Thank you! Im only 17 yr of age and i have been watching 100s of videos on how to replace the timing belt, however, you happen to be the only person to show the actual belt installation! All the pieces are fine but i was having trouble replacing the actual belt! Thank you!
Love your videos, and thank you for making them. Just wanted to point out something on this. You have the two smooth idler pulleys swapped. The smooth idler with the back flange is supposed to go on the bottom side of the engine.
Keep in mind everyone that he has the idlers on the left side of the motor backwards the one with the lip is supposed to be on the bottom for the EJ25 single overhead cam motor. Other than that this video is very good at explaining how to do it.
Thank you so much for this i was following the subaru PDF shop book manual for this and was struggling with and scared of the pistons and valves would touch, but your video assured me i was doing it right with the crank mark lined up first and with your steps i was able to get it all set first time!!
Maybe I'm missing something, but when you remove the timing cover, why couldn't you just put a witness mark on the crank that aligns with the block and do the same for each cam? As long as the crank and cams are in the same position when you took the belt off and put the new on, I can't see the point of aligning the crank and cams to the factory witness marks before removing the belt? Is this just a best practice? What am I missing? Very interesting video by the way. I'm trying to prepare for when it comes time to do this myself.
Thanks for the nice video. Trying to make a shopping list of everything I need to do the job and get all my parts ready since my sub is my only car. Looks like the same as my engine. Shouldn't there be marks on the timing belt to make sure it's lined up and the right tension with the sprockets anyway?
hi, i love your method of fitting the belt by pulling it tight and holding it down, especially since none of the belt marks seem right anymore. Ive been wrestling the belt on my 03 baja sohc for hours and its always about a tooth width off on one of the cam sprocket marks. Is close enough just good enough on these things? if i adjust it one tooth its even farther off on the next rotation. Ive put it on by tooth count, belt marks and your way and its always the same. thanks
Excellent video, there are so many other videos put there that dont explain things as well as you do. Its a little over whelming trying to get some information on how to do something on a car your not familiar with and the videos online just tell you just set it like this and it will work. Well it doesnt work that way. Again excellent video and very well put
Excellent job mate what size belt did you use for some reason my new belt i ordered was too short so i had to put back in the old belt and i cant seem to track down the write size belt
First, great video, very helpful, thank you! Just my two cents, but after I replaced the timing belt on my ladies 2005 outback... it was idling roughly and dying. I'm not sure if the belt needed a bit of break in... but, after reading other posts about the balancer, I realized that maybe I had over tightened the power steering/alt, and AC belts. I loosened them just a few turns to take the tension down a bit... and now the car seems to be running perfectly. I'm not sure if the timing belt needed break in, or if the accessory belts being a bit tight was the problem. Anyway, that is just my two cents... thanks again for the great video!
When you found the washer that fell that goes with the hydraulic tensioner, their might have been another small rubber ring that goes between that washer, and the engine when it's fastened. My 03 outback was that way when i removed the piece.
Dude.... Whoa.... Drivers side cam.... How do you keep it from rotating because when you line up marks on belt and crank and both cam sprockets the drivers side cam will be up on a lobe and will not stay put
Hello R&W, I'm reinstalling my timing belt. The mark on my crank shaft pulley is at 6 o'clock and the marks on both cam shafts are at 8 o'clock. When I turn my crank shaft pulley clockwise I feel it hits something that makes it stop. Can I turn the cam shafts first to the correct position and then the crank shaft or does that have to go first? Can I only turn in a clock wise position? Great videos by the way.
I just tried your trick of putting the extensions in the harmonic balancer holes and using a pry bar to balance the counterweight of torquing the correct foot pounds for the harmonic balancer bolt, and an extension bent the metal of my harmonic balancer. Once I can afford a new one I guess I'll also have to afford the special tool because I sure won't try that again. :-(
I installed my kit using your video. One question.. after you do 2 rotations to line the marks back up, how the heck do you get the big bolt out with out Turing the engine backwards? I tried holding the open face pully with a tool and it made the belt skip a tooth. I had to start all over. Scratching my head here. Thanks
4:13 I have the service manual and it says to torque them CLOCKWISE, not counter clockwise. Not sure how vital that really is, but i thought i would add that tid bit to help who ever attempts this on their own.
the Woodruff key is mangled on the crankshaft pulley, threw timing off and unable to pull it out to replace it. Do I have to take tensioner and pulley out to replace? or are there any magic tricks that I can do? Thanks. best detailed video out there. Nice work
Why didn't you line up the two white marks that are on the new belt to the marks on the camshaft sprockets? That's what they are there for to get proper tension. Right?
I was careful to align the white lines on the timing belt material as well as what you demonstrate for the cams and the crank. However, this did not provide enough room to add the sprocket after the water pump. I think removing the slack as you show is the solution; but, can't understand why the physical marks on the belt don't allow for no slack.
2 questions. If you accidentally rotate the crankshaft to align the timing mark without the belt but was successful lining it up. What will happen? What will you have to do to line up the timing marks if the belt is off already and the cam/ valves are out of sync. does not turn clockwise it stuck. This happened to me already, but I want to see how you would correct the problem. I made a mistake! I lost my mind and took off the belt and started to rotate it with a ratchet. Thanks
I had the Timing Crank/Crank gear or whatever, slice the teeth of my belt. Any insight? Car was idle for 5 seconds, heard some knocks then nothing. seize? any insight or experience with the ej25 timing belt well appreciated. Thank you. 2002 forester, 200,000 ...so the belt was overdue for a change.
When I try to align the notch on the driver side cam, there seems to be a spring that kind of whips it past the mark. It happens even when I turn clockwise slowly. Is this normal?
Can someone tell me, do it matter which way I spin the cams? I pulled the heads on my legacy for a headgasket job, and accidentally spun the cams while pulling the heads off - now I can turn them clockwise to line the marks back up but it feels super loose - It feels tighter if I turn counter clockwise
l tried to put a 2003EJ25 in time after my friend called me and said the ca stoped running when put the cams in line with marks the passenhas 1 to 11/2 inch amount of play and the marks on belt advance about 1 inch what could it be ? maybe bent valves. thank you
I havent done it in the car, but you'll probably need to remove the radiator fan and probably the power steering pump and or ac compressor and set them aside. GL
nice video. soy mecanico de el salvador en centroamerica .very nice .bien explicado. necesito un video como calibrar punterias y el orden de ellas. contestar. gracias
When the dot or square on the crank gear is straight up and the arrow is at 3pm, the pistons are halfway in the bores. That's where you want it, if you are at TDC and a cam wheel springs around, you can damage a valve. Most cars you do this at TDC (arrow on crank gear up) but you better not on this motor.
Crankshaft seal question. If it leaks...what sort of oil will spill... Engine oil? Or gearbox oil...? Timing belt and seal were replaced by subaru. Drive home...gearbox oil all over the left side of the motor compartment. Telling by the smell of it...gearbox oil...
RatchetsAnd Wrenches i had to reinstall my water pump as I overlooked the side, L-shaped washer. I bought and used a separate water pump gasket. holding up well so far. Thanks for getting back to me this video was awesome. Question, when you installed this timing belt you had it on in seconds. I observed how you installed the cogged idler last and put it on top of the belt and bolted it in. My belt didn't have the slack to allow that. Took me 15min to wrestle it on my first time and when i redid it after turning one of my camshafts around to correct engine vibrations, it took two hours. Did you get it on so easy due to re-using a timing belt? I started at the passenger side cam sprocket, made my way through the top pulleys to the driver side cam sprocket, down to water pump and then struggled from there. I tried with and without the cogged idler installed. It sucked either way. I eventually installed the cogged idler and pulled the belt under it from the left, and then pulled as much slack as I could from the right side and still struggled to get it up over the water pump. 2nd question - Was I imagining things or are the two heads supposed to be in some phase of stroke relative to each other to make the engine run smoothly? If so, is there something else to syncing them other than making sure the timing markings on the sprockets are straight up?
Hi, I need your help please, I have a Subaru Legacy 1998 with ej20 sohc, spark plugs wires sit directly on the cylinder head, not the one with spark plugs wires through the valve cover Throttle with wire not the fully electric one Running with obd1 computer It is front wheel drive not AWD Can I put on an ej25 on my car? And which ej25 will fit in direct without replacing parts and without modifications on electrical harnesses ?
thesniperofcs I suggest checking one of the Subaru forum boards. I haven't looked up much Legacy (till now) but here's some links to get you started sl-i.net/FORUM/ forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=13 www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/ www.legacygt.org/forums/ www.topix.com/forum/autos/subaru-legacy I also saw some promising links by googling "subaru legacy mods" gl!
It was reversed like that when he removed the idlers, whoever did the last belt got it wrong. Also I probably wouldn't torque on the tensioner roller bolt, just remove the idlers in the reverse order of when he put then back on and use a vise to slowly compress the tensioner piston. Otherwise, not a bad video for EJ25s
Why did you remove your crankshaft gear? If your crankshaft seal isn't leaking, is there a purpose in removing the crankshaft gear? Because I left mine alone. It was lined up and the seal wasn't leaking and it doesn't get replaced in the kit, so I never removed it.
its a ton of work to get the engine out, if you have it pretty much right in front of you it makes sense to just replace it anyways - at least the way i see it with those engines
Not too bad a job. I haven't done it yet but why did you wrestle the belt on the hard way??? If you tensioned it up along the bottom run, working around anticlockwise, then put the tensioner on last when there's some remaining slack for it to take up you wouldn't have all that fooling around with the left camshaft. Also it's not 9 foot per pounds, it's 9 foot pounds. Torque is the product of the force and the distance!!!
The pulley next to the crankshaft gear has no flange, the pulley with the flange should be the last one you installed.... I do not think it will make any difference but that is what I found on factory assemblies.
I started at the crank gear and went to the right under the tension and around then did the left top side. Then did the idler gear by the water pump and finally the last smooth tensioner underneath. I think it doesn't matter as long as you do the idler gear second to last and smooth tensioner bottom left last.
I just hope I was tight enough on top, it was really hard to put the idler gear on to the left of the water pump. A lot harder than it was for you. I guess I'll see. I was able to get the notch to line up on the drivers side then I pulled the belt tight and the line on the belt was right where the mark was. But I barely had enough slack on the bottom, had to loosely put the idler gear on and slide the belt on the teeth then pull like hell to get it over the waterpump. It looked like your belt was longer than mine and that makes me nervous. But I also feel like I couldn't have stretched my belt another tooth on top, it didn't have a tooth to give. It's a gates belt, it's the correct belt.
Clearanceman2 Thats because the poster installed the belt the hard way. Most will install in the following method: top left idler, cogged idler, tensioner, then bottom left idler. What the poster did really risks cross threading the idler bolts.
