Got a boat with a rotted wood transom, so I built a wood one for temporary use until I figured out how I wanted to build mine for my Mercury 9.9 and took it out and cracked it the first time I twisted the throttle! Lmao 😆 so I watched your video and got inspired and now I will never have to mess with it again! All aluminum transom with better bracing like over kill style lol!
Thinking about building a brace like this for an untraditional vegetation runner. In your opinion, would this help prevent some of the torqueing damage caused by a surface drive on a mod v like a grizzly 1754 or 1860?
I followed this series to a T, except I just realized I forgot to paint the bare metal before installing the wood and transom supports. I did not have any corrosion previously on my transom as the previous board was not treated. Will this be ok that it’s unpainted inside? The board that is against my transom now is marine grade and covered in fiberglass epoxy.
I am looking at a 1987 Alwe!d 18' boat an do not know how to check the tansom. It is without a motor an the boat is in rough condition. To say it needs restoration is putting it lightly. But it is built like a tank. Looks more like a badge than boat. Very wide an deep. More project than I was looking for but I can't get it out of my mind? It needs transom would make up my mind for me. So what is the best way to check to see if it is sound. Looks like it was replaced once because of the guesses at the rear corner. They are thick aluminum guesses above the side an back of the boat top? Was that the normal construction of these boats? I can't see what was under them . Any comments are welcome.
I have a 14-36 jon I have already used a 1.5 thick TBN Transom then used 1/4 plate on the back 34-14 bolted all through. It also already had two floor to Transom knee braces like yours I added back. I’m gonna run a 670 with a swamp runner large kit. Is that heavy duty enough or do I do this as well ? Are roads are rough so it bounces around
A tip or two, I noticed that your port side tube support warped after doing your finish welds. When welding frames and brackets, swap around and get as far away from your previous weld as you can to keep warping down to a minimum. I forget sometimes and have to use a torch to straighten out stuff when I do. Also, don't see if you did it or not, I grind away all the galvanization when I use galvanized metal to weld on, not only will paint not want to stick to it worth a darn, the weld temps on galvanizing causes it to off gas and can cause poisoning if you breathe any of the fumes in and it makes you feel like absolute crap. Last but not least, I CAN'T BELIEVE YOU ARE PUTTING STEEL ON ALUMINUM, YOUR GONNA BE ON THE WATER AND YOUR BOATS GONNA FALL APART AND KILL EVERYONE, EVEN ONLOOKERS WHO WITNESS IT, NOT TO MENTION IT CAN CAUSE OTHER WORLDLY HARM LIKE CATS LIVING IN PEACE WIH DOGS AND NEWS MEDIA ACTUALLY TELLING THE WHOLE TRUTH!!!!. Had to put the last part in lol 😅
LOL, Omg I died reading that last part! Not the cats and dogs peace corps!!! LMAO. I tried to move around when welding but yeah it did warp really fast on me with it being thin steel. I did grind off all the galvinizing before I started I just didnt show that part.
Marine grade uses different glues and has no voids in the plys. Basically a better built plywood. Treated wood is soaked with chemicals to help keep the wood from rotting. Those chemicals will eat aluminum. Marine grade is fine it is just more expensive but still needs to be sealed.
@@SendItJonBoats Awesome thinking I do the same I got a lot. small ones braze bigger rivet? then marine weld and paint should hold. Love the series, seriously helping with my duck boat build.
So.. pressure treat wood is not recommended on aluminum boats ? Why ? What kind of wood would you recommend then ? I need to replace mine and want to use the correct stuff. Thanks. Gods bless.
Treated wood has chemicals in it that will react with aluminum and cause it to pit and corrode, eventually putting tons of tiny holes in the transom. Use regular plywood, and coat it in with fiberglass resin. It will be fine. People tend to overthink this stuff.
Awesome rebuild, only think you for got that most known it all would tell you is that won’t work your boat will sink to heavy with iron!!🤔 should have weighed it !! I have a 16 extra wide that was put through serious abuse!! I’ve put two 40,s hp on mine! Same thing that won’t work it’ll sink!! 🤔. Just getting it set up working and set right then I’ve gotta strip it restructure the transom! Flip it clean up the bottom and coat with some super slick!! Ps. The boat will impress u with how it handles with the two motors!! Great video I will definitely have better transom rebuild thanks to you!! 🙏
I have a 16/52 with Electroless on the transom where the outboard holes are do you think I should cut the square out and weld a new piece of aluminum in or try and patch each hole? Thanks
I’m getting ready to start my own job boat project. I was wondering if you think your steel brace would work for me. It’s a 14ft boat and I have a 25hp Yamaha outboard for it.
The chemicals they use in the pressure treating process will pit and eat away the aluminum. Thats what happened on my boat, the wood was eating the aluminum and it was in bad shape.
Buy aluminum welding gear, use aluminum construction materials. No amount of paint will prevent the corrosion that will quickly start in your steel and aluminum interface.
@@SendItJonBoats ok cut the rivets out and punched it out the bottom. When i reinstall should i use special bolts or closed riverts again ? And use 5200 to help seal
I like most of your stuff, however steel in a aluminium boat is a complete fail. Doesn't matter what steel paint you used on the aluminium. It was a wrong choice due to the rust stopping chemicals not being the same for steel and aluminium.
