Be safe! Texas is preparing for the cold snap, and we are sure the rest of the USA is laughing at us as we clear the grocery shelves and get all of the available gasoline that is for sale! Ha!
I had a few things that I wanted to point out and comment on regarding this video but I don't want you to get the wrong idea because I think that you put out some good content and I think that you're fairly knowledgeable with a lot of things and I believe that your intent is good so please don't misunderstand my concerns with my comments. I have commented on your videos a few times before in the past and I have nothing against you because I think you're a pretty good guy overall and you're really trying to help the RV or camper community as a whole. I understand that a lot of people use their own terminology when referring to things but I really don't think it was a great idea to use the phrase "soft breaking" when referring to loosening the lug nuts of the camper tires. Obviously, everybody is different and has their own ideas on what terms that use but honestly, in my roughly 30 years or more of working on vehicles and other things, I've never heard of somebody referring to loosening the lug nuts as "soft breaking". I'm only suggesting not to use this phrase because it might confuse people that really don't know much about taking off tires or working on things in general. So, my suggestion is to just use the simple common term of loosening a lug nuts but explain why you wouldn't loosen them all the way. Or, you could explain that they could loosen all of them with the exception of two of them as long as the two of them are across from each other and they wouldn't have any issues. Unfortunately, I think you just have to dumb things down for a lot of your viewers or probably the majority of your viewers so using common phrases and terminology is probably the best idea. As far as the rest of the video, I thought it was decent for the most part but there were a few things that I thought you could have improved on and again, it is mainly for the majority of your viewers that are not going to really know squat when it comes to doing these types of repairs or maintenance types of things. For one, I think you need to pretty much explain to people step by step why they need to do certain things in the order that you're explaining them to do them. As an example, I think you should have explained to people why you were having them loosen the lug nuts before jacking up or lifting the camper. Some people might not have any idea why that would be needed because they don't understand that the tire is going to rotate once the camper is lifted in the air and the tires are off the ground and as a result, it is going to be extremely difficult to loosen the lug nuts (by using a socket wrench/ratchet) unless somebody has an impact gun. But also, if somebody does have an impact gun and it at least has a decent amount of torque, they don't need to loosen the lug nuts prior to lifting it off the ground in the first place so that is just wasted time and energy pre loosening (soft breaking) the lug nuts. The impact gun should be able to easily loosen the lug nuts unless for some reason they're on extremely tight which would be a problem in and of itself because then they would be over torqued which is another issue that you should probably explain why it's not good if they are over torqued as well. Obviously, it is easier just to loosen them prior to lifting the tires off the ground if somebody wants to so I'm not saying it's not a good idea to do that to begin with but again, if you have a good impact gun, this is completely unnecessary in almost all cases. Next, I think you should have explained to people that there are sometimes issues with trying to remove the brake drum depending on how old the camper may be or how worn the brake pads (brake "shoes") may be inside the brake drum. Obviously, you guys were working on a fairly new camper so it was probably not going to have issues but often times, when the brake shoes wear down the inside of the brake drum, they can create a lip on on the outer portion of the brake drum and when you are trying to remove the brake drum, it can be extremely difficult to remove the brake drum because it will catch on the brake pads / shoes. People that have hardly any knowledge of working on things (most likely pretty much every viewer that is watching this type of video) doing repairs and maintenance wouldn't have any clue about this but it's definitely something that you want to point out because it's very common when brake pads get worn down. And so, I think you should have explained how people can get their brake drum off when this sort of thing happens. Sometimes it's not that difficult and all you need to do is use a couple big screwdrivers or some pry bars and you can CAREFULLY pry on each side of the brake drum and you will luckily get the brake drum off but other times, you need to actually go on the back side of the brake backing plate / shield and go through the adjustment hole and adjust the brake adjuster down so the brake shoes come together and allow the brake drum to fit over the lip as you are pulling off the brake drum. Not only that but, I think it would have been a good idea to explain how much of a pain in the ass it can be to figure out how to back off and adjust the brake adjuster so that it is actually tightening the brake adjuster and collapsing the brake pads / shoes instead of looening it and forcing the brake pads to hug against the brake drum which would make it virtually impossible to remove the brake drum. Also, while you were showing the spindle and the brake parts, you could have explained how this happens by showing the brake pads and the brake drum and discussing this. It's this type of thing that I think should have been explained so people would understand how to deal with this if they had that issue. Next, I think you should have explained how the electric brakes work and what to look for when they have the brake drum off so that they know if there are issues to be aware of while they're doing these repairs so they can make the necessary replacements for parts if they are damaged or worn past the point of safe usable life. If nothing else, actually I think there are a few of these things that could maybe be addressed at the beginning of the video so that people are aware that if they start taking things apart, they may want to have the parts available with them so that they can replace them as needed and if they don't need to replace the parts, they can simply keep the receipt and take the parts back if they are not needed. That way, they are not wasting time while they're doing this bit of maintenance and having to repeat the procedure multiple times. I think you should have explained how the magnets work inside of these types of braking systems and how you need to look for whether or not they are wearing the inside of the brake hub or wearing it too much and what the limits could be as far as what is safe or operational and when they potentially need to be changed. Obviously, some people think that parts need to be changed sooner than others but at the very least, you can explain the operation and how they work and discuss the pitfalls of waiting too long to replace parts so that they end up replacing more parts than necessary and people can make their own judgment call on when they need to have their magnets or brake drums replaced.
I had a few things that I wanted to point out and comment on regarding this video but I don't want you to get the wrong idea because I think that you put out some good content and I think that you're fairly knowledgeable with a lot of things and I believe that your intent is good so please don't misunderstand my concerns with my comments. I have commented on your videos a few times before in the past and I have nothing against you because I think you're a pretty good guy overall and you're really trying to help the RV or camper community as a whole. I understand that a lot of people use their own terminology when referring to things but I really don't think it was a great idea to use the phrase "soft breaking" when referring to loosening the lug nuts of the camper tires. Obviously, everybody is different and has their own ideas on what terms that use but honestly, in my roughly 30 years or more of working on vehicles and other things, I've never heard of somebody referring to loosening the lug nuts as "soft breaking". I'm only suggesting not to use this phrase because it might confuse people that really don't know much about taking off tires or working on things in general. So, my suggestion is to just use the simple common term of loosening a lug nuts but explain why you wouldn't loosen them all the way. Or, you could explain that they could loosen all of them with the exception of two of them as long as the two of them are across from each other and they wouldn't have any issues. Unfortunately, I think you just have to dumb things down for a lot of your viewers or probably the majority of your viewers so using common phrases and terminology is probably the best idea. As far as the rest of the video, I thought it was decent for the most part but there were a few things that I thought you could have improved on and again, it is mainly for the majority of your viewers that are not going to really know squat when it comes to doing these types of repairs or maintenance types of things. For one, I think you need to pretty much explain to people step by step why they need to do certain things in the order that you're explaining them to do them. As an example, I think you should have explained to people why you were having them loosen the lug nuts before jacking up or lifting the camper. Some people might not have any idea why that would be needed because they don't understand that the tire is going to rotate once the camper is lifted in the air and the tires are off the ground and as a result, it is going to be extremely difficult to loosen the lug nuts (by using a socket wrench/ratchet) unless somebody has an impact gun. But also, if somebody does have an impact gun and it at least has a decent amount of torque, they don't need to loosen the lug nuts prior to lifting it off the ground in the first place so that is just wasted time and energy pre loosening (soft breaking) the lug nuts. The impact gun should be able to easily loosen the lug nuts unless for some reason they're on extremely tight which would be a problem in and of itself because then they would be over torqued which is another issue that you should probably explain why it's not good if they are over torqued as well. Obviously, it is easier just to loosen them prior to lifting the tires off the ground if somebody wants to so I'm not saying it's not a good idea to do that to begin with but again, if you have a good impact gun, this is completely unnecessary in almost all cases. Next, I think you should have explained to people that there are sometimes issues with trying to remove the brake drum depending on how old the camper may be or how worn the brake pads (brake "shoes") may be inside the brake drum. Obviously, you guys were working on a fairly new camper so it was probably not going to have issues but often times, when the brake shoes wear down the inside of the brake drum, they can create a lip on on the outer portion of the brake drum and when you are trying to remove the brake drum, it can be extremely difficult to remove the brake drum because it will catch on the brake pads / shoes. People that have hardly any knowledge of working on things (most likely pretty much every viewer that is watching this type of video) doing repairs and maintenance wouldn't have any clue about this but it's definitely something that you want to point out because it's very common when brake pads get worn down. And so, I think you should have explained how people can get their brake drum off when this sort of thing happens. Sometimes it's not that difficult and all you need to do is use a couple big screwdrivers or some pry bars and you can CAREFULLY pry on each side of the brake drum and you will luckily get the brake drum off but other times, you need to actually go on the back side of the brake backing plate / shield and go through the adjustment hole and adjust the brake adjuster down so the brake shoes come together and allow the brake drum to fit over the lip as you are pulling off the brake drum. I like that you explained that the one brake drum seal failed and let all the grease get outside of the brake drum but then unfortunately got inside of where the brakes are so it was not going to allow the brakes to do their job. I just wish you would have went into more detail regarding how the seal works and maybe even showed people by putting the seal over the spindle and then showing them having the seal on the back of the brake drum and explaining how the grease can get through it just so people understand what's going on and why it did what it did. Also, I would have liked to have seen you examine the old seal to see if you could figure out what caused it to fail or what the failure point was. I know you said it but I just think more detail would have helped. Also though, I wish you would have explained to people what they need to look for on a spindle so they know if there are issues to be aware of that can cause the brake hub seal to fail such as scratches or nicks or damage to the spindle. Obviously, a spindle shouldn't typically have damage but you never know if somebody was negligent while doing maintenance and repairs and ended up causing damage to a spindle for whatever reason. Or, if the spindle itself got hot while driving down the road and caused it to get out of round or burn the rubber of the Hub seal itself. Obviously, there could have been a number of reasons. It could have simply been due to either a faulty Hub seal or improper installation. Another thing I wish you would have shown is the grease coming out of the grease hole of the spindle while using a grease gun and explaining to people how the system works so they know how or why they need to grease these greasable spindles. I don't think hardly anybody shows anything like that on RU-vid that I'm aware of so that would have been something interesting for people to see so they can understand the operation. Again, I know that you explained it but seeing it would have been pretty cool in my opinion. Next, I know that you mentioned using brake cleaner to clean up the brakes and get the grease off and that is fine but I think maybe one thing that you might want to recommend is that people would need to be aware that many campsites would probably not allow this to be done at a campground due to the hazardous materials and staining that the brake dust and brake cleaner would leave on the ground after they leave UNLESS they use something to collect any brake dust or chemicals that would be dripping after doing the cleaning. I'm sure a lot of campground owners would not allow this type of stuff to be done on the campground unless they knew that you were going to make sure that you guaranteed that you would not allow any brake dust or brake fluid and chemicals to get on their concrete or dirt or what have you. Obviously, you would want to put down some cardboard or maybe a few pieces of cardboard to make sure that nothing soaked into the ground or concrete. If it's your own driveway and you don't care, obviously that's completely different. Next, one thing I think you should have discussed with the viewers regarding the bearings and races is actually explaining what a race is because a lot of yours probably have no idea what that is. Also, I think you should have explained what they need to look for on the bearings and the race so that they know if either one is in good condition or not. All you mentioned was that the bearings shouldn't be too loose but the problem is, bearings are actually loose by nature so somebody might get a bearing and check it for looseness and think that it's bad when it actually isn't because brand new bearings have a little bit of looseness to them. So, I think you should have explained how somebody can tell if the bearing is too loose or not usable with regards to whether or not the needle bearings themselves are too loose Inside the cage of the bearing itself.
Also, you did not mention that people should be looking for damage to the needle bearings themselves such as pitting or flaking of the bearing material or discoloration due to being extremely hot or other issues such as broken pieces and things of that nature. You really didn't go into much detail in that regard when you were talking about the bearings or the races themselves and I think you really should have discussed that. Also, when packing the bearings, I know that your other helper mentioned just squishing the grease inside the bearings and that's fine because it will probably work fine for most people but you should also just rotate the bearings around in the grease and actually pressing the needles of the bearings in the palm or your hand and making the whole bearing to make sure that they're getting all the grease inside and over and around the needle bearings as well as the cage and the inner race of the bearing itself. And although his method worked fine, I think that he took way longer than was necessary to pack a bearing. That's just my feeling. I'm not trying to be a jerk here and say that his way was wrong because I'm sure it works fine. Something else I think that should have been discussed was looking to make sure whether or not the spindle is damaged and what to look for and explained if the spindle was discolored or if it had pitting itself or flaking or broken pieces or things of that nature. The same thing goes for the brake pads or shoes and explaining what to look for if they are worn or to what level they can be worn so that they are still safe or usable. I don't think you explained very well how to tighten the brake hub assembly and do it properly so that it is not over tightened but also not to loose. The way you explained it is not really that great in my opinion and you really didn't hardly get into any detail to be honest. For one thing, you need to explain to people or show them how you can properly put the brake drum on and explain how the inner bearing can sometimes not fit on the spindle properly so you have to jiggle the brake drum or maneuver it in such a way that it will finally fit on but also not damage the brake Hub seal at the same time as well. But then also, once you have the brake hub on and then you put the outer bearing on, I think you should have explained that they need to make sure that they have all the parts or components going back together properly with typically a washer of some sort over the bearing and then the spindle nut. In some cases, there may actually be multiple washer or a spring washer and there needs to be a certain order to their installation. From there, I think you should have explained that as they are tightening the spindle nut lightly by hand, they should be spinning the brake Hub itself to make sure that the bearings are seating properly. Just putting the brake Hub on and then tightening it and backing it off a quarter turn is not the proper way to properly seat the brake Hub or properly adjust it. Your recommendation can cause the brake Hub to be too loose or not be properly Seated on the spindle. There's obviously a point where you can over tighten the brake Hub and it causes issues and you don't want that as you mentioned because it will cause too much drag. That is true. However, you do not want the spindle nut to be so loose that it then allows the Hub to move back and forth and causes the bearings to have premature failure and causes shuddering or fluttering of the hub assembly as it is rotating going down the road. You want the hub to be rotating as you are tightening the spindle nut and while you are tightening that spindle nut with a wrench by hand, you don't want to over torque it to the point that you were damaging the bearings. Obviously, you would have to put a lot of force on the wrench in order to damage the bearings but you never know who might start to really crank down on the wrench to make sure that they are getting the bearings tight and you don't want that. What people should be doing is spinning that hub back and forth a few times and making sure that it spins nice and free as they are tightening it and then once they get that little bit of drag, they need to just back it off just enough to where they can have the points of the spindle nut cover or castle nut cover fit over that spindle nut and it doesn't allow that nut to be too loose. Saying to back it off a quarter turn is not always the right procedure. Sometimes a quarter turn is actually too much. When you were discussing the grease fitting and the grease coming out, I think you should have shown people when the brake hub was on how the grease starts to come out in the front of the bearings when you do get enough grease in the inner portion of the brake hub assembly around the spindle. You could have done this by showing them prior to putting the spindle cap on. Other than that, I know that you mentioned retorquing the lug nuts after 100 miles of travel but I think you should have explained why that is necessary for aluminum rims and not particularly necessary for steel rims. Long story short, aluminum is softer than steel and expands and contracts more than steel so the lug nuts may not be tight against the aluminum rim due to the expansion and contraction of the aluminum material itself. I know most campers nowadays have some sort of aluminum rim but not all of them do so it's not necessary for every application. Regardless of my thoughts, I thought the video was pretty good overall anyway.
We certainly welcome feedback regarding our content, so your suggestions are completely welcome! If you go back to our earlier videos on the "Path to Maintenance" playlist from our channel, you'll see that we took the approach of trying to make the video a true "how-to" and explain the reasoning behind everything we were doing. To be honest, those videos took a long time to film, weren't very much fun to film and were such a different style than our vlogs, that we made the decision to stop filming true "how-to's". Instead, we decided to take our vlog style approach to these maintenance type videos and lightly touch on the how-to and have it be more about us and what we are doing in the video. We think that when someone is searching for how-to's, they watch several videos on the same subject, and hopefully through watching them all, they get all of the pertinent information they need to do their repair. We hope that by bringing more of our personality to the videos, they understand this isn't the sole video they should watch on how to change your own bearings! As a side note, with your attention to detail, ability to understand and convey the steps to do a job, we think you would have a very successful "how-to" RU-vid channel! You should really consider it! There aren't enough people left in the world with the know how to do a job, much less the know how to do it and explain what and why they are doing what they are doing, as they do it.
@@PavingNewPaths thanks for understanding my concerns and not taking it negatively because my comments were not meant that way. I understand what you're saying about having your channel be more about you than a how to channel and I also agree that if people want to get more in-depth or more thorough with these types of repairs or maintenance things, there are a lot of other videos on RU-vid that can provide a lot more detail. So, I understand what you're saying. As far as me getting a channel going, I thought about it but I don't know. Although I know quite a bit, I also know that there are a lot of good channels out there that have way more knowledge than I do so I kind of think I would maybe be repeating a lot of what other people would have already done. I don't know. At the same time, I guess part of me also thinks that maybe it's not a bad idea to have another Channel just in case for whatever reason some viewers like a certain Channel better than others. Obviously, people like different channels for different reasons so who knows? Unfortunately, as you can tell, I don't do a very good job of being concise so that is something that I have to work on if I want to get a channel going so that I'm not repeating myself and wasting people's time if they are going to watch it. The problem is though, it's hard to cram out all the information into a 5 or 10 minute video when you really need to explain details and it really should be a 15 or 20 minute video or sometimes even longer. Anyway, thanks for your response.
Great video! My one thing to add is to always check your suspension. I have always did my bearing and check my my brakes every year. I did not know the suspensions can wear out so badly. I happened to break a leaf spring, lucky it was when I was backing my trailer into the yard. When I took the suspension apart it was totally worn out. The shackles were ready to break and the axle equalizer was worn out. The parts from factory are cheap and should be replaced with heavy duty parts. Please make sure everybody knows how to check their suspension. THIS COULD SAVE SOMEONES LIFE OR A BAD ACCIDENT!
Thanks for the suggestion! We do all the proper maintenance and inspections on our rigs! Just because you didn't see us do it in a video doesn't mean we don't do it! We film videos about things we think are entertaining and can be helpful for others! Some subjects we don't feel will make a good video so we simply don't film those!
I stopped doing that task when we went fulltime and it meant having to do it in a RV park. BUT now that we have purchased a chunk of land and put a RV pad on it I will probably change my ways again.
We have done it on ours in RV parks several times, but you have to ask and then they sometimes don't like to see tires coming off of a Rig for any kind of work! That is why we try to schedule ours every time we are home for the holidays! Then we can use family land to get it done if the RV park says no!
Great video and well done. I bet packing on your rig is boring and monotonous. Hahaha Off Topic have you towed on the Million Dollar Highway or similar road? Would you tow on that road? If so it would be a good video
Thanks! We have been on the million dollar highway without the RV you can check that video out here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AqNTA-9OxSg.html
Here in DFW they call Winter "Stock Show" weather. Every year the nasty weather comes in during the Fort Worth Stock Show. It arrives the weekend of 1/12/24....
@@PavingNewPaths next week is 31 years for us and the storm is just the excuse to go to the Keys for a week. Everyone needs to learn how to do the basics on not only the trailer but the tow rig as well. My earliest memory is walking around my dad's rv business. Grow up working in that environment. 90% of maintenance and repairs can and should be done by a owner.
Just like any hydraulic, use a jack stand. A failed rubber seal from an accident Just 2 size bearing seals for towables. Boat seals are different He has self adjusting brakes. But if you don’t they need adjusted. I don’t recommend using the easy lube, unless you take the cap off and rotate as you lube and clean up the excess. If you pump a bunch of grease without rotating tire you lube 1 channel. The grease does not flow into bearings it doesn’t get hot enough. Ez lube can blow out the seal too Don’t drop the bearing. If the cage bends you need new Don’t fill the cavity with grease it’s not a boat. The extra grease does nothing Check the brake function. Amp draw or lock up, pull the breakaway. Put a piece of metal on the magnet. A rusty drum is a sure sign of a broken wire or bad magnet I give you a thumbs up but 1 Use a jack stand 2 don’t fill the hub with grease 3 check each brake function It does take 2-1/2 hours on average Unit swap, getting parts, some are a pain to get off the ground even in a shop, lubing wet bolts, adjusting brakes, 1 guy cleaning and packing, inspection of bearings, brakes, shackles, axle, cleaning up blown out grease seals. A well maintained is usually less but the one that’s over due by 5 years can be much longer Another small note if you need backing plates some have different bolt patterns, and LCI and Dexter don’t always line up but some do
Another great video on DIY.... I remember as a kid helping my dad repack wheel bearings...we didn't use latex gloves!!! Hoping one day in our RV travels that we cross paths...it would be awesome to meet you in person!!! Can't wait to see your repair video and picture before and after you clean things up in basement area. Good luck!!
When I had my travel trailer I always packed my own. With my bigger 5th wheel I started doing my own after trying Camping World service. They put barely a teaspoon of grease on the bearings and two to the bearings seized and flat spotted my tires. I had been having my dealer do them for a while but was a lot farther distance to travel so had tried Camping World on a whim and what a mistake. It's like Phil says, it's easy to do and just squish those bearings full of grease. Really concerns me when I hear of people shooting a lot of grease in using the zerk fittings on the axle because when often happens is the grease shoots past the back grease seal and gets all over the brake linings. And you haven't inspected the quality of the bearings.
We believe in packing your own, not only is it an easy job, it gives you a chance to learn your rig! We have used the EZ lube zerk before while on the road but only because we understand how it works and how to do it properly! It was also not taking place of the annual service but just a way to move some fresh grease into the system after several months of hard travel!
Well ! I see all these comments crazy 🤪 people are special! Thank you for reminding me how great it can be just helping some one out ! That are appreciative! Even though you’re doing videos. You also care about others. And help them out ! I loved listening to older generations myself you can learn a lot. Yes Phil you’re a good old boy ! Like you said I hope Phil can be a part of more Videos. Families that play together stay together. I’d say you’re lucky to have yours around you ! Savor it’s little dab of Phil in your videos will do you good. hehehehe Last but not least stay true to you ! You’re a good dude ! Ask your wife 😉
We love to help others out and doing it as a family only makes it better! We appreciate you watching and stay tuned now that the RV is broken we will be a very family involved channel for a while!
You're so welcome! Not everyone agrees with this technique, but we think it's just fine as long as you are only taking one wheel off on each side at a time!
Fun video. Laughed at Phil's comment about injectiing grease into joints. My mom had some "lubricant" injected into her knees. She has a lot less pain and able to move much better.f
We are glad you enjoyed the video! Phil had a lot of funny things to say on this video! Glad your mom has less pain after the injections! Phil was on to something!
Its nice that you are spreading the word and helping people out. I just fixed the lift mechanism in my door and saved about 700 dollars in exchange for a few hours I had to spare. You can do a lot more than you realize with RU-vid or a good hearted person to help.
We just hate to see people throw their money away and give it to these companies who are taking advantage of them! So instead of doing it for them, I show them they can do it themselves and it's not actually as hard as the dealership would have you believe!
Degreasing Metal Surfaces Mineral spirits dissolves petroleum-based oils and grease, allowing it to be used for cleaning metal components and equipment.
The hitch rotates side to side and front to back the jacks are holding the rv up the truck is just there to be a safety if the jacks fail! we are also not lifting the entire rv off the ground just one side enough for the tires to clear the ground! You can do it without the truck as well but his truck was already hooked up!
$650 to clean, inspect and repack bearings?? That's crazy! This is one of those PITA jobs that are mostly just a nuisance -- in this case jacking tires off the ground. But I can tolerate that much of a nuisance for $650. Also, Phil is the best! I hope he's as cool in person as he is in the vids.
Good job a little dab will do you. Came from Brilcreme it was for men hair. It came in a tube like toothpaste. Once my mom made a mistake and used it for toothpaste yuck. lol
And store that sells Trailer parts, like axles, jacks, tires and wheels! They usually sell gooseneck and utility trailers, these places will sell you the parts far cheaper than any RV dealer!
I love watching you stuff. However those brake shoes with grease on them should have been replaced. The grease gets embedded into the brake material and you can’t clean them. The correct way is to replace them.
Good idea on the greasing Phil. Years ago I knew this man who had knee replacement surgery and when they would hurt, I kid you not he would spray WD 40 on his knees and he swore it helped. 🤷 seriously. Great video fellas. ❤❤❤
Teamwork makes the dream work. You 3 should take your bearing squishing on the road. You tell phil I’ll pay him 600 to do mine. He just has to come to Michigan.😉🤣
Thanks so much! Phil definitely brings the humor to our channel! Stay tuned because we have some really funny bits with him coming up soon in our future videos.
Good vlog....Because of the brake dust and dirt/grease your removing with the brake cleaner I would usually lay some old cardboard under the spindles and drums to catch the run off and not stain the cement you are letting it run off on too. Yes, I do it myself.
What a fun way to make a boring subject (to Ang), fun to watch! But still informative! Great job! We giggled at Phil’s loose glove finger! I think he had too much fun squishing the grease! 😂
There is bearing packers at Harbor Freight if you have problems doing by hand. Note you can not clean brake shoes enough with brakeclean , you must replace shoes. What you do on one side do the same to the other.
We feel doing it by hand gives you more time to inspect and you can ensure you are properly greasing them! It is also a lost art that most don't do anymore!
Did you change the brakes that had grease on them dexter told me to change the brakes. Said they would eventually the brake material would brake down from the grease and the solvent used to cleaoff grease. As well as there like a sponge and the grease would soak into them and not real ever clean off or out of the material. Just curious would you did
@PavingNewPaths yeah thats true I just wasn't sure what best practice was. I know if my truck brakes are soaked in grease or oil for some reason I'm replacing them.
It's up to what you feel best about doing! Most if not all shops, will try to sell you because they can but if you say no and the pads are still good they will simply degrease them and install them back on!
Thanks for a great video. I appreciate that very much by the 2016 Sandpiper 371REVH hardly used and now I know how to pack the bearings for them camper because I’m assuming they’ve never been done since it’s hardly been used and I appreciate it very much. Won’t do it now it’s only 2° outside.
That would be a good way to make money while home for the holidays. Let followers come down with our own rigs and we pay Kevin teach us to do these things for ourselves. He could just step in when we all have questions. I would rather pay to learn than just keep paying for someone else to do it.
We have actually talked about that, have Phil and his chair there for supervision and we can help teach someone a new skill that will educate them and save them money!
@PavingNewPaths That would be amazing. I have all girls. I have always been a single mom, and told my girls, we can do anything on our own. I would love for my girls to do this with me. My kids are seriously the coolest people. We have learned everything together. I'm sad my older 3 are grown and moved out. This would be an epic family reunion trip, though. I bet they would come with me.
Lol... Phil had my hubs laughing out loud with his squishing technique and jokes. We pack our own too. BrillCream! A little Dab 'll do ya! You're a good teacher, Kevin!
I wish Kevin would have shown how they ran the grease through. How do you set the tension? I’m here to learn! I refuse to pay for bs if I can do it myself. We had several problems we fixed ourselves along the way using RU-vid university. Lol
I used to show every step but got tired of arguing with all the RU-vid experts! So now I show an overview, if you need specific help on anything reach out to us on messenger or email and we can help you with whatever you are dealing with!
There are really inexpensive tools for greasing bearings that do a miluch better job of packing the bearings before putting them on the spindles. Love doing bearings until you have to chisel one off. I have done thousands of them and cut a few hundred off too lol
There is no substitute for doing things by hand! Not only will you ensure the bearings are properly greased it gives you a chance to properly inspect them!
@PavingNewPaths you inspect them before packing them. The bearing packing tools can get more grease in than hand packing does. Been packing bearings since 1967. I have seen hand packed bearings fail because you can't press enough grease in by hand and it leaves air pockets no matter how hard you try.
Thanks so much for your kind words and good luck wishes! We love having Phil in the videos as you never know what he will say or do! Whatever it is, it's always funny!
Another simple method to setting the wheel bearing nut back on the spindle amd bearing is to use a torque wrench i love this video kev definitely want to see more of this i love DIY !!!!!!!
We just filmed a video yesterday of me and Phil changing out a pinion seal, and all new rotors and brakes on a family members truck! It a little bit of work and a little bit of fun!
Nice, informative video. My problem is that I have downsized so much that I do not have ANY of the tools needed for maintenance like that anymore. And I don't want to buy all the tools again needed for that and other tasks.
You can also add anything boating twice the price also! Owning many boat trailers that get dunked in saltwater, you almost become an expert on trailer/axel/springs/bearings repair! We’ve got a big cross country trip coming up in May so repacking the bearings is on the “to do” list.
man you guys completely lured me into this video. I thought you meant don't waste your money on rv's cause of the frame flex issue. still loved the content. greetings from freezing germany (-7°C/19°F)
That type of video will probably be coming very soon! We don't want another person to be lured by the bells and whistles of these RV's when the frames are underengineered junk! You must be sending some of that weather here because we are getting a cold snap on Monday!
Also checking for heavy discoloration of the bearings and the spindle is also something too look for when inspecting the bearings and spindle its a sogn of high wheel bearing temperatures lol they also have a bearing repacker you can bye cheap enough if your not interested in doing the hand repack method
This is why we believe you should do this job yourself! It gives you a chance to inspect everything and you can start to see wear patterns and issues before they happen! We also feel repacking by hand give you a chance to continue the inspection while greasing and you can fully ensure it is done correctly!
This is a technique that has almost been lost since since the use of wheel hubs on vehicles. If you want to save even more money get the numbers off the seal and bearings and go to your local bearing supply store, you may see even a 50% cheaper price from the trailer shop price. So the best thing that can be said is well done on showing how to do routine maintenance at more then half the cost, the more you do the better you will have for the feel of your rig when something is off..
We believe in the old ways of doing everything by hand, what is the rush to get the job done if you aren't properly inspecting and greasing your bearings! Almost all of the time what every they quote you to do a job you can do yourself for about 25% of the cost! Unless specialty tools are involved then sometimes it makes sense to let them do it!
Thank you! I feel most people just think it is a dauting task because of what they charge you to do it! Maybe me and Phil should start a traveling team where we come and show people how to do it themselves!
@@PavingNewPaths you’re correct. It does seem daunting for the first timer, but with the advancement of RU-vid University, tasks like this are educating us newbies out there. I just had to replace 3 out of 4 brake assemblies due to faulty wiring and videos like this made it so I could do it myself. Thanks again.
We as a society have gotten into the habit of paying for conveniences. But, you can save a lot of money if you just spend a little time and effort working on things yourself!
At the risk of dating myself Bryl cream had the jingle " a little dab will do you". Yes Kevin that was before your time referring to a hair gel for men lol.
Glad you guys made this. I’ll have to do mine for the first time next spring. I did have dealer put fresh grease in before I took delivery in December of 22 and last year only did about 3500 miles with my RV. Basically Michigan City to Sturgis, SD and back plus MC to Indianapolis one time. Hoping to do way more RVing next year including a return to Sturgis
Add bearing buddies to your RV if it doesn't have them already can definitely be a great way to maintain the proper amount of grease in-between service intervals
Under the right applications and circumstances, I would say they are great choice! But given how many of these seals are always blown out I would be cautious about adding them!
Absolutely 💯% if the seals leaking bearing buddies are definitely not going to help but for the time in-between being able to pump a few squirts of grease in them the common mistake I see Alot is over greasing the bearing and caused the grease to come right out of the seal and actually blow the seal right out
Actually fuel is not flammable unless put under pressure or put on a hot fire. It reacts the same way as the oil in your engine. Gas is flammable but the key word is the fumes are just like propane. So is all products in a can that are use 😉😉😉 even the grease is flammable 🤷🏻♂️😉🤣 wow the humans on earth today sure amazing how much they don’t use there brain.🤦🏻♂️ your hub, spinal and bearing should never be hotter then you can touch in the first place. If they get that hot bearings and races are junk.
