You should do one where somebody makes the adjustments without telling you what setup they chose, then you have to guess which setup they did based on the feel of the bike.
I have a stumpjumper evo, and I can definitely say, my favorite setup has been the slack headtube and the high bb. Where I ride, the trails are steep and rocky, and the confidence with the slackness plus the flickablility is a game changer. I'm running a very similar setup to you, a 170 rockshox paired to a cascade, and with a token in the front, and 2-3 in the rear, I haven't had any issues with bottoming out. It's one hell of a bike.
Probably the middle head tube and the long chain stay. A little more stability and not quite as unruly in the tight stuff. You lose a little bit of plow power but it still eats chunk just fine.
I’m running mine in the stock head cup - 64.5, high CS setting but with the Cascade Link and also a Williams Racing yoke. In a mullet set up. The yoke allowed me to keep the extra travel and progression the Cascade link gave me. And geo stayed the same as well. It is so much fun now. 👌🏼
Jeff is my spirit animal, not many people align with my style of riding, but holy moly I love how you ride Jeff! Super fun to watch and it inspires my deep desire to get out and have fun on the trail! Great video, awesome bike an love to hear about your input on bike tech. Super informative.
Totally agree with your summary. I run mine low and slack for bike parks, high and steep for gentler/XC orientated riding, and high and slack for steep alpine type riding, although I am going to try high and neutral for the tighter natural alpine enduro trails.
Just picked up a stumpy evo and ran it steep and high on my first ride. Sedona is my winter spot, so lots of tech pedaling, and no long bomber downhills. The geo felt really good for this terrain. I've been on a Ripley the past year so I'm used to, and happy with, a steeper HTA there. I love that I'll be able to slacken it out as needed when summer comes and I get to ride my local mountains and take trips to CO/UT for backcountry stuff/bike park. I sure hope more bikes/brands start to offer this level of adjustability in the future
I am considering this bike, but I would hate it if it lost traction or suffered from pedal strikes on the techy climbs. I would probably just always run it in the highest setting for the terrain where I live. Did you have those issues with this bike? My other option is a Pivot Trail 429, but this bike will save me $1100.
Favorite setting for my SJEvo is -1 headset with a Hi bb in a mullet configuration using the specialized mullet link. I really think you'll like the mullet configuration on this bike!!
How tall are you? I’ve been thinking of running mullet for my evo however the only benefit I see is the clearance from the seat. I’m 5’11” so I don’t really need that. If it had a shorter chain stay it would be better. Kind of like the status 160 where it’s more of a dedicated mullet.
@@roybarrientos4696 I’m 5’8 on a medium. For me the primary benefit is no butt buzz on steep and technical trails. The second benefit is how the bike corners and transitions from one turn to the next…it’s really neat. I guess the third benefit would be how the bike accelerates and feels…a little lighter outback and a little stouter with a stronger wheel due to its smaller size. It’s a bit of an investment but I think you’ll like it!
@@romand123 nice thanks for your insights! Yeah I don’t need butt clearance but what you mentioned about the cornering seems like something I would be after. Thanks again, I appreciate the reply 👍🤙
Great video!!! I have a 21 EVO setup mullet and run a 2023 170mm Zeb Ultimate and a 2023 super deluxe coil in the rear. High short chain stay and neutral head angle. The bike handles everything very well!
Thank you for doing this. I recently went to -1 high bb. Have been loving it. Running mixed wheel with the Specialized linkage. Game changer for short inseam me.
@@tinshield I’m with you; I run my SJEvo here in MA at most places in steep/high. But the ability to change within 10mins is awesome. And I do change it regularly depending on trails.
@@determinedskeptic I’m in MA too and ride a lot in NH as well. Lots of twisty trails with roots and rocks. On most stuff even the steepest head angle is plenty stable. Climbing position is perfect on techy climbs as well. If I go to a park can easily flip the headset.
Jeff I'm a big fan of your channel but this whole test has a huge asterisk on it given you're running it with a 170mm fork. The 170mm fork almost emulates a halfway between low and high (if run in low) and halfway between neutral and slack (if placed in neutral). Wouldn't have been hard to just use a 160mm fork in this test considering the parts you have in your spares box/those air springs are cheap as via Jenson.
Thanks for taking the time to put this together, it’s a huge help for setting up my bike👍 I’d be super interested in your thoughts on running it mullet.
The point shouldn't be what is the best combination of settings, it's that all the different combinations of settings are all actually noticeably different. This bike in carbon is the shiz! Specialized, love 'em or hate 'em, the Stumpy Evo is legit!
I wonder how much you would like the Spesh Status 160. Super short chain stays with a slack geo. Best part is the frame set is like $1050 at jensens. Yeah, it’s mullet but give that a try and report back. Interested in your thoughts on that.
I felt the same. For rooty rocky trails the mixed wheel setup felt harsh. But I did like being able to hang off the back more. I've grazed my butt a few times on the 29 rear wheel.
The cascade long travel link on the turbo Levo was definitely 300 whatever’s $ worth of difference. Instead of increasing the air pressure in the shock you can decrease the pressure in your shock(well your new shock because you need a different shock with a longer stroke). So more than 300$ haha. But still this was the bike where the cascade link made a huge difference. I’m running 20% less pressure in the new shock but I’m almost never bottoming out, even on big hucks to flat. Sure I could soften it even more and use those last 2-3mm of travel, but there is no need. Still has more usable travel than stock and has more traction. The running longer travel but keeping the bikes mid travel support which was where I was a little worried before the install. Not every cascade link offers a drastic difference in ride quality or traction but this long travel link was actually pretty amazing.
Thanks,. I have the carbon expert build on that Evo. I settled on slackest head angle and highest chain stay setting. But it's only ridden on at silver mountain. Additionally, I converted to coil springs front and rear. A push ACS 3(160mm) and rockshox rc2t with HBO at 550lbs respectively. I'm 170lbs
I've got the berry colored 2022 SJ Evo Alloy in S4. I'm 160 lbs and 6' tall. No cascade linkage and a .8 spacer in the float x, 160 up front with two spacers(Stock Fox 36). 70 PSI in the front typically and 165-170 in the rear. I changed the stem from 50mm to 40mm and I find myself switching back and forth between the Neutral headset cup and the -1 degree. I was ONLY using the -1 degree but I've found that for my local trails the neutral headset cup is better for pedaling around. I leave the rear in high setting for the bottom bracket height, although now you have me questioning the longer rear end for enduro racing at locations where the terrain isn't as chunky, and is more steep. With cushcore in the rear as well as Hustle Bike Labs magnetic pedals, my bike is nearly 40 lbs with a water bottle. She's a little heavy, but with the geo adjustments it makes pedaling days a lot easier. For my next upgrade I'm debating between the cascade linkage or a different fork, however it sounds like I probably wouldn't see much of a difference in performance with the cascade compared to a different fork like a Lyrik or Zeb with more adjustments. I like the bike park and chunky terrain so the big stanchions look appealing, I just don't want to add more weight. Great video and nice to hear your opinion on all of the different geo settings and cascade linkage! Much appreciated!
Yeah would REALLY love to see a video next reviewing the WRP Mullet Yoke with the Cascade link. Just hooked up a cascade link with their north fork calipers on my stumpy evo and really want to try out the WRP yoke once its time to upgrade wheels.
Thank you very much for this video. I have a Specialized Kenevo SL that uses the same geometry adjustment hardware. I haven't experimented with the headset cup adjustment but I have with the rear adjustment. I found that here in Ohio, where the trails can be steep but not too fast, the higher setting out back works better and I have fewer peddle strikes. The middle setting up front seems to work well so I haven't messed with it. After watching your video I think I will stick to the middle setting. Especially since my mechanical skills are lacking and you don't have to align the cup perfectly. The slack position is not needed in Ohio terrain and the steep position didn't afford you great cornering or stability. I'll stick to the middle setting up front and the high setting in the rear. Now I will go and drink a bottle of LMNT in your honor.
great video!! the only one show casing this bikes capability and actual effect of the geometry adjustments that come with it! would be great if you could go a bit more in-depth on the cascade link, ive been considering one for over a year but i would really apreciate some actual reviews on how it feels with examples and stuff! if you could it would be much apreciated!
Yeah I have it low in the back, steep in the front on a 170. Seems to make sense so it doesn't slack out too much due to the taller fork. As well as increasing reach since I'm sized down a bit. I believe it sits at 64 degrees in this setup.
Love the callout of my local trails Alafia and Santos for geometry references. Low and slack is what I have with my current setup. I do wonder what is the better setup when I'm traveling and I'm happy you did this video which saves me a lot of guess work on my trips where I maybe only have a few days to ride.
I put a Push 11-6 my stumpy evo recently and out of the box it was way too poppy. Not what I expected for a coil shock. So much so I was loosing traction a bit and getting bucked a bit in the chunk. I double checked the spring rate and sag but it was spot on at 30% sag. So I dialed down the LS and HS compression ten clicks and felt way better then what Push had it set up. It now feels more plush, and I’m not getting bucked all why still feeling just as poppy off of side hits as the stock air shock. Can’t wait to put it in long and low slack mode for bike park.
I just built up a Sj evo alloy with a 170 zeb out front and a super deluxe ultimate out back loving it so far been running high and neutral I might give -1 a try since im in Texas. originally I was going to buy a 160 air shaft but I agree the bike feels really good with a 170 I will wait until I see your thoughts on 160 v 170 fork.
The bike is so low, so I think the taller fork (extra travel and Zeb is taller than stock36), is a great option. Like you said, you can run it one setting (headset or chainstay) steeper, and you will have a the same headset angle, but a few mm more ground clearance.
As somebody who has spent time on both, how would you compare & contrast the SJ Evo and Ibis Ripmo V2S? I'm in the market for a new bike, and these 2 are in consideration. (Also used code for LMNT order 😁 )
I tried a few settings and also landed on high bb + neutral head angle. Maybe I'll try high bb + neg 1 deg head angle again for the trails in Santa Cruz.
Actually surprised the Evo is the most popular bike for the Cascade link, I would've thought it was the Ripmo AF as it's very popular on that bike too (and a total game changer on the Ripmo)
So as pleb who is afraid of big climbs and can only dream about being able to lean a bike over in corners someday the steeper angle might actually feel kind of nice. ...Well this is why I bought the Occam really. Going slack and shortening the suspension would probably balance each other out to feel more like the the neutral angle now. No?
I have narrowed my search down to 2 options. This and a Pivot 429 Trail. I can get the Amigo deal on the Pivot since my AL swingarm cracked on my 2014. I can get that bike for $4855- normally a $6100 build. Or I can get this Evo. I don't really ride aggressively enough to justify the Evo, but I can save $1100 and have the option for more aggressive riding down the road. I don't do any jumps. I live in Raleigh NC, but we own property out west, so more gnarly trails are definitely possible in the future. Wondering how well the EVO climbs in the most trail like settings? I HATE losing traction on techy climbs. I ride more for climbs than descents. Does the EVO in the highest setting suffer from pedal strikes? I rented a Stumpy a few years ago and I was flying down a flat trail, put the pedal down and hit a small rock that sent me flying since I was going so fast. I don't ever want that to happen again and I know the Pivot doesn't have that issue.Wondering what ya'll think?
The volume spacers you linked for the Float X say 2018-2021. Looking to support you and buy from Jenson but just want to be sure they will fit in 2022-2023 Float X as well? Thanks
Hey bud. Out of all these bikes you have been trying recently which would you feel is still the most versatile long travel 29er being great on the up as well as super capable on the downs. Still the Ripmo?
Something I've always been curious about...does a longer chainstay setting affect the suspension kinematics? Like surely having a longer lever makes the suspension more supple throughout the stroke (like moving the entire leverage curve left a little). And wouldn't the bike get slightly longer travel as the wheel will have to move through a longer axel path relative to the main pivot? I.e will a longer chainstay setting result in slightly more plush feeling bike?
Hi, I am riding Specialized Stumpjumper Evo with the same Fox Float X shock, however I find it really difficult to find the right pressure. Would you tell me what pressure you have at your weight. I' d apprecciate it.
10mm is roughly 1/2° so you're approaching stock geo as you shorten the fork in the slack head angle. I imagine the designers and engineers grumbled their way through building in gimmicky options. They already know the target setup for the Evo niche. I appreciate experimentation, but design is compromised as features are added. It's annoying to engineer around marketing requirements.
You would assume a big company like Specialized would invested enough money into investigating the best possible linkage stuff. Yet, smaller companies still need to spend time and effort into it to make it the best it can be. As you can tell, after reading about all the hype over Specilized, I bought my first ever S-Works Stumpjumper. Although the bike is very nice, all service and quality related stuff to Specialized wasn't. I highly recommend people to buy any other brand than Specialized. I can accept mistakes, but a build up of duck-ups is too much for me, especially if you believe all the hype around the brand.
I used to own the 2019 version of this bike. Absolutely loved it but it got... Let's say a little too much use and abuse. I now own a mullet Nicolai Saturn 16 and it's the best enduro/trail bike I've owned. Still can't beat a 26er DH rig or a 27.5 hardtail in my opinion though
I've got the kool aid, located in the PNW also. I've got this frame, S5, 80% assembled awaiting a WRP mullet yolk to combine with the Cascade link for the new MX wheels. Will share, not poison 🤙PM if interested @JeffKendallWeed
