Thank you for the video, it was a life saver. I bought a Mercdes-Benz replacement plug at Advance out for $5 that was 14x 1.5 x 30mm long. Worked like a charm.
I had the same issue with my used BMW that I just purchased. Did a lot of research. I did a time sert. It worked perfectly! A bit costly but a permanent solution!
Thanks for the advice. I bought a 14m x 1.5 at my local Ace Hardware . I cut it about .5” longer than the stock bolt and filed it and installed it in my 08’ Civic . It worked . With a new crush washer it tightened up very snug . Thanks for the video . I’m 46 and I have changed the oil in every vehicle I’ve owned since I was a teenager . My dad instilled in me do my own maintenance and I’d appreciate the fact I know it’s done correctly . BYW. I am a 2 yr Amsoil customer for the 4 vehicles in my family . Great products . Thanks again !
A quick oil change place stripped the threads on my 2006 Honda Pilot V6. I found a great tip that says to use the longer drain plug designed for the 2005 Honda Insight which is about 5 mm longer than original Honda Pilot drain plug and will grab the 4 or 5 deeper threads on the pan that the original drain plug does not reach. The Honda part # for the longer drain plug is 90013-PHM-000 - I bought one from the Honda dealer for about $6 and had the dealer install it when they did my oil change. It worked great. The dealer matched the quick oil change's price of $22.95 so I am will have them change the oil from now on.
Great video. It happened in my 2008 Civic and I was in a panic mode. Went to youtube and I saw this video. I was about to order online the M14x1.5x50mm bolt. For some reason I decided to try my luck at the dealer. I asked the guy if they have a longer drain bolt for any Honda vehicle that is M14x1.5. To my luck the guy gave me double the length of my old one and he said that is for 2014 Civic. Problem solved Easy fixed. I wish Fumoto has a longer thread bolt.
This happened to me too while doing a routine oil change. I order the longer bolt, but I also order the Heli-coil repair just in case. Hope it all works out. Great informative video
The exact same thing happened to me on my Tohatsu outboard. Solved it with the longer bolt but like you said not easy to find. Went all over town here in Stockholm Sweden before I found a specialised bolt and screw shop that had one.
5 лет назад
told my mechanic about options of longer bolt to catch deeper threads, retap helicoil, or oversized bolt...he went with a spark plug! hahaha
Anthony Sean Dinh so how does that work? Does the longer thread actually work from the spark plug without you having to tap the pan? And did he cut a piece off the spark plug? Or just screw it in a leave it?
@@F0BBYLEE yes, I believe its the longer threads unless he got a slightly oversized one that fit more tightly, but he did not retap it. it just screwed right in without cutting anything off.
You should torque the oil drain bolt to factory torque specs and not a little more, like you said you've been doing. You have an aluminum oil pan and are installing a steel bolt into it. What do you think is going to give first, the steel or the aluminum. That's why it is so important to keep the torque at the proper vehicle specs for the oil drain plug. Never overtighten these to stop oil drips. Keep the torque to factory specs and use a better gasket if necessary.
I have a fumoto quick-valve so no stripped bolts for me!!!!! plus never have to touch the oil and drains pretty fast. I will using one of these solution on my sister's car though this weekend.The Eco-Plug has been ordered!!!!!
Washer on the drain plug is to be replaced every time drain plug is removed. Washer on your plug has obviously not been replaced in a long time. The washer is aluminum and designed to crush slightly when plug is torqued. When washer is reused it takes slightly more torque on plug to seal each time this is done. Most common cause of threads coming out of pan is not replacing washer, over torquing drain plug and then incorrect drain plug. 31 years Honda dealer experience.
I have managed to get silicon based high temp washer which is soft and thick , you don't need to tighten with wrench just twist will hold nut on position.
Paul Adam's, I have a 1991 Ford F150, and I had a very similar problem, however, it was one of the pan bolts that are "flanged", and a sleeve of threads came off and I've been fighting the transmission pan 4 times now, leaking in the same spot but now it has gotten to where it leaks around the entire parameter. Per your advice, eventhough, they are flanged (looks like a top hat) should I still place a thin copper washer or maybe another bolt but a tad longer? I have now found a new pan that's not $350.00, auto part stores will say the pan that actually fits does not fit, as to why, I don't know, however, I'd still like to know the answer to the question that I asked please. P.S. Aren't we actually installing bolts I to the transmission and not necessarily into the pan itself?
Looks like what came out on your bolt was from a previous inadequate repair. Looks like a helicoil. You can always add metal back in and repair it if you weld, but that's advanced stuff. There's always a way to do it tho :) Nice vid, thanks for sharing!
@@bundysgarage yeah I guess that aluminium is pretty soft, and must have just stuck to the threads. That's one downside when working with threads made out of it. Got lucky with mine and was able to clean up the threads on the bolt and put on a thicker oring to seal it. So far so good!!
I just bought a 2016 Chevy Trax and took it to the dealer for an oil change and a good "going over". They found that someone had used a helicoil, which perhaps one of the springs broke off when they took it out. They said maybe they could use an oversized plug, or I would have to pay for a new oil pan. The parts house brought over a longer bolt, but it looked thinner than the normal one. The service department said they couldn't use it. Can we use an oversized plug after a helicoil?
You could also go to Pick and Pull. I tore up a little plastic PCV hose forked rubber thing on my Explorer when I was removing the intake. Ford wanted something like 100 bucks for it. I found one at Pick and Pull for 5 bucks.
I have put copper anti seize compound on my oil drain plug and I've never had one strip threads out of the oil pan. If it strips get a rubber oil drain plug. It expands as it tightens and does not leak. Bought one at the NAPA auto parts store for about $9.
Thx for the tip on the rubber oil drain plug. I used one years ago for a rusted out freeze plug on a 350 GM engine and it’s still holding on strong. It’s gotta be 13 years plus. The drain plug did not strip out cause it was stuck. It stripped out because the washer collapsed too much and was pulling too hard on the threads.
i was just wondering if you could, and if its not too much trouble, it sure would be nice if you would record yourself picking up a bolt and setting it down a few dozen more times.
The smaller diameter opening will not prevent it from draining completely. It won't flow out quite as quickly but the same gravity will make the oil drain out to the same level.
The Eco thingy seem like it's aimed at DIYers. Take one of those to a Walmart/Jiffy lube, they are not even going to look at the pin, just straight on the bolt with an impact gun and rip it out, followed by some head scratching.
As for the Eco Plug, that is all very nice if the threads are clean and dry and that is fine if the oil pan is off the vehicle. I would not use that method is the pan is installed with oil in the threads using epoxy. And if you are going to remove the pan, you might as well use a Time-Sert or weld the stripped hole and re-thread it.
I do my own changes but for one time let the local repair shop change it along with some other reason for taking it in. I dont over torque anything for fear of pulling threads, but the next time I changed myself I found the plug really odd/hard to remove and the pulled threads came out with the plug that the shop last handled. When confronted with the coil of pulled threads they just started an estimate fot replacing the pan. They will NOT admit to over torquing the plug.
276K views . . This must be a common problem. I have a 08 Accord 4cyl with this issue. We used Teflon tape as a temporary solution, what's the longest the boat needs to be if we use your first method
I went. To a mechanic for oil Change 2days ago. When he changed he told me my oil pan stripped out and need to fix it. So what he said is pay $478 to fix it. Today I have seen alot oil leaked. I don't know what to do now.Demn!
Right now my pan bolt (2004 pilot) is over-tightened and rounded, and it is pretty much a guarantee that it will strip out the pan threads when I extract it, but the bolt is not leaking at all. I think in my case a better option would be to leave the bolt in, get a mityvac, and pump out the old oil through the dipstick tube. It I extract it, I'll have a thread repair to deal with, but right now I can still prevent that.
I will try the drain plug 652166. $5 at autozone. Longer bolt with new washer. Longer bolt always works. The same solution worked on a small smart car.
I would think the best way is to drill out all the boogered metal, tap new threads same pitch, larger diameter, and replace the bolt with a new one. It'll take 20min tops
Agreed, the background music is very, very nice. I didn't notice it until halfway through the video, but that's kinda a good thing. With just talking, it's easy to skip ahead to a later point; but with the music going on, it like... prevented me from doing that. I'm not sure how, but it did.
I just did an eco plug on my pan. I truly do not think the magnet will fall out check out my video on that. I agree with you on not being able to remove all the oil due to the tapered plug. I don't think helical is the answer either, its a coil and not one solid inset item. I also agree with you on rethreading the hole for a larger bolt or for a rethread insert. If you want to know what/how I did it, look at my video.
If you need a quick hack until you find a replacement bolt, chewed buble gum over the thread of the bolt and screwed in will work or a few washers to get you to some good threads on the bolt.
@@bundysgarage My dad said he did it once when his oil pan bolt was stripped out and he was leaking oil pretty bad, he said that worked to get him home but he had it fixed that next day.
My friend The best PRODUCT for this is an Ecoplug i have been buying and using them for years the eliminate oil pan replacement and make it safe and clean to change the oil. ITS THE BEST!
+Jim Lane really no BS? I thought someone from Ecoplug would of reached out to me about this. I would try it and review it for them. How do you know the magnetic won't fall out?
I have been using the Ecoplug products on my vehicles for years I had a Dealership install one for me on my Lexus saved me a ton of money ever since i have purchased several no problems or leaks I love this plug
I have been purchasing and installing these Ecoplugs I just cant say enough about the product and the people behind it these guys spent years and hundreds of thousands of dollars to develop this plug I found this product through one of the largest automotive distributors to the oil change industry called Service Champ.This product is truly amazing it eliminates all the BS on damaged or undamaged steel or aluminum pan threads. In the past I installed heli-coils oversized I drilled tapped you name it NEVER AGAIN!In addition to my customers cars I have Ecoplugs on all my vehicles.Reach out to these guys at Ecoplug I bet they would be interested in talking with you about their product.
I just put an ecoplug into my Prelude. It comes with a rubber cover to put over the plug and the magnetic part. The magnetic part is also pretty strong, so I wouldn't think it would come out without some effort.
HELP! I recently bought a 2012 DR650SE, after i changing the oil i noticed the aluminum sump drain plug hole was crosstreaded. Any recommendations on what to do next?
First off, did you buy the car new and are you the only one that has done oil changes on it? Or did some previous owner or shop strip it and insert a Helicoil into the oil pan because that is what it looks like when you are stretching the coiled threads.
only time it strips is when it cross thread going in and it got forced on too tight. The oil filter goes on snug not tight or you have to rip it off. its easy job, it is harder to screw it up.
No that’s 100% not true. I have always done my own oil changes for over 25 years and have never cross threaded a oil drain plug. So even if your careful on an aluminum oil pan they can still strip the threads out.
Get yourself a small Torque Wrench for those large hands and it might not happen again., and yes I hold two trade degrees and have never stripped one out.
Can you use a coarser thread pitch using an oversized plug? The original thread pitch on my oil pan is M12-1.5. The only thing I can find at any parts store is M12-1.75. Would this work? I need the car back in a hurry.
Yeah you could try it. You would ruin all chances of finding a longer bolt to work but at the next oil change I would go with an eco plug if you don’t want to change out your oil pan
You do get special inserts, a threaded steel sleeve that expands into the oversized hole. You drill and tap an oversized hole, screw in the insert, then use a tool to expand the the insert so it locks to the aluminium thread. Surprised his search didn't find that solution.
Find a mechanic that can re-tap it for a reasonable price. It will be as good as new. Unless you already have a suitable tap kit of course. Matco lol? No....Lisle 58850 Oil Pan Plug Rethread Kit $100 -ish.
Is that the one that self threads and you can open the valve like a air regulator(sort of) and you dont have to remove a plug? I've seen them just wasn't sure of how reliable they are. Any feed back would be great!!
My Harley street 750 .I can't tight to much and bring it to Harley dealers ship to repair. But they say I gonna pay 3k because they say I put glue to prevent the leak..can you give a idea..thanks
If you have done everything "right", you'll never have a problem. 50+ years later in cars and motorcycles that I have owned for 16+ years from new, never an issue. Of course I never take my car to a shop. I read about this on forums. These DIYers should take up another hobby, maybe basket weaving, golf.
Next time when putting the oil drain plug in, use some Teflon plumbers tape over the threads. It will ensure a no-drip seal and prevent Galvanic corrosion (aka bimetallic corrosion) an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes when in contact with a dissimilar metal.
I have been installing Ecoplugs for years in my Quick lube ,Ecoplug is a savior we buy them through National distributors that sell to Quick lubes and dealerships years ago I was buying them on Walmart.com and Amazon where it has a 4.9 star rating I recently spoke to Jason Williamsen a customer service rep at Ecoplug and he informed me that in Februqary 2019 WALMART will be selling Ecoplugs Nationally in their retail stores. In my opinion when a product lands on the most valuable retail space in the world the WALMART SHELF that product is immediately validated I can tell you this vehicles should be manufactured with an Ecoplug changing oil with the high powered magnet is so efficient and clean and you never have to deal with the NIGHTMARE thrreads again.Technology is a wonderful thing NO MORE THREADS FOR ME!
Steel into aluminum is set to fail begin with. Steel will pull threads each time you remove the bolt. the best thing to do would be to put a pipe nipple in the pan and cap out off with a pipe cap. Not too hard to do.
That's why I prefer to put studs in aluminum rather that bolts when I can. Good example, thermostat housings on the V6 Dakota's. They are fastened with bolts and I've have too many strip out or even break off on me. I was lucky to either get it drilled out or drilled and tapped to the next size up or to an SAE equivalent. Went to Rural King or Tractor Supply and modified with studs and nuts.
My first question is who was doing the oil changes on the car with the stripped drain bolt? The stripping was caused by somebody overtightening the drain bolt, be that you or some gorilla working at the Jiffy Lube. So, now it's done and must be fixed but learn a lesson not to over torque this bolt, again.l The next question is do you want it repaired permanently or temporarily? A temporary fix would be what you were already considering. Drill out the drain bolt hole for the next slightly larger tap size and get a bolt, the same length as the original but one size up in diameter. Try fastenal to find the bolt that you will need. Then tap the hole, after drilling the correct size hole for the tap size and install your new upsized bolt with a new gasket and you should be good for awhile. You'll still have to be very careful when you drain your oil and be certain not to overtighten the drain bolt again. The only permanent fix, that I know of, is to replace the oil pan ( a very costly repair), or option 2. Option 2 is to drill out the drain hole for a Helicoil tap (usually used for spark plugs when they get stripped. They come in a kit called sav-a thread.) The helicoil is made of steel and it stays in the drain hole, permanently. Since the helicoil is steel and the drain bolt is steel, the threads should last a long time but can always be stripped if way too much force is used to tighten the drain bolt. See the attached video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AnP1HQkq70s.html
If you are referring to the Drain Plug Bolt in the clear plastic package with the green printed insert, the video at 4:04 shows a Needa brand part # of 652156 which has a shank length (under head) of 22 mm vs. 14 mm for original plug. But, the Needa plug has an unthreaded "pilot" at the tip of the bolt such that threaded portion of the plug appears to be the same length as the standard plug so I don't see an advantage to using that one since the amount of thread engagement would be the same. For what it is worth, it is available at Autozone for $4.99 www.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-drain-plug/needa-parts-oil-drain-plug/257118_961530_5225
A quick oil change place stripped the threads on my 2006 Honda Pilot V6. I found a great tip that says to use the longer drain plug designed for the 2005 Honda Insight which is about 5 mm longer than original Honda Pilot drain plug and will grab the 4 or 5 deeper threads on the pan that the original drain plug does not reach. The Honda part # for the longer drain plug is 90013-PHM-000 - I bought one from the Honda dealer for about $6 and had the dealer install it when they did my oil change. It worked great. The dealer matched the quick oil change's price of $22.95 so I am will have them change the oil from now on.
