Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for your video. I have this mixmaster and it was complaining. I must have watched your video 100 times, but, step by step, I disassembled my machine based upon your guidance. At the gear box, I noticed you were using Lucas Oil"s #2 red wheel bearing grease rated at 525 degrees. I used a different brand, but it was #2 red rated at 500 degrees. I assumed that this grease was good enough. Of course, I put too much grease in the gear box and it oozed out while tightening the hold down screws. But I tightened the screws slowly and wiped up the excess as I went along. Because this was my 1st time and I was scared to death, I took about three days to get the job done. But I DID complete the job! Thanks again.
I just found your video today while searching to find what model mine is. Turns out it's a 1-8B and brown and heavy chrome design. I thought it was from the 50s accordingly to my neighbor who sold it to me. Turns out it's early 70s. All my parts are there and it works like a dream! Loved this video!
I was so pleased to see this video. I have one of these and was wondering how to go about servicing it. I think they're great machines. Thank you for posting this, I found it fascinating.
Great Video ! I love the Crombe look !! I sure it was bragged about , an Displayed Proudly on the counter !! Thanks for the Video. I get to mine Very Soon Now !! 👍
Would you happen to have the service manual for this mixer? I have finally received my replacement resistor in the mail and have realized I have a few extra tiny washers from the armature after my last disassembly since I didn't properly document everything. I'm specifically looking for the exploded view of the mixer so I can prevent some rubbing that's happening inside the assembly when it's all put together. Thanks for any and all pointers, we all really appreciate what you're doing to keep these wonders of bygone years running!
Hi Arthur, I am sorry I do not. It seems it is easier to find service manuals for the older versions than these. I think the washers go on the front portion of the armature, trying to use my memory here which is not what it used to be lol. Anytime I find washers on the armature for any model, I try to leave them in place, some have multiple washers of different materials stacked together, and I dont wat to have to try to remember the order they go if I mix them up.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Thanks I appreciate it. I'll do some digging around online and inside my mixer to try and find where these mystery washers go. Then maybe I'll remember to take a reference photo or write this stuff down. Best Regards.
I had no idea that these mixers were put together this way. I assumed that they had plastic gears and such inside. I was surprised to see that level of construction in these things!
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 I just took ours apart to clean and service and I don't see any wicks where the bushings sit. Do you know if they omitted them in some machines and just used grease? All I see are empty holes where the bushings go. I did see what looked like grease on both of them. What would I use for wicks? Also, one of the retaining caps that hold the gears in place either didn't have a round felt under it or it went flying and I lost it. I wonder where I can find some felt like that? Any help would be appreciated....
I have seen one also that was missing the felt wicks in the holes, I am pretty sure it wasn't intentionally left out, probably skipped over on the assembly line. I bought a piece of felt and just made my own wicks. You could do the same with the one under the retainer cap your missing, that one is only there to catch any oil that may run out.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Thanks... I'm gonna call a sewing machine repair shop here today and see if they have any 1/4 " wicks otherwise I'll try to find some wool felt. Some sewing machines take felts. Also, do you know how the fan comes off so that I can take the rear bushing off? I'd like to clean it up and try that frozen bushing in hot oil trick and see if it works!
I think it is pressed on, and may do more damage trying to remove it than can be repaired. I have never tried to remove one, so you would have to take a really close look to verify if it is pressed on, or staked on, or fastened some other way. Good luck, let me know if you get it off!
I am always thankful to the people who post such helpful videos! I have a 1-8AT that was getting quite wobbly in the front end beater assembly. Using your video, I felt confident to take that all apart and have tightened everything up nicely but now I physically cannot get it to lock at the top. If I assemble it in the locked position, I can unlock it with a quick smack but I can't relock it afterward. I now remember this being a problem long ago which 'fixed' itself as the front end loosened up. Any suggestions?
Hi! Are you referring to the handle, when you turn it to eject the beaters? If so, there may be a misalignment between the part under the handle and the pin that engages it, which is attached to a spring. If you turn the handle assembly, you will see the pin at the top, check that it will move up and down, if its sticking, then you can investigate further. Also check where it engages under the handle, make sure it is not bent or that there is nothing stuck there to get in the way.
Thanks for the video. Quick question, is there a reason you're using Red N Tacky? I know the original grease standards weren't as strict as today, but wouldn't it be best to use an H1 food grade lube? At least H2 by minimum. Something like super lube 21030 because the motor is still sealed without a proper gasket, maybe?
Hi Topher, thanks for the question! That is a topic I covered in a couple videos. I do use food grade grease if it is requested, but the problem I have with it is that it breaks down and will start to leak out, in which case it is good that its food grade. Even more modern kitchenaids have that issue where the oil will separate from the solids in the grease, and leak out and stain the paint, and make a mess. The red grease does not separate out, and will stay in the gearbox where it belongs. Also it will keep its consistency if the machine is stored for a long time, as many of these are, some of them will probably never be used other than for show, others only once in a great while.
Ah thanks for the quick reply. I tore apart this same model just now, stripped it down, replaced the capacitor at the switch and was left wondering what to do for the grease. Thus found your video and thought I'd ask before I ran out and bought super lube or FM 222. I guess red n tacky is better than what was originally used, and that was perfectly fine. So I'll just stick with what's good. Also, long live the revolution my friend. RP 4 life. Unless you just liked that design and it was coincidental, then pardon me. :)
Ahh thanks! No, I got this tattoo definitely because of the RP revolution! You are the first viewer to recognize it! I love the idea behind it, it is how I live my life :) I have had no issues with that grease, I use it in all of my machines here at the house. It is personal preference, I know some do prefer the food safe, but to each their own, as long as it is lubricated. If you have the same model, don't forget to soak the oil wicks under the bushings! Good luck!! :)
Ours will run on high speeds but not too well on low speeds. I'm guessing it needs service, but is there any way to lube it without taking it all apart? Doesn't look like it from your video. 🤔 Also, the handle feels a little loose.. any way to just tighten it up a little?
Great video! I have the same model, and the resistor in mine is crumbling down in one corner--what does this mean for usability? I thought it was working fine, just opened it for cleaning.
Thanks! Those resistors usually have a crumbling outer coating, but an still test just fine. They get extremely hot, and considering the age, I guess it is to be expected, but doesn't necessarily mean the resistor is bad.
I have the same mixer but a model 1-8 AT and it looks like the same capacitor in the little cardboard cover. My capacitor smoked and is too burnt to read the ratings and size. Can you tell me the specs or a part number. By the way the videos are very informative, Thanks.
Thanks Stan! Looking at one now, it looks like it says .05 + 80% (I assume this is uF) and looks like 25v -20%, not sure on that last part, some of it is wore away, ceramic disc capacitors. They are readily available online, you can get a higher voltage if you cant find 25. Full wording : MDC .05+80% 25v-20% 1KV Hope this helps!
My Wife recently bought one these yard sale, Me being the Tear it apart to clean it, the variable Speed doesn't seem to be variable any more, any way you can explain how the knob goes back together for proper timing. Watched rest of the video figured it out, that thin little rod fitted into spot back of speed control.
I have one almost the same after I clean it up I had one part left but I have no idea we’re it belong. It a very small and stiff S.S. wire about 1 inch long with The two ends turn up 90° in the same direction but only 1/4” long . If you have any idea what I mean sure would like to know were it go’s. Hate to throw it in 13.
I have a similar-looking mixer. It's a model 1-44B. (Or maybe 1-44BN? It looks like there's another faintly stamped character following the "B") I think it's a much newer unit: plastic top cover, plastic gearbox cover, no juicer PTO with a beater eject button in its place, permanent power cord... The beaters actually clash because the gears jumped time due to excessive wear. I looked online and couldn't find much in the way of replacement parts other than beaters and bowls. Am I SOL?
You will definitely find new gears for it, but you may be able to find a donor machine for parts on ebay. Im not sure if the MMA, MMB, 1-8b gears will work or not, as I am not very familiar with your model. You could ask in the facebook group "vintage mixer and small appliance network", there are some very knowledgeable folks in there.
Thanks for the vid, i just bought one very similar if not the same as the one you fixed. It kind of smell like burning plastic when I turned it on, i am @ the up state ny area, can you recommend where I should take it to be serviced?
Hmm, I have the same mixer the 1-8B and when I powered her up she heated up a lot. Like badly, do you think the fan is busted in mine or does it need new grease? It is quite old. It smelled like something was burning as well.
I bet it needs a good cleaning and lubrication. The oil wicks under the bushings are probably completely dried out, and the grease could probably use a change out to fresh. If there is a lot of drag on the motor from lack of lubrication, it would heat up, and if it is clogged with old flour, the air from the fan wont pass through the whole machine. Sometimes it is amazing what just cleaning and lubing them will do!
Replaced the grease and cleaned out the insides and lubricated the bushings, runs smooth. Grease smell is still there, but that's because it's grease. Still heats up but not as bad as before. Just gets warm now. But that's expected of motors when stressed with resistance... now to get that dough from climbing up the dough hook... really annoying.
@@Igmus if the dough hooks are installed correctly the rotation pushed the dough down into the bowl I knead bread dough with my mixer occasionally I often use mine to make Sally Lunn, brioche or Challah breads
I was wondering about relubricating bushings and how effective it is - Last year I took apart a portable heater whose fan motor had seized up and relubricated the bushing, but for some reason it didn't last very long and the motor started making noise and running slower again. So my question is, can bushings like that be successfully put back in service if they have seized up and the oil it contained probably gummed up clogging the bushing pores? What do you think if I were to dip these bushings in solvent for a few days to loosen up the gummed up oil and then soaking it in new oil for a few days before installing them back in? Or are dried up, gummed up bushings hopeless?
Yea I don't see why soaking them wouldn't work to clean out the deposits. These bushings , and on most mixers, seem to be completely dry, I have yet to see an issue with relubricating them. On this style mixer, it draws oil from the oil wick in the body, but that will eventually run dry. The older sunbeam style bushings had an oil hole in the body that is in line with a hole in the bushing, so an occasional drop of oil will go directly to the shaft. On my heater, the bushing for the fan had a thick felt wick that I soaked in oil and haven't had an issue with it yet. I do clean the bushings, and will polish the inside with some scotch brite, but that is all I have ever had to do to them so far. :)
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Not sure if you've heard of this or tried it before but I read where someone said to take the bushing (oillite) and put it in the freezer to get good and cold and then put them in hot oil and supposedly they soak up the oil like a sponge. Haven't tried it yet myself but it sounded interesting...
Hi Jeff! No I had not actually heard of that! I guess I can see that working, the cold would contract the pores, and if you warm it up they would expand, and in oil when they expand would draw oil in.. at least the theory sounds convincing :)
Hey Matthew! Once you have the parts removed, you can wash it out with soapy water, or wipe it out good with a damp rag if you are not completely disassembling it.
You can check here, these are the people I have found and verified as restorers and repairers. facebook.com/notes/vintage-mixers-and-more/other-vintage-appliance-restorers/2447370998621870/
