I show how to use the Matco version of the PowerBar to loosen the harmonic balancer bolt from a Subaru 2.5 engine. Then I show how I sometimes remove the Harmonic Balancer by wiggling it loose. PowerBar Tool Private Brand Tools PBT70866
Top tip: use a shorter socket. It will help transfer more of the impact to the bolt and keep the socket on the bolt. You should only use sockets and extension when you need to and go short when you can.
It works just fine, you just lack motor-coordination. You kept twisting "off-plane." If there was a circle intending from the center of the crack pulley nut at 90 degrees (simply put; same plane as the harmonic balancer. Just "enlarged" to the length of the PowerBar's arm) and whose diameter is the length of the arm on the PowerBar, you had the PowerBar "inserted" at a few degrees off-plane, which would result in the socket slipping of the nut when the rotation reached "apogee" (or aphelion. Depending on whether you prefer the Sun or Moon being the basis for the analogy XD)
I learned yesterday there are 2 small holes one on each side of the bell housing about half way down you can put large screwdriver in to hold the engine from turning while removing subaru harmonic balancer from my 96 subaru with an automatic transmission......
Well, it appears that 'Occam's Razor' (commenter below) has decided to baffle us with condescending bullshit. So much for the simplest explanation, eh dude? Let me try: You gotta keep it square on the nut, and using a shorter socket helps with that. See? Simple. TMT obviously knows that, because he kept squaring-up the best impact socket he had between rounds. So whatever on you, OR. Anyway, I bought a Power Bar too, on the 'Car Wizard's' recommendation. In fact, you can buy one from his Amazon store. Plus, he used one in a 'Hoovie's Garage' video and it worked like a charm. Unfortunately, it was a minor side-note in the video, and not fully shown or explained. I suspect it's the angle between the two arms that is the key, and I'm off to find out if I can.