I must say, always use the proper tools , like a 1/2 drive six point impact socket , after working on cars and trucks for the last 39 years as a certified mechanic, you learn that getting hurt by pure Negligence or being Naive? is not worth it ! When I was a rookie I used a 1/2 inch drive ,12 point chrome socket that shattered in my hand went through my leather glove . Six stitches later, I learned never to use the wrong tools . And thank God I had enough sense to at least wear gloves! Well that my tip for the Day ! Always use the proper tools when doing a project! (Unless you're stuck out in the middle of the desert with no choice???...lol.. But great video.
The track bar bushing caused my death wobble... Barely found it but had my fiance turn the wheels and saw the movement... I said, dang no wonder it felt like my wheels were falling off! Whole bushing was almost gone
No need to cut. Put a bottle jack under the stud of the joint. Lift the right side of truck off ground a bit and hit the housing for the joint. Use the trucks weight to your advantage. I work at a ford dealership and this is my method!
@@endtables hey! Question! My 2012 F250 superduty hits the frame bumps HARD. I put new rancho shocks on it and it helped for a while but it's back to feeling loose and bouncy on my driver's side. This all started after I took it to a mechanic to stop the death wobble. I'm thinking it's the coil springs? It has 200,000 miles on it. What could it be other than the coil springs? I just want it not to hit so hard when I hit bumps.
@@noeeon9910 I would definitely check all your cab mounts! They rot away and will definitely do what you are describing. I bet it’s a violent hit when it happens
@@endtables cab mounts, why didn't I think of that? I will check all of them the last time I checked they did look rotted out, I might as well replace them. Should be too costly. Thanks for the reply!
after removing the stub shaft, found my popping to be the ball-socket-bearing in the double cardan joint. think i will drill tap my ball joints and this ball on the tracking bar for alemites!
FYI: doing the same ball joint needed to cut the ball joint threads. I used my sawzall with great success. Less dangerous then a grinder. Just use a high quality metal cutting sawzall blade and your golden.
Sooo on the other end of that stabilizer bar is 1 bolt and the whole bar comes out and a lot easier to cut, press out the ball joint a bench with a vise! Got it done in an hour. Great video though, Showed me I had to cut the ball joint to use the press. I also put the new ball joint in the freezer ahead of time and heated the bar with a torch to make pressing in the new ball joint easier.
2 ways to remove the track bar…#1 turn the wheel left and right till it breaks free…#2. Put an air chisel beside the stud. Both will drop the bar in 5 seconds
drilled way into ball joint & gave up, u might drill into the side . my death wobble was in steering box and replaced tie rods too. truck steers now but will 6.4 last! some one deleted engine and bent over backpressure tube to switch which may cause check engine light/ 12mpg.have switch/ tube ordered,may help mileage. Fix or repair daily!!!!
That sounds worse than my adventure. I actually just recently had some other bushing wear out so I decided to swap the track bar and steering bar out for the PMF bars with heims. That locked it down real nice. I need to do a video on that.
I've looked high and low for a video on this very job and this is the first one that shows you step for step, very well done my friend. I have a 2011 6.7L 4X4 that needs the same thing done to it. Every time I turn I'll hear a clunk especially when I hit a little bump as I turn it'll clunk and it drives me freaking nuts😡rawwwwww! I gave your video a gigantic thumbs up bud. Take care buddy. 👍
I like to tap the area with a hammer while I crank down the press, to hopefully loosen up corrosion. Also some heat/kroil. Back off, then repeat. I’ve actually bent a press on a Ram 2500, they are the worst. It should never be so tight you think it’s going to explode or bend the screw….use heat or even an air hammer. It’s always a battle, though…..I don’t care what tools you have.
Never go cheap on your cut-off Wheels I heard of one exploding once and lodging itself through someone's stomach into their spine I stick with Diablo only those things are beasts
I have definitely learned that lesson. Harbor Freight is not the place to buy those. I’ve had good luck with dewalt. Only tried that by accident. But now my eyes have been opened. It’s not as sketchy if you get good disc. But I still use more safety gear for that tool than any other.
Welcome to my world, So I’m not the only one that got one in there cockeyed, but I didn’t notice. In the next few days when it’s not 26° outside hopefully the 9 inch press will drive it out in combination with lots of hammering.
From the experience I had on one of my Ram's (the death wobble), about 3 months ago I was on a black top road and drove through a real bad section of the road. I had the same occurrence with my F250 I did with my Ram years ago. Didn't think much about it until the other day I drove over a spot by home at about 35-40 mph and it happened again. So, I'm going to replace the ball joint and put in an aftermarket track bar. Hope that fixes it. Truck has a 111k on it and the wife won't let me buy a new one yet.
My truck has had death wobble off and on since 85k miles when I lifted it. I’m at 245k now and it’s back again. I did the wiggle test and saw movement in the lower track bar ball joint, ball joint on pitman arm, and upper track bar bushing. All 3 joints together make for a lot of movement. Going to switch to solid mounts and heims on all 3 of those. I will try to do a video and share my experience. I’m going to use PMF parts.
It tightened the feel of my steering but did not fix the pop I was hearing. That turned out to be the jam nut on the 4 link bars being loose. That took towing 7k pounds and coming to a complete abrupt stop to figure out.
You are absolutely correct. There are a lot of better quality options out there. I do Fab work as well and it was very tempting to cut all the factory bracket off and go back with new brackets, dom tube, and heims. But this being my daily, I forced myself to resist. Heims are a lot more maintenance when thinking in terms of a daily driver use.
My track bar was stuck to the balljoint so bad that even pigs foot on a air hammer did nothing so I had to cut the ball joint in half above the bar lol (I’m replacing track bar anyways
I think you are right. I’m getting death wobble really bad lately and I just looked and there is a hood bit of movement in that joint. I’m now going to swap over to PMF solid track bar and drag link. Get rid of all the ball joints and rubber bushings that allow wear and movement over time.
