Style: Let's Break some Rules! 

“Don’t apologize to Walmart.” Hugo standing up for small business! Love it!

"I trust my eyes". Exactly! strictly following rules is no fun. A mirror, knowledge of the rules that one is breaking, and a sense of adventure is a winning formula.

Style rule for shoes: Maintain your shoes: shape (use shoetrees), finish (keep a soft to high shine on smooth leather shoes), and structural integrity (replace heels, soles, and laces when they need replacing).

I love how happy Sonya looks wearing the clipped braces. It goes to show that the man/woman makes the style and not the other way around. Well done, you all.

As someone who works in the core of London, “no brown in town” is still a thing. It is very rare to see brown shoes with a suit.

90% of wedding pictures that I see on Facebook have the same uniform of mid-blue, too-short jacketed suits, with mid/ light brown shoes. It looks bad, people are just following what they see on social media.

I really love the discussions about sartorial issues between Hugo and lovely lady Sonya. What an elegant and positive couple! Thank you Hugo and Sonya! Bart

'Sartorial salvation' for a non-native English speaker, Hugo makes the catchiest of phrases!

Sadly, dressing well seems to be breaking the rules these days.

Such a lovely couple. Love your channel. I learn so much. Thank you.

Absolutely agreed on the tie length. If you are into vintage ties from the "Golden Age" of menswear, you know they are much shorter than modern ties. Ties from the '30s and '40s are only 44-48 inches!

Oh I won't break my rules. For example, watching Sartorial Talks videos.

Hello Sonya, hello Hugo I'm watching for quite a time and I'm very pleased with all the information You share. Great idea to steer up the rules and dust off a bit the stiffness seen sometimes in fashion. Love your Sartorial Talks 👏👏 Best Regards, Harald

I always get a frisson of anticipation when I see you’ve made a new video.Thank you.

The white socks thing reminded me of an episode from my past. Years ago I directed a production of Peter Pan for a children's theatre. During rehearsals I mentioned to the young male actors that they needed dark socks with their costumes. I then off-handedly mentioned that after the age of 12, in real life, they should never wear white socks outside of athletics. I remember one kid pushed back and asked to see the socks I had on at the time. I raised my pant cuff and showed the charcoal grey socks I had on. Years later, I ran into that same kid, by chance, at a supermarket (he was now grown to his late teens) and he mentioned what I had said about white socks. It had stuck with him. He raised his cuff and had on dark socks. I raised my own cuff and showed navy socks. We laughed and shook hands and parted ways. I was surprised, but appreciative, that that off-handed comment about a minor part of dressing well had stayed with that young man.

The white socks thing is because of the ivy league revival in Japan, England, Korea and France

Rule Nr 1, thumbed up immediately. You've talked about this before. Love wearing mine open and especially when I sit down or walk during the summer. Why be uncomfortable or merely restrict yourself. Good evening to you both, and keep being inspirational!

It is really enjoyable to know how to style oneself, however, as Mrs. Sonya and Mr. Hugo concluded: confort and adaptability with the basis of tradition and good taste.

Excellent video, i watch this channel because of Sonia. I love her style and her way of talking ❤️💕

-The white sock/black shoes contrasting energies create inertia that helps a moonwalk go smoother. Fun episode :)

Totally signing the "never park your horse in front of a coffee shop" statement 😅.

This is probably one of the best videos you have produced. The way you look at each other is admirable. Suggestion for a video: Please talk about scarves, the history of it, patterns, where to wear, what to wear, famous stores, ....

I love watching you two coming from a French perspective and from an American one. Very interesting and so enjoyable. Love those details such as that button for suspender you have upstairs and the length of ties. My late husband was Italian. He'd wear brown shoes with blue trousers for going out to casual dinner but that would only be in Spring or Autumn. No no... no sandals for him too. But Pitti Uomo is so flamboyant which in Milan is not suitable to wear. Hubby wore loafers without socks though but only in late Spring to Summer. No white socks either.

I think I don't agree on the clip-on suspenders, but otherwise the search for a balance between staying relaxed about wearing clothes and having certain standards is making these episodes very nice to watch.

Good evening Sonya, Hugo, Many thanks to both of you. It's a pleasure to listen & watch your videos. Have a nice day

Hugo Jacomet exists! The metaphysics are going deeper. I love it.

As usual, Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. The highlight of my week every time!

I love the dramatic music with your confession! I am from Louisiana and linen with no socks and loafers is what I live in during the summer.

Your channel has really helped me be unique and casual.

Hi Hugo and Sonya, I’m a big fan of your videos and purchased both of your books! It’s such an entertaining and informative channel and I always look forward to new episodes. I love the way you have so much fun with it and your passion and enthusiasm are infectious. You’re both the epitome of elegance, sophistication and style. I have a very different style, but I’ve learned a lot from your show/books and am trying to refine my style by incorporating some of that knowledge. Thank you and keep up the wonderful work!

We are near 100k friends! Chapeau Hugo et Sonya!

Excellent discussion Hugo and Sonja. The two of you have such a refreshing and interesting style which makes for some relaxing evenings when watching your videos. I enjoy learning from each of you. Keep up the great work!...Ed

You guys have charm and charisma in spades. Love being in your presence through video.

Bravo! So happy you can own your arc. You rock them sockless loafers, Hugo!

In Bermuda shorts with suits and long Sox is their national business attire.

I love your talks! Thanks. Also, Hugo that's a great tie.

As far as the suspenders are concerned, in a pinch, I have used small safety pins in the horizontal position as buttons in the trouser waist. I highly recommend if one to do this, that they were to use quality safety pins that don’t bend so easily.

I love your content, thank you for making the sartorial topic became more approachable.

I love your channel! Thank you Hugo and Sonya!

Another wonderful show today! If we agree that style is an important form of self-expression; then to some extent it should accommodate individuality in that expression. Rules should be stretched and pushed just as language needs to be over time. However, one can only go so far in our self-expression or we arrive at Style’s equivalent of last evening’s US Presidential debate.

When it comes to suits, I admit to leaving my jacket completely unbuttoned. The only time I’m buttoned up is when I’m going to be in a meeting with a group of higher ups. Any time else, my jacket is left open. Maybe I’m weird like this but that’s me. But I will admit, I’m one of those people who like the small blade of the tie a bit close to the length of the large blade and tucked in. And since I’m American, I’m guilty in agreeing the short blade being longer is a sin. 🙋🏼‍♂️

Winchester shirts...both contrasting collars and cuffs or just contrasting collars ...yes love wearing them tie-less with good fitting jeans!

I love my imperfectly tied bow ties when I'm with my wife. It distracts her with something to obsess with all night long as she constantly adjusts back and forth for me.

Great show! I love it when someone becomes a game changer and we see new styles emerge.

I didn't know that about the Japanese wearing their ties with a longer narrow blade, but I'm really glad you've made me aware of it. It's lovely that a gentleman (or lady) may choose to wear their ties according to the Japanese style. As an Englishman, I'm rather formal with my ties. The narrow blade is always shorter than the wider blade and it is tucked neatly behind the wider blade. Tie tip is always on my belt buckle or top trouser button. It's fun that there are these ways of communicating one's heritage. With regards to 'no brown in town' my understanding was that this was regarding suit colour, and that a gentleman would wear brown in the weekends and for outdoor pursuits but in a business setting navy shades and dark greys (with steps towards black and blue) would predominate. Brown also is a colour for academia - and as an academic, I'm rather proud of my brown suit.

As usual great video again.. but I think this time with little fun.. like sandals with suit 😊.. I can only say thanks from Saudi Arabia ✋🌹 for the detail you providing..

Hello Sonja and Hugo, It is wonderful to see another great video from you two! I'm in my mid twenties, and have been working on developing my style to something more interesting and, dare I say, sartorial. As such, I've been following your videos for a little over a year now and am tremendously impressed by the knowledge you share as well as humbled by the effortless, unpretentious, and natural feel of your discussions. This video in particular has caught my interest because I think it is important for people in the sartorial community to understand that style, especially a more thoughtful one, does not mean that everything has to be perfect and pressed and altogether stodgily refined. Nay, clothing is meant to be worn and all of the wrinkles and small "imperfections" such as bits of asymmetry, ought to be seen as beautiful when it is pulled off well and without fuss. Perhaps if you were attending a more formal occasion, that is where you take your style to a more polished look, but as a lifestyle - one should be approachable, effortless, and have a style of their own. Thank you and take care,

Love these two!!!

This is an incredible channel. We love you both.

Suit buttons exploding, sartorial hell...😄😄😄😄! Now I can't help but wondering what "sartorial hell" would be like. 😉 (Great video, as usual!)

I enjoyed these moments very much .

I really enjoy your talks and since you asked, I prefer braces to belts. Also, if you're a bit overweight they are so much more comfortable and you never have to worry about your pants sliding down! As for clips vs. buttons, I'm firmly in the buttons camp. I prefer there look over clips and I couldn't care less if whether someone else wears clips or buttons. What I do notice is when someone wears a belt and suspenders.

I know several women who are unbuttoning their sleeves exactly as Sonya does. And I really like that look too. However, for me loafers without socks are still a no-go!!! (Even though, considering it... on some men. And Hugo might be one of them...) !!! Wonderful video as always, dear Sonya and Hugo!

violin at beginning is superb!

I’m 6’3” with a 17.5” neck. Getting the small blade longer is not an option. Even long ties are too short for me to make this happen. Perhaps this style is seen in Japan because it’s primarily based on body proportions .

Very interesting discussion about the tie length, especially the usage of the small blade as a flair piece. As a relatively younger American, I can say that a longer small blade certainly looks faux pas to our eyes and I don't recall ever seeing anyone wearing it off to the side. In the US, the small blade is a necessary evil required to wear a tie, but should be covered at all times. I'll have to play around with this look after hearing this discussion.

Great Video. I’m not sure if someone already responded to this but Albert Thurston makes the full range of Braces/Suspenders. They make ones that use buttons that comes with buttons that you can have your tailor sew into your trousers. They make ones that are clips ,ones that are combos and clip-on buttons.

That was a court trial ,,,with lots of confessions )))))))))), very interesting dears, and i'm glad we wont go to the Sartorial Hell, ))))))))))). Your program is really my Sartorial heaven , Thanks to both of you , Love to you from Cairo.

The reasons why Americans feel that way (or at least me about the ties) is because the back blade typically has the brand price and material tag. Being that in America we have the whole place run by corporations it can prove annoying for the tie to blow and the back is exposed. This my hypothesis I am not saying for everyone, but definitely for me.

Contrasting collar and cuffs no tie, Brilliant! Never thought of it before.

One thing, I truly must commend you both for is the recurring thesis, among your many videos (as I interpret anyhow): that when a person feels good, for how they are dressed, there is in turn an amplification effect. I.e. that when you feel good, you tend to look good; genuinely, and also vice versa. Which, of course, is in contrast with that rather lame, old adage: "You must suffer to be beautiful!" Ideally, style comes from the soul, not pain. And indeed: you can have both comfort and flair. That I think is the lesson of Monsieur Jacomet and Professeure Sonya. (Please pardon misspelling, perhaps. My French needs improvement.) Sincerely, thank you both for doing these talks. They are always equally positive and informative.

I reckon it all comes down to comfort and soothing to your own eyes 😀

I do like the no sock look! Ah, I knew I had seen Hugo with no socks......I thought it was a dream! Cheers!

I think one style rule that can be broken is that tie width should match lapel width. I like to tie my ties the same way that you do (Hugo), and sometimes having a jacket with very large lapels makes it hard to adhere to that rule. So, showing the small blade can add a little width to a not-so-wide tie. Great video!

Thank you Hugo and Sonya, another enjoyable topic of conversation. There is nothing wrong with sticking to the rules, but personally I find it antiseptic and boring. A little bit of sartorial yin and yang makes for a more interesting outfit. I like wearing my ties with the back blade longer than the front like Kaga-san (the Japanese have embraced Neapolitan tailoring and the concept of sprezzatura), pairing a fitted DB blazer with full cut 1940's army chinos, sawtooth denim shirt under a business suit. The only "rule" I don't break is no belt with a waistcoat which is why the trousers of my 3-piece suits are all side tabs. But ultimately, to each his own as there will always be a critic no matter what you wear. Looking forward to your next video. Cheers.

Oh dear, an exciting video!

The use of the word Town ( in no Brown in) refers specfically to London.

No way I could play Chopin without opening the double breasted jacket, haha!

Fantastic show and segment as always I had a good laugh and good lessons to learn, also I am trying to learn French so I can speak to more of my family that lives in France but also so I can have a conversation one day with Mr. Jacomat in French to test my studies😁. My style rule that I like to break is wearing gold and silver together but if I do this then I will make sure that the number of golds and silvers are even, 1 gold 1 silver, 3 golds 3 silvers, other than that I'm a puriest but I love it when I see others even dressing at all as I live in America, just seeing it is amazing but yes sir your non-negotiatables are mine as well (Pardon me for my over use of manners, I'm former military and my mother was very keen on teaching me to be a gentleman VERY early☺) have a great day to the both of you and i look forward to the next video.

In the book 'Style and the Man', Allen Flusser says: a mans suit and or sport jacket should never have shoulder pads unless you're a short man looking for extra height. Or, if you have one drooping or sloping shoulder that you need to correct. However, I feel that it's ok to have padding in the shoulders if that's the more structured look you're going for. Hugo and Sonya, what are your thoughts?

Sonya, In Australia, you won't find anyone wearing white socks with a suit because the men in this country rarely wear suits! Unfortunately, in this country , men go for shorts and t-shirts. The adaptation of classic style in this country is almost non existent. The men seem to think they are too laid back but actually it borders on blatant laziness.

I live in Australia and sometimes you see people wearing white socks (also pink, blood red, cartoon socks) and suits toghther because here people dress extremely casual and do not care to follow ANY kind of style 'rule'. I understand that sometimes is absolutely ok to break rules, but one thing is breaking rules another is not caring about ANY sort of style.

There was an article on street sprezza about the white socks, I think the old style, 1930s 1940s 1950s, drape, preppy, is making a comeback, mainly in japan and korea, but it is not necessarily classic menswear, I do love the bntailor stuff on instagram for this sort of style in suiting

Hi Hugo! Love from India. I have been following your channel for quite a while and I remember you made a video of advice on "first bespoke suit" to be grey or blue. I am a rule breaker! I commissioned my family tailor to make me a full floating canvas 250gm Ecru Hemp double breasted suit(6*1) as my first bespoke garment. I know I might sound daring but I went for that particular fabric for few reasons: 1) My place has a tropical climate with summers as hot as +40Celsius to Winters as cool as 16Celsius only 2) I am 28 and in the dress down world I can carry a casual suit in a bit more formal occasions too 3) CBD has changed my mom's life and cured her from palsy so Hemp fabric has a place in my heart as it's coming from the same plant. 4) Hemp is cheaper than wool and linen too in India as most linen threads are outsourced from Europe here in India. My hemp is locally grown in the Himalayas 5) I have mostly seen my father wearing double breasted instead of single and as I have tried wearing his suits for a trial, yes there is something invisible about a Double breasted suit (but that's just my mind speaking) Hoping to meet my Sartorial Guru someday.. Regards, Siddhant

Another wonderful episode. Merci mon ami :)

Agree with Hugo, sandals are not for me, but fine for others!

You two are the best!

Thank you! very interseting episode.

"Let's see which 'don'ts' you have the right to do!! Yes!! xx Tony p.s sometimes I'll open my DB suit jacket and let it flow!

Great video, the “confessions” were very funny! I would love to see your opinion of formal dress in Bermuda, it breaks practically all the rules. Perhaps tropical style could be another book?

Retailers themselves can choose how they want their Albert Thurston suspenders to be. So some will only have the leather pieces (or cotton, for a more casual look), and I assume one can also choose for only clips. And yes, the clip-on buttons a great middle-ground.

Thank you Hugo and Sonya, just bought some Winchester shirts from J. Press. I wear them with no tie and suit, its too hot in Mexico right now. Cheers.

"I'm seeing people wear white socks in Australia". I think even Australians would say that they might not be the right people to follow for stylish trends :)

As an American I am able to ask this question with authority. Why does our society (American Society) dress like everyone is going to the gym or going to play a basketball game? This is a complete devolve into laziness. In my opinion, of course.

The back tie blade longer, unbuttoned cuffs or shirt collar buttons, one monk strap unbuckled, open double breasted, these are all sprezzatura, which basically means “perfect imperfection.”

Coming from a young man- 9:36 what a smoke-show. Hugo you are a lucky man.

Sartorial Talks... Love these videos.

Another great video. So much good info!

Hello Hugo and Sonya, just love the positivity both of you irradiate, personally I'm not that invested into the sartorial culture but you give me inspiration because you embody the "Power Couple" I dream, an husband and wife share a passion and working together on the same vision... Ps: I'd love to hear your thoughts about the congolese men fashion culture and "les sapeurs" in general. Bonne soirée à vous 😉

Another great discussion. I don't agree with everything you said however, as you stated, that's part of the fun. I think one's personality greatly contributes to which, and how many, rules one is comfortable breaking. Cheers!

Admiring your beautiful presentations and literature You are beyond the expectations .

I think loafers without socks looks great....but! I wear sockettes. They cover the foot but are not visible above the edge of the shoes. Simply to protect the inside leather of the expensive shoes from sweat which can cause the leather to smell and deteriorate prematurely. It is also more comfortable to wear cotton between my skin and the shoe.

Thanks

Thank you both of you for this interesting video... salutations de Abdou de la Norvège.

Clip on suspenders is not appropriate for a white tie ensemble period. Due to the cutaway design the suspenders is in the forefront. It simply makes it look cheap.

When I worked in Italy, the local office gents said that brown shoes were acceptable after 7pm. But not in the office.

What about the black dress shirt? That’s my go to shirt when i go for a monochromatic look with my medium dark gray suit.

Thanks Hugo I now feel more comfortable with my clip braces!

"Waist coat," is used in UK. However "Gilet" is also used but mostly for sleeveless jackets.

Agreed, wearing loafers without socks can be acceptable in very hot weather and informal situations, especially with linen.