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Sub-Frame spring mounts evolved! | Fuso Canter FG 4x4

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EP 79 - Moving further along with the spring mounts - finally! Getting back to the basic construction and welding things together for the rest of the mounts, as well as drilling the center holes for the mid and forward mounts. I’ve also added some side guide plates, and start bolting the rear end mounts to the chassis with some grade 8 hardware.
PLEASE NOTE!! At the time of this video, I have no testing on how well these springs perform. If you are looking to build a similar setup, do so at your own risk! The weight of your finished setup could vary wildly from what I have built. Your requirements AND my results could be quite different! The information provided is purely for explanation of what I have done - and may not be at all suitable for your setup!
Let’s talk springs! The springs used are ISO D Medium duty 1” diameter 5” long springs. The rear most have a spring rate of 162.7 lbs per inch. The mid mounts also use 1 of these springs, in combination with a 5-1/2” “medium heavy duty” (the red spring) with a rate of 137 lbs per inch. The forward most springs are 12” long, with a rate of 40 lbs/inch.
I purchased these springs from Granger Canada - but unfortunately they are showing as no longer available. I’ll leave links here so you can see more info about them - so long as the info isn’t removed. - note, I have no association with Granger, this is just where I bought them.
Rear springs, and mid blue springs:
www.grainger.c...
Mid (red) springs:
www.grainger.c...
Front springs:
www.grainger.c...

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21 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 24

@contributor7219 10 месяцев назад

Given you are spring mounting yours along the entire length, you may need to add shock absorbers between the chassis rails and the box subframe so you don't get unpleasant oscillations on certain road conditions. You'll certainly know if you do need to add them as you'll feel it straight away! It's not something you can necessarily cure with spring tension, so just have a contingency plan for adding them if need be. Our Fuso is a short wheelbase truck so its module is solidly mounted at the very rear of the frame but has 'cushyfloats' centre and front. These allow enough flexibility but damp vibration quite well.

@BruceandKrista 10 месяцев назад

Great info - hopefully the rear spring tension will be enough to prevent sway - but some shocks or dampers at the front would be fairly straightforward to add. 👍

@ExpeditionCamper 10 месяцев назад

Very nice work! I can t hardly wait to start my project.

@BruceandKrista 10 месяцев назад

Thanks! It’s a very long process!

@gator701 10 месяцев назад

thanks Bruce

@BruceandKrista 10 месяцев назад

Thanks for watching!

@gator701 10 месяцев назад

@@BruceandKrista do my spring specs need to be stronger if my habitat is 2000 lbs heavier? And the double spring setup was mounted just in front of the leaf spring brackets on the frame, is that correct?

@BruceandKrista 10 месяцев назад

It’s hard to say - I don’t believe it’s just “weight” related, because the weight isn’t sitting on the springs. The springs are allowing the chassis to twist as the suspension moves (which has no relation to the weight of the box). They are also preventing the box from tipping sideways when the truck is on a side slope - which isn’t really related to weight, but would be related to vertical center of gravity. (More weight up high would require more spring tension on the high side to prevent it from tilting). I think it’s really a game of having a setup that you can tune once everything is built - adjusting pre-tension - and even swapping out springs if needed once you start experimenting. My double spring bracket (technically 4 springs) is the furthest back - it’s the stiffest, so it’s just behind the rear leaf spring hanger. The next one forward will be a single rod (two springs) mounted around the front spring hanger.

@thasebe13 9 месяцев назад

Keep up the good work buddy... Happy building!!!

@BruceandKrista 9 месяцев назад

Thanks man! One day we’ll make it out west!

@backbeatpat 10 месяцев назад

Great work. You're rebounding!

@BruceandKrista 10 месяцев назад

Did you notice some spring in my step? 🤪

@backbeatpat 10 месяцев назад

No, but I thought you were hopping around just fine.@@BruceandKrista

@overlandingomar 10 месяцев назад

As always a great video. I’m a little intrigued about your setup. It’s not quite a rail on rail system, but very similar. I might not be getting it, but is the weight of the box sitting on six points of contact on both the truck chassis and the box subframe? As you mentioned corrosion between them and you were removing the wood. My system is a rail on rail system with 12 mm conveyor belt rubber strip between the chassis rail and box rails.

@BruceandKrista 10 месяцев назад

Basically used to be rail on rail, but now the old “rail” is the sub-frame, which rests on 6 spring mounting points (and there will be two more weight bearing but “free moving” points at the very front!). The box sits with its entire weight spread over the entire flat deck (which is the top side of the sub-frame). So, habitat box sits on flat deck, deck is sub-frame, sub frame spring mounted to chassis!

@M4Nathan007 10 месяцев назад

Question: If you don't use a subframe with this style composite box and then hit a trail with moderate offroading, what are the consequences? Are the composite panels stiff enough that they might crack? Or the glue would separate things? Or is it just going to limit some chassis flex?

@BruceandKrista 10 месяцев назад

Great question - would be concerned of all of those happening - I would be the most concerned with damage to the composite box. If you have it mounted to a rigid sub frame, then potentially you can concentrate all the stress in the center section of the chassis and cause it to crack.

@backbeatpat 10 месяцев назад

That is why I trying a soft box and building in allowances for movement.

@jameelbandar 9 месяцев назад

What about the gap between the subframe and the main frame? How far should be?

@BruceandKrista 9 месяцев назад

The size of the gap only needs to be big enough to prevent water and debris from building up between the two surfaces. If it does - the debris will mechanically grind away at the paint as the sub-frame moves, and the water will get between the paint and the steel and cause corrosion.

@jgegere 3 месяца назад

Trying to follow the electrical issue you found or did not find? Can you link me to a solution video if you recorded it?

@BruceandKrista 3 месяца назад

Not sure which electrical issue you are trying to follow - I’ve had a few! If you the videos view by playlist, you should be able to find the videos following whichever one it was you were watching… ru-vid.com/group/PLy2lw8MIt9lrrMQWY3IPBXYmr2BwNs_DV&si=CMwH8T9CoqpCx6LF

@jgegere 3 месяца назад

@@BruceandKrista ha, I looked through all your videos and the lists you created before I sent the message. :P Ahh this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cPGCI1QeRXE.html&pp=iAQB I thought there was a more direct fix, your resolution is to find a new board.

@BruceandKrista 3 месяца назад

Yeah I haven’t actually replaced it yet - but keeping eye out for a used one. Once I get a used one I’d be more confident opening this one up to see if I can spot anything obvious - but for now I just have a kill switch and a float charger 😎