I just spent the better part of an hour researching Track Saw guides, along with all the not so good reviews on any one of them. So how I stumbled on to your video is a God send. Just saved me $100.00 on buying something flimsy and cumbersome. This is a great idea, thanks for sharing.
A suggestion to consider--let the extra width of plywood extend beyond the second side guide (don't cut it off). It would allow a place to clamp the jig that will not hit the motor (on a standard circular saw--not a clearance issue with the worm drive saw). Very quick and useful design!
Great design and clear instruction, many thanks. A word of warning for others, I made a school-boy error and assumed that when my Black and Decker circular saw was in the 0 degree mitre position that the blade was 90 degrees to the foot of the saw; it wasn't, which was discovered when I measured the first test cut made with the track! Zero degrees corresponded to one or two degrees out, which translates to a couple of milimetres over the width of 18mm material. Lesson: CHECK YOUR BLADE IS SQUARE TO THE FOOT OF YOUR CIRCULAR SAW BEFORE YOU START TO CUT!
Love the idea! Thanks Tommy! HERE'S A SUPER SIMPLE UPGRADE SUGGGESTION: Route one dovetail groove lenthwise down the approximate centerline of the bottom face of the guide. Position isn't critical but just keep that groove well clear of the saw's cut line. You'll need to use 3/4" plywood for the base to have enough thickness to accomodate the dovetail groove. Now use 2 Matchfit Dovetail Clamps, one slid in from each end of the jig into the bottom-side dovetail groove to clamp the guide securely to your workpiece. The sliding clamps will easily adjust to any workpiece cut length and the jig will be solidly attached to the workpiece during the cutting operation! Using this method of attachment, you also won't be limited as to where on your workpiece you clamp your jig. Because the clamps exist ONLY underneath the jig, they will never interfere with the topside saw travel. Simply slide both clamps out of the groove for storing your jig. I'm making one! Keep up the good work Tommy!
I've checked quite a few track saw guides on YT...this is by far the easiest and most effective I've come across. Great, simple design. Will build one for my shop. Thanks for putting this together.
Thank you so much for this video. I have macular dystrophy, so cutting a straight line is no longer possible for me. With what you've shown here, I'll have a couple of these made for the small circular saw and the jigsaw I have. Now I really feel like there's hope for me to make some projects!
I was just watching this and thinking that just scratching a cut in would make a nice line for the drill holes... I guess someone already thought of it!
I’ve watched loads of videos on making the ideal track saw and yours is by far the most simplistic but effective design. I’m so glad I didn’t make one before I saw yours. I’ll be making one tomorrow. Thanks for posting.
Brilliant work. Even allows a novice to cut straight with a circular saw. Being someone just taking up woodworking as a hobby, I've personally had problems doing straight cuts. But this simple track has solved the problem. Thanks bro.
I made something very similar back in the day that gave me the advantage of the blade edge being readily available to clamp on a panel, but it surely didn't have the saw containment that a track provides. Your solution is both cost effective and beautifully simple ... one that will open up the track approach to a lot of us on a very strict allowance. Thanks for sharing this ...
I came on RU-vid today looking for reviews so I’d know which track saw to buy and found this video. You just saved me some major money. Thank you for taking the time to make and post this tutorial!
Made one myself today. Works like a charm!! Used some excess 1/2” plywood I had lying around and Darren Rutger’s suggestion to make a first pass and just scratch the surface so I can align the sight holes. And it turned out perfect. Used the jig to cut a piece of MDF and the cut was clean and as straight as a factory cut! 👍🏼
Had enough left over lumber to make this - for a portable battery powered Dewalt (read small) saw .... your instructions for an old guy were perfect and simple to understand.....many thanks.
nice....it is good to see someone us more "common" hobbyists can relate to. Simple tools, simple design, and 100% functional without using thousands of dollars worth of equipment.
Yea it's always funny when one of these channels says "DIY" and then uses equipment that costs more than a luxury sedan... like at a certain point that's just not DIY anymore lol
What a great design, Tommy! I made this out of 1/2” plywood since I was using the Rockwell versacut hand saw (small circular saw and light weight). I also put paste wax on the wood and the saw shoe plate to make a smooth gliding action.
so the 1/2" is rigid enough? I too have a compact circular saw, and the 3/4" would take some of the depth for my cut. I wondered if, with the sides, a 3/8" plywood piece would be enough.
@@talleysuehohlfeld446 just bump up the rigidity of your 'frame', maybe aluminium angle for example. Theoretically you could get away with 1/8" ply as it's really just a sight line and provides a bit of tensile strength in the 2D plane
I was gonna purchase a track saw and table until I ‘saw’ your video, lol...what I ended up designing was a 9 ft X 9 ft out feed table for my table saw with a 4 inch slot wide enough to slide 8X4 sheet goods inside for both ripping and cross cutting...I used your design to design a 9 ft track that I will be able to raise and lower to lock the sheet good in place and make my cut at desired measurement...saved me $900, thanks
Excellent! This is how instructional videos should be made --- crisp, quick-paced, clearly explained, and valuable. I occasionally need a guide rail like this and have jury-rigged quick solutions, but this is the way to go!
Wow, this is by far the best, easiest solution I’ve seen. By the way, I had to stop and admire your opening into - your work table and out feed for the tablesaw is awesome! Thanks for sharing
I believe it s not really smart this way Sanding paper under stop your guide from moving Using holes means you need to trace the bit you need 6 mm ply with 2” 18 mm rip cutting down with your skill saw Sanding paper underneath Best guide ever No clamp 5 mn to make it perfect accuracy and you don t need to trace just mark your measurement
I have been constantly, "building demos", in my head but this is so perfect there is no reason to even consider other ways. Perfection, thank you, sir.
Man, I just bought and zero-clearanced a Kreg Accu-cut a couple days before watching this. I should’ve known better. There’s always a jig! Smart idea 💡
I have been reviewing so many track saw videos. Like you said some were simple but flawed. Some were complex and required additional tools to create them. This on was right on!
Great design. I have a very simple guide that allows the blade to drift to the right if I allow it to. I use it mainly to trim doors so sometimes I have to cut twice. What I really like about your design is that the frame can be quite thick but the panel at the bottom can actually be as thin as 3mm Masonite or Mdf. Big thumbs up.
Hi Tommy, I may have commented before, but I don't see it below since there are thousands of comments. Just wanted to say that I like your style and presentation. And I also like your simple yet effective designs. You are another one of "my kind of carpenters" here on RU-vid.
THANK YOU!!! I’ve watched tons of track videos and the person uses 3 other tools to create what should be a simple project but only if you have a router set up and a jigsaw too. This I can do and it doesn’t involve me having other saw stations set up first. Great video and explanations.
Hi from the UK. What an inspiration you are. Your idea is by far the simplest one to make. I will be making one like that today. Great video!!! Just goes to show that you can teach an old dog new tricks. Best wishes Buddy. David. 68 and a bit years old ;)
Thank you so much for this great idea. I built one this afternoon and started cutting plywood panels fo a kitchen Island I am building. I got excellent accurate cuts. I saw your newer video where you put plexiglass panels over the holes to help prevent tear out. This might be OK for younger eyes but I am 70 and I never see as good when looking through glass. I like the open holes and I slide a wide putty knife into the slot to help me reference the line. I am using a battery Mikita with an ultra finish Diablo blade and I could not see any tear out over the holes. Thanks again.
Great design! I'll definitely make one of these. Only changes I'll bring from my (decades-old) design are: 1) I'll use 1/4" hardboard for the base (lighter and slicker); and 2) I'll put iron-on edge banding on the rails (again to make it slicker). Thanks for the great ideas! (edit: just remembered) 3) Secure rails from the bottom!
Isn’t hardboard less hard wearing than plywood? I’d like to make this and would love to use the spare hardboard I got lying around instead of having to buy plywood but am worried it might not last long.
@@rsamaran not necessarily. If you put a hard shellac on either of them it will be harder, but I never wore out my old hardboard saw guide.... I did cut it up though. Oops!
GeeDeeBird Thank you so much for replying. I didn’t hold much hope of a reply but this made my day. Off to get some shellac, always wanted an excuse to get some 😀
This is my first project for my new workshop, my table saw bit the dust yesterday and I was thinking of replacing it, now there’s no need. Thanks for your video & tips.
I’m glad you dig the track, but I will so that it’s not a replacement for a table saw. It’s good for breaking down things that are too large for a table saw, but it will become tedious trying to make all of your cuts with it. Anyway, I hope this helps!
One Minute Workbench, the amount of work my table saw was getting made it an expensive tool. Normally with a full sheet of ply I would work outdoors (weather permitting) on a bench made of 4” rough cut timber & two saw horses. This will be safer, more accurate and efficient. Thanks again.
Great idea! I love the sight windows. I will make a 5 footer and a 9 footer as alternatives to an $800 tracksaw kit that i would seldome use. I had just made one for cross cutting metal roofing on a bevel and deep-6'ed it after the job was done. I hadn't thought of making one for cutting sheet goods and trimming doors. Thanks for sharing.
I really appreciate your video. I live* in a farmhouse as a caretaker and it sure it hard getting by with the little that I have. You helped me save alot of money and time with this project thank you
I use one to trim doors so I like to have two of the holes spaced for a 30 inch door. , to get a splinter free cut make a firs pass with the blade just makin a kiss cut. barely cutting the top surface then reset the blade to cut completely thru. I have a sharpie mark on the saw depth adjustment to set the Kiss cut depth.
That’s pretty much what I made years ago before all the track saws became available - my base was 1/4in ply with 1/2in rips for the fences. Had mine for years. Nice video dude well worth making one 👍🏻
Well thanks for this idea, I have one job planed and being a weekend warrior (amateur carpenter) this track guide is just what i need, it stops the saw from wandering in both directions witch for people like me can be a problem😊
Great guide. I've watched a few of these, because I need something a little more usable than clamping a straightedge to plywood for straight cuts, and most of the rest were excessively complicated - mostly involving metal guide rods which require the saw to bolt on and your plywood has to fit inside of. This design is great, can be scaled up for 8' sheets, and could be modified to fit a new saw should mine ever die.
I've built one using your design ,the idea of the holes to view line is brilliant. Great video and very clear instructions,first class ! Have a great Christmas Paul Green.
Nice job man... When I made my track I used a finely "V" notched spreader to spread silicone on the base making it very grippy... particularly as I was cutting a lot of shiney melamine... clamping is unnecessary in most cases !! 🙄🤨 😎👍☘🍺
Fantastic simple idea..finally one that works great without all the bells and whistles. I think a lot of these people commenting with adding things to it are missing the whole point. Thank you.
Thinking about it, if you use aluminum rails on the right and left sides (like 1 inch screen room stock), then you can use thinner material supporting your saw and not lose that whole 3/4 inch of cutting depth from plywood. Obviously losing cut depth not a problem if only cutting sheet goods.
I must have looked at more than 30 different plans and All require a lot of work and many required you to modify the saw. Your design is simple and does not require fancy cuts and gadgets. Thanks for your simple explanation as well. I plan on making 2 of these. One at 5.25' and one at 9.25' to allow a full cut. I can stop looking now. Thanks, Johnny
Great idea. How about spinning the saw and cutting another slot in the opposite side of the track. That would make it usable in whatever direction you happen to lift it in. I’m going to copy this myself. Brilliant.
Thanks! I like the idea that it would be usable in both directions...I'd be interested to see how it affects the integrity having another slot in it. If you build it, let me know how it turns out!
Yes! Thank you! RU-vid’s algorithm kinda sucks. I e been searching for track saw ideas for over a month and Finally this video suddenly appeared on my homepage. Exactly what I’ve been looking for. Returning the Bora WTX while I can, was about to 3D print a saw base. Now I’ll just use 3/4 cabinet scraps. Kreg Accu-Cut has served well, but the blue edge guide strips have been knicked and chipped by saw blades. Thank you again for this simple effective design.
One thing I don't like: I DIDN'T THINK OF IT MYSELF!!! Excellently simple design. Mine will accommodate an 8' cut, and I may attach a piece of Formica underneath for a more durable edge. I've been using a straight edge with integral clamp for crosscuts, and a pair of 4+ footers joined with pins to make an 8+ footer for rips. But the pins have too much slop and don't keep it straight, so I have to work out ways to anchor the center. And of course, I have to make sure I compensate correctly (!) for the baseplate width and saw kerf. OR... Build an 8 footer of your design!
good design Tommy . i’ve always made and used just a one sided guide out of 1/4” MDF or Masonite for cutting solid core Commercial doors for their undercut i use the same Wormdrive saw as yours and although you are correct the saw can wander in one direction another benefit of that guide is it protects the door from scratches from the saw bed and does allow you to align your cut to a mark onthe door or whatever you are cutting another great tip is always using a thin kerf blade Carbide tipped as i believe the one i have is over 15 years old and has cut many things during that time as i also use my Saw to break down sheet goods for my personal shop for that purpose i do keep a slick self adhesive Silicone tape on the saw bed to prevent scratching my sheet goods before final dimensioning them on my table saw that has a smooth cast top that’s paste waxed
Pretty Kool! Another option is to router a channel across your table for the saw blade, plus both pieces are then supported during and after the completed cut.
Too, if you only routed on the discard side of the cut line, then you'd have a zero tearout saw tool. Just show cut line with the guide and you'd have perfect, tear out free cuts every time.
@@alankauth Now add a runner under the track, perfectly perpendicular to the cut line, that runs into another channel, perpendicular to the other channel and you have a dead square cutting tool ;)
New here. What I like about your design? It’s simple, works and different from everything else I’ve seen on YT. Better idea because yours have less of a chance of the saw moving off track while cutting. Great job.👍🏾👏🏾😊
YOU GOT IT!!! I was looking for the maximum depth cut also. I knew someone would be smart enough to figure out how to not keep stacking material between the work and saw foot. And YOU were the one that got it! So again, YOU GOT IT!!! Thank you!!! (I guess the sight hole plexiglass does make it a little better in the other video).
The most simple, practical, economical, easy to understand, and quick to make circular saw guide. I've been wondering why the other complications in other c. saw guide projects, until I watched this. Thank you!
Did you consider using 1/4" plywood for the base. You'll gain 1/2" depth of cut. Also, the 3/4" guide strips will be rigid enough to keep the 1/4" plywood flat and rigid. Good design with the sight holes to align the cut line.
I actually made another one with 1/2" ply, and I think that's about as thin as I'd want to go. The other one is made from higher quality ply as well, and it has a very nice feel to it. If you want to check it out, here's a link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fc77cL8ReBQ.html Anyway, thanks for the feedback, and thanks for letting me know you enjoyed the video!
wow i was gonna buy one of them expensive ones but ran into this post and now i have money for beer and extra money to build this. great idea wow. Thanks
This is a great idea!! Honestly, something I wish I had thought of before fighting with a straight edge and clamps. I'm just a DIY'er but this will help me so much. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the video Tommy, I've been looking for a diy track guide and you're right. They make it complicated. I was going to brainstorm to make a simple track. Now, I don't have to. Your DIY track guide is awesome 👍👍 now I'm a subscriber ✌👌👍
Great idea. I found some lengths of unistrut on a job i was working on. I used these instead and works a treat. Heavy though but doubles up as a straight edge for other jobs.
Hi, Like the Saw guide you made. Very clear instructions and simple to make. Like the fine details of placing a double paper edge so the saw will not have friction yet maintains fine accuracy. Another great point is removing the saw blade so the saw base sits squarely on the plywood so it could be tested to run smoothly between the two side edges. Your point of drilling the four 1 inch eye holes to align with the cut line FIRST before running the saw on the guide was very helpful.. and lastly noting which side to cut due to blade thickness seen from the 1 inch hole brings the whole project very clear to understand. Brilliant. Thank you. I am going to do one up.
Nice job. You can actually make this with thin 1/4" thick plywood paneling. It will lighter, more flexible, and lay flatter on your work piece similar to how the aluminium tracks work. Edit: subscribed
The nice thing with this build is you can adapt it for a jigsaw (or any sliding power tool like a router). Will definitely build one, thanks for sharing!
Thanks! I'd love to add pics of your plexiglass version to the gallery on the website! If you're interested, email me through the website when you're done!
Awesome idea. I was going to buy Kreg Accu-Cut but found out from reviews it's not so accurate due to lateral movement of sled on the aluminum rail. I have an upgrade suggestion for your design, add T-Slot track on the underside to be able to use track clamps to attach the guide rail to the workpiece. Also I cut on pink insulation foam much easier that way as the foam supports everything.
Would you still be any better off. As it still needs a drill hole to start it off .thoughts.? I'm still learning at wood work so I'm just your average diyer for time being
Из десятков подобных видео это самая простая и эффективная линейная направляющая для любой циркулярной пилы, супер просто и гениально! Спасибо! 👍👍 👍 👍 👍 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 👏🏻👏🏻
Another of your great ideas! This, along with several of your others, are something that is very doable, and a big help to any woodworker. And your video making technique is top notch. They're interesting, to the point, well spoken, and not unneccessarily long. Thanks for all you do.
Back in 1968 an old timer showed this to me. He had one similar to this made out of plexi-glass. Been using a variation of this guide ever since. A smaller length guide works great on doors.
OK, I just stumbled upon this today. I love the simpleness of the jig. I am definitely making one for myself. Also, I love the simpleness of the video. It is long enough to cover the subject but short enough to be interesting. I have subscribed and will be checking out other videos.
Thank you for the compliments and welcome aboard the channel! I'd love to hear what you think of my other videos as well. Also, thanks for the feedback and good luck with your build!
Great idea! The only thing I would do to make it better is to put a thin sheet of clear plastic on the bottom to make it 100% zero clearance, even where you cut your sight holes (matters on a door or where you want zero tearout). Then you won't need tape to reduce fraying and tearout at the cut. Clear plastic allows you to still see your line. Also, if you use teflon on your side rails, you can close down the "shim" gap to allow free movement. Friction won't matter. Also, if you use cabinet grade hardwood plywood, the whole tool will be more stable. Maybe coat the whole thing with clear urethane to keep it the most stable with weather changes. Actually, thinking about it, you could put a sheet of plastic or teflon strips on the top to make it MUCH easier to push a saw. But, certainly as it is works pretty darn good!
Brilliant original idea and these are good improvements. Would easing the bottom edge of the two guide strips help stop sawdust binding the saw base? This jig idea may also work well with a router for cutting dados or producing a fine edge.
Thank you! So far dust hasn't caused it to bind - I think that's because you only ever make one cut before you remove the jig. And as soon as you remove it, the dust tends to fall out of it. Another factor may be that my saw's shoe actually has a curled edge, so there's space for dust. If you have a saw with a shoe that is sharp (probably a cast base), then you might need to incorporate the easing of the edge you suggested. I agree, a jig like this could also be used with a router to produce different types of cuts - great idea! Thanks for sharing!
