Exactly. Emphasize how bad the saw is and then blame the only oil that's ever been ran in it for its failure. Ultra may not be the best oil, but it has absolutely nothing to do with that saws failure.
@@ChrisRJ bingo. I work at a saw shop, we’re a dealer for Stihl and Husqvarna. The majority of our customers run Stihl ultra mix oil and we’re not seeing saws, blowers, string trimmers, etc coming in left and right with scored pistons. Everything from residential users, landscape companies, to full on commercial timber fallers. He seems to have jumped onto the “Stihl oil bad” bandwagon.
Agreed. Ultra is not great oil but that saw had an air leak, lean tune or the plating came off the cylinder from not being chamfered adequately in the cave it was assembled in.
I agree the oil didn’t cause that. Stihl ultra was over engineered. Also according to stats on “chainsaws direct” that chainsaw requires a 40:1 gas/oil mix. I also agree with others on here about a possible crankcase leak. I’m not a hater on YT and I know there was editing done, but it doesn’t look like much of a careful break in was done. I typically break saws in carefully for the first few tanks before hard use.
This guy is raving, l have used Stihl Ultra in all my saws from 25cc to 120cc, works perfectly, He most definitely is a Novice when it has to do with Stihl Ultra Two Stroke Oil and Stihl Chainsaws !
+1 on the Red Armor for me. Been using it for years and have no complaints with it. FWIW boat gas tanks for the older 2 stroke outboards were routinely 6 gallons.
There’s no way the statement that “their hp ultra oil is bad” can be true. If that were the case, it would mean it didn’t work perfectly in my saws for the last 12 years. But it has, and I beat the crap out of my saws. In addition, I also run it in every other small, air cooled two stroke engine I own and haven’t yet had an issue. How is that possible?
I am using Aspen2. No mixing failures, no wrong shaking, no segregation in the canister or glued carb after weeks or month of not using the saw. No problems ever had with my saws, hedge trimmer, brush cutters, leaf blower and earth auger
Love the test but in all fairness I don't think you mixed that oil and gas very well. I tip mine upside down and shake the heck out of it before I run it. If you poured that oil in and it just sank to the bottom, then you gave it a couple horizontal shakes, then filled the saw with gas off the top, you probably fed it 100:1 mix on break in.
Amsoil dominator at 40:1, my ms290 that had sat on a shelf for 10 years before I bought it has cut 40+ full cords of firewood in the past 5 years and it still looks brand new inside
I have never considered what happens with a catalytic muffler until now. But I would guess that the fatter your mixture, the hotter the muffler. I ran echo power blend gold in my poulan 4620 for about 15 years, just pulled the muffler off earlier tonight because I lost a bolt, the piston doesn't have 1 scratch on it. That being said I went down the 2 stroke oil rabbit hole recently and settled on maxima k2. After looking at the piston on my poulan I hope I don't regret that decision. I needed a 1 handed saw , bought a qztodo 2500 off amazon a couple of weeks ago. I have run 4 tanks of fuel through it and so far have been impressed(for the money). I run ethanol gas in my saws and have had no problem. I attribute this mostly to the advent of the push button gas cans that don't exchange air with the outside when sitting in the can. I have a 20" speedcut narrow kerf bar and chain on the poulan and recommend it.
I have been running stihl ultra mix for over 20 years and it hasnt hurt any of my stihl chainsaws before that I ran orange bottle dino oil and I still have an old 048 from 1984 that still runs today.... And by the way I also have 3 chilton 6 gallon gas cans they are called a 6+ look em up
Its possible that stihl Ultra is not the best but i do not believe this cylinder and piston got this bad because of that oil 😉 i think it got that bad because of crappy cylinder and no running it in and putting it in a very hard cut.
@@novicelumberjack if a cylinder is not well made from new it will chew up that piston like i eat potato chips. I have seen tests with stihl Ultra and its not the best oil but it is far from the worse. I love your channel but in order to do a fair test you should remove cylinder and piston to see there build qualité before testing any oil😉
I run the Stihl oil at 50-1 and have never had an issue. That being said, I did recently start putting about a tablespoon of Seafoam into every gallon I mix up in an effort to keep the saw clean as I have seen this issue pop up for multiple people now in spite of my MS362 and 044 not showing any problems with exhaust side piston scoring, or heavy carbon buildup on the top of the piston as of yet running these saws for quite a few years. The Seafoam wont hurt the saw, my trimmers, blowers or weedeaters which are all 50-1 motors. I do have my doubts about the clone saw cylinder and piston quality as well. All this being said? Id run the Red Armor oil, but its impossible to get locally, where as the Stihl stuff is easy to get here. I have also considered using Amsoil as well which is available here.
I've been running the husky oil I'm my husky 455 since I bought it new in 2007. Took it to my dealer to have the carburetor rebuilt and a couple of the techs offered to buy my saw. They said it was a very good running saw and knew other people who wo7ld also buy it.
I have two 6gal+16oz poly fuel cans. I don't remember where the first one was bought, the last one came from Menards. They are out there used alot for marine use to refill boat tanks.
I'm pretty sure the measuring chamber on the Echo Red Armor oil container pretty much dispels the argument about 5 gallon vs 6 gallon nonsense you stated. They are simply stating that that 16 oz container is enough for 6 gallons of gas at 50:1. Kinda like 2.6 oz is enough for one gallon at 50:1. 😊
I know you always catch a lot of sh!t for hating on stihl products, but you’re pretty fair with all brands. You have the only channel I’ve seen running off brands, not just husky/echo/stihl. Thanks for always sharing your thoughts Boedy
That thing is such a pile that it makes me suspicious that the cylinder was junk from the start. But I agree that stihl hp is not worth the price. Its just a fb rated oil that I believe is comparable to a lot of other oils out there. This will probably make some cringe, but I run tc3 at 40ish :1 in some of my saws and give them a couple of tanks of red armor every so often at 40:1 to try and clean up the sloppy oily mess. But at $13 a gallon I paid for the tc3 that’s hard to beat. Also I don’t think it’s worth buying the 6 pack for the extended warranty. Either that saw is good for service or is not going to make it much past the first tank.
I'm selling Amsoil Saber like crazy this Summer. It's catching on with chainsaw owners and landscapers with grass trimmers. I put about 20 hours a week on a Stihl Fs94. Exhaust port is still shinny like new
Interesting …. I don’t have carbon buildup when using synthetic hp ultra . I have a 12 year old saw that only had that through it. Piston and cylinder are spotless . Very interesting…. I wonder if it’s got worse with time .
Hundreds of gallons of mixed gas with hp ultra. And thousands and thousands and thousands of dollars in ported and not ported chainsaw,blowers,trimmers,dirt bikes,snowmobiles and turbo snowmobiles. Not one issue 40:1-50:1 If you burn it up send it to STIHL have them analyze it and it is hp ultra that is the problem the will replace it.
Most of the Chinese saws require 25:1 mix that I’ve seen The ultra has worked for me fine for years in my stihl equipment but I bought a echo saw and was introduced to the red armor and it is by far a superior oil I have not found anything better
I agree , I don't like ultra but I have used it without burning anything up , Most of the zenoah clone saws I have ever seen the break in , said 16 to one for the first three tanks and to not run the saw hard , then 25 to 1 or 32 to 1 there after , its kinda hit and miss with cheap clonesaws , thats why you get the amazon extended warranty .😂
one thing I wonder about is the goofy catalytic mufflers getting extra hot when the saw is run fat, making the cylinder hot, scoring the piston. i'm not a stihl fan, just looking at all possibilities.
I wondered if from the start the saw was chocked up due to emissions stuff because these are sold at big box stores. There is certainly variation amongst the quality of zenoah clones.
I have been running Castrol's Go! 2T oil for years, and I have yet to have an issue with it. I suspect Stihl has their own additive package that isn't as good.
@@82f100swb I'm not going to argue oil with you. I'll just say that I'm in the industry, and I won't use Castrol. I'm a guy that collects and uses chainsaws, and other two cycle equipment of all ages. The oil Stihl uses is in a different bottle. That's the only difference.
@@timothybyrom5560 I believe there is a difference(there was back in my dealer days) in what Stihl sells oil wise here in Canada vs the USA, and it could well be the same with Castrol. Kind of like how Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 0w40 is a Canada only oil... I have been using the Go! 2T exclusively for the last 5 years with zero issues. Have had saws apart multiple times during various builds etc, and I see no reason not to use it. Some of the saws that I put the most runtime on are pretty high strung, and definitely put the oil to work. I definitely fall more into the category of saw hoarder than collector at this point, 250+ saws in the shop... 😂 I did use Red Armour when we had a dealer in town(I also worked there...) and it was a decent oil. But, my closest source is 4 hours drive away now. However, I am going to try iPone Self, I have used lots of their snowmobile oil in the past, curious to try their OPE oil, plus it smells good...
10:20 God, I love that brutal honesty. I wish more people would tell it like it is instead of hee hawing around, afraid to offend anyone. Well done, good sir.
Great content! I use Amsoil in cars, Shell in the diesels, and Echo RedArmor in my saws. Buy it by the gallon and like the additives, Zero Issues in my saws.
I've noticed the ultra doesn't have that super greenish blue look like the orange bottles. I'd put money on that Chinese saw being a POS from the day it was made over the Stihl oil being bad.
Why bash on a reputable brand oil used in a junk saw? Clearly the tolerances are all over the place. The piston to cylinder wall clearance wasn't enough for the given heat put threw the saw, and No type of oil could have prevented that.
@@OOOOOO12345 Yup. I tried it at 75 or 80 to one for 5 gallons too. Other than changing the tune a little, it still ran great. But "50 to one and round up to the next ounce" has worked great for me.
@@bigfootandbananaman4746 There are LOTS of good oils out there. I liked the VP racing FD oil, and I had no problems out of a 5'er of Quicksilver (the FD one). Red armor is fantastic oil too.
In the 80’s and earlier you could get 6 gallon cans. I have an old snowmobile 6 gallon mix can. Lol. But you are correct, you don’t see them anymore. I like 40:1 Maxima 927 castor. Have had great luck with this for decades in motorcycles and power equipment. Downside you can’t use it in cold weather. So I drop in Maxima K2
Interesting, first I've heard of it. I have a 361. I've always run stihl oil. I've cut 15 cords of wood with it for 15 years and never had any problems. Maybe the quality changed more recently?
Ultra works perfectly fine...until things go sideways. A saw that is a little out of tune, pushing it too hard, overheated, etc. If your equipment is top notch, tuned well, and your a good operator who doesn't force stress on the equipment (like I did in this situation) it is fine and people run it for years. But...when you let your neighbor barrow your saw and he runs that chain in the dirt on the first cut, then proceeds to push I through the wood dogging it in harder and harder....Ultra will not protect it and you will need a new piston and cylinder. Whereas with quality oil in that same situation, you probably just have to teach your neighbor about sharpening a chain. Also, if something does go really wrong and you experience a failure, with quality oil it is much more likely that you can just clean up the cylinder and buy a new piston. With Ultra, the protection is so miniscule that the scoring will likely tear through the cylinder lining as well. That is why I detest Ultra. It is totally fine under normal conditions. Absolutely terrible at protecting your equipment if something happens and you can't catch it in time.
Well, in agreement with what you said, the people who work at Stihl are fooling their customers by offering them a very expensive oil supposedly for good and without any protection. They may even be unrelated to the subject and have no idea about oils.
The ultra oil didn't "blow up" the saw. It failed to protect it in a tortured situation. Why folks can't understand this is beyond my level of rational thinking. Stihl Ultra is fine when everything is working as it should, but when it gets tough and you have an overheating situation like this, it doesn't provide adequate protection.
I don’t known if it’s an geographical thing but most of the plastic gas cans I come across are 6 gallon. I do live near the water which portable out board tanks are six gallons. Either way that fuel jacked that saw up.
Always a good idea to tune to four-stroking (blubbering) *while under load,* then lean out until the blubbering *just* goes away. Two-strokes are at least partly fuel-cooled. Was taught this back in the late seventies by a professional saw mechanic.
I own a bluemax 20/14” combo. Owners Manuel….40:1 is required mixture, chain that comes with the saw is designed for bucking, not cutting routinely with grain and like most saws there is a breakin period of 2-3 tanks of fuel. For a 140 dollar cost the saw is okay. Limbing trees on the ground yep. Bucking 30” rounds….nope. I also own a 4 cylinder Toyota Tacoma. Going to the store for beer and chips….Yep. Plowing 13” of snow…..that truck sucks. Right tool for the job. Never saw a video testing a saw while cutting in that manner.
I’ve been running amsoil in my holzforma 372 and husky345 , at 50:1 n they seem to like it, haven’t had a problem w my 372 at all either , hopefully 🤞 never will
My bluemax works pretty well considering it was less than a third of the price of a stihl, been using it for a couple years it still start on the second or third pull
Red armor is darn good oil and the one i recommended if that person is just going to grab something locally! Tho I've been extremely happy with maxima castor 927 for the last year or so.
Check your cylinder bolts. The on the left I can see under it if you zoom in. I’m wondering if that bolt is loose. I wouldn’t be surprised. Plus there is some type of build up right there I wouldn’t expect with one tank of gas. A air leak that big can do damage fast.
I’ve heard this multiple times about Stihl oil. I’ve never had an issue with Echo, Husqvarna, or Red Armor oil. I use the blue “water” gas cans that are six gallons. They also come with regular nozzles.
It’s a good oil. It is getting an unwarranted name for itself. Yes there are better oils, but Ultra is good. I work in a Stihl shop though I use Motul 800 at home in all my saws and bikes etc.
Well my local Mom and Pop mower shop that is a Stihl dealer wants you to buy the silver bottle of Stihl oil what you buy a new Stihl product so you can get that extra warranty but their mechanics in their shop use Lawnboy 2 stroke oil in everything they work on and run 32:1 . I started using it also and it has the mixing ratio on the bottle to show you how many gallons to mix for what ratio you like from 16:1 to 50:1 .
Yes cheap saw but it's just amplifying the issues, you just made it happen faster. This was a good test. My first farmertec 660 kit saw I built is still going and going strong, it's all original too!
I burn 40:1-32:1 vp racing 2t oil in anything 2 stroke think the real scam is the 50:1 mix in anything 2 stroke. Dyno runs in most common 2 strokes why does it make most power at 40:1 32:1 mix its because it's being ran at the happy peak performance. I'm not clearly telling people to run my setup or anything what kills most engines is each time you use 50:1 your slowly killing it. 1 not enough oil suspended into the mix 2 oil has to lubricate so not enough oil to cover critical areas etc..
I'm sure many of you aware that some Chinese 2 stroke engines require 32:1 or 40:1 mix that might had been the issue. Also I've been told by a stihl mechanic that HP super was desperate for the 4 mix engines as those have plastic gear lobes and the hp super shouldn't degrade the plastic which is crap as the plastic wears either way. All might be just bs so we would buy a more expensive oil
So don't read this wrong. All is good and I am just looking to teach you. Here it is: NONE of the Chinese saws "require" any certain mix ratio. They just put those labels on there because they do. Simple as that. They are not building those saws to any spec that would require any specific ratio. They put those labels on as CYA, "cover your ass". I have many clone saws. Still use 40:1. The oil ratio is completely dependent on the oil... not the saw. Look at it this way, the old saws where often labeled to run 16:1 oil to gas ratio because the saw was built in the 1960's and most people where using regular motor oil. Well, a modern saw is labeled 50:1. If you took the same motor oil and mixed it 50:1, that saw would not last a full tank before burning up the piston and cylinder. The mixture has nothing to do with the saw, and EVERYTHING to do with the oil. And lastly, I am regularly AMAZED at how little certified techs actually know. Doesn't matter much if they have 3 years of experience or 30. About 90% of them are stone cold morons that will spread bs like warm peanut butter.
I have a couple Bluemax saws that I've never ran laying around. They both are about 10ish years old. They both have 25:1 oil ratio stickers on them. Not trying to cover for them. But they could be some of the issue. Now should they run at 50:1 without issue. I would say absolutely they should. Even though it's Chinese garbage I'm surprised they make something less than 40:1 or 50:1. Judge me as you may I still run everything at about 16:1 in modern and old.
This Channel is ALL about talking bad about STIHL!😤😣 I don't like that kind of attitude no matter what brand is in question. Had to cancel my subscription...😒
In my opinion, your channel is the best as far as testing saws go. You give a lot of details and put a lot of thought into what you say. This is your best review video by far.
i always run 40-45:1 even tho i use quality oil, never failed me. do you do tractor vidjas? do you have one of them there KU-BOATERS? chainsaws and tractors go together
Won’t void warranty because of no ultra, the dealership was wrong telling you that only thing the ultra does is double your warranty. 1 year saw warranty becomes 2 and a 2 year weed trimmer warranty becomes 4 if you buy a 6 pack of ultra or 2 gallons of motomix.
Isn't the saw spec to run fuel through it 40:1? If so no wonder the piston scored at fuel that is 50:1 after one tank. I am just trying to make sure I have all the information correct.
Saw is absolutely designed for 40:1 and lack of breakin on engine was not a great idea especially since running a saw “fat” didn’t help matters. Adjusting a carb after 5 seconds of run time seems odd
@@novicelumberjack in my experience the 40:1 and other non pro grade 2-stroke engines are made of lower grade steel and other components thus needing more oil. Have you torn that engine down? And or what does the rest of the engine look like?
i been using ELF moto 2 XT in my dirt bikes chainsaws and weedwackers since the 90s its a rare quality oil and i noticed my engine builders made comments more than once how clean it burned. both top end and powervalves from the older 2 stroke motocross bikes from the 90s plus my body has bounced off the earth more than your average guy so im done with motocross. also when i close my eyes and whack the throttle on my STIHL 400 and HUSKY 550XP im back on a full gate smelling that fine oil hoping to grab a holeshot! great channel slow hand! next time i restock my ELF moto 2 XT can i send you a jug to test out? PS waiting for you to lay into HARVEY again! go into the HOT ROD and SLOW HAND character next time you blast IRON DONKEY!
that saw is junk throw it in the dumpster and be done with it lol. But as far as the oil goes i use nothing but Red armor with my echoes and i say it is by far the best and have had no issues yet with it.
Stihl oil does suck but Im surprised being from the motorcycle world like you are I would think you would be running a premium motorcycle oil in your saws especially being you port and modify your saws. Echo red armor isn’t really that good of an oil it just has a really high detergent package in it and a super low flash point so it burns clean but it doesn’t compare to the synthetic motorcycle oils for protection from heat wear and high rpm’s.
