Parts are cheap but takes a LOT of them to get on par with anything today. I believe I was still I'm the low 13's even after putting on my procharger with full exhaust. If you do go that route I suggest putting a 2010 GT's transmission in it was good up to 600rwhp+ and pretty much bolted right up. Took me about 30k to get to the mid 11's. But boy is it worth it. Good luck 👍.
It’s all part of the race car community brothaa you’ll have issues once in a while but just know that at the end of the day all of your hard work will be worth it af 💯💯🔥
With the cams and setup you got.. it will easily make 550hp.. not that you wanna run that much.. but its easy.. Id maybe get a different pulley and drop the boost to 6-7 psi
New to the channel can’t wait to get mine running good except mine is a sn95 😎 but has a vortech v2 also bought it like that... 500+ wheel would be insane for me haha
I’ve had that issue w my car as well. THOROUGHLY cleaned terminals and cables, put corrosion spray on it and havent had any issues since.... other than my p1000 code never going away🙄
Those 42lb injectors have to be getting close to max duty cycle. How did the AF look at the top of the pull? Did she lean out a bit. If so not a big deal as it will squeeze a bit more power out.
Building my vic now just put 15.7k down for t56 and fully forged block stage 3 ported heads and stage 3 turbo cams for it. Will be posting videos soon. Love the set up fam!!!
Have your tuners messed with your IAC valve at all? Usually when these cars are rolling to a stop in neutral they bring the idle way up so they don't stall out.
@@prestonsarlo might be miscalibrated. Have u looked into adjusting your idle screw? It needs to be at a specific voltage to be recognized by the computer.
Did you put it in neutral after the pull? And was the car no all the way warmed up?. I’ve had my car shut off on me before, the rpms just drop until the car shuts off
@@prestonsarlo I eventually want to super charge my new edge, but it would be my daily. Do you think it would still be a reliable car to just do city driving in? (It has around 100,000 miles) just curious
Do you have plans to build the bottom end? I’ve been around 2v’s and 4vs about all my life and pushing 500 through a sbe will bite you in the ass when you least expect it
It depends on the power adder and the psi etc lots more than goes into it other than a peak dyno number. 500 with a turbo is easier for the engine to survive vs 500 with a blower. He's pushing things but with good fuel and tune it should live a while.
He's not quite pushing 9 psi it should be ok. It's making alot of power because it has cams making it more efficient etc plus turbos make more than blowers do as they don't take power to make power. All this is a factor. A cammed turbo car can make more power safely 8-9 psi should be ok.
mine does the exact same thing when i do any type of pull when i have the ac on or any type of air on, maybe you had the heater on? idk why it does it i’ve been having that problem
I have a similar setup with a Vortech V3. Made 367/387 on 8psi intercooled on the stock motor. Currently building a motor fully forged with cams in hopes of making 500.
@@brendonpotts7961 Forged bottom end, .030 pistons with valve reliefs, stock heads, Todd Warren cams, longtubes, 10% OD lower damper, 8 rib pulleys with a 3.12 blower pulley, return style fuel system with duel 465lph pumps, 78mm TB. Hopefully it will put down some decent power.
Hey bro do you know around how much boost a stock 4.6 can handle I’m trying to do sorta the same setup either imma go with the on3 kit or the vortech and also what cams should I run to be safe?
With a stock bottom end these cars can hold 450hp some people can do more like me and be fine but it comes down to the tune. For as cams I have a guy that I can get u in contact with that can make you very specific cams for your set up
Todd Warren makes some of the best cams for 2v’s, especially if you’re going boost and if you don’t wanna play Russian roulette everytime you rip it, generally you want to stay under 450whp on a sbe and have a very good tuner do the tune
@@Diragonomanyou can make more with cams and with a turbo because it makes more power per psi so you can keep it at 8-9 psi and be in the safe zone and still make 500 wheel. The overall setup greatly effects final power output and how much it will stay together etc. Running 500 pushing like 12 psi with a blower with a stock long block is totally different than pushing 8-9 psi with a turbo with cams making the setup more efficient you can make alot more power at a lower boost level. The fuel also has alot to do with what you can make. It's more likely to live with really good fuel. This is the same with any engine when pushing the limits of what it can handle. It's more about how much boost are you pushing through it it's more efficient the ladder setup is gonna be seeing alot less stress than a stock long block with 12 psi being forced through it with a blower. Peak power level is similar but the 12 psi blower setup is putting alot more stress on things. I think if you stay around 10 psi give or take they're good if you use good fuel and a good tune etc.
Lacking fuel possibly. After 428rwhp I had to go with a big ol fuel pump and injectors it would give out like that even after the upgraded parts if i didn't have at least 4 5 gallons. Was a some form of "limp mode".
I had a 98 gt and I would be driving like normal and out of no where my car would die, I would loose power steering, and the breaks would go stiff. I would take the key out and start the car again like nothing even happens. But it happened to me multiple times some almost being very very bad almost cause accidents. The car sits in my driveway cause idk what to do
My 02 mustang gt power steering did the exact same thing but the car didnt shut off. Turned it off and on and power steering came back. This happened once about maybe 4 years ago, never happened again Has around 190k miles and still runs like a fuckin champ lol Ill never know why it happened
Not to burst your bubble, but there is no way a basically stock 4.6 with the exception of cams and 9lbs of boost will do 500hp. It's totally impossible. Even through physics and math. Car came 260 go plus cams, sat another 40-60 max. Then you add 9 lbs of boost. So your 9lbs of boost did 200rwhp. Not possible. Either your not being completely honest, or your tuner def squewed the numbers. Every pound of boost is max 15 hp. Man, I wish it was that easy. I was at 15 grand to get 550. I now have a f series blower( much larger than yours) with cams( stage 3) ported polished heads, intake full exhaust and we will be looking at 650 rwhp. Those numbers are also corrected. Sorry bud, you seem like a cool dude, but I don't want you to be played by tuner
@@prestonsarlo and comp cams and procharger and fuel system ill be at 19 psi do u think ill make it to 500 with with my forged strocker set up ported heads and cams 278 ah and upgraded fuel system im also adding nitrous
@@prestonsarlo those are the same one's I'm getting. I just bought the same V2 s trim kit but I'm not cammed. Should i be able to make 400 or a little more ?
Sound like you IAC is not working. These cars need rpm because of the hydro boost tuner might have turned of the IAC and when you break and turn wheel you power steering pump makes a load on the engine and with out IAC to keep up revs the engine will just die like that. Before you put the blower didn’t you notice when you coasted to a light in neutral the RPM would hang until you stopped the car.
Never noticed the idle hanging but I’ve narrowed down when the car dies now. It only dies when I coast to a red light in neutral but if u keep it in gear it’s fine
Welcome man! And I’ve got a set of cams and new timing components. I have a built 31 spline rear as well. If u click the description on this video I have my entire parts list!
I believe your engine shut off because the fuel went all the way back to the tank and the pump was not able to feed fuel into the line. Youre gonna need a race fuel cell to prevent that.
Just listening to the pull at the beginning of the video...your blowoff/bypass valve is fucking up and giving you all that flutter. It should just go PSSHHH once you let off the gas.
Also, over 500rwhp is 600 crank. C'mon, everyone and there mother would have 600 go mustangs with under 10 grand. Do you know what 600 horses is? That's a mid 10 second car. That's serious. Also, 42lb injectors can't flow enough for 600hp. Even 5 is pushing it. I have 700 and using 96lb injectors. Remember, I have a f series blower pushing 20lbs of boost, more than twice of yours. Your tuner can play with the numbers. He is lying to you. Can change the resistance, weight etc.
Bro, 520 on 9lbs is absolutely impossible. I'm not hating. With physics involved, it's not possible. Your car stock makes 210-220 rear wheel horse. You added cams, ported heads and a small supercharger making 9lbs. 14.7 is what is called stoichiometry power. Meaning that's what what the air is. 14off air to 7 of fuel. When an engine sees 14.7( let's just say 15) it thinks it's now double the size, meaning you should double your power. Even if you did 15lbs of boost pressure, you still would not be close. I'm sorry, but I would have a sit down with tuner. He is ballooning your numbers. Myself and buddies of mine, have stroked engines, cams, intake ported heads, with 20lbs of boost and making 650-700. 11 more pounds of boost with much more done and only 100 more hp. It's just not possible. Your rear and tranny would not take thar either. It just pisses me off how tuners take advantage and make you think you have so much more than you do. Just looking out. Peace
@@robvas he’s not wrong, ambient atmospheric pressure is close to 14 psi. 220 stock at 14psi or ambient. 440 under 14 pounds of boost. Ambient + 14 psi = 440.
@@prestonsarlo I have an 04, and when I would do a pull like that the car would shut off. It only happened a couple times, but when it shuts off so does your power steering. Once the car is back on your power steering is back to normal.
