I purchased two preowned hazmat lockers. One for primers and bullets the other for powder. They each use a golden rod to counter humidity and a small dedicated ac. They are vented by design.
I use an IP65 rated RIDGID Cold Box [i.e. - sealed, water/dust resistant, ice cooler] to store my ammo in, to mitigate temperature fluctuation, and seal the ammo in from the outer air moisture. I have been thinking of applying white bed liner to the out side of it as to insulate the cooler even more. Nice to learn it is static free, thanks for that info. I got a ZARPAX Rechargeable Desiccant Dehumidifier Bag to place in the cooler, to try and get the humidity around 30% or less, to keep the sealed in air as dry as possible . I also ordered a ThermoPro TP357 Digital Hygrometer/Thermometer with Bluetooth to place inside the cooler as well so I can use the Smart App on my phone to monitored the temp and humidity within, without having to open the lid and let air exchange bring more moisture into the box. This way I'ld know if and when the humidity rises to above my preferred 30%, of which I'd recharge the desiccant bag and start again. Yet I figure being there couldn't be any air migration in and out of the IP65 rated RIDGID Cold Box it should not gain more moisture, other than unless I open the lid. So basically as long as I put fresh recharged desiccant bags in and latch the lid down I'd be good to relax without worry. And I'ld easily be able to check the conditions within the box at any time without having to open the lid and let air exchange take place, until the app says the batteries are getting low. Hoping this was as good as, if not better, than the plug and play dehumidifiers, for long term storage. First, I placed a ThermoPro TP357 Digital Hygrometer/Thermometer with Bluetooth within the ammo storage box (i.e.- IP65 rated RIDGID Cold Box [sealed, water resistant, ice cooler]. Then I reduced the humidity from 52% within the ammo storage box, by heating it up inside with an electric heater blowing into it, until the ThermoPro TP357 Digital Hygrometer/Thermometer had a reading of 22% Humidity, and latched the lid down, whereby sealing it. Over the next 12 hours the humidity rose up to 34%, and continued to rise over the next 6 days to 42%. At this point, I opened the lid and reheated the inside of the box, whereby lowering the humidity level down to 19%, tossed one ZARPAX Rechargeable Desiccant Dehumidifier Bag inside, and latched the lid shut again. Over the next 3 hours the humidity level rose to 25%, and over the next 32 hours the humidity lowered gradually to 21%, and h held steady there for 3 days. The humidity outside had been fluctuating between 52-99%, and inside it was between 39-57% during the test period. I had also done the exact same thing with three "RIDGID 2.0 Pro Gear System Power Tool Cases", and they too are steadily maintaining low humidity levers as well. I use one to store my Chronograph, one to store my reloading tools, and one to store my reloading supplies [powder, primers, bullets, cases, etc..*. So this definitely seemed to be an excellent long term storage system. Of coarse if I open the lids on a day with high humidity I would have to re-lower the humidity within the boxes before latching them shut again, but I am thinking if I open the lids on a day that has less humidity, than what they retain at the time, then I could simply skip the heating process and just simply latch the lids down and be good to go again. The "ZARPAX Rechargeable Desiccant Dehumidifier Bags" haved definitely made a difference at lowering the humidity, but perhaps over a longer period of time they may become saturated to the point that the humidity levels within the boxes will begin to rise, of which I would simply have to recharge them at such a point. One way or the other this seed to be an excellent way to stave off the effects of humidity. Again, only the "test of time" will tell. So I will try and give periodic reports, as well as the years end statistics. As mentioned above, I had placed my ammo in an IP65 rated RIDGID Cold Box [i.e. - sealed, water resistant, ice cooler] to store my ammo in, to mitigate temperature fluctuation, and seal the ammo in from outer air moisture, and also lowered the humidity down to 30% or less with desiccant packs. Then after watching two videos on RU-vid I did more research and came across an article that explained 100% exactly what the videos attempted to address. The information in the following article can also be found in the "Norma Reloading Manual - Pression Reloading Guide For The Professional Shooters, Edition 1". Moisture Affect Ammunition In The Tests: · Short term exposure for 10 minutes or less saw no effect on performance. · Long term exposure, 24 hours, affected most ammunition in one way or another. · Generally, high moisture effects manifested in misfires and reduced velocity, and lower moisture levels resulted in elevated velocities as well as dangerous high pressures. “Variations in moisture content change the burning rate of a powder and thereby chamber pressures and muzzle velocity. The moisture content of the N100 and N300 series powders is usually around 1 %, the N500-series’ normal moisture content is 0.6 % because of the added nitroglycerine. So what difference does moisture content have? Here’s an example. In a test, a powder sample was dried by heating it, losing about 0.5 % of its weight. Cartridges were then loaded with the dried powder and fired using a pressure gun. Chamber pressures and muzzle velocities produced by these special cartridges were compared to those produced by cartridges loaded with untreated powder. (The powder charge and bullet were of course the same in both sets of cartridges.) Comparing results showed chamber pressures increased from 320 MPa to 355 MPa with the dried powder, and the muzzle velocity increased accordingly from 770 m/s to 790 m/s (2526 to 2592 fps). And note, this is only one example, of one caliber and loading. The difference might be much higher depending on the cartridge and loading combinations. What does this tell us? Well, it seems we need to forget the old saying “Keep your powder dry”! Instead, focus on proper powder storage, at a temperature below 68°F and humidity between 55-65 %.!” And right after reading the article I IMMEDIATELY opened the cooler, took the desiccant pack out and will be getting a humidor that regulates between 40-50% humidity, as well explained in the article in the link below (A MUST MUST READ on this subject). www.vihtavuori.com/know-powder-moist-content/ Come to find out, powder manufacturers seal the powder containers in a 40-50% humidity level so the powders will hold their .1 - .06% humidity levels, as this is the best humidity levels for ignition of the powders. And powder if not tightly sealed during storage or rounds if not sealed after being made, will wick in the higher levels of moister whereby causing the powder to ignite slower, or if the humidity out side lower than 40-50% then the humidity can wick out of the rounds whereby casing the powder to become more violent with higher unsafe pressures. From that day forward I'll not only will be storing my ammo at 40-50% humidity, but my powders and primers to boot! The answer to the question is: "ALWAY STORE AMMO, POWDERS, AS WELL AS PRIMERS @ A CONSTANT 40-50% HUMITY with temps steady and under 70degrees F as much as possible!" Think of it this way, rounds that are assembled with powder that has a lower humidity level than 40-50% WILL be over pressured because the powder is too dry and will burn hotter than what the load data shows, and powders that are loaded when having a higher humidity level will be weaker than the load data shows. This is because the powder burn rates, as well as charge weights, are calibrated when the air in the room is at a 40-50% humidity level. Oh, and as far as higher temperatures go they also will cause irreversible deterioration of the gun powder. This could very well be why ammo shot on cold days have a lower velocity level than ammo shot on hot days. The theory is that when the ammo is cold the humidity that is trapped within the case gets soaked up by the powder making it ignite slower, and when the rounds are exposed to high heat, and especially direct sun light the humidity evaporates out of the powder whereby resulting in higher velocities. So it is pertinent to store ammo at steady temperatures, no more than 70 degrees F @ 40-50% humidity for the health of the ammo, the shooter, and by innocents standers.
Primers in original packaging with date of purchase noted on each brick. Whea a brick is opened, it's moved to storage on the bench. Powder stays in original containers with date of purchase and date opened noted. Primers in wooden cabinet, powder on shelf under bench. Room is conditioned like home.
I store my primer bricks in a Husky 12 in. 9-Compartment Waterproof Storage Bin from Home Depot because it fits 3 bricks. The individual flats I use the water tight (gasketed) plastic boxes they have in the camping section. For my reloading dies, and all my other tools I use various Plano Waterproof Stowaways in a size that is proper for the tooling.
Primers and Black Powder Class A explosive, smokeless powder class B, you wanna be safe be safer seperate primers to a smaller cooler keep in different area also,
You can store your primers in zip lock bags for better moisture proofing or use a seal a meal machine for best moisture prevention. You cam also add desiccant packs with the two options I mentioned. Also an old broken refrigerator is a good way to store powder & primers. The door will stay closed and will not try to contain an explosion during a fire. Just DON'T store in lockable metal storage canisters / military ammo cans!!
Not using any common sense. You NEVER STORE EXPLOSIVES IN THE SAME STORAGE CONTAINER AS FLAMMABLES EVER. good job on the cooler and excellent job on showing just exactly how not to store reloading components
...I keep my powders in a large...LARGE GI ammo can..actually a mortar round can...I keep all my reloaded ammo in GI am.omcans...inside 100 round freezer type ziplocs...I live in So Florida
Their is a set really good recommendations on powder storage both small and large amounts of both. I found this information from the nation fireman's organization or something like that, I don't remember their actual name. I'm old and forgot.No more than 50 pounds in small magazine storage. If more then should be in a separate building. Black powders should always be stored in a separate building than your home if possible and kept cool and in dryer conditions. It's for fire safety mainly. Originally a box built with minimum of 1 inch of wood and top that will release under a very small amount of pressure. The nominal 1 inch is for burn thru time and inside temperature control. Powder magazines need to slow down the temperature and keep the inside cooler than the outside for at least 30 minutes. There is also a recommendation on no more than 5000 be stored together on shelf and I can't remember the magazine recommendations. And you should never change the containers the powder came in. I'm sure some of this has changed sense I first checked into it over 30 years and I'm positive that'll I'll be told I'm wrong on all of it by someone.
Preserving your supplies is important but safety is #1 priority. You can get some really big metal ammo cans pretty cheap. I have 2 for my powder, i keep 1 lb of each in one and all my extra in the second. That way all my extra is in a container that gets opened very seldom. I have a 3rd for primers.
Sounds good . I feel that powder should not be stored in a metal can just because of the potential of the lack of expansion if ignited. We all have things that work for us that other would not agree with. I think i will put my primers in a small plastic ammo can. Thanks for the input.
