Today I wanted to compare my sealed enclosure to my ported enclosure. Hopefully this helps you guys make a decision. Music: "Sight (FUll Beat Tape)" - Big Dogs / noshty-full-beat-tape Follow me on Instagram @yonny_nolls
If you want accurate sound quality then sealed is the way to go. If you want ridiculously loud bass and don’t care about sound quality then ported. Sealed can hit hard, you just need more power and a sub that can handle that power!
Yonny Nolls that's still not going to work the vibration is going to make everything inside your car shake it's simple as that, if you don't want the vibration you should just use 6×9's👍👍
Not everyone wants to shake the shit out of their vehicles. Some people just want a little bit more bass that 6x9s can't really provide, at least compared to a decent 12. I, on the other hand, love to shake the shit out of my vehicle. Mostly because, the closer I get to my 30s, the more of an asshole I become, and the less I care about other peoples' opinions.
you can test for yourself what sealed is kinda like. Just filled your ported box with POLLY. I did this, and istantly, INSTANTLY, I noticed the bass quality difference. A polly, ported box done RIGHT is actually my favorite. You get that loud bass, but the polly makes it more tight. the Bass notes are clean with the polly, the bass note doesn't resonate into the next. Helps to clean that muddy sound.
I second this. A poly filled ported box sounds excellent in my opinion. I even throw some in the port itself (you have to get creative sometimes so the poly or insulation doesn’t blow out the port.) It’s like you get the best of both worlds. You get the increased output that a ported box normally gives you with a very controlled sound like sealed gives you. It might not be quite as tight and quick as a sealed box, but in my experience sealed is only the bees knees when the car is parked or you have lots of subs with lots of power. Once road noise comes into play, the subtle, delicate sound a sealed box gives you goes out the window as certain notes get drowned out. Not so with a poly filled ported box. You hear and fee every note. On the other hand, a ported box without poly usually has some annoying ringing and there’s a few notes that just aren’t quite there SQ-wise.
I've always been a sealed box guy. Back in the day I had two 15" Kicker Solo Baric in my Cutlass. Powered by a PPI A1200.2 Art Series. Shook the rearview mirror off of the windshield. Had ported and bandpass before and it never did that shit. It would rattle your eyeballs and you couldn't see straight, or breathe for that matter lol. Sealed always hit harder to me. Actually still have two of the PPI A1200.2 amps left. I always swore by PPI back in the day.
The sound quality of the subs makes depends on the amount of air that's able to move freely. A subs location is key to deciding whether you should go with a sealed or ported box. If you place an enclosure in the trunk. It will sound different compared to a hatchback, wagon or Suv. That’s because the there is less free air in the trunk compared to the hatch/SUV, where the air can travel back and forth without the impedance of the walls and seats. A ported box concentrates the internal air at a single focal point, then releases that energy like a shot gun throughout the cabin or trunk. That causes a "boomy" sound effect people refer too. The Sealed box relies on the movement of the external air. As the Sub moves back and forth, it creates a negative and positive pressure. That pressure difference is what causes your interior space to resonate and enables you to “feel’’ the bass more. The tradeoff being the Sealed box will not sound as loud as the ported box. That’s due to the energy loss of the sub having to create positive pressure within the box. However, the +/- pressure within the box is what causes the quick response or “accurate” bass. The ported box does not have this buildup of spring pressure but instead relies on the enclosure to focus the internal air at a specific frequency range.
most people out there just want loud bass.. they dont care about the sound quality. i personally find that my 12 inch sub in an sealed box has more than enough bass. i like a more flat frequency response though and the sealed box makes amazing job and in my opinion. it is closer to what the most music producers vision their songs to be heard.
This is actually a great video because your explanation was so easy to follow. Odd that you only demoed the ported box and not the sealed one. Also, you literally can't be a basshead and not have your car rattle. That would be like taking up cigarette smoking and not wanting to smell like cigarette smoke.
If all you listen to is rap then go ported. If you listen to everything else..go sealed with a 750 or more rms sub or 2. And a good amp and call it a day. Sealed boxes are so accurate and tight and excel in sq. A ported box built properly can be good too but i found only certain genres sounded good on ported boxes whereas sealed boxes played everything well and with great sq.
Sound deadening mat does wonders! I am the same way man, I had my car tore apart three or 4 different times trying to play with the mat and some other insulating materials. I love that deep thud/boom u get with no other noises. Rattling also will have u thinking ur speakers are blown as well. Lol it's enough to make a sane man mad! Lbvs
Heres what I do. 50hz fs and up put in a sealed box. 50hz fs and below put in a ported box. All my midbass component speakers are in custom sealed door pods. Specs of a given driver helps to determine what type of box to put it in. Most subwoofers can be placed in both. But some are more specific and are either designed for a sealed or ported box. So pay attention. It comes down to application really.
Good point! I'll add, most GOOD Subs will come with a Spec Sheet.... Besides telling you what you just bought, it should explain what the minimum amount of Volume that your Box needs to be. Bigger would be better - but TOO Big will leave you with boomy, muddy Bass. It SHOULD tell you Box Volume for both Sealed and Ported. Ported Boxes nearly always need more Volume than a Sealed Box. In a Ported Box, Port dimensions are as critical as Box Volume!! If you don't know what length/width/diameter/wall thickness you'll need, there are thousands of websites that can offer some direction. .... If you're not going to Match the Port with the Box, desired Frequency, or to the Speaker itself - don't even bother! Just get a Sealed Box of the right Volume, and be done. AND - if you're not going to make sure that your Sealed Box is SEALED..... again don't bother. Get your $20 Box on EvilBay, and call it finished. Taking a little extra time and money, you CAN build your own Box, that will Blow Your Mind!!!
Okay Yonny, To solve the problem of rattles. This can become very expensive if you listen to the shop guys. Obviously because they want to sell their product which has been marked up at least 10% on the product itself. Mainly a specific product that has the market cornered and I'm referring to Dynamat. I personally think it is a great WASTE OF MONEY!!!! I have a much cheaper, easier to install and much better sound deadening!!! However it is still time consuming. I used, spray foam, in ALL empty cavities including inside the doors and deck lids along with anywhere behind the panels after removal. This product is easily applied and after it has dried, it's easy to cut or trim away from any vital parts, windows, and wires. Then I bought a couple of cases of under car sound deadening rubberized spray paint. Spray the backside of all panels careful not to spray switches or motors. The next cheap trick is to go to the junkyard and pull any make model vehicles factory sound deadening backing material, and a can of spray adhesive. Fill in any and all empty areas. I even doubled the existing materials. Now after panels have dried and are ready for installation go to hardware store to the plumbing section and buy rubber washers or valve seats. Install these both behind and in front of all speaker screws. I guarantee you that if you take care and stay vigilant the reward is WELL worth it. My Ford taurus sounds like a Mercedes Benz it's so quite. Another positive is ability to play music louder without disturbing the public. An extra bit of information about clean up. Acetone for rubber paint, and I found the easiest way to get foam off is to let it dry then use pressure washer. Definitely want latex gloves as well and doesn't hurt to use painters tape and thrifty nickels to cover the things you do not wish to get sprayed.
Agreed, for the price and simplicity of them it is a very nice addition unless your head unit has subwoofer control built in then it's kinda pointless.
I love ported box, if you take a seal box out of your car it doesn't give you the amount of bass that the ported box would give you outside the car. Ported box is a good all rounder. But it depends on what you like. I love reggae and hip hop so ported is my choice.
while that sealed box *is* small for a sealed box for a 12" sub (going from 1 cu ft to 1.4 cu ft with a 12" sub with decent parameters gives noticeably more usable output in the 35-45Hz range), that ported box is actually *not* huge for a ported box for a 12" sub (around 1.5 cu ft after port displacement) and again it's likely tuned to around 45Hz. with a 12" sub with decent parameters, you'd really be looking at 2.2 cu ft after port displacement and tuned to ~30Hz for full potential, which would noticeably give more usable output in the 25Hz-45Hz range, so with a technically small box relative to the sub size, you (general you) are really missing out on the sub's full potential and a lot of low frequency extension, and in that case should consider instead stepping down a sub size and going with a 10" sub in a 1.65 cu ft ported box tuned to ~33Hz, or if that"s "too big", stepping down a sub size again and going with an 8" sub in a 1.1 cu ft ported box tuned to ~35Hz, for example. good video though
Misleading, an amplifier has an easier time powering a sealed sub, the sub uses less power when sealed because the trapped air acts like a spring, its only quieter because the back half of the sub isn't loaded by the port. thats why amps run a lot cooler powering sealed setups.
Have always built my own boxes sealed of course, to spec and put more power than needed to run them as you should amyhow, then tune the amp, not an expert but have ran old school Cerwin Vegas, Rockford HE 2, directed audio 12's in a 4 runner with 3k watts, they bounced the wipers off the windshield playing that 3, 6 Mafia
I don't think your system sucks. Ignore the assholes. It's a better system than what I started out with. I used to have a 10" powered subwoofer that I bought from Wal-Mart. It was one of those Dual branded ones. Had it in my CRX, before I sold it. And then, after I got the minivan, I moved onto a 12" Dual in a sealed box. It wasn't until just this year that I started getting serious about upgrading my car audio. And that's because I got great deals on used equipment from friends, and around town. Currently, I am rocking two Alpine Type R 12s, and two Kicker Comp 12s, with each set being in their own ported box. All four are being powered by a "1200 watt" Pioneer amp (only pushes up to 500 RMS at 4 ohms), that I got with the Kickers for $100 with the box. I already had the Alpines in my van, which I had also got for only $100 with the box they are in. So my buddy and I just threw them in together, and they sound really good. Even though I have a small, separate, amp up front for my door speakers, this combo can easily overpower the highs and mids. Thank god for an in-line volume knob. Point here is that everyone starts somewhere. Most of us probably started with little crap systems that nobody else cared about, but we loved. Once you get more serious about it, look around and you'll find amazing deals on great equipment, usually being sold by someone who doesn't know the true value of what they have, or just needs the money. As far as the rattling goes, I think rattling is one of the best parts of the hobby. Not everyone's cup of tea, of course. But my wife and I love it when we can get everything to rattle.
I started with a CRAIG AM/FM *Cassette!!!* 😱😫 For further effect, I added one of those "Professional Amp/EQs" that claimed *250 Watts* even though it was smaller than my hand. It MAY have had 12-14 Watts per Channel - with an UNGODLY amount of Distortion!! If THAT wasn't enough, you mounted it by DRILLING HOLES into your Dashboard or Console, and screwed it in using the supplied UGLY L-Brackets!!! It was 1983, I was an IDIOT Teenager. In my Long Life, I don't think I've even SEEN a more CRAP Car "Stereo"!!!
Mine isn't, sadly. That was my first teenage stereo! The standard Stereo in the cheapest Car today, is 10X better than that POS!! 35 years ago,we thought THAT was the Shit..... Now we know it was just SHIT!!
Lol man I started off with systems in home, with a speaker system with a 4inch sub, then a RCA system with a 6.5. Now I have 2 Skar 15s on 3K. So everyone has to start somewhere
shit I'm 15 started with an ds18 8 inch select series sub still have now I have 2 dual electronics 12s in my room in a ported box for home audio and then I've had an 60 watt home amp that blew cause two wires touched but it's easy to replace it's a 22 buck home amp I have another on the way with a pair of 3.5 inch tweeters and crossovers oh and the amp that's powering the subs is a 100watt RMS amp and it over heats like hell cause it's doing its job and pushing them bitches and I'll say that as my first car audio system I'd want 6 CT sounds 18s I forgot what series they are but they're 600 watts RMS then for amps I'd use 2 1500 watt RMS audiopipe amps and a cheap lil 4 channel mids and highs amp and mids and highs would be CT sounds 8 inch mids and probably a pioneer head unit and 2 xs power batteries with 2 or 4 mechman alternators oh all the subs in the trunk of a 2010 or 12 crown Vic LMAO
For 12's, use ported. I like a single 10" in a sealed box (0.50 cu.ft.), because I can shake the ground with a 250w rms Alpine sub. Also signal-to-noise is important. i.e. HU: 105dB SUB: 86.5dB AMP: 70dB gives me 261.5dB( 10" range 260dB to 270dB) Max volume: 9. With a 12-inch, if you can find a 120dB head unit you would have up-and-off as volume choices. Everyone goes for peak overpower, stay on budget and overpower between 20 watts to 100 watts (from RMS).
Just get a custom built box built to your ear satisfaction. If you like tight bass but loud get a ported box built to 40hz because you get both of best worlds
I'd say a 33. 40 may get some port noise or sum, it'd get low but not that low. I'd go with a 33, highs and low. If you only want highs, sealed, lows, 26 tune
Alllllrighty. So first off , good on you for making a vid for those who are looking into getting sound. Having said that after listening to your setup , your amp needs a major upgrade. If that’s all you’re getting from a ported box with a 12.. you’re lacking power dude. Here’s what I did. Not that you’d care but for anyone reading the comments. Here you go. Started off with the head unit .. I feel like that’s a very important first upgrade. Then I moved onto the mids and tweeters. Lastly I did the sub and amp. My music taste is hella diverse. I do tend to lean towards rap. So .. I got myself a “ entry level “ pioneer d311 d4 running at 2 ohms on a 700w rms monoblock. It works for essentially all music genres but it lacks the low drops that you get with a ported. So what I did was I got myself a 8000w dvc 12” comp sub that can handle far more than my amp can provide ( I like knowing I can’t hurt it ). That’s in a ported enclosure built to spec .. this allows me to chop and change box types / subs depending on my mood. Best of both worlds. A fair warning to those who are venturing into car audio or more specifically subs. Although a sealed enclosure is less prone to causing damage to your subwoofer. It can happen. There is a point where you can demand too much from it and essentially overheat the voice coils with power. Ported enclosures are definitely touch and go. Unless you’re running a spl subwoofer that was ultimately designed for good excursion. You will bottom your sub out and clip the voice coil. So be careful and always have a sub that’s either stronger than your amp by at least 100-200w rms. Or limit your amps gain to match the power value of your subwoofer. This will prevent you from overpowering your investment. Cheers.
I know people are gonna hate but I used to love extreme bass when I was younger . Now that I have been around car audio for over 30 years and finally settled down and had kids and family I truly feel like 2 - 15 inch 1000 watt rms subs in a sealed box tuned at about 35 to 45hz on a 1500 to 2000 watt rms amp with crossover set at 60 - 80hz gives you the best sounding bass that will get loud as fu@# but you can play at lower volume and still have enough sound quality and bass to satisfy even the bass head in you . I hit 140 db easy if I want to turn it up and it plays every note not just the super low notes . If you try that on a ported low tuned box you will get that funky burnt voice coil smell . If you try smaller subs you wont get deep low notes unless its ported and tuned low .
If you’re going to get a ported box, you have to give up a bit more space with a bigger enclosure to really see the full benefit of ported. Also, not sure what sub you’re using, but for a ported enclosure, it is usually recommended to go with a higher power sub (1000+ rms), improving the movement of air. For lower powered subs a sealed enclosure will usually see better results.
With my small knowledge of what ports do I think the sealed will be more consistent but overall quieter while the ported will have some louder peaks but also fall off at a point
The rattle will never go away with subs, all my cars have had subs and even a brand new Lexus rattles after a few months of listening. You think it rattles bad now wait a year later.
I am running a fi audio 18 on 4K in a ported box if you want serious bass go with what I have bass knob on the first bar is brutal I’ll do a video soon
You need to ditch that prefab box and have a custom box built with the proper airspace, usually between 2 to 2.25 cubic ft for a 12, and more port area tuned low. Most prefab boxes are tuned higher and most of the time it’s between 40-50 hz. I tune all of my 12” sub boxes between 28-32 hz depending on what sub is going in it. Ported boxes can be an all around great performer when built and tuned properly. It doesn’t have to be all about SPL and the reason people have that perception of ported boxes is because most of them have only ever heard high tuned prefab boxes.
Great job on this video. You explained the core differences in the enclosures clearly and simply. I have done the same with two 8 inch woofers and though I liked the more powerful bass of the ported enclosure, I couldn’t sacrifice the accuracy of the bass on non rap music so I went with sealed.
to fix rattles buy a nice and well built car first, second use sound deadener material to lower the amount of vibrations lastly you can use foam and other materials to insulate panels and wires that may rattle.
Use rubber bands around your rear view mirror. And, sound deadner in the trunk lid. Also, pop the door panels off and put deadner on the backs of the panels and put a strip of electrical tape between the panel and the door where they touch. Should be good with that.
@@roysongarvey2261 I had it set to 37hz but it was just a test so they both was on the same amp. Not a good way to get the best out of both subs but I was still surprised and blown away. Mostly because iv never read anyone doing this. I sents disassemble it but it was an awesome project over the CIVID-19 down time.
@@roysongarvey2261 it will be worth it as they sounded pretty good on my quick setup but I can only imagine how they'd be properly tuned in the right boxes and on separate amp settings. Good Luck 👍
Ported will be boomy because the air moves freely in and out of the box bit its not the best with rock music. the downside to ported is the box needs be fairly large and will take a lot of room. Sealed will be more tight and accurate because the subwoofer acts like a spring and will be punchy and works great with rock music bit. the downside is the lower frequencies will be lost because it cant produce. it just depends what the genre of music
Okay, you said it yourself that you get a punchier, cleaner or more true bass response with the sealed enclosure... The trick with sealed is matching the number of interior cubic inches your specific speaker needs to perform at its best... Too big, you get muddy... Too small, and the speaker doesn't have enough air behind it to displace the air in front, in turn "needing" more amperes to get louder... Now, ported boxes, a true ported box is tuned to a certain resonance frequency... At competitions, peeps will have sized pipes they can quickly install so they can resonate different frequencies raising overall DB levels for different music or test frequencies... I've always used sealed, and I mean sealed... One screw hole without a screw or drilling a hole for the wires instead of a proper terminal can give you a wicked hiss and loss of a few DB from air escaping and re-entering the box... And you want less vibration??? Dynamat (or just sound deadening material in general) the floor and lid of your trunk... Put squares of it behind your door speakers... Throw some down on your floorboard and it will battle road noise along with getting better acoustics... Any sound deadening material is your best friend, not only for better acoustics but for a much quieter ride... And, are you stuffing your box with filler? As a kid, I would tear apart old pillows and put the cotton guts in my speaker cabinets... This helps deaden the sound.
The only reason why this video has soo many Dislikes is because theres so much explaining and “opinions” said and audio heads think their always right, lets be honest here
You know. People always have something negative to say about everything. Bro, as long as you love your system is all that matters. I am overhauling my system. I must say I only use ported pro enclosures because I love the sound but I do not like the rattle. Just take a few hours and locate where all the unwanted sound is happening and eliminate it. Good luck with your system man.
word, some people are retards straight up. some guy at my old apartment building (who has probably never owned a car i might add) put down my JLs and said Pioneers are better.
Take ur mirror off and put a couple of dabs of silicone glue and put it back in. Did this for my 2 12 inch kickers ported box in my honda accord. Stopped the rattling completely. My mirror use to fall off from my bass too.
I just recently switched my 10's from a sealed box to ported box. Night and day difference. It hits so much harder now. I will never use a sealed box again.
A ported box is going to be better on your sub and make it last longer but if you don’t have that big of a sub like a kicker 12” it won’t matter that much but if you have a bigger 12 like an American bass with a big magnet you will need a bigger box with a port or it will suffocate itself essentially
Good demonstration there! The best possible subwoofer for music? There isn't ONE. IMO, Some things in life simply work better in pairs :) TWO subs are mandatory for accurate stereo reproduction, one per channel. Listening to your favourite music on stereo subs is a truly "ear-opening" experience. Converting stereo to mono results in low frequency phase cancellation. Listen to familiar tracks on a single, very large, very powerful, very expensive tower speaker, in MONO. It is disorienting. The effect is very similar in subs. Doesn't matter who designed it, even cheap crappy ported stereo subs will sound better. An expensive mono sub, doesn't sound half as good because half of the sound-stage is missing! Two small sealed subs under the seats in L/R stereo mode just like the other speakers (not bridged/mono) along with a reasonably sized mono sub in the trunk will produce decent accurate bass for a car. Bass coming from a DIY ported box in a car sounds like the same industrial machinery because of some common DIY ported box design issues: 1. Too powerful of a driver+amp combo. 2. Sub-optimal enclosure (too small, trunk size limitation) 3. Not rigid enough. 19mm MDF, not enough bracing, glued butt joints or worse, miter joints!! 4. Port designed in a 'simulator' is only accurate in an anechoic chamber. 5. Sub installed in the wrong environment because a car is a small, hermetically sealed enclosure! 6. Worse in sedans because the trunk is an even smaller sealed chamber. Consequently, peaky and resonant bass because EVERYTHING around the sub is shaking its nuts off. Some people like the 'experience'. For home theater (7.2/7.1/5.1/2.1 etc) applications, any ported sub is decent due to the dedicated ".1/.2" channels. The sub only plays what its meant to play. But stereo music is a whole other ballgame. Don't take my word for it, Try it out :)
Yes both will play differently depending on the genre. ported box will be much boomy because the air moves freely in and out of the enclosure and it will create much deeper bass but isnt the best if for rock music. Ported is the way to go for rock music because the bass will be tight abnd accurate because it acts as a spring. it varies the downside to a sealed box you will loose the lower frequencies below 40hz. depends how its used
Just mount your subs to 3/4" plywood and bolt the plywood to the metal bulkhead behind the back seat, speakers firing forward. That little trunk IS the enclosure. Trust. 😎
Wait, you'll spend all this money on a system, but not $20 on gasket tape to stop the rattles? Most rattles can be solved super easy in an hour. Also a small 1" cloth sleeve for the chain around your rear view mirror.
Great experimental video but I'm a fan of ported boxes but I used to love a sealed box but not anymore my set up is deeper and louder with a ported box.
Some people may not want to shake stuff and just want bass, so my suggestion is to install sound deadening. Also with the mirror I've heard of people putting extra screws in it to prevent it from shaking. I like for stuff to rattle to pieces, but the sound of stuff rattling also doesn't bother me, and I find it fun to see what I can get to rattle. Just whatever preference you have, and hope I could help!
Dynamat is a good material to use to stop rattling. Rear view mirror just needs to be a bit more secured. Bet its probably rattling the hell out of the license plate too. Couple ways to fix it, dyna mat between the frame and plate, bigger washers to secure it better, and the cheap way is bend it a tad with pliers.
I’m ghetto and from the hood. I honestly don’t mind if my trunk rattled i love that shit. I see the old box chevys shakin they trunks like no tommorow. Never had a system in my car. Can’t wait to install I have a 2 12” ported atrend box. Ima put it in my Mazda 3 hatchback
Thank you. I went with 12" sealed 350 watt RMS because I have much better non-hiphop music that has rapid bass melodies with notes under 30Hz and this was able to do it very responsively and with equal volume on all the notes. I only need to hear it and don't need to project it to others. But my rearview mirror does quietly and visible vibrate. Very satisfying distinct and still powerful enough to grip you. Generally I think people who like musical music would like sealed whereas people who want to feel it and share it with other cars around them will like the ported.
I use sealed boxes because (to me) it sounds better. Ported CAN sound good if the box is properly calculated so that you don't get that peak and resonance buzz. I've never heard a prefab ported box sound good, the same goes with a bandpass. They really need to be built for the subwoofer being used. Sometimes people get lucky and it turns out that the system sounds good.
Just going to level control for your sub amp gain then you can slightly turn it down when you get sick of the bass but still be able to turn it up when you pass the ladies
To get Superior Sound you need to Dynamat your car and then put a bandpass box in your trunk fixing forward. That's only if you want the best quality though. Facing it toward your trunk will give you more thud and maintain some of the quality from the band pass. I've seen some of your more recent videos and can tell you are getting better at your car modifications. I wish you the best of luck.
I've heard a few ban passes and they've all sounded like shit... I've listened to both 4th and 6th order, my favorite was the 6th order, but still shit. I used a JLW10 at 800w. So I know it was not a bad subwoofer or amplifier
I depends on what you're looking for. I think it kind of funny how some people try to port a 8 inch subwoofer and expect thundering gusty bass. Not going to happen.😂😂 If you want true quality low frequencies 10 or 12 inch subs are you best bet. If you love hip hop and rap go with two 15 inch or 18 inch subwoofers to move more air. To see pressure waves move through your car is pretty cool.
you can fix the rattle with taking dwon the rear view mirror or like press a screvdrvier on to to the top of the headliner and then down to the mirror and sound deaden the trunk
why take dwon the rear view mirror press a scroevdrvyier on to the headliner and then doon to the mirror wtf i dunt evn know what or why anyone would doo such a thing sounds gettow sound deadener is good idea BTW.... Spelling, Grammar, Capital Letters and Punctuation makes a good idea, much easier for most people to understand. I actually LIKE seeing my Mirror shaking like MAD, when my Trio of JL Audio 10" Subs, are hitting hard on the perfect Song! And, do WHAT with a Screwdriver? 😱
