Super Simple Evaporust Clone for Pennies! - ElementalMaker 

Are you actually autistic? Me too.

thiourea and sulfamic acid? Two good suspects for the Evaporust secret recipe. Edit: /salute from another 'technically homeless' guy living at work. This economy sucks.

Youre not homeless! Homeless guys have nasty beards, youre just a pair of Adam's Family extra's & a disembodied voice - your "home" could just be a pair of gloves! 😉

can make a vid on brewing and distilling alcohol?

You remind me of mr wizard from the late 70s- late 80s

That's a great tip! Never thought to do that

and it's reusable. filter out particles and put back in to a clean container. keep used Evaporust separate from new Evap'st.

It's at 14 dislikes now

When I reverse engineer, I go STREIGHT for the SDS or MSDS! sometimes one gets lucky

@@davefellhoelter1343 No help in this case, unless you can tell me what "Trade Secret" is.

@@1978garfield I can't get my hands on any Evaorust to read the Haz or Active ingredients, but "I Have" OJT for Passivation in pharma, aero, electronics, and industrial. short of this my "go to" is Citric acid(vitimin C) @ about 180f after cleaning solvent of TSP at same temp for iron oxide rust removal.

@@davefellhoelter1343 vitamin C is ascorbic acid

Thanks for posting !

Could you share the recipe on that large concoction?

I de rusted body panels on my car by using Hydrochloric Acid, and ordinary sand (as the scrubber). Wearing safety gloves, I soaked a rag with hydrochloric acid, then dipped this in dry sand, and started to scrub away. This really worked for me, and then I rinsed with plain water, because the rusting is immediate. Then treated the scrubbed surface with a Phosporic Acid. Washed this off the next day, and primed the bodywork with paint. Obviously, you must not breathe the Hydrochloric Acid Fumes, so please wear the appropriate Mask.

When I evaporust, I take the part out a few times a day and brush it.

That is what I used to do too. But, the evaporust seems to keep the part from rusting after rinsing a little better - especially things like gas tanks. Also, some items I use zinc-chromate primer, and that keeps the metal from rerusting. @@peterduxbury927

Wow. Look at that. Lots of useful information here. Anyone try this? I need a lot for a gas tank.

methanesulfonic acid

Chelating agents like phosphonates (>5%), possibly NTMP, EDTMP and DTPMP, are mentioned in their compound list.

@@pappaflammyboi5799 That makes sense. It would occupy dissolved rust and keep it from doing much chemically. Those kind of things would be behind making the solution last over multiple uses.

Hey Buck, have a look at what I have just posted and let us know what you think. I found and downloaded a US Military spec. "Corrosion Removing Compound, Sodium Hydroxide Base; For Electrolytic Or Immersion Application" They state also "without causing material change in the dimensional characteristics of the treated article." Hydroxide conc. is pretty low.

Hahaha I was thinking the se thing!!!

NO thank god!!!! lol i love that channel but the speaking or lines or whatever u call the style he delivers he lines is soo distracting n hard to listen to, it would absolutely b one of my favorite channels if it wasnt for that, i guess it just seems kinda lazy with just reading off cards with no context its messes up the flow of the video n again is distracting. hell have cards or points written on stuff he wants to cover in the video but he reads them verbatim, like "evaporust is a great product. i use evaporust any chance i get. Evaporust wont damage the metal. Evaporust also hurt your skin and evaporust is non toxic" after a few times u can just say it!!!! lol that drives me so crazy i cant even watch the videos lol i write and its just lazy writing, u need to combine your thoughts at the end and let them flow without repetition or youll bore the reader

This is FrojectParm

I wasn't the only on thinking it, lol! I don't know what it is about that thumbnail/title combo that makes it look so ProjectFarm.

Evaporust at my local Advance Auto Parts is about $28 a gallon.

The *EXACT* moment he said EDTA, I immediately thought of Wesley Snipes saying that 😄

Dimercaprol and succimer both smell terrible. They might work, but your family might not be thrilled with you when you are using it.

@@AEON. - only the fancy beers... Just bought a 5 litre container for $A70, on special. $A425 for a 5kilo concentrated form that makes 30 litres (about 7.5 US gallons). Since Tetrasodium EDTA is about $25/kg, this is so much cheaper. Now to buy a small plunge pool and a crane...

Dear god, that's insane! I see a business opportunity. Start getting people to carry a couple liters in their checked luggage when they go to visit and we've got ourselves a nice little racket! Is that $100 in Australian monopoly money or American dollars?

Yeah $100 fuck that Vinegar or citric acid is cheap

Same in Canada

Interesting that EvapoRust smells sweet and you've found molasses capable of removing rust. Maybe adding a surfactant to your molasses solution would help speed it up a bit? I *think* (I could be wrong on this) that molasses also contains a bit of sulfur, too.

@@floorpizza8074Molasses create weak vinegar so nothing extra.

It destroys alloys and certain other metals. I use molasses and then after washing, dip it in phosphoric acid to give a protective coating until ready to paint.

@@lazyj4732 what destroys?

@@otofoto Molasses

Great to know, I had no idea

Neat. Thank you

He's not "adjusting the pH". This is called neutralization reaction. He's neutralizing the solution, Mr chemist.

yep and NaHCO3 is good, cheap and available every where, it keep the PH at aprox 7.5-8

@@suprememasteroftheuniverse "Adjusting the pH to a neutral value" is _literally the definition_ of what "neutralizing" means (in this context). Just because you chose to use different terms which mean exactly the same thing does not make anything I said actually wrong.

Cook a cornstarch + vinegar goo then apply like paint

@@mamupelu565 this works?

@@Joe-bm4wx Haven't found a english-speaking video but according to this one it works: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f2DUJl6cCqg.html (he said that vinegar + salt in electrolysis is much better, but it has to be in a ventilated area and the object has to be submerged)

@@mamupelu565 yeah salt gives off chlorine gas under electrolysis

Ya but I don't want to be smelling vinegar for any amount of time but ya he said in the description about$0.75 a gallon you are going to pay that for distilled water so get a container big enough and should be good

OUCH! Wow that's a steep price!

@@ElementalMaker Yeah I just bought 5 litres yesterday to experiment with, got price matched down a lot from the retail price but still absurdly marked up. The info in this video and in some of the comment chains is going to be a really useful money saver for a lot of people. I'd bet Australia isn't the only country that pays a premium.

Same in Germany. I'm making my own, too.

A sulphur based surfactant then.

@@bitTorrenter SLSA maybe? first thing that comes to mind from when I made soap back in the day

Perhaps the chelating agents such as the phosphonates NTMP, EDTMP and DTPMP? It is mentioned in their compounds list.

sodium petroleum sulfonate

Pure nature sells the Tetrasodium EDTA, price was reasonable & service was great :)

I was thinking the same. I willing to bet evapo rust contains un-sulfured molasses.

Doesn't smell nice would be the understatement of the year :-)

@@richardwindsor60 you ain’t wrong… it molds up nicely. I wonder if citric acid and edta cures that problem.

@@TheVTRainMan i bought some cheaper version of EvapoRust & that grew mould on it as well. It didn’t stink like the molasses though.

But when you're done you can just pour it out on the ground like the coca cola that I use!

if you are still interested: the european SDS of evaporust lists "Diammonium Phosphonatbuilder" and "Natriumpetroleumsulfonat" as the additional ingredients. No clue if it's the same mixture as overseas tho. See: kunden.tda.at/pumpkin/images/news/Sicherheitsdatenblatt_Evapo-Rust.pdf

Whats wrong with citric acid instead of sulfuric acid?

@@meocats it doesn't have sulfur.. The bond to iron must be better. But I'm no chemist

@@_mylastname "Sulfonat" sounds awfully like sulfur :)

@@ChriFux Translated from German to English it says: Composition / information on ingredients - Substances / mixtures: List of ingredients according to CLP (EC) Regulation No. 1272/2008 CAS component EC no: water 70-90%, diammonium phosphonate builder 2-12 %, Sodium Petroleum Sulfonate 3-10% Diammonium phosphate is one of a series of water-soluble ammonium phosphate salts that can be produced when ammonia reacts with phosphoric acid. Sodium Petroleum Sulphonate may be used at concentrations of 10% to 22% by weight in selected industrial and metalworking applications. Sodium sulfonates have had a long history of use in metalworking fluids. It function as emulsifiers and corrosion inhibitors.

Did your MSDS also said something about diammonium phosphonate?

Apparently sodium bisulfate is a strong acid used as a buffering agent. If you don't have a alkaline solution already, sodium bisulfate will make your solution very acidic. Do you know of a base used on evaporust to take the acid or vice/versa?

Metabisulfate doesn't exist, you are confusing with metabisulfite, used in homebrewing. Sodium bisulfite NaHSO3 only exists in solution (Na+ HSO3- aq.), it precipitates as sodium metabisulfite Na2S2O5. But that is unrelated to this process, which used sodium bisulfate NaHSO4, which does exist as a solid. It is basically partially neutralised sulfuric acid H2SO4, and still pretty damn acidic.

Thats interesting litres here in NZ 5 litres cost me NZD 50 at $10 a litre its cheaper than any other rust converter available. Including the CRC tantic acid based converter.

A few commenters noted that the German sds actually lists the full ingredients. Unfortunately I can't obtain the main one outside of buying in metric tons from China. Big fan of your channel! Thanks for dropping a comment!

@@ElementalMaker So, what is the "main one" that you cannot buy ... ??

@@ElementalMaker Can you guys steer us in the right direction?

So what is it then?

……we all “know for a fact” you’re not going to share your “knowledge”……pity.

Are you suggesting that more citric acid be added to get to 9pH?

@@wantmp3 Adding more citric acid would lower the pH *below* 6.5 (And in any case, evaporust is at 6.5, not in the 9-13 range.)

Great tip thank you!

and, afterward you can drink it. I hear it cures cancer, lol.

Oops, I think the MSDS actually said Sodium Bisulphite (NaHSO3)

@@jimmylastname5321 How in the world is this off-topic?!? More info is good. Calm down and top trying to play gatekeeper.

According to the government, cola Coke is not chemical.

@@theaussienurseflipper.8113 Everything is made of chemicals. Coke is a food product and as such must have all the ingredients (ie. chemicals) listed on the label and in some countries it will also need an MSDS. The label indicates that Coke contains Food Acid 338 which is phosphoric acid, very definitely considered a "chemical" by the government. Phosphoric acid (and to some extent the dissolved carbon dioxide) is what gives Coke it's slightly prickly (ie. acidic) feel. Phosphoric acid is a key ingredient in a number of commercial rust converter solutions and this is why people will say that Coke can be used to remove rust but it isn't very effective because the concentration is low.

@@emilebarrett1167 it's on the label, I don't believe safety data sheet for coke.

It's safe for your grass, but be careful around bushes: I spend way to much on chelated iron as a safe herbicide to take out various broadleaf weeds. Seems I should have been using citric acid/edta and junk parts the whole time!

I was wondering the same thing about temperature. I had a piece of aluminum that I had broken a steel tap off in while trying to tap a thread. I had read that soaking it in a solution of alum would dissolve the broken tap. Nothing much seemed to happen until I heated the solution and then it worked amazingly quickly.

When I use Evaporust, I definitely heat the solution (not too hot to touch) first and will continue to reheat it often. There is a dramatic difference between room temp (70-75°F) and warm solution. Warm/hot solution works much faster. Of course, this is true for most chemical reactions.

a little video about this process and effects won't hurt

I get 3 tests from each of my strips, I use tweezers to avoid getting it on me.

How did you find what they used?

@@jackgriffiths6366 I am a chemical engineer.

you could kinda tell it isn't because the title lacks "let's find out!" on it lol

You remove a lot more iron sanding them with citric acid and I'm not seeing anybody complaining.

It also doesn't require a hazmat charge for shipping, which also helps reduce shipping costs(if you need to have it shipped).

Here in Japan, a quart of Evapo-Rust is like >$200 USD!

Honestly, nearly every form of EDTA should work...

it is just EDTA plus sodium hydroxide. you should have lye

....EDTA is used in food industry , right ?

I'd rather just do the citric acid... Probably the same steps, you think?

I have tried many of these to remove rust over the last few decades including reverse electrolysis. Each has their pros and cons. Yes, Citric acid does a great job but as he stated... it WILL remove good metal too if you leave it in the solution too long. Just like vinegar. You really should neutralize the acid after (rinse or soak it with 1 cup baking soda to 1 gallon of water). Try citric acid or vinegar on a part you don't care about just to get an idea of what it might do if left too long. I accidentally left a part with a MIG welded joint in citric acid for over a week. The weld almost disappeared. It looked like a piece of wood that wood worms attacked. Way back when, racers would dip their car bodies in acids like vinegar or stronger to lighten them.

@@Joe.Doucette "I accidentally left a part with a MIG welded joint in citric acid for over a week. The weld almost disappeared. It looked like a piece of wood that wood worms attacked. " Yeah right. FOS.

@@teebosaurusyou FOS? Really? Well bless your little heart.

What's BS about that? If the weld wire was softer and more reactive it would become a sacrificial anode and get eaten up quickly.

What's the benefit of oxalic over citric?

@@kwaj177 Oxalic acid is superior to other acids for rust removal because it forms complexes with iron ions much better. The oxalic acid can pull the oxidized iron out of the rust and into solution where it can be washed away. Anyone who has seen a pale green color in the oxalic acid bath after soaking parts for a while has seen the iron-oxalate complex ([Fe(III)(C_2O_4)_3]^{3+}) in solution. Other chemicals will do this, including acetic and citric acids, but because of its structure oxalic acid is the optimal choice.

legal trade laws would have to come into play there right? because its a protected formula, once the computer realized what it was, would it just say its private? or would the problem just come in if u attempted to manufacture it?

@@4dirt2racer0 For it to be a protected formula, it would have to be patented, which would legally protect the inventor from others reproducing his solution, as invention takes time, effort, and often money, and we want to reward this investment and allow them to recoup their costs and make a little profit. But the patent is a guide on how to make it, so once that patent is up, anyone can legally sell a cheap knock off. That's why they didn't patent Dr Pepper or the Coca-Cola recipe. They are trade secrets instead. Which means anyone who has information on how it's made is under NDA, but there is nothing you can do to stop someone investing the time and effort into reverse engineering it, hence Pepsi-Cola and the other numerous knock offs. There's nothing to stop you breaking a patent at home, personally. It's intended to stop people commercially producing your product and taking a cut of your profits before you've recouped your investment. A lot of the equipment I mentioned works off a data base of "fingerprints" of materials. So it would give a list of potential matches with a percentage match to each. Something like pure ethanol would be easy to identify from boiling point and density, or maybe a gas chromatograph- mass spectrometer (GC-MS). That could also identify combinations of solvents. I used a GC-MS to analyse what compounds were comprising an odor and it told us a list of the composing compounds. The university I worked with on the project were using similar technology to reverse engineer whisky, they can detect a fake with high quantitative certainty. They were also doing something on the decomposition of a corpse.

@@Leo99929 - doesn't a patent 'just' protect the owner from people profitiing from the patent? If you were to make some equivalent solution entirely for your own use, not sell any on, then are you breaking the law?

@@thosdot6497 Totally! You can make as much for personal use as you like. You just can't sell it. The cost of prosecuting individuals for patent infringement makes it infeasible .

@@Leo99929 - I see that completely as a win-win! Evaporust don't have to bother making the stuff, and I don't have to bother buying it from them!