean. A clogged carburetor can make it difficult to start when hot. Then there could be the issue of a failing ignition coil. Sometimes if the coil is on it's way out, the engine will start when cold but not when hot. If it is this unfortunate issue then it will be the most costly of all the issues i've mentioned. Sorry to be bare bad news if this is the case! Lastly, consider the fuel you're using. If it's old or of poor quality, it can cause starting problems. Fresh, high-quality fuel is essential. If you've tried these steps and still have trouble, it might be a good idea to consult the manufacturer's manual or reach out to a local service center for professional assistance. I hope these suggestions help you get your chainsaw running smoothly again! I hope this helps a little Craig
Two stroke engines can be fussy little beggars, also some of four stroke mowers etc. Good fuel, a good spark i like NGK plugs they are good quality. I recently got a new line trimmer i was working away it stopped after about 30min tug tug nothing, i put a second hand NGK it started up and ran fine.
Very informative video as usual, thank you👍. My question is, when starting from cold is it normal for it to take say 10 to 20 pulls before it runs? I've got a hedge trimmer that does that but once its warm it then starts first pull. Just wondering if there's anything I could check or do to get it to start easier from cold?
Not really it usually takes around 2 to 4 pulls. You need to choke it and pull it until it tries to start then turn choke off and try to start it maybe with trigger held down. Hope that helps you
A healthy engine should start in 3-5 pulls hot or cold, even the cheaper ones. Make sure your choke is functioning properly and that pump diaphragm and impulse are good
Just a heads up on blaming bad or old fuel. The new fuels have never been better, ever, what’s questionable is the new plastic tanks, lines and carburetors, made from the cheapest plastic money can buy. Fuel can be stored in a good metal can for years with no issues. The army does it all the time.
Hello, I have a Husqvarna 365 Special. It’s about 20-25 years old with maybe less than average use for yearly wood heat supply. Feels to have good compression and has the decompression button. Tried it with and without. New plug, gas filter, air filter, and running 93 octane ethanol free gas. I sits about a month at times. First time I start, it’s 8-10 pulls. Once it starts and runs I can restart anytime in the next few days with about two pulls. Runs great with lots of speed and power pulling a 20” bar. What do you suggest for this difficult initial start? Thanks!
If you haven't already, try cleaning the magneto. I was having to pull like 20+ times to start an old Jonsered, then I cleaned the magneto, used some 240 grit sandpaper to sand the dirt and rust off the magneto and the magnet on the flywheel and it made a HUGE difference, now the saw actually starts in a couple of pulls
Once more I like to disturb you...please forgive me !!.... I have a ROSS chain saw 38cc I put anew piston and cylinder then put it Together and NO COMPRESION pulled apart again put new oil seal .....STILL NO COMPRESSION . Could you give an idea where to look next ? Thank you .
