STREET PHOTOGRAPHY SETTINGS - how to set up your camera for street photography 

Finally a channel that explains and teaches you about photography from an old school master who is speaking from experience instead of hearing younger RU-vid’s who typically are either trying to promote equipment or sell you skillshare. Not to say I don’t appreciate their take on street photography, but as a 48 year old I don’t need to hear fluff, I would prefer to listen to straight up, get to the point discussions about the art of photography that I love. This channel gives you that. It’s honest and raw 👍

a pleasure listening to a pro who is not telling about birds shooting with huge lens. Thank you Sir

GOOD EXPLANATION AND YOU SPEAK VERY GENUINELY ON YOUR EXPERIENCE

Good video, plenty of good info. Thanks for sharing Brian.

Excellent tips, Brian, and I'm glad you're having a video coming for zone and back-button focusing. Thanks!

Thank you doing this video. The zone/manual focus tip is really enlightening. Something I must delve into more.

I'd like to thank you very much for this video! I'm trying to change a bit more in my photographic style these days and your approach on keeping the aperture at f8 an focus manual via zone focus to keep all the context information alive sounds really worth to try! I like the idea of leaving all that focus-point-fiddeling behind and concentrate on the concrete scene instead. Great idea! Thank you, thank you, thank you :)

Great to have found your channel Brian. So much of what you have to say really clicks with me - pun intended. I'll be back for more!

Thank you … easy to understand. I’ve just set my camera up using this method … can’t wait to get out there

Excellent video. Great to hear your perspective. Thank you so much.

That was absolutely wonderful video presentation. It was filled with lots of practical information for setting up my camera for street photography. Thank you very much.😊

Another great and valuable video, great job👊.I have known my settings for a long time and it is the priority of the aperture with manual ISO settings, but even so, this video is very educational.

i will try to make a practice following the given setting sir - appreciate for your information and your experience is priceless.

Great tips as always, thanks! When I am on the streets with my X100v (35mm or 28mm equivalent), I set time on 1/200-1/500 s, focusing manual using zone focus, and use auto-ISO. Nothing better and faster than that, provided light is not changing too much. I still can use the exposure compensation if necessary. Very much as you propose.

I greatly enjoy and appreciate your Street Photography videos. Thank you so much....

ABSOLUTELY LOVE THE INFORMATION! I'm a photojournalist here in Chicago, and I never stop learning about improving my street photography...again thanks!

Really looking forward to more vids….. great source of knowledge…. Ty

Fantastic! Just what I was looking for.

Thank you sir for your wise advice! ❤

Back button focus has been a revelation for me. Actually I wish there was a trigger on the front grip for focusing. That would be even better.

Thanks Brian very informative going to have a go at this 👍

Just started back button focusing on my x-pro 3 for street and LOVE IT!

Excellent.Many thanks !

Brian I have learned so much in this 20 min video. So thanks very much. I am looking forward to using these techniques… I am receiving my X100T tomorrow stepping up from my beginner Canon 200d. Watch out Manchester Christmas markets for some great street photography 😂🎉

Thank you for this useful video. I usually use the same settings on my X100V: aperture priority, F8, ISO auto and 1/200 or 1/250 for shutter speed. But instead of using the exposure compensation dial on the top of the camera, i do prefer to set it on C and then set my exposure compensation with the front command dial. I think it's better and easier for my fingers.

Thank you. Really helpful 👌

thank you for this youtube channel!

Hey! How's it going? I just wanted to swing by and give you a big shoutout for your latest video. Seriously, it was such a game-changer for me and I learned so much from it! Your content is always top-notch and I can tell you really pour your heart and soul into everything you share with us. Grettings from Spain. I hope you're having an awesome day and keep up the amazing work!

Interesting video, Brian. I hope you do make a follow up that goes more into detail on zone focusing. The ability to divert the mental effort otherwise devoted to focusing toward composition and timing sounds like a dream. I will have to try it. I'm a big fan of Fuji, having owned the X-T1, X-T2, and X-T3. That said, I've found shooting street using AF with an R5 is orders-of-magnitude easier than any Fuji body. Continuous AF is vastly more reliable, as is Canon's Eye Tracking AF. But what really sets the R5 apart is its ability to use _dual_ back button AF. One button can be configured to focus in the traditional way on whatever is under the focus point(s). The other can be configured to use Eye AF-either on the subject under your focus point or the closest subject in a scene or a moveable zone. This is really a game changer for situations where manual zone focus may not work as well (e.g., wider apertures and longer focal lengths). With a well lit scene, you don't even need to look through the viewfinder to know that your subject's eyes will be in focus, assuming that your subject is the closest person to you within your scene or chosen zone. This is still not as easy as manual zone focusing in many situations but it's pretty cool nonetheless. Finally, as a professional video editor I have to ask: What camera were you using that was constantly popping in and out of focus? Was it another Fuji? I hope not but I fear otherwise. 🙂

Excellent advice Brian ..x

Best video on Aperture Priority I have seen..

Thanks for getting back to me. I'm learning much from your videos. I'm at the start of preparing a street photography panel for an RPS fellowship and your video on projects was exactly what I needed. I've ordered your street photography assignment book but I live in France and the cost of postage is more than the price of the book! Stay well.

Excellent information and way to configure the camera for street photography, the clarity of its exposure resolved some doubts and left me ready to return to the street. Greetings, see you soon

Very cool, thanks!

Great information/video I hope it will not take as long until upload a follow up video!

Excellent video

Thank you for explaining how you use manual focus and zone focusing. I knew there had to be a better way! : )

Great video. Very valuable for a learner like me. I am looking forward to the video on Zone focussing, as my Sony APS-C lenses don't have a distance scale on them. At the moment, I set my camera at F8 on a 28mm lens and pre-focus at a distance of 3m. The exposure comp has been a real revelation for me. I mostly shoot in Aperture priority now. Thanks again for the videos.

Thanks!

Good video. Thanks

great tips, thank you very much I will be trying your set up next time i am out shooting

Great content I'm fairly new to street photography but I do really enjoy it and these are great tips for me 👍

So very well done sir! Thank you. A new happy subscriber. Jp

2:27 what a capture

excellent advise , thanks 👍👍👍👍

Thank You Sir!!!

I'm doing the thing with exposure compensation as well, thats Amazing

Awesome tips buddy , really very useful one for me , wishes from India 🇮🇳

Thank you, you've given me so much that makes sense! Do you do any NY workshops? Take care Brian.

You said it, there is no right or wrong way, once you have taken many shots and find your way for success! With Micro Four Thirds cameras, the f8 range of your APS-C camera can now drop to f4 for everything in focus, though it is great on up to f8 on most lenses. Diffraction on MFT kicks in on some lenses after f8. I will have to try light compensation, with light to the back, more than the 1/3rd I was using, but unlike APS-C sensors if an area is too much underexposed I get noise -- yep, unlike my APS-C and FF cameras. What I found on the street however, is the beauty of 4:3 ration of MFT cameras, and fast and accurate focusing on Lumix and Olympus, no matter what the RU-vidrs say -- contrast detect works. Actually, I do reposition the focus area where I predict the subject will be in the frame, choosing a backdrop area which will be correct for a real street shot -- not a bokeh monster. The Lumix, GX-9 screen is super responsive, with a light tap the focus point resets, though you can also slide the finger. To mix things up you can use other aperture settings to get something in-between blur and sharp in the background, which would be f4, f5.6, or 6.3 on APS-c. And yes, I understand that your zone focusing would be wrong -- not work in such a case. People like to say FF is the way for shallow depth of field, and they are right for portraits, and they tend to take loads of portraits on the street instead of street photography. Instead of f4 or f5.6 they got it wide-open to f1.4 or f1.8 which is great if you care to get a nose, or an eye, or a set of glasses in focus :)) With FF, to get your f8, you need f11 or better. But like anything else, now and then wide open, or nearly so just works, and of course the lens in use -- is it wide or tele? My minimum shutter speed is 1/400s on my Lumix, and on some of my cameras 1/500, though I guess I could drop it to 1/250 if available as an option. Some camera do NOT offer a minimum shutter speed, thus you can use Shutter Priority of 1/400, give or take, maybe 1/320s is available. On an MFT -- no problem with this.... usually. Even a fast f1.8 setting, and some distance from subject still gives some background detail -- some. The 1/400s will usually work if someone moves a hand quickly, or you snap a shot of a passing bike, whereas I had times with issues in the 1/200s range. With my faster lenses, I can open up a bit and get faster shutter speeds if something like a motorbike is passing, if I have the time. Another consideration on street shooters is to find cameras with tilt-only, when possible. My Canon RP has the swivel - flip out thing -- don't like that. And the focusing has a tendency to not focus on something moving by, when on single-shot, and after it hesitates, ends up missing focus or of course find a wrong spot to focus on. I am no fan of Dual-Pixel focusing. It works until it doesn't. The RP is better in low-light. My Nikon, cheapie D3500 has good dynamic range. Overall, for the street, I am liking Lumix and Olympus for all the other qualities. - Take care, Loren Schwiderski

Good tips and tutorial. Just subscribed.

Nice video. I find that f6.4 and 1/500 sec work well to ensure that any motion is usually stopped in well-lit scenes.

Interesting advice. This afternoon I was shooting fishermen at a salmon run, shifting between shooting upstream into the sun and downstream which was much darker. I should have used your settings suggestions to avoid missing the action.

Set and settings can be a bit of an iron cage, mitigating contingent factors like exposure, ISO, focus, but fiddling with the dials can bring about welcomed and unexpected results which is not a bad thing.

Hello thanks ofr a great video I need help finding the video on Zone Focus you mention.

Excellent explanation of set up. The only exception for me is that I don't trust my vision to detect sharp focus. Back button focus give me more assurance.

I have also learned to use Sunny 16 rule: f/16 when sunny day, f/4 when cloudy. ISO whatever required/wanted and shutter speed closest to ISO. Example for cloudy day: ISO 125, SS 1/125, f/4, adjust either ISO or SS if too dark.

Merci Monsieur !

I set my x100 f @ f8 ss 500, and my iso I set with the little wheel at front of the camera. Depending on the light. This is my base setting for street.

pretty helpful Brian, thanks. Unfortunately canon m50 doesn't have a minimum - max iso setting or s/speed as you first mentioned. I kinda must be manual because it's a very sensitive camera from 1000 iso and after.

Thanks for this vdieo

This is a timely video for me as I haven't done much photography over the past 2 years and just started getting back out. Unfortunately I forgot what I was using in the past. Also just found your channel and going through the archives. Lots of great videos. Greetings from Toronto.

Nice shirt, man.

Great video! If you are talking about f8 is that in full frame terms? I use a mft camera. Would I get the same depth of field with f4?

Auto-focus I don't have I use only legacy lens. I take time to adjust and to compose, try to avoid snapping, cropping. Only in the wild west would I try to be the faster shooter. It's my evolution, in the past I was also a snapper. it's a way of resisting this frenetic, hyper-active, crazy media world which is constantly accelerating.

For Street, I am using the Sony A7C with the Tamron 20-40/2.8. My standard settings are ISO 100-12.800, Shuter speed not below 1/250s und Apeture of 4,0. The A7C has an excellent AF incl Face und AyeAF and Real Time Tracking (RTT), I don't need to work with zone focus, the AF gets the target always. Its a very powerful combo for street!

Good morning. On cloudy days, do you under expos your image with aperture mode using the exposure compensation dial and how many stops is perfect, like a half, 1 stop, or two stops? Thank you.

With F8 on a FF i easily get to iso 12800 (which was maximum allowed) during the mid day in areas not very lit.

The Fuji XT4 has a button on the front which I’ve set to focus📷👍🏼

What do you use for your dynamic range? 100? Auto? I understand it the dynamic range sitting on Fujis effects the JPEG AND RAW.

It's funny that for street photography we have to choose settings that essentially turn our camera into a "point and shoot" system. But it works quite well, eliminating all distractions and allowing us to focus on the essentials: framing. My only small reservation compared to what is proposed in the video is multi metering. Often the cmera is much too smart for me, so often I prefer the center weighted metering. With the EVF or EVF recall in the OVF, we have everything we need to control the exposure.

Yes, you’re right, it has been too long. But as always, you never disappoint!!! Well done and keep up the great job you’re doing!!!!!

Fuji makes it very easy to use compensation by keeping a traditional dial. Nikon and others, when they moved to dslr, change this to buttons and wheels, which makes it harder to coordinate on the fly.

Many thanks Brian for this lucid and necessary guide. I'm looking closely at the Fuji X-pro 3 but am concerned about the lack of ICS. Has this every been a problem for you - do you have a workaround? Maybe the Fuji XT5 would serve me equally well for street photography? Stay well.

很棒的分享赞👍

J'utilise les mêmes réglages que vous sur mon X100V. Cependant, je vais essayer le manual focus pour éviter comme vous le dîtes le fait de mettre le sujet sur le carré vert et ensuite de recadrer. Merci pour le conseil.

Waiting for the zone focusing video, thanks!

I've only been shooting for just over a year, but I've developed my own settings system for street photography. I use exclusively vintage glass, so it's manual for me. But I have my shutter speed set to 500 or sometimes higher if it's windy. My ISO is auto with a max of 3200. And for street I keep the aperture around f/8 and then tweak quickly as needed. It's essentially the same as aperture priority in practice and I know my main lenses so I can usually change aperture without taking my eye away from the viewfinder- or screen if I am shooting lower. And the same with focussing. That's been working for me. 995 of the time I don't have to do anything other than point the lens and push the button.

My gx9 settings for sunny days: manual, ISO 200, SS 1000, F5. Do everything to save highlights.

At around 9:20 you say you are constantly adjusting the exposure compensation. How do you determine the value of compensation for a particular shot? You say you could be lowering the exposure by three stops or more. How do you quickly determine these values?

When shooting into the sun, with your Fujifilm camera, do you find a +2/3 is required, or do you go +1 ? The dreaded blown highlights, or completely blow - out is what concerns me. I have been using 1/3 to 2/3 on my MFT . Your Xtrans sensor will give you pretty good dynamic range and decent ISO performance. With MFT sensors you have a little less to play with. Canon doesn't seem to have great dynamic range, but then again, the metering is very good, and gets it right. That and color -- the Canon glory. For the street, I am liking MFT camera, and think the Fujifilm would make a great camera as well, should I ever jump systems. I hear good things about the Ricoh GR IIIx. At times I need my viewfinder though. Thanks for your videos -- Loren

I just find your channel...new sub....

Hi Brian interesting video thanks. I usually shoot my XT4 in manual, but I thought I try this, however having set auto ISO as described, I’ve noticed the ss drops to slower than 1/200 (i.e. 1/8, 1/4 etc). I thought the slowest shutter speed would be 1/200? Any idea what I have done wrong please. Thanks

Put the compensation dial on C and use the front dial wheel and it gives you 5 steps either way instead of 3.

As I understand things as youve pointed out that there is no right or wrong way as photography is subjective. Personally I prefer shooting full manual and raw. Interesting video though.

Full manual has its place, but it's not in street photography. Some will say why not just Full auto then seen as it's doing everything for you with the settings you/we use, well no it's actually doing what we want it to do as a custom auto where Full auto doesn't know what aperture or shutter we want

Next video… How to setup your auto focus when filming yourself for a youtube channel. I am feeling a bit dizzy after watching this 😅 Less shallow depth of field - better autofocus system - manual focus - …

Hi im 64 years young, and new to this thing, going to start street photography in London. My camera is a Lumix TZ200, I can only afford photoshop elements, would this be any good to edit my photos. Cheers would love your feedback.

The problem with Fuji and zone focusing, is that you are not able to lock the distance in M focus mode. Especially with lenses like the 18mm f/2, that are so sloppy and hysterical when touching the focus ring. So you have to check the distance all the time. You set it to 2 meters, and 30 seconds later it is 5 meters, without even touching the camera... I still don't understand why they don't make a firmware upgrade, so you can lock/unlock the focus ring with a Fn button.

Hi Brian. There is less of a compromise when using a monochrome sensor. And manual focus can be huge asset when combined with a long depth of field. I suppose they are many ways to approach this. Or for any genre of photography. Alex Webb used a full frame camera. With mostly a 35mm lens. And film. Supposedly not as automated as the faux automated film camera like Xpro 3. Creative exposures aren’t just subservient to compensation exposures or aperture. You need total control including shutter speeds. Your talk seems to indicate most people who see this should follow a cookie cutter approach. Spot metering or highlight weighted metering might be better than multi metering. Alex Webb possibly had to think using a manual leica compared to you not thinking when using the Fujifilm. Maybe that’s the difference.

My camera I can't set the shutter speed. How do I do? I have canon 77d

As you said, you are in Lisboa , I would like to have the opportunity take some fotos with you. I live nearby and i'm passionate about photografy since my 8 years old

If your shooting at Aperture Priority...Why set the shutter speed in the ISO menu...doesn't the camera set the speed in auto? Please explain!

Hi Brian, what exposure metering mode do you set your camera on?

So, is the shutter speed dial set to A? Thanks Caula

Interesting settings... but what about the most non professional cameras out there that don't have minimum shutter speed setting on auto ISO? That's a rare (or non existent) feature for cameras under 1000$, my Sony a6000 doesn't have it, nor any of my older Canon EOS Rebel dslrs (actually, only the xxD models have it). The second best option, for me, is Manual with Auto ISO, but again, non of these cameras have a separate EV dial (except Fuji models that costs over 1000$ anyway). Street photography costs money! But after years i found my way around these problems: Manual mode, MF lens, zone focus and setting ISO a little bit higher than needed for flexibility with my shutter speed.

“Modern AF is pretty incredible” … As the camera shooting this fairly static video is distractingly hunting for focus. Lol. Nonetheless, tons of great counsel here!

Having high FPS makes me tempted to shoot a burst of shots, but I feel that I would be doing the genre a disservice, and cheating myself by not honing my skills of anticipating and capturing the decisive moment, so one click it is.

where are you?

Nice video, but you need to sort out the focusing on your camera