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Have you ever wondered how some people can wear a suit when it's stifling hot outside? Well, not all suits are created equal and some have a lot more airflow and a lot cooler than others. Why is that? You may wonder. Actually, there are a number of factors. Most importantly, there's the fabric and the interlining.
SUMMER FABRICS
1. Seersucker. It's an all-time American classic and it usually comes in a stripe of white and blue. It's a very fine stripe and it's very popular in the southern United States and it's made from a twisted yarn. It's a very fine highly twisted cotton yarn that creates a puckering effect in the cloth. In a nutshell, that crinkle effect is achieved by tightening certain warped yarns more than others. The crinkle is permanent and can't be ironed out but as a consequence, it doesn't wrinkle otherwise, so it's very wrinkle resistant which makes it also a great travel suit.
2. Fresco. It's a term coined by Minnis which is a British Weaver and they have them in their lineup. They have many different colors typically summer colors in lighter weights and heavier weights. At first, it may seem contradictory that wool can be an ideal fabric for summer but in fact, if the weave is right and with a fresco, you get a weave that's also a higher twisted yarn which means it doesn't wrinkle very easily. Wool doesn't wrinkle easily to begin with but it also has a very open weave, because of that, you usually find it in strong colors, not just solids but mottled colors because they help camouflage the fact that it's a very open weave.
3. Linen. It is derived from the flax plant and it can be made stiffer or softer. Typically, Irish linen is a little stiffer whereas Italian linen is rather soft. It naturally has a very long staple that is much longer than cotton rather natural fibers and because of that, it's very resistant to abrasion. It also has extremely heavier wrinkles, and they create a very sophisticated unique look.
4. Cotton. Most of the time, it comes in lighter colors for summer such as khaki. Unfortunately, it often comes in very tight weaves just as twill or gabardine which doesn't make it very breathable. It also wrinkles very easily but unlike linen, it just looks non-ironed whereas linen wrinkles look sophisticated. Because of that, I think cotton alone is best blended with linen or silk.
5. Tropical. The tropical is softer than a fresco but the weave is not as open. At the same time, it's very lightweight and it's specifically designed for warm weather. Sometimes you can also find it with the addition of mohair which is a little crisper, it adds more wrinkle resistance, it also adds a tiny bit of shine but at the same time, it feels cooler when you wear it.
So choosing the right material for a summer suit is only one part of the equation. You always want to choose the right style and the right color. Because it's the summer and everything is lighter, you can have brighter colors and get away with a green suit that otherwise you couldn't wear in the winter. Of course, you can also go with patterns but instead of a Glen check in black and white, you maybe go with something in gray and white which just makes everything more lively and summery. If you want the ultimate summer suit, go with a single-breasted silhouette never double breasted because the dual layers of fabrics will make you wear much warmer. Stylistically, some people prefer patch pockets because they're more casual but keep in mind, it's an extra layer of fabric which is why having jetted or flap pockets is just fine.
1 окт 2024
