Can't help but wonder if they actually serviced the calipers and flushed the fluid. A slab job is expensive if the calipers don't work evenly you don't get full potential.
Yes, also I would invest the little extra money in braided brake hoses and some sort of cooling for the front discs. Even if you just route some 2,5" hose it'll help a lot.
I fitted 2 piece 356mm discs and 8 pot calipers to my WRX, the best place for WRX brakes is the bin 🤣 although they did use them in gravel spec rally imprezas
I'm assuming y'all replaced the fluid. After those brakes were on fire the fluid probably isn't in good condition. Motul RBF600 is a relatively affordable upgrade.
didnt you see the sparks coming off like all the time lol. That means theyre at their maximum. Testing it to failure doesnt give us much extra info and is stupid and dangerous.
This needs to be a reoccurring series with different match ups. See how far you can get within budget then try to figure out how much it would actually take if you miss or how much faster you can go if you have left over budget. Either way, I love it so far!!! Also, I'd love to see what it would take to build a regular budget ICE car that could take on a performance model electric car in a full battery (pun intended) of tests, straight line, road course, slalom, braking etc...
Yeah they should just buy a clapped out 90's civic and demolish a highest spec Tesla Model S Plaid on the track 😂 Wouldn't be hard but definitely entertaining
Both simultaneously, maybe a phone and tablet, PC and TV? Then you just need to train your eyes like the Apache gunship pilots/gunners to be able to look at and focus on 2 things at the same time! Good luck mate!
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You need either the 06-07 WRX gearbox with the final 4.11 drive or the Forester XT gearbox with the 4.44 final drive. Right now, you have the 3.90 gearbox
Do braided brake lines + high temp fluid. Makes a big difference for track driving, you get better feeling through the pedal, and less fade with repeated laps.
I'm calling it now: they aren't going to beat the Lambo time if they keep it road legal. There's no reasonable amount of power gain that is going to make those six seconds, SPECIALLY in a twisty little track like that. But it's Ok. Because this vid series is being absolutely phenomenal!
I agree. They would have to add a considerable amount of power to start. I also think a different transmission is necessary to have all that power useable for the track they're using. If their budget was 50 grand, I think they could put a smack down on the Lamborghini
Even after you guys finish this series, I really hope you keep incrementally-modding the subie and seeing how much faster it gets! Id love to see several seasons of this, and bolt-on power mods etc. Like starting with a Cobb up-pipe, turbo-back exhaust & Acessport tuner etc. Also Im curious if front and rear strut-tower braces would make any noticeable difference. (Ive heard they do, especially when youve already done coilovers, sways bars, tires etc)
At some point you can't keep bolting on/off, you have to make a build design and change a bunch of things for that power level, so for example if they targeted 400hp, the transmission would have to be swapped with an STI, which requires a new drive-line, wheel hubs, and thus brakes/rotors, so everything they just bought goes in the bin. I also like the idea you have, but in reality it's difficult to chain more than 4 episodes together like this for RU-vid. I wanted to make a RU-vid series like this but for MPG, and the best i could chain together was 8 episodes
As the owner of a 3-pedal, 05 Saab 92x aero (Saabaru), that I want to make great for autoX & spirited driving.. This has literally been my favorite 'build series' ever. I cannot wait for new episodes to come out. There isnt anyone else I know of doing the mods i plan on, and comparing lap times after each step🙌. So far my car only has a Cobb stg2 turbo-back exhaust & tune, but desperately needs coilovers (BC or Pedders), bigger brakes (from a v1 CTSV), sway bars/end links, 17" rims (rota titans), tires, & improved cooling & oiling systems.. along with some homemade strut-tower/chassis braces. Only after all that Ill look at getting an up-pipe, header, & other minor mods for better low-end power & response. Only if I had moneys😂
As another Saabaru owner, I’d look into getting that up pipe replaced first. They’re catalyzed on 02-05 wrxs (and our cars) and are known to fail and send bits into the turbo. After that though it’s whatever you want to do.
The roll center kit actually increases camber gain under bump. By lowering the control arm relative to the wheel center the ball joint will move more vertically as the wheel travels up while the upper part of the knuckle travels along the angle of the strut. So the top of the knuckle moves inboard as it travels up while the bottom of the knuckle stays more nuetral with the net difference being an increase in camber. This is good because the body roll directly decreases tire camber relative to the ground. In a typical mcpherson strut application peak camber gain in the front relative to the body will be 0.25 to 0.3 degrees of camber gain per 1 degree of body roll. This translates to 0.75-0.7 degrees of camber loss relative to the road. So both of the changes made suspension wise will improve the steady state cornering tire contact patch as the amount of body roll and thus bump travel while cornering is reduced as well as the camber loss relative to the ground is reduced.
I'm loving this series, and actually learning. Even if we never do these mods ourselves, i think it will improve our knowledge and understanding of track racing, and increase our enjoyment when watching track racing. I have been surprised by some of the results and even even the mods the guys are making. The anti roll bars being a case in point. You want the cae to stay flat, but you also want weight transfer to the outside tires through corners. There's a real science to it.
As others have said, very surprised you didn't change to braided steel brake lines and flush/replace the brake fluid with something like a Motul RBF or similar. The lines and fluid can be had for ~£125 and make a huge difference to brake feel and responsiveness. Enjoying the series though, looking forward to more!
Been daily-driving some Godspeed discs on my i30N for nearly 2 years now, their quality is amazing for the price and with some good pads the best budget-upgrade you can get IMO
Make sure to add a heavy duty brake fluid. Motul RBF 660 is really stiff. Has my race 4 pots feeling like a rock under my foot. 0-100% brake force is like 10cm of travel.
I'll only ever watch these kind of videos, because if I ever get into tinkering with my own car, there'll be no end to it. I'll spend more time fiddling with it than ever driving it. So thanks for filling that void.
This is bonkers! Keep this style of content coming, please! I've been watching every episode on the day of and loving every second of it. Love you guys!
In a lot of cars, I've found that the limit for braking is more the tyres than the brakes themselves. For sure better brakes will work better under repeated use though. Front suspension geometry is critical to get the tyres planted on the road for best traction to stop quickly.
So happy with your brake choice, and using the extra cash for suspension. Literally best way to use the money. Who knows, with what’s left maybe you can do a used LS swap if you can sell the old engine XD
Hell yeah! I have a 5spd 05 Saab 92x aero (saabaru) that i want to mod for great handling/ autox. So far it only has a Cobb stg2 turbo-back exhaust & tune. But it desperately needs full suspension, bigger brakes, rims/tires, & cooling/oiling upgrades.
@@flexinclouds I also just got extremely light volk wheels and they changed the feel of the car tremendously. The stiff suspension and stiff sway bar also made a huge difference!
If you've taken a significant amount of weight out of the car it's always going to feel significantly stiffer because the springs and dampers are dealing with less mass and less energy. It's basically the opposite of how a car feels more wallowy when you've got a bunch of heavy junk in the boot.
Can't wait to see the power mods bring out the rest of the balanced upgrades. These cars put down 275 AWHP with cursory exhaust mods alone (+tune). BEFORE YOU BLOW THE ENGINE: consult an expert on oil system. An *oil separator* and an *oil pump* upgrade are both worth it since y'all are beating this thing up so hard.
You guys should have done a brake cooling kit, they have kits that direct cool air to the rotors by using air intakes under the car or from the front bumper im sure it would help with the fading
After the grand finale race, it'd be interesting to see what it would look like with an actual interior. As in, actually turn it into a van (remove sharp edges, put in some very lightweight carpet/flooring, a passenger seat...).
This is an absolute brilliant series one of the best I’ve seen on RU-vid (maybe bias as I am a massive Subaru fan) 😂 can’t wait to see more keep it up please lads
i would slap on 2012 ish sti brakes on, they are pretty cheap used and the break really really well, got me from 260 kmh to 0 kmh real quick a couple of times
in the wet you can just disconnect or remove the front anti roll bar. it will help turn in, reduce understeer, improve traction out of the corner and possibly even induce a bit of oversteer. AWD and FWD cars do not like big fat anti roll bars.
Brake caliper rebuild, braided lines, brake system flush and a strut brace if possible. Can't believe how much difference a strut brace made with my daily work hack. Got to love tinkering with vehicles. 😊
@@arcanevoid9199 on my little run-around car (Toyota Echo) I will say that it's stiffened things up to the point where it is now very twitchy on the open road at highway speeds. Around town it is on rails and pleasant to drive. On my larger GMH VU utility it has improved the handling in the tighter sections and eliminated understeer. New sway bars awaiting to replace the OEM units as well. One very well handling machine now.
Quick tip on sway bars. I used to do rally cross in one of these. If you guys replace the sway bars and endlinks, spend the extra cash on the whiteline forged ALUMINUM (#MERICASPELLING) mounts. The stock mounts will eventually twist/rip themselves off, being that they are cheaply made stamped steel that flexes way more than you think they would. This also puts more stress at the weald on the toe control arm where the end link mounts to, so if you rally it, upgrade that part or that arm may snap and fail on you. Cheers guys.
im really enjoying this build, its really cool that youre doing this with an estate, im also amazed how light it is too, it almost weighs as little as an ND MX-5!
I hope that poor Subaru gets its oil changed soon. That engine would’ve been starved of oil multiple times by now with that heavy cornering. The boys should really put a baffled oil pan in to let them get the rest of the test done without needing a new engine
I’ll be honest I have an 08 sti and I am surprised that that thing has not destroyed it’s trans yet after all the launches and abuse let alone the engine. Props to that car.
This is awesome! I love fast and go fast! I just hate stopping once im moving! I have a E63 AMG but I keep my speed on Project Cars with my sims because I don’t want to track this car. Soon tho! I’ll find a flickable toy for the track.
you might need to add the metal plate inside back where the ECU management is on the passenger seat as well as maybe 2 bucket seats with straps as who knows you might fall off the seat
I used to run ATF in my Celica GT-S's gearbox during the winter which allowed for better mpg, quicker shifting and you all need all the help you can get. Blink blink
So, whats next? Dome-strud, wider wheels (+nice tires) raceseat, a tune, valves and cams, turbo and tune. And then if we go silly and/or splash cash, carbon parts, Aero...
This Is something Just wonderful. The more i see of You, the more i absolutely love You guys, especially this days when i cannot drive my car. Thank You and i really Hope to see another episodi of this ahahah
Did you guys fully remove the sunroof and mechanism? Weight that high would cause a lot of lateral weight transfer. A Whiteline anti-lift kit for the front suspension, makes a good upgrade to help the front tyres get their power to the ground. Spherical bearing equipped suspension arms all around for maximum alignment consistency. Remove, relocate or lighten anything forward of the firewall to bring the the front polar moment as far rearward as possible. So ditch the A/C compressor/condenser/evaporator etc, fiberglass or carbon fiber bonnet, lighten any crash structure behind the front bumper as much as possible. Windscreen washer bottle in the bin. Even do away with the engine driven power steering pump and use an electric 1 mounted not in the engine bay, or just run without PS. Centralise things like the battery rather than trying to 'seesaw' the front weight to try and appease the 50/50 weight crowd. Steering wheel spacer and lower the driver's seat to push the driver as low and as far rearward as possible.
Keep an eye on the oil level with all that racing around. If the motor blows look into a 2008+ newer than 2010 WRX motor would be better but they're not too expensive and are built a bit better and have way more power. The transmission might need to be swapped though too and some generations require the axles to be swapped too. A jdm 2.2 L would be the best you can buy. Expensive, though they rev high and produce plenty of power
- Absolutely strip to the bones, no dash, no A/C, no radio or speakers, no wires for them, stripped sound deadening, basically engine, transmission, drivetrain and chassis - Replace all glasses with plexiglass, replace all panels with fiberglass (or dry carbon if you can afford), including doors - AP racing/Brembo/Alcon 4pot/2pot (or 6/4) with ventilated, slotted, 2 piece rotors, racing pads, racing fluids, steel brake lines - Forged aluminum wheels (ie Volks Racing) or carbon wheels and R compound or racing slicks, half or one size bigger than stock (or more if larger turbo and much higher boost) - 2/3/4 way Ohlins/Nitron or better suspension - Recaro Podium or Tillett driver seat with 5 or 6pt harness - Downpipe, straight exhaust, upgraded injectors, fuel pump, intercooler and piping, higher boost and remap or standalone ECU (can put larger turbo also) - Stroker kit, including forged crank, titanium con rods, stronger valves and springs, machined head, blue printed and reinforced block, high lift cam - Larger radiator, oil cooler, transmission cooler - Lithium ion battery - Roll cage/sway bar/other bracings like strut bar as the car is macpherson strut - Racing sequential with straight cut gears Err that should be enough for about half way or more for a hill climb car, would not only break a stock Lamborghini time, but just put up a beastly time in general
More active camber=more high speed grip and it helps you run lower camber values in low speed whilst keeping the high camber in high speed, that's why we usually run high rollcenters at least in single seater (helps to get some rotation on power too)
Down the road, maybe consider some polymere bushings. They won't give you a second (i believe) but make the car feel much better. And good feeling is an advantage
Regarding your understeer problem: The thicker front ARB will just undo the good work the thicker rewr ARB is doing. Factory front, thicker rear and fit at softest setting to begin with but you'll probably find the middle setting is best. Seeing as the car is also lower you will never be able to overcome the lack of front end grip without fitting a roll centre correction kit. These are a good idea on standard ride height cars let alone lowered ones. The suspension geometry on these cars exaggerates the shift to positive camber significantly more than most when pushed hard when lowered. You could also slap an anti lift kit on as well as that will help put the power down effectively in the corners and make the car feel a bit sharper. Roll centre correction kit first though, I'd love you to feel how much difference it makes! Also please try refitting the original front anti-roll bar to the front to reintroduce a little more pliancy. Edit: You bought a roll correction kit, I'm genuinely excited!
Common for those front calipers to get sticky at higher mileage, but surprised you didn't change the brake lines for braided ones and change the fluid.
