I love CA, I've been in San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara. The weather reminds me of the days in the Caribbean. I grew up eating the real deal mangoes: champagne and a yellow variety of the Kent. It's one of my favorite fruits. Hope your channel grows as much as the car repair channels. One is 9.6 million subs. By now, I am a self-taught youtube data analyst, I see where people look for on RU-vid. 🙏 4 🇺🇸
Thank you. I don’t know it if you been to any cities in the Central Valle, but our climate is vastly different than the coastal cities you mentioned. That said, luckily for us Central Valley folks, our summers are prime mango growing seasons; I can’t say the same for the coastal as they don’t get the heat that mango trees love/need.
I live in Fresno, and watch your videos all the time (so helpful). I searched and called every nursery in the area, and no one has a mango tree. I finally ordered from a nursery in FL, and received my buttercream and fruit punch mango trees today! I ordered a bag of the tiger organic sulfur, and also a bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer with iron and micronutrients that was recommended in the site I bought my trees from. Would you recommend that? I saw in this video you use peat moss and sand. Do you buy your sand? What ratios would you recommend? I watched a different video of a business here in Fresno, where the the owner planted two mango trees against a large white brick wall, and they got massive! It seems like the heat from the wall in the summer was something the trees really loved. I have a white brick wall in my backyard, so was thinking to plant them with the wall in the background, to see if I can achieve the same effect.
Thank you and welcome to the channel. Specific to your fertilizer question, what you have is a good start. Assuming you want to put your mango trees in the ground, the ration I use has been 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 sand and 1/3 native dirt. The “play” sand and peat moss can be punched from your local Lowe’s or Home Depot. In about 25-50 years time, yes, the mango tree can grow to be quite big as they do love our sun, after the tree is established. If growing from a graft tree, which yours very likely are, I don’t expect they’ll be that big. By planting the trees next to your wall, this may actually serve to protect them from the winter, though, you may want to protect them from the intense summer sun for the first or second years. Good luck.
I just planted a manila mango in my back fence last week. I got it at home Depot last year and it was about 2.5 ft tall. I overwintered it inside at night and put it outside during the day but it got sick and started dropping all it's leaves. Then it looked like it was coming back but the leaves looked smaller and wilted. I then realized the stem had completely died back leaving it about a foot tall. I pruned the dead stem part off . I just went ahead and planted it. It didn't have many roots so it was easy to plant. It hasn't wilted so far but I might have to replant it on a bigger mound. I also have a grafted 4ft tall Palmer mango. My only worry is backyard is colder than my front yard. The spot where i planted my mango is 8-10 degrees colder than the front which doesn't make sense since the back fence line is higher and slopes down towards the house. I have my manila mango, star fruit and a Stellar ruby magnolia lining the back fence. i wanted my evergreens there as a privacy screen. Hopefully they can handle our winters there since it's colder and heavily shaded until after 1p.
I’m sorry to hear about your Manila mango, however, the Manila variety is surprisingly hardy. There’s a 2 foot tall Manila mango tree that I keep seeing by my parent’s house. For the past 2 years it’s been very sad looking, no new growth, but it still hasn’t died (yet). Even if the tree doesn’t look like it’s doing much, it may be simply trying to establish its root system. I’d keep doing what you’re doing and keep an eye on your watering practice as well as NOT fertilizing it too much, particularly with nitrogen as they actually do not like too much nitrogen.
I agree that planting trees close to each other really isn't an issue for the roots. As yards get smaller and smaller dense planting is becoming the only option for people who want variety.
You hit disya video out of the park ⚾️⚾️⚾️⚾️⚾️ . Ive had most of my mango seeds i start in wet paper towels in a ziploc bags turn black ? They still sprout but I am concerned about the black mold ?
Thank you. That’s interesting about most of your seeds turning black. I too have had a few of my seeds eventually turning black when in the ziplock bag. I simply attributed my case to the mango fruit having gone through “hot water” treatment process when being imported.
May I buy some mangoes from you? 2 of each? Or even the seeds or stem? I recently bought my home a year ago in the valley as well and am all about mangoes and tropical fruit! I'm half Filipino and have a lot of Chinese and other asian blood that just enjoys these fruits!
That’s wonderful. Unfortunately, I do not sell any of my tropical fruit trees, including fruits, seeds, cuttings, etc. It may be worth a day’s trip to the Los Angeles region. There’s actually a good number of tropical fruit tree nurseries in the area. Here’s some videos I did touring some of them: Champa Nursery - Spring 2022 Tour ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o1-Adgg5DKQ.html Emily Garden Nursery - Spring 2022 Tour ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gn1JDiz-riA.html Mimosa Nursery - Spring 2022 Tour ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YfOMOSsuGIo.html
You were talking about flowers wilting . Have a east Indy mango I grew from seed it’s still small about 12inches or so. It’s been doing ok the past year. So two weeks ago I gave it worm casting , why did I do that it definitely didn’t like that ,all the leaves have wilted but haven’t fallen off. I don’t know if I should repot it or leave it and see if it recovers in its own . So fare I think it’s still alive but leaves are still greenish just wilted.
It’s hard to say, as your seedling had been doing been good to date. I don’t see the worm casting as being the culprit as they’re generally extremely safe as a fertilizer. I would continue to check the soil to ensure it’s not too dry or too wet. It may help to shade the seedling during this time. Good luck.
I personally do not apply gypsum to my soil and instead, rely on the organisms and microorganisms to loosen and create a healthy environment for my soil life. Although it’s all a balancing act, some of the downsides of gypsum is that it may interfere with other nutrients such as lowering the potassium and magnesium availability. That said, I know people have found excellent results with its use.
I have not. The Yellow Malayan coconut variety is purported to be extremely cold hardy. Specific to my reason, I do not grow it as the coconuts can be easily purchased for cheap.
Although some of my more mature mango trees suffered frost damage to the outer leaves, I know they’ll regrow. It’s a very slight setback. Ironically none of my in ground mango seedlings suffered any frost damage. It certainly helps that I have nearby trees providing some frost protection.
Hi, I am following your videos and learning a lot about mango trees. I have a tree from seedling now 5+years and flowered this spring in San Diego, but it is in a pot. I need to transplant it into the soil. Do you suggest can be done this time or should wait till fall. dormant season? Many thanks
In your region, you can plant it in the ground just about any months of the year. That said, if you are hoping to get mango fruits this year, I would wait until you pick the last fruit before putting it in the ground. If fruit production is not an issue, I would put it in the ground now, and remove all of the flowers. If putting it in the ground, try to do it in the evening, when it’s cooler. This stresses the tree less. Good luck.
On the mango seed that you planted I could not tell if you planted the sprouted part up or down in the potted soil..was that sprout the root or the plant?
That’s awesome. Regardless of the germination method, as long as the seedling makes it, all should be good. I just find the paper towel method to be a bit more forgiving, particularly the lack of having to hassle with ensuring the container is moist, warm, etc.
@@TropicalCentralValley Yup, it is funner to see the roots grow out in water in a clear cup! I have been growing some sweet tart seedlings in a grow tent with grow lights. The lights in the tent heat up pretty good. It can get to 90degrees inside if the outdoor temps gets to 70degrees and sunny. My seedlings had put out growth all winter in the tent.
What about mixing the soil with coco peat for better drainage and aeration? Some recommend vermicompost while planting a new tree . Let me know your thoughts on that.
I actually do use coco peat on some of my non-tropical fruit trees. If soil pH is not an issue in your climate, the use of coco peat is a great alternative. Worm castings and other compost style organic products should be used as dressing and never mixed into the soil. That said, it’s not to say you won’t find success, however, in my case, I’m in it for the long term with my trees. The sad truth is, when you mix in organic products into the soil, the tree may decline in health within 5-10 years.
Coco peat, regular peat. It's all organic in nature. So eventually it'll compost and do the exact same as other organic matter. Let the soil life do it's thing and let it be mulch.
It’s hard to say, as it depends on the flower pollination. Regardless, it can be slightly “worse” or magnitudes better than the original fruit. That said, any mango grown on your very own tree will tastes much better than any fruits bought from stores as you’ll likely let the fruit ripen on the tree, instead of being picked weeks or months prior to ripe.
@@TropicalCentralValley Thanks. I live in Auckland, New Zealand. In winter, the lowest temperatures are occasionally around 4 to 5 degrees Celsius in the morning and evening, and mostly around 7 to 8 degrees Celsius. During the day, it ranges from 10 to 16 degrees Celsius. In summer, the highest temperatures are around 27 degrees, occasionally reaching 30 degrees. There is a lot of rain in winter, while summer is relatively dry. Do you have any suggestions for growing mangoes in this climate?
They will thrive in your climate. For reference, mine is around -3°C several time of the winter, and at times, hitting 46°C in the summer, with practically no humidity.
@@TropicalCentralValley Are mango tree growth and fruiting only affected by low temperatures, or do they also have requirements for high temperatures? I'm somewhat concerned that Auckland's summer might not be hot enough. I see that the majority of mango-producing regions in the world are much hotter than Auckland.
Low temperature (around 7°C) induces flower production on mango trees. Beyond that, they’re not a fan of cold temperature. Your climate is virtually identical to Southern California, specifically the Los Angeles region and mango trees thrive in the area. That said, mango trees can definitely also take the heat.
Great information. Thank you! I have sprouted a couple of sapote seeds 2 years ago and they are doing very well. I heard that the fruit will be unlikely true to seed. Any thoughts?
It really depends on the sapote varieties, but the majority are not true to seed, which personally is not a disadvantage. I don’t think I have ever tasted a bad ripen sapote fruit before.
It’s a long story, but my inspiration came from watching someone on RU-vid back in the days attempting to grow an Orange tree in the ground, in a northern state that receives snow. After putting in my first atemoya in the ground and seeing the tree was still alive, I then began exploring other tropical fruit trees. That was 6-7 years ago.
After wrapping it in a damp paper towel and into a ziplock bag, I simple place it on top of my kitchen counter, under normal room temperature. The trick is to ensure it remains warmer, for instance, I would not leave the ziplock bag sitting outside and exposed to the cold.
Thanks a lot for your work ! Watching from south east of France near the meditereanan coast and having lots of hope for my army of Spanish grafted mangoes on Gomera 3 Rootstocks( Irwin, Sensation 2, Ataulfo, Osteen, Keitt and Gomera 3 ungrafted) I’ll soon plant in the ground some of them ( Sensation 2 and Osteen ). Translated peat moss into French is a bit hard. We have black, brown and White peat here. Each having different Ph. What is the ph of the one you use and other of its properties to let me identify it and use the right one Cheers
That’s awesome. Mango trees are quite distinctive and when they produce fruits, everyone knows what a mango is. Specific to my use of peat moss, I use sphagnum peat moss which comes from the Canadian bog lands. The sphagnum peat moss has a pH of 3.0 - 4.0.
Do you think you will stay in the subdivision now that the tropical tree bug bit you? You could get a very nice older home and an acre or two in the valley.
Welp I’ve had my Manila mango for about two years I was excited when it started flowering two months ago but it only gave me flowers no fruit this year :( maybe next year will get to taste them.
That’s wonderful. The tree will know when it thinks it can support fruit production. In bad years, the tree may forgo fruit production and instead just focus on staying alive.
So I actually do not have any nectarine trees. The only stone fruit tree I have is a Golden Sweet apricot. That said, regardless of the variety, all stone fruit trees do extremely well in the Central Valley and do not require anything close to the growing requirements of tropical fruit trees.
Hello, watching you from france, what kind of tropical tree I can plant near my house foundation ? I will have sapote, jaboticaba, longan , annona, banana , malay apple or rose apple. And Also please can you tell me wich tree can take full sun and which needshade Help me pleaseeeeeee
Hello there. Specific to your question, all of the tropical fruit trees you listed may be planted next to your house, as their roots are not invasive. Additionally, the trees are small to medium size when mature. The sapote and jaboticaba are relatively slow growers, where the others grow at a medium to fast rate. The trees you DO NOT want near your foundation are super fast growers such as mulberry, Inga, Moringa, etc.) as well as being overall large trees. Concerning sun exposure, bear in mind, my climate is vastly different than yours where our sun is a bit too intense due to our lack of humidity, however, from experience, I would provide the sapote tree, if young, with some afternoon shade until it matures into its 2nd or 3 year. Then again, if your climate has relatively good humidity, shade protection isn’t really an issue.
@@TropicalCentralValley thank you for your response you really helped me ! I'm leaving in the Méditerranée coast City of Marseille , wich is very dry in summer and can be windy! With wet winter. I will concidere your advice thank you !
Not my personal favorite. I find the Alphonso to be a bit too sweet, but if that’s what people want, then the Alphonso is it. Personally, I prefer the Keo Savoy as it is extremely aromatic, crunchy and sweet.
Peat moss use has negative impacts on the environment and destroys the ecosystems they are harvested from. There are other moss alternatives that are sustainably grown and harvested - like sphagnum moss. Also, there's the free mulch and compost the city gives back to their residents. I use the red wood mulch and compost the city recycles and perlite to amend our native LA soil. With a lot of trees falling during the rainy season, the city has had A LOT of options and grades of mulch and compost to give out.
Although I agree with your sentiment, I feel there are many, many other more pressing causes to our environment, including oil, if you drive, use lotion, use plastic, etc. This is one of life’s evil and is up all individuals to make the determination for themselves. I recently made a video which talked of the sustainability factor of peat moss and their bog wetlands, so, I am familiar with the topic. That said, I feel it will be way more environmentally costly if someone uses alternatives growing medium then adding elemental sulfur afterwards just to accomplish the same desired effects of pest moss.
