Wool Suit Fabrics Explained 

Thanks for sharing, I know what you mean. Come summer, many people hear 'wool' and they think its hot and too warm-wearing compared to a linen or cotton. However, a 250g high twist wool will be VERY comfortable, breathable and you get the clean crisp look that wool gives you.

I agree, wool trousers always, drape much better

Thank you! The video just went out, so hopefully over some time we will get the views it deserves.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you like the videos and I know what you are talking about with some of those shouting youtubers that talk too quickly. I much prefer speaking like I'm having a conversation rather than yelling at you guys!

I really prefer the conversational-style. Looking forward to more of your videos! @@Justin_Kwan

Glad it was helpful! If you are in the market for something, I'd be happy to help answer more questions directly, just shoot me a mail here if interested to set up a call: www.principlem.com/contact

I'm glad you like it, thank you for sharing. Although I'm based in Beijing, I'd also be happy to explore some custom suit options over a a call with you if you are ever interested. We do serve international customers all over.

@@Justin_Kwan It's definitely something I would consider! Thank you Justin

@@thomaskittock2866 when you are ready to set up a call, please contact me here: www.principlem.com/contact (i'd leave my email but I'm trying to avoid internet spammers)

Thanks, more to come! I'm originally from the US, after graduating from University I move to Beijing to explore the clothing industry & tailoring as well as learn some Chinese and eventually started my brand Principle M. That was over 15 years ago...time flies!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you for the feedback and for subscribing!

Welcome aboard!

Cool. If you have any specific questions, ask here. I answer all questions and others might find the Q&A useful

very nice! Definitely one of my top recommendations for easy, everyday wear in warm weather.

Hi, that's a good question. In my experience, a high twist wool that is lined is more breathable than a twill wool of the same weight that is lined. But of course, unlined will be even more breathable. When I make a suit specifically for summer using high twist wools, I always opt for unlined or half lined in the jacket and no lining in my trousers. For a work horse summer suit in high twist, you can't go wrong with navy if you are in a conservative work environment. Another color I love for summer is a wheat, sand or grey-beige color. This is nice because you can also break up the suit and wear them as separates. Pro tip to keep in mind: since high twist has an open weave (almost like a window screen) it could be a bit see-through. This isn't a big problem since the front of the jacket is lined with canvas and there is the double layer of fabric with the facing/lapels, so you wont see your shirt pattern through the front. However, it's important in the sleeves and back. I usually choose a sleeve lining that matches the color of the suit fabric rather than a contrasting or striped lining. In the back, I'm less concerned since I'm usually facing people and they wont be distracted by the subtle pattern of the shirt occasionally showing through. But, if this is something that might bother you, you should consider full lining. I could go on and on about this..... I hope it's helpful! If you are interested in going deeper in this discussion on a call and have any interest in the custom clothing we offer, I'd be happy to set up a call. Just contact me on my website and we can set up a time: www.principlem.com/contact

Normally I'd suggest a high twist wool at around 250-280g. However, if you are normally indoors and rarely outdoors (for example, working and living in Central) then a 280g worsted might serve you better. Based on my experience there, the air conditioning is very strong, and believe it or not, a high twist can be a bit too breathable and the cold AC in the summer might might bother you. A worsted will offer a bit better insulation. So, ask yourself if you find yourself cold indoors more often than not? (then go with worsted 280g) or are you always hot? (then go with a high twist wool 250-280g.

Sounds fabulous!

Glad you think so!

One of my favorite options for summer tuxedos is a wool & mohair blend. A light summer weight of 250g will have a beautiful drape due to the natural spring and crisp hand of mohair. One of the biggest selling points about mohair; it has a natural and beautiful sheen. Here is a link to some pictures of the one we carry. If you have more questions, let me know, I'm here to help! www.principlem.com/shop-all/p/guabello-black-mohair-blend-tuxedo-jacket

Definitely don't try to find a close match to make a suit, that will never work out. Instead, let's look at the bright side and be constructive. Matching your dark jacket in anthracite, can look very chic with cream, off-white or white trousers. Wear some black knitwear inside--a polo, knit tee or turtleneck would all work. I'd wear that with black loafers in calf skin or even some black suede Belgian loafers would do. Or, another monochromatic way to wear it would be with a light grey trouser and a white shirt. Start with these two looks, then experiment with other ways to wear it and get that jacket into rotation!

@@Justin_Kwan This is such clever advice! I'll make it my mission to wear it more often! Thank you very much for the answer.

@@aaronvelazquez5599 Your welcome

A lot of the information I share, such as in this video this, is relevant to both men's and women's tailoring. Wool-silk blends make for fantastic fabrics, from the hand, drape and luster, but they are quite luxurious and can be expensive. My only advice is if you are visiting a new tailor for the first time, it might be wise to first make something more entry level price to get a taste of the tailors work and cut before splurging for something more luxurious.

@@Justin_KwanThanks for the advice. In my case, I want to make the suit myself, using a vintage pattern from 1960. The pattern is unusual, but not complex. I'll do plenty of research, and make a toile first... the silk wool I have in mind is $70 per yard, so I intend to be careful. I appreciate any further advice you might give.

Sounds like it will be amazing. A pattern from 1960 and in a wool/silk blend. Please share pics of the work if you can! Going with a toile first will also minimize risks.

@@Justin_KwanWhere to send pics? It will be a while... I have a few other projects first.

If you use instagram send to me at "kwanton" or email to justin@principlem.com -- thanks!

Hi, I think a nice 160's would be a lovely and luxurious suit to celebrate an event like your engagement. I wouldn't say it's much harder to maintain than a 130's, it will be important that it fits and drapes nice. If it's at all tight or doesn't fit, those imperfections will show more than on a 130's. So it will be good to try it on first if it's RTW, or if tailor made, it will be important that you do it with a tailor you've made suits with before so there are no surprises. Best of luck and congratulations on your engagement!

@@Justin_Kwan thank for the reply Justin, would you recommend any do's and don'ts in a 160s maintenance?

I'm sure you find it rewarding!

Good question. Check out this video I made that covers the main 3 types of suiting fabrics and what they are made from: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ql42vZB5v4k.html