Thanks bro! I appreciate the encouragement, I will soon, sorry the quality stinks. I never recorded the second part, I just replaced the gaskets and valves held tight.
Another thing to check is for bad oil floats. Valve off oil to compressor 1 at a time see if oil returns to other compressors. Checking compressor capacity for bad valve plates quickly you can feel your blowing high to low, compressor body abnormally hotter end bells or body as compared to others. Just a quick check before gauge check. Remember too suction will go up through oil float or refrigerant boil off on off cycle. Also use temp gun on heads and compare temps with other compressor heads. This could catch an offending valve plate. Pistons probably ok. No sound of crank rod or excessive vibration. Just a heads up.
Thanks for making, but it's like a big "in joke". As a newbie, I don't know what you're talking about most of the time. Yes, it exposes me to things I don't know, but it's more like shop talk among the guys over a Friday beer.
Unfortunately I don't, usually there was always another company that serviced condenser coils. I responded to the emergencies of improper practice on their part. That's a wonderful video idea! I'm traveling now and have been out of the field for quite some time.
On occasion the valves will pass the pump test, if you still can't keep oil in comp, and you have good differential pressure, fill compressor 3/4 glass then shut off oil inlet valve. If you can see the oil level lower after 30 mins of continued run time there may be worn bearings inside the compressor.
@@tram5724 I pump down the compressor by shutting off the suction then turn off comp, if crank case pressure rises too much and valves cannot hold discharge pressure from rack back there is an issue . If the compressor cycles off you don't want pressure from the discharge manifold passing through the valves and into the suction manifold. Watch it again it may click a second time. This is kind of a more advanced oil issue to troubleshoot. 🙏❤️
I have been doing refrigeration work for 43 years, I noticed that there is no" OIL SEPARATORS" on this equipment(need one for each compressor), that is an absolute must for condensing units that are higher than the evaporators( or long line sets). poor oil return will be the result, and it is really bad on low temp freezer systems( low suction pressure). also you do not want oil in the evaporators, it acts as a wonderful insulator, poor heat transfer will result, causing "FALSE LOADING" on the rack system/ T.X.V. hunting!!!!. I am not a big fan of multiple compressors operating one evaporator/ multiple evaporators that are all tied to one line set, all for the sake of "LOAD MATCHING". there is too much to go wrong, like a compressor burn out that contaminates the entire system!!!!
I totally agree, especially when nobody gives a crap, employees don't clean, and installers rush don't purge and are inexperienced. Engineers try to make everything more "efficient." well pal it may work on paper but not in the real world. Thanks for watching my friend. Stay well ❤️🙏
@@stevep3089 , I see that you are trying to make a real effort to make the systems better, so they do not keep "TAPPING" you on the shoulder. I feel your pain!!!. I know that engineers have their "WET DREAMS" making what you think is more efficient, but what they are really doing is "REVERSE ENGINEERING" meaning "LETS CUT COST ON THIS SYSTEM" so it barley works. I had a 30 H.P. copeland condensing unit that was a constant temperature system for a computer/ I.T. floor . the compressor had an "UNLOADER" on one head( 50% cap. reduction). this system did not have any controls for "YEAR ROUND OPERATION" and the condensing unit was outside. the guys that worked on it before me, was always adding oil to the compressor, and about once a year, the compressor would "LET GO" ( broken reeds from oil slugging). this system was given to me to straighten out the problems. I added al the goodies( head master, oil separator, evap. hot gas bypass- set @ 60 P.S.I for R-22) I had no idea just how much oil was in the system, I striped out 8 gallons of excess oil from the system, and "ALL " the issues went away!!!!. it went from being a total "TURD " to "NO SERVICE CALLS"( I LIKE THAT!!!) have a great day!!!!
Don't you mean an oil separator for each rack? I never saw a rack with an oil separator for each comp. Of course the bigger problems are the Carlyle compressors
@@tram5724 , the only way to get an oil separator on each compressor is to "ORDER" it that way when the "RACK" is being built, or you would have to add it yourself. what is nice with that set up, is any oil that leaves each individual compressor will be caught and returned back to that compressor. the reason it is not done that way is "COST", you have to "SPEC" that in when the order for the equipment is placed
@@tram5724 Carlisle's are great compressors if the system design installation and maintenance is done well. I haven't seen large commercial refrigeration rack with oil separators at each compressor either. I have seen it on industrial freeze dryers though.
The first thing I would do, is put a low pressure gauge on the suction and one on the oil feed line. There must be a min. of 5 lbs higher on the oil feed line to allow the oil to enter the compressor. Some racks use 10 or 20 lbs difference on the oil feed line. These Carlys have a oil pick up screen which is a bitch to get at.
Yes 5#, controls are 8# cut out. Carlyle recommends a 20# check. However some racks, Maybe due to not ideal piping practices, work better with a 30# check valve. Where's the screen on the Carlyle? Or which models have one?
@@Reefertech I'm almost certain there isn't one in the pump on E series or service replacements, def not in D series . Carlyle uses a magnetic plug to catch metal debris at the bottom of compressor case.
@@stevep3089 , all semi- hermetic compressors that have an oil pump will have a "PICK UP SCREEN" on the suction side of the oil pump, and a magnet to pick up any metal made of steel. the location/ removal depends on make of the compressor. they do need to be cleaned from time to time. if you do plan to pull the screen, you will loose all of the oil in the sump( dump the oil first- if there is no drain plug then use the discharge side of the oil pump, and start the compressor and let the compressor oil pump "PUMP OUT THE OIL", and shut down the compressor when the oil flow stops). also , if you have a compressor with low oil pressure, reverse the compressor rotation and see if there is any change in oil pressure. a lot of times the oil pressure will come up due to using the other side of the crankshaft/ rods that has no wear , this includes the oil pump also. the pump is designed to pump in either direction!!! ( over the years I did my fair share of compressor rebuilding too, like all the way down to nothing but parts)
@@gregoryclemen1870 I've replaced a handful of oil pumps and had them apart on Carlyle D series in particular I'm pretty certain I've never seen a screen, or a port on the case like Copeland does. It's possible someone ripped out the screens by chance. What am I missing? I've def used the reversing to start old comps sitting off for years too, make sure you know where the main breakers are 😂. Great tip, I use the outlet of the oil pump on compressors that have a little more then ample oil level to fill ones that are low to get through the night and see what happens later.
Too sketchy and "slangy" for beginners. Someone could redo this video with multiple stops-for-explanation to explain the mechanics and vocabulary of what's being said. As with many videos like this, if you can understand what's being said, you don't need to watch it.
I agree you make valid points, watch it over and at work listen to your peers, learn thermo dynamics. I suppose at the time I was targeting people who already have experience. Oil issues can be very troublesome, this video is put out for techs that have a base level of Rack knowledge and some small commercial refrigeration experience. Thank you
@@stevep3089 Yes, almost every sentence of the audio could use a paragraph of explanation and context. That would be very helpful to beginners - in 2 ways 1) the 'what's going on part 2) how pros talk about job situations and the shorthand used. RU-vid has an automatic text generator if somebody wanted to make a project out of it. I just watched this video about check valves where the vlogger does a stop-explanation near the beginning. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0pBP77xnfBs.html (Check valves are a simpler issue than all the things "cut across" in your video. But still, a fleshed out explanation of the various "plot twists" would be a great exercise for beginners.) .
This is one of those videos where: if you understand what he's doing, you don't need to watch it. Someone with good teaching/commication skills could take this video and add instructive sections with diagrams of what he's talking about.
Another thing to check is for bad oil floats. Valve off oil to compressor 1 at a time see if oil returns to other compressors. Checking compressor capacity for bad valve plates quickly you can feel your blowing high to low, compressor body abnormally hotter end bells or body as compared to others. Just a quick check before gauge check. Remember too suction will go up through oil float or refrigerant boil off on off cycle. Also use temp gun on heads and compare temps with other compressor heads. This could catch an offending valve plate. Pistons probably ok. No sound of crank rod or excessive vibration. Just a heads up.