Stuck at Home? DIY Bird Feeders, Building a bird feeding station, Squirrel, and Raccoon Proof! 

I'm impressed.... You did a great job on your DIY bird feeder! 👍

Joe, thanks for the video and a great do it yourself project. My family made me one for Mothers Day and I just love it. I have about 13 different feeders on it so far. Pre drilling holes at regular intervals made it so much easier to attach hooks for the feeders!❤

I wish I could relive my life again. I would like to be able to do this and carpentry work. I love looking at you do this. The finished product is so pleasing to look at because everything fits together as it supposed to be. Your work is so well done!

This is exactly what I need, something that is racoon proof. I won't be able to do the fancier wood work but I can handle the posts. Thank you for this

solar post lights would look nice on top of the post.

Your neighbors get to enjoy your handiwork too! Nice!

With the cost of lumber now, a nice pellet gun would look like a thrifty alternative to your wooden support structure! It's very beautiful though, and I understand the pressure exerted by the spouse. I'd probably end up doing your project for the same reason!

I just finished building this off of your directions. I LOVE IT! We used concrete on the posts b/c I live in an area that has a lot more drainage. We also found 5" x 4' ducting that worked great as well. It took us 1 day to set the posts and then 1 full day to do everything else.

I’m not a builder, so won’t be doing this, but appreciate someone showing this. I love feeding the birds and will buy something instead

A few things I learned building this. 1. Make sure when you dig the posts - try hard to dig the same depth. Take your time on that part. Tamp the bottom of the hole FIRST, before planting the Post. Also keep checking the "Line" if the posts in relation to each other. If you plant one an inch forward, the wood will have trouble mating. 2. I found the Duct Work did not fit well for my 4x4 Posts. I used a piece of sheet metal instead. Make sure you have a saw to cut the sheet metal. It was much easier to work with the Sheet metal, and it sits square on the post. 3. The Lookouts and Top Rail notches: The desired outcome is that these boards sit flush. (giving the illusion of being all one piece). Make sure your notches are flush. The first time I mated them, the notches were not deep enough. I think finding the middle of the 5 + 1/4 Board was the culprit here. 4. You are going to need a step ladder of some kind (Not a roofing ladder). You will be up and down that ladder 100x. (2 Drills - makes it easier too). 5. I also had trouble putting in the spacers, (even though I thought I did well on measurements). Some would not fit in, I had to re-cut quite a few times. (I have no idea why, but its probably my fault) . 6. Pressure treated wood tends to get a real ugly (Greyish-black) in a few years. I selected a stain, something like a "Tan" color. (I would plan to stain it). Lastly - Many thanks to "doityourselfwithJoe" - who posted this video , and gave great instructions anyone could follow, and also did not leave any detail out. Every measurement was in the video.

Nice job Steve, add a post cap to top of 4x4 would look good but you probably have. Sure wife is very happy with what you have done.

This is just so well done! Thanks for sharing your design and step by step. I hope to use your video to build this myself.

NICE! i did something similar in my yard and added a bird house to the top of the post. Have a family living there already.

PVC pipe also works well

Absolutely love It!! Great Job!!❤

Awesome work!! Great video!

I love it ❤. Thank you! Absolutely beautiful 😁

Love. Now can ya come to Texas and build me one 😂.

Great job!! I love it!

Awesome job! I love this!

This is the best setup thank you

Nice carpenter style thinking. Like listening to me! I was skipping the details, but did you mention to crown the beams? Ya don't want a mules back! Usually treated has an extra 1/8" in width, so spacers at the 3-1/2" should have been kinda loose?

Amazing work

Awesome! Thank you!

I made one of these today and im super happy with the result. 1 thing, no idea how people get square and plumb cuts with jig saws. I ended up just using a hand saw to cut the notches after the first couple came out squirrely

Thanks!

Do you have any dimensional plans for this? Thanks

Hey Nice Video man, I am going to try it this weekend. One Question about the spacers - I noticed you oriented them Horizontal with the ground. I am thinking a vertical orientation will trap less rain on the top of the spacers. + Did you wind up staining your boards?

Awesome feeding station! I’m battling the raccoons at night. Does the 8” duct work truly help with raccoons? My husband went with 6” and it’s not working….just want to make sure the 8” does before we swap it out. Thanks!

Any chance you could post the wood requirements to this video?

Very profesional Work on carpentry but here where I live squirrels jump up to 8 to 10 feet so that high I need at least 12 foot poles

BIRD FEEDER STATION DESIGN 09/28/2020 Follow the video Materials: $$ (~ 160.00) ----------------------------------------- WOOD - Pressure Treated: (2) 10' x 4" Posts $50.00 (24.98) (2) 12' 5 1/4" x 6" Decking Boards $45.00 (21.32 ea) (4) 8' 5 1/4" x 6" Decking Boards $52.00 (14.12 ea) (2) 4" x 36" 4-in x 60-in Galvanized Steel Round Duct Pipe ($10.00) -Hanging Hooks ($1.00 each) -Wood Screws 2.5" ----------------------------------------- Tools: ----------------------------------------- *-Post Level Hammer Speed Square Jig Saw Sander *Paint? Sawhorses Saw Table ----------------------------------------- 1. Scalloped ends: "TOP RAILS" (Long Boards) ----------------------------------------- With a piece of scrap wood, make a template for scallop. Measure one inch in from the end of the board. Use a 5gallon bucket to template the circle. Measure up from the sideboard, 1" Trace the circle with the bucket. Cut the circle out. ----------------------------------------- 2. "LOOKOUTS": Shorter Boards, + Scalloped ends: ----------------------------------------- *DO NOT CUT BOTH SIDES OF THE LOOKOUTS -YET Use the template to trace the same design on the ends. ----------------------------------------- 3. Sand or Route the boards . ----------------------------------------- to create rolled edges ----------------------------------------- 4. Set the Posts ----------------------------------------- Measure away from fence to mark the site line. (Line up the posts are properly). DIG Post holes: 2': Keep Leveling the posts, vertically Set posts 8' on center * Ensure the posts are parallel (Facing) in the hole, to avoid twisting wood. Fill in the holes, be careful about centering. (Tamp down - with 2x4 around the post) ----------------------------------------- 5. TOP RAILS Assembly ----------------------------------------- The Top Rails, sit flush with the post heads, and are screwed into the posts, on either side. Measure up 7' on the 2 posts - use scrap wood for a support for top work (this will be removed later) LEVEL. REST The first Top Rail on the 7' scrap wood. LEVEL Measure both sides to ensure the same amount of Over Hang MARK The lines where the top board sits, to make cut outs *do this for both posts Take the top board to: @ the Saw horse Use scrap wood from 5 1/4 decking, to draw width lines outside of the marks made when the top board was resting in position. MARK an X inside your resting post marks, so you don’t cut into it. MEASURE/MARK the CENTER of the Board: MARK another X - which will identify the top piece (no cut) *The notches should be faced up, in relation to the round edges. Use the first (completed) Top board - to template the 2nd one. SET ATTACH - BOTH TOP RAILS ON THE POSTS. ------------------------------------------------ Flush, Level, Evaluate, PRE-DRILL. ----------------------------------------- 6. LOOKOUTS (4) (Perpendicular boards)/shorter ----------------------------------------- {Dimensions should be 51 = 1/2"} You will need 4 of these boards, cut to {51 1/2"} REUSE the TEMPLATE for the round cut outs. REMOVE the Temporary brace boards on the TOP RAILS. Mark LOOKOUTS for mating to the TOP RAILS. (Use a 5 1/4" Scrap) NOTE: ***Instead of notching the tops, the LOOKOUTS are notched on the bottom. TEST First Lookout FITS @ The Bird Stand 7. SPACER BLOCKS ----------------------------------------- SPACER blocks prevent warping, and provide more feed mounts 3.5" Wide: Total of at least : 7 SPACERS INSTALL the SPACERS, about an inch up from the bottom TOP RAIL. and LOOKOUTS. 1 spacer on the top rail (Overhang end) - oriented on the bottom scallop. 2 spacer on the top rail (Overhang end) 3 spacer on lookouts on center line, 4 spacer on lookouts on center line, 5 spacer on lookouts on center line, 6 spacer on lookouts on center line, 7 Last Spacer was placed inside the TOP RAILS, on center line. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- (You can add more spacers, for more bird feeders). Install Duct work - About 2 Feet from top. (Install with screws) Install Hooks for Feeders Stain.?

What's the metal called which goes around the post? Thanks.

did your neighbor build a new deck? it looks old in one part of the video and then new at the end.

When you added the 8" duct how did you attach it to the post? Did you make wood spacers to go between the duct and post and then screwed it in?

Squirrels etc are awesome! Be kind to all wildlife!

I don't have the tools or skill to build this.. I wish somebody could build this for me

Sure is nice when you don't have rocks in the soil.

With prices of lumber today, you're looking at about 600.00! 😜

I doubt this stopped squirrels. They can reach the feeders by just jumping from the ground. They need to be higher. Believe me, I know from experience…

Is it really though? Serious question

why does it keep moving ?????? is it solid?????

There are projects on how to do this on the Stodoys website.

Why so complicated and over-engineered? It looks like two people died and the bird feeders were after thought.

This video was way longer than it needed to be.