2002 Ford F-350 Front End Rebuild: Ball Joints, Wheel Bearings, Tie Rods, Drive Shafts, and U Joints 

Thank you very much. I truly do appreciate the positive feedback

Thanks for watching and commenting, really glad it helped

Hey thank you, I really do appreciate the comment

Welcome!

Thanks you and thanks for watching

glad it helped!

thank you!

still so much cheaper than a new one!!! how you been? how is winter up North?

@@trailblogger r u going to upload some of u riding ur raptor 700

yessssss definitely!

@@trailblogger it has been -10 to -20 for the last month and I’m doing everything not to get surgery right now. Getting better but my neck ribs and shoulder on the left side are having a rough time due to scar tissue build up from injuries. How has the southern life been. Haven’t been on here much lately.

just living the life! man that sounds rough, i hate surgery too but might be best to just get it over with?

Great so far. Steerings straight as an arrow

next video, f350 full send

@@trailbloggerthat would get views lol

sorry I dont recall now it has been awhile but I think I gathered the torques online and from youtube videos

So far so good! All components have held up good. She drives nice and straight, I can drive it down the road with one finger on the wheel. I did have to replace my hydro booster recently, not sure if it was due to the tight steering components and larger tires but we are back on the road now

O Reilly here in northern california carries some motorcraft and Spicer, some parts also came from autozone and amazon. Riff raff diesel also carries parts for our rigs. Also can check rock auto they have a ton of parts. Hope this helps

LOL I like MOOG and they have an autozone at the end of the street so I can't complain when it's in stock and nearby!

@@trailblogger MOOG has a bad rap lately, a mix of counterfeit crap on Evil-Bay and the quality control has landed in the dumpster... I use Spicer for all OEM parts ...

I just saw a video also where they carved a Moog in half and it was plastic inside... Might change brands also. The u joints i use are spicer

I was previously a moog fanboy. Around 2017 they started to feel and look different. This past year I did a complete rear end rebuild on my grand prix using moog and nothing felt as sturdy as OEM. Keeping it off my truck...wish me luck doing this and the internal dana60 seals this weekend. Not looking forward to the track bar ball joint

I can only imagine what you paid for all theseparts locally though. I spent roughly 2000 online

Still driving straight as an arrow with nice even tire wear on the all terraina. Haven't take it off road much though.

@@trailbloggerawesome, not worried about off road myself so that sounds good thanks for the reply great video!

@Doug1637 welcome! Just did the oil pump on this same truck, there is an upgraded one available by Welling and mine was leaking like crazy. No video unfortunately

LOL that would have been a huge time saver. I only had my air impact at this time and my air compressor hose had a hole in it

@@trailblogger They do sell a repair kit for the hoses. It's a barb fitting with hose clamps. Easy-peasy....I do admire the old school adjustable wrench (only bc the hose was inoperable) to force out the u-joints...

@@patrickwhelan5703 this hose was toast, split and bubbled in a few spots. Harbor freight cheapo brand

Do you mean the short, yellow handle sledge? I am not sure, found it in my great grandfathers stuff who was a machinist. Looks kind of home made and the metal is soft like lead

Not that I recall no. Maybe I should check that fluid

@@trailblogger I'm curious, right now I have a situation where it leaks on one side and I really cant afford doing both sides right now. I'm wondering if i can pull the axle out on the side that's not leaking in order to change the inner axle seals on my differential, or if I'll HAVE TO change both at the same time. For this job, I worry it'll be a waste if I don't change BOTH of those inner seals. I'm already changing a lower ball joint, on one side only. Basically, both axles have to be removed, or at least pulled out of the differential, for the ring gear to come out and change the seals. I've already got one seal, but I worry the other will tear if I remove it, then I'll fix the side that was leaking but create the same problem on the other side. On mine, I could smell gear oil on the hub. It's all wet/grimy all around the hub and the knuckle What happened, I went to change a single lower ball joint, and to my horror discovered not only my inner axle seals on the differential were leaking, but the oil already destroyed the rubber in my vacuum seal, and was getting all into my hub bearing. I'm working on a 2000 SD 4X4. I like your video, but I'm a little surprised you didn't do the inner axle oil seals inside the differential, as mine is leaking without even pulling the shaft (also 320k miles).

@@trailblogger I'd love to know if yours ever leaked. If they didn't, there's a good chance I'll get away with pulling the axle just enough to be able to remove and install the two inner diff axle oil seals, and i can save the ball joints on the other side for another time

@@samuelrivas3943 if it did, it was very little. it very well could have dripped some on the gravel and I just didnt notice late at night working in the dark with a flash light. I have never done the diff fluids on this truck. feeling like it would be a good time to check it now lol

ha thanks Nir!