Subwoofer Setup & Optimization - MartinLogan 

Please please please help me set up my Bose Acoustimass!!

You must mean eigentones

on my subwoofer only 2 inputs L/R. and it says if I want to connect LFE use left (white input) so what to do if I want both?

+Sigitas Ziurys it's a tannoy subwoofer sfx 5,1

+Sigitas Ziurys got it! there is some more speaker level inputs, didn't notice them

Johnny Blaze a Crutchfield rep told me about the crawl method....but it is useless if you run a calibration tool that dials in the sound based on subwoofer placements

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That is because that sub is not very good for music. With all subs placement, crossover setting and gain settings are critical. The better subs are so much easier to dial in. I would recommend running the Martin Logan speakers full range and adjust subwoofer starting with a low crossover of 50 or less and with a low volume setting and gradually increase volume a little at a time.

Janne Korpela check trim level on your amplifier go to test tone and see if you can adjust,I suffered same kind of thing on DENON x4200 worked fine for movies but for music no good the trim level was -11db hence no bass for music. hope this helped if you still have your amp or anyone else having this kind of problem try it

You've probably already solved this issue from two years ago, but I would start by getting rid of the Sony receiver and never consider owning another a or v device of that brand, unless you're ready to make a marriage-status commitment to Sony and do promise to have and to hold only Sony other components in your system until death do you part while the nature of the infinitesimal corporate beast lives indefinitely. Not because I dislike their products, but Sony has for awhile already been like Apple is now- monopolistic greed mongers whom just do not play well with others. Their unspoken exclusivity is just not a realistic approach to the world of audio and video. Most people have systems consisting of Kenwood this, with an Onkyo that. I personally don't like feeling limited to a brand when I'm adding to a system. Universality is paramount between devices and if all brands veer in the direction of Apple or Sony, (not to throw stones) just as examples, well what a controlled and contrived, disgustingly programmed society of robots this nation would be. Yuck. The U.S. were formed because the people wanted their own choices in life. Don't let "them" chip away at our freedom right under our noses with small things like this because if we fail to notice and ignore, the de-evolution of our society as the beast gradually but eventually finds its way into having control over bigger things over us, then it very well could be that one day when it's too late you realize you are affected when you get locked out of your own home in an emergency and are unable to get in.

L

You have it right. Leave it alone.

If you have a phase adjustment in the sub and receiver than its just an extra redundant control. Only make your changes to one control. Either leave the receiver at one setting and only change the setting on sub and listen to your preference or vise versa. Not both.

Actually, you still only have two real phase settings. 0 and 0 is the same as 180 and 180, and 0 and 180 is the same as 180 and 0.

I think the pertinent question we need to address first is: why we have "phase" in the first place? Then we can proceed to: which setting is best and when? Phase is basically the direction of the signal/speaker driver/cone movement, which has two categories: "in-phase": This is when your main speaker-drivers move forward/backwards at the same time as your subwoofer (setting is: 0 because this is the original position, without any subwoofer rotation). This is recommended if the sub/s is placed on the same side of the room as your main speakers, where there is no possibility of soundwave "collision" which can produce unexpected results in sound quality. Then there's: "out of phase": This is when the main speaker-drivers move in opposite direction to that of the subwoofer, that is; when the main speaker drivers move forward, the subwoofer driver moves backwards (setting is: 180, because you've rotated your subwoofer 180° to face your front mains) so as to avoid the soundwave "collision". This is mostly recommended in cases where the subwoofer is placed on the opposite end of the room, and is facing the main speakers. I've got my Receiver on one setting and I'd just toggle my phase-switch if I need to change phase, because the phase input on the Receiver basically tells the Receiver which direction the subwoofer is facing, which can be adjusted on the sub itself. My sub is set at 0 even though it's placed 90° to my mains because my sub can only do 0 or 180°, there's no in-between settings, and it's also due to lack of space😀

plenty of people who buy stereo amps for music still do this

Will you mind sharing the video with us??

Way to go Eli....

@Eli I'm saying nothing! Lol

🙌🏻

🤔😄😄😄

Keep away from corners. I find the best results next to my main speakers. The sub does need to be against a wall. This gives it 2 reinforced boundaries wall and floor but in the corner you have 3 boundaries reinforcing the sound giving you more output but at the expense of Accuracy Speed Agility Timing.

This depends on the speakers used and music listened. Most music has mono bass in the low end to keep other frequencies in their place. You dont want unnecessary competition for space in your mix as a mixer/master. I suspect it is more about the standing wave issue and better distribution of bass in your room.

if bass gets pulled to one side or the other with a single subwoofer, that means it's not set up right at all. It's either got bad room placement, the output level is far too high, or the crossover frequency is too high. Watch the video again and follow the instructions on proper subwoofer setup, and it will not pull the bass towards the sub.