Just found your channel and you already lost me with the "you have one arrow that flies good out of your twelve arrows..." If you've only got 1 of 12, you are not even an average archer and should practice more, work on your form, build your arrows correctly, etc. Like you said, what if something goes sideways with your "one arrow that flies good" or you are in your stand, took the shot with your "good arrow" and along comes another target and you have an unfilled tag? Do you really go into the woods/field with one arrow and only one? You should, at minimum, have 3 arrows that group tightly within that dozen. Ideally it will be closer to 9 (or less if you blew them up after continued shooting when stacking 3 together). Ultimately, you end up with 3 sets of three that are all grouping well. One "good arrow out of 12"...LOL
Haha the vanes that ripped off were on a wrap of course they will rip off easily lol 6 arrows or 5 on a quiver if they all fail that animal deserve to live 😅
😂Well one thing the one that tears off easy is because it’s put on the wrap and the wrap is easy to rip off no matter what glue, and most glues u will need a channel locks if put on properly, using primer pen if needed use it
Absolutely! That’s the whole purpose of using wraps and why they were made , they’re designed to keep the shafts from being damaged and easy removal , any vanes will bond to a shaft better than a wrap if they’re prepped identically
@@longshotdiedtired1582yea but there acting like the glue is the reason it came off when it was the wrap because there doing a commercial that’s my point
What's funny is yall want to do a comparison but yet you wrap one arrow with a arrow wrap and the other 1 you don't obviously you're going to make it harder for the fletching to rip off on the arrow that is not wrapped with a arrow wrap the arrow wrap is made of thin plastic which is very easy to rip been there done that that's why I don't use arrow wraps anymore I use gorilla glue all the time works just fine
Aerovane glue does not let you reuse the applicator pin, must buy new applicator pins for every day you use it. Wish you would have told us this as the pin is almost a buck apiece.
Not apples to apples with that test. Straight to the carbon is permanent. They just simply do not adhere as well to vinyl. That being 6:18 am still using vinyl. I want to have a flawless shaft if i choose to refletch.
There are 2 major factors here that stand out. One arrow has a wrap on it. Fletchings and glue do not work that well on a wrap. You can prep a carbon/ graphite shaft and the glue will stick better.
I would like to see you use both of those glues on bare shafts bonded the same way with the same fletching. Of course the fletching with the wrap will tear off more easily. I bet it wasn’t a failure in the bond but a tear in the wrap. It would also be nice to see if the failure was on the shaft side or the fletching side, or in other words where the failure accused. Just my two cents.
Your kidding right? You have never tore fletchings off a wrap to reflech it? The failure is not in the glue the wrap rips off from the shaft. Anyways if you are making claims about a product and the testing isn’t consistent between the two the test it is bogus, that is the point I was trying to make. That’s scientific research 101.
@@cordellnebeker9748 no I've always ran bohning wraps and have never had a fletch come of or tear the wrap because I've always used loctite gel superglue. And the only way to get them off is to scrape them off or soak in boiling water and peel the wrap off vanes still attached. Eben before they came out with the gel I used regular superglue and never had a problem and I've been shooting for close to 30 years
Watch the video a little closer you can see that the fletching tore off the wrap. Again still a bogus presentation when you make claims like that and then use one with a wrap and one without. I have fletched and re-fleched hundreds of arrows with a bunch of different brands of wraps as well as directly to the shaft. It’s not a fare comparison how they did it. For them to make claims like they did they should have prepped the shafts the exact same way and then did the test. Then claims could be valid, but not the way they did it. It’s bogus, sorry!
@@cordellnebeker9748 bro you're missing what I said from my own personal experience. Even when using on a bare shaft all pf the fletch glues fail easier than super glue. And your hundreds don't compare to my thousands on top of thousands
If you only have one (1) arrow out of 12 that flys well something is wrong. Spine match, paper tune and pretty much all of them will fly well. The few, 1 out of 12 that don’t cut it, throw the one away. Done
It was pretty obvious the first two were legit. It was hilarious watching the blank expressions when the noise making magnetized game alarm was rolled out. It's not supposed to be easy to harvest animals with archery equipment. Next new gadget is a stock and gunpowder. Maybe a scope.
Blazer bond.. and insert iron.. that's all I use now. Blazer bond you can shoot it right away and I do not lose fletching now. Ans insert iron takes a sold 12 to 24 to set up but is not coming lose. I've tried fire nock glue there insert glue is great. I don't like the fletching gluem maybe they changed since the last time I used it.
I get it but a nose 👃 button why when you can just touch the string to the end of your nose been shooting nose to string for 20+ years now a tournament archer should me that when I bought my second bow I think the nose to string anchor made me a better shooter by far and now teaching my son to drill his targets the same way
If that sling had an elastic piece instead of a magnet it might be better. It hangs loose from the bow and will catch on brush. Otherwise I like it, I have a Primos one that is similar to the sitka one that works fine but you do have to remove it to shoot the bow. Anytime I'm hunting while walking I don't use it.
Someone mentioned the cresting and that would certainly have an effect. But it looks to me like the vane itself just ripped off, the glue didn't turn loose.
Ok message to the fletching guy. You had 2 different arrows with 2 different types of fletching, one arrow even had a wrap, and if I heard you correctly 2 different people even did the work, this skews the results of the pull test. I totally agree that not all adhesives are the same but when you are trying to prove a point you should at least try to use the same arrows and fletching. I appreciate what you are trying to do but maybe try the to adhesives again with different fletching, wraps and arrows and show the true results, some fletching sticks better than others, some arrows make a better bond than others
I use the Gold Tip tip grip glue and it's been great! It's all about arrow and vane prep. Whether I am using wraps or plain shafts, I lightly wipe the wrap (or shaft) with acetone before fletching. If your wraps have designs, they might be ruined by acetone. I make my own wraps so I'm not sure. I also wipe the vane bases and then prep them with purple pvc primer. My vanes have about the same holding power of the second arrow you guys tested. The other thing is to use minimal glue. Should have little to no squeeze out. Use it for Blazers on hunting arrows, vanetec 1.8s on 3d arrows and 4" feathers on indoor. I also use the tip grip on my inserts and points, holds great! But it's also easier to knock them out with a drill bit should I need to change them. Epoxy is much more permanent. All that being said, I'm always tinkering, so what was the glue you preferred?
@@mikemitchell9157 Yes, you are correct. However most adhesive failures are from uneven pressure and insufficient clamp time. People pull it off too early and leave pockets of air under the vane, or start shooting the arrow before the glue fully cures. Activator/catalyst makes the bond cure much faster, so you're more likely to get a good bond when the clamp is still in place. For your average person, activator will make it stronger without changing anything else.
@@mikemitchell9157 I'm plenty patient, and I've built many arrows with and without it. Depending on the shape of the base, a primer is very helpful to get the edges to hold tight when you're adding pressure by hand and then letting the center cure on its own. Many of the vanes I use require it (AAE, TAC, and arguably DCA). I find much greater consistency in hold when I use a primer, as well. Good bonds are good, but I get more of them with more prep work. An $8 tube or bottle of activator/primer/cyanoacrylate catalyst can last for hundreds of arrows or about a year, whichever comes first. It's really not that expensive, and you don't need archery specific stuff. It's the same chemical no matter the bottle it comes in, so you can get a budget product. The best glue for vanes is the loctite professional liquid, which costs less than $4 a bottle and is way more volume than any archery company sells at that price point. I also cut my own vinyl wraps from rolls I buy from Amazon. If your vanes hold just fine without it, that's great. But I have better luck on more surfaces, especially vinyl wraps (they're mostly all the same) when I use an activator. You do you, but if you want to use a Max Hunter or TAC Driver without a primer of some kind, you're gonna have a bad time.
