Alan - Wow, thanks for a great introduction for a product I was not familiar with! I can see that this is a big step up from the Heli-Coils I have used for years!
Cool little tool. Im my last video (22R-E part 2) I 3d printed a drill guide for a Helicoil repair on the block so that I could fix a stripped head bolt hole. I am pleased to say that my Helicoil held the head bolt just fine, but I would definitely have used these instead had I known more about them. (BTW, the 22R-E video is worth a watch if you have a few minutes.)
That is the way to go. I think you can grind them down if they are too long. There are some other versions that have stakes to keep them from spinning.
I'd bet that insert eventually pulls out.. If 8x1.25 was the original size but it was tapped to 3/8-16 the hole is already too big.. You'll need a fat timsert or keensert.
Another great video! 30 years ago I worked for a racing team that cnc machined various engine components out of magnesium and other exotic materials. Rather than tap holes directly into the magnesium we installed Time-serts to prevent later issues with gauling or thread damage.
Additional tip, instead of marker use masking tape or painters tape would be more visible for you while drilling. Our product does the same, well not the same issue that you have lol!
HFT sells a couple of sets of brushes, nylon and metal, the are perfect for clearing out drilled holes. Especially through holes. You probably already have something similar. Thought I'd mention it for those who don't know. BTW, I dig the bike.
I was first thinking.. bah.. it's another type of Heli-Coil. Wow. They certainly are not that. Very neat how the bolt expands the Time-Sert into the threaded hole to set it. Pricey to start, for sure. But go buy a quality tap and counter-sink bit and the initial cost isn't as painful. Thanks, Alan. BTW.. Nice bike.
Thanks Joe. It is really something you have to get all the info on to see the value. Which is why I wanted to make this video. Once I really learned of them and experienced them I haven't looked back.
Now I'm not going to say I won't 100% do this for a head bolt that pulled out 😅 but I will also be doing it with a power drill. I know there were machinists shuddering at the idea of that 😅
You are correct. They seem to have been used by a few manufacturers for certified repair jobs. I know while researching for this I saw their website call out Cadillac for certain.
Strength testing video on YT which shows helicoil outperform time-sert. Check it out to see if test was fair. Maybe if your time-sert is longer than your helicoil it might perform better.... But if they're the same length, not so sure.
I've said multiple times that the next CB I build, I"m stripping the engine and redoing every important thread with these things. Those bikes are great but the engine aluminum is sooooo soft.
Good explained, i did insert on caliper hole on hub of my ford steel rust free m9 1.25, would not trust helicoil on my breaks. Solid. Solution saves changing the whole hub leg of my car
Any help please, my ram 1500 looks like someone drill deep into one of the engine block holes and it leaking antifreeze slightly, how do I fix this problem?
Hi friend, can you explain me that my Alto car exhaust manifold's gasket leaking oil after repair change new gasket,what is the reason is that please do inform, thank you
Funny enough I follow you on tiktok but havnt not found you on here, i was researching this for my gen service class (Auto Tech) and you popped up lol Great video
Would i be able to do this repair and be able to torque to spec or im better of dropping a few points of from its recommend Nm torque for example if torque spec is 10Nm i should torque the repaired thread to 8Nm
On Mercedes M117 engines, stripped head bolts are repaired with TimeSerts, which is where I learned about them. Personally, I used them to fix engine mounts on my VW Jetta TDI with the ALH engine suspended off of a pair of aluminum mounts. The engine side of the mount is is threaded directly into an aluminum casting, and likes to strip after a few timing belt replacements, due to the torque spec of the bolt putting huge loads on the aluminum threads.
Yeah I work on German cars myself. Use them all the time on M6 and M7 hardware you find on a plethora of German products. Most recently, I did some on a CAEB 2.0 TSI. The vacuum pump mounting bolts. Someone hulked them on and stripped the crap out of one. Developed a leak from the mounting gasket.
I have a aluminum 6.0 LS engine and one of the holes in the block where the head bolt screws in yhe block is stripped out, will the Time Sert work for me?Thanks
Yep. I don’t know the thread size of that off hand but Time-Serts have been used as official GM repair kits for Head Bolts (I believe mostly on cadillacs). Just have to find the right size for your need. I’d imagine if you contact the company they may be able to help you figure it out.
These inserts are not any stronger than helicoils from the data i have seen. As an Engineer it makes a little sense as the softer material used in these inserts needed to swage the insert into place is its weak point. Helicoils are a harder material. Just my perspective, but enjoyed the video all the same.
Why switch? I like the look of bolts better. Studs can break off same as bolts. Studs can arguably be stronger but it’s a header, strength isn’t really a concern.
No it isn’t. I know the law and have zero relationship with TimeSert. In my experience they are the best thread repair, especially in a situation like this.