I have actually did this to my slave cylinder. The problem is, with moving the slave cylinder forward, it makes my clutch pedal release lower than the hill holder kicks out, making it impossible to let out clutch without stalling. May have to tweak some things around. Great content, love your videos!
Thanks, your video is awesome and super easy to follow. This will help me a lot, I thought I would have to disconnect my transmission. It was hard to hear your instructions over the music though. Thanks again.
Thank god, my noise is horrible. Also have a 99 forester this noise is on. Gonna try this also as well as spray a little lithium grease down the bell housin. The squeak of the clutch being pushed in will help with grease. Did this to my 2011 Impreza and the squeak went away forever. Everything functioned normally
2014 Brz had it when i first got it. Second owner, 52,000 miles on it now; only driven it 3000 miles so far. Mechanic grandpa of 40+ years said its not a big issue. A year later just yesterday my clutch is slipping passed first gear. Nice smell to it as well. Not sure if it's because of how im driving or its just time to replace it. I keep my foot away from the clutch pedal, rarely ever downshift to a slowing stop, try my hardest to maintain proper rpms when shifting. I dont think its my doing, well hopefully not.
Just found your channel,,,Buying a Forester XT Turbo for fun on trails, obviously going to raise it and put All Terrain tyres on. Look foward to watching more of your vids. Thanks
After a new clutch, flywheel and throwout bearing my car was chattering. I'd I pushed very gently on the fork or clutch pedal, the sound went away. This video was referred from mechanic's group. It literally took 0 3 seconds to say THATS THE SOUND! Dremel with a carbide filing bit, took off MAYBE 2mm to make the hole larger moving it back the same? Chatter gone! 5 minutes, 10 if you include soaking those bolts in PB blaster for a few. Thanks for posting!!!
While I appreciate your site and enthusiasm. The throughout bearing fix has now made the throughout bearing ride on the clutch tines 100% of the time. This will make the noise go away, but will shorten the life of your throughout bearing. I did the same grinding but the opposite direction on slave bracket and added a spring that attached to wire wrapped below slave push rod on arm, then attached a long spring from wire on throughout arm , wrapped spring around whole slave cylinder and back to opposing side of wire on clutch arm. I'd love to attach a picture. Works like a dream. Also you need to adjust the spring by stretching or clutch peddle won't come off floor easily : )
There is also a small plastic part for activate your clutch (inside clutch case) it breaks at my friends forester in his holidays. No problem to get a workshop but it take 3 days for delivery the part.Its the only weak point in the foresters clutch.
Hi, I have a genuine question, not hating. Wouldn't doing this destroy the throwout bearing quicker, as there is constant extra pressure on the bearing while its spinning? Just the same way that riding the clutch wares out the throwout bearing quicker? I have the same issue with my Subaru Forester, and hoping that fixing this problem is that easy! Great vid, thanks for the idea
This noise happen because the throw out bearing is to far away from the clutch. You can't push it too much (and damaging everything) using this technique
Great stuff man. Next time you might want to put some paper or a plastic bags to collect the metal dust and also plug a rug in the air intake. This dust usually contains particles of the tool and it's extremely abrasive. Most likely nothing is going to happen but some precaution is always a good idea.
Thanks, good common sense thinking, I thought the new t/out bearing sleeve shoulder would need to be trimmed thinner because the t/out bearing is not moving back far enough to stop rolling on the clutch fingers. Opposite of your reasoning but still a solution. For me, music in the background of a classroom is noise that irritates so I steer clear of them, but not this time, I used mute often though.
I have the same noise coming from my manual 05 forester. The noise is here in neutral and also in gear, but goes away anytime I press on the cutch a little bit, is the noise gonna go away with this solution? or is that a symptom of bad input shaft bearing? Please help :) thank you! Is this solution going to prematurely wear the clutch? Thanks
Any idea about this issue on my 2004 Impreza wagon manual, 156,000 miles? Clutch replaced 20,000 miles ago. Center Differential replaced 200 miles ago. Noise started after center diff replacement, about 100 miles later. Does not make noise in turns (except when coasting). A mild clicking/tapping noise (sounds soft like playing card in bike spoke) is present when coasting in any gear, front main transaxle area (transmission). It varies in frequency and speed, according to the output shaft RPMs, and sometimes it's quieter or not there at all. It's probably a small piece of flat wire from a piece of seal that got away during clutch or center differential replacement. Doesn't seem to affect operations though. Does it about 80% of the time, but is not noticeable 50% of that time. It's quiet enough where talking, dirt roads, road noise, or any stereo masks it. Doesn't make the noise when it's under load...as in forward or reverse gears in play, clutch released. Any ideas, other than debris in case? Thanks!
Absolutely not, for both. 😉 The point of it is not to engage the clutch or pre-presse the slave cylinder but just to remove the small gap the throw out bearing can have.
I had the squaking sound also, it actually was the bearing itself. I could generate the sound with the engine off. Even with the cilinder removed from the car it still made the sound. Gues it was a bit rusty.
@@ALNSMOVERLAND in milage like 3000 not much. In time 1.5 years. It still makes the sound. I oiled it and the sound was gone for a few days. Came back and have the feeling there is some air in the hydraulic system. The piston comes out if I remove it. A garage said that's normal. But I think liquids aren't compressable so it shouldn't do this.
It's not the bearing itself but the case holding the bearing spinning on the clutch plate release fingers. If you follow the video it just takes up that tiny slack so the bearing turns and actually uses the bearing instead of squeaking and burning thru the outer bearing holder and scoring the release fingers.
Its a nice quick fix but wont last long. The squeaking noise happends because slave cylinder loses its effectivity due to wear of internal parts. Repair kit is cheap & the repair is relatively easy. In your case , after trimming the holes, wait untill the noise comes back and replace the whole cylinder. Also cheap part. 🍻
Alors au bout de 6 mois ça donne quoi ? Mon foz le fait aussi et j'aimerais savoir si je devrais juste changer le slave cylinder entier, ou remplacer le throwout bearing, ou si ta solution tient sur le temps :D
So today is exactly one year (which is completely coincidence that I watch it again on this specific day) since you've done this fix. How has the foz been doing in regard to clutch and gearbox? Have you replaced the throw out bearing or is it still running exactly as it was a year ago?
When the throw out bearing makes noise its because the bearing is worn out. This is a bandaid fix(literally just makes it quieter and oblongs the slave cylinders holes for no good reason) . Doing this does not fix your actual problem, which is a bad throw out bearing. Which you'll be replacing anyways soon after you try this "fix" because eventually the bearings will lock up in the throw out bearing.
You are not wrong. But this noise happend a few months after rebuilding the clutch system, including a brand new throw out bearing. So maybe it was a bad quality one or maybe not. Still, this fix is easier and quicker than replacing the throw out bearing.
@@ALNSMOVERLAND it definitely sounds like it was defective from the factory. But as I said before, it means that it definitely wont be long before the bearings completely lock up and it has to be replaced
Couldnt u put a longer pin? Just asking. I m having an issue i replaced my slave n CMC after my clutch just going out suddenly. I was driving n kinda feeling something funny n i kinda jerked it to just see n then POW no mas clutch. I put a new slave n CMC n it seems i cant get it bled right n i know its a bitch but just wondering cuz ive never owned a subie n none of my buddies either so i have no ones brain to pick. Im 41 n have worked on my own cars since 14 n its just frustrating
Fix it right or slave will dump piston all the way out losing fluid and leaving you in gear with a pedal stuck to the floor! This guy is a kook telling people to do this. I mean look at the tools he is using lol! A rusty pair of channel locks and some barbed wire and good as new mate ! Wtf?! Some people should not be allowed to make videos. He could likely get someone killed when their car stalls on the freeway crossing !
@ALNSM OVERLAND Hey I'm a French in Canada! I try to figure out that sound. But it's look like it is not the same. When I release the clutch in a hill or it has to force on it, it is squealing only once the clutch is fully release then go away with a normal RPM or come back with a higher pitch while forcing/accelerating in a hill on the highway. Any chance someone has that or IT IS That? Thanks for your videos Forester 2.5xs 2008
ALNSM OVERLAND yeah for sure the same noise, it helped a bit but not much. Im replacing the clutch fork with the new Verus forged fork, maybe it’s bent and needs replacing. I’m basically going to replace wverything
Tanner Aronson I actually didn’t end up replacing the fork, the noise was the fork rattling against the pivot pin. I put some lithium grease on the pivot pin and put it all back together. Worked like a charm! DO NOT OVER GREASE IT YOU’LL FUCK THE CLUTCH UP! 👌🏻
