Something very obvious about really high quality surfers these days is how much time they seem to have up their sleeves. Gabriel Medina for instance, often looks like he’s just loping along, doing a whole lotta nothing…then in a flash, he’s heading straight up into the lip. Or Jamie O’Brien, whose drops and turns at Pipeline of all places seem performed so casually they almost look lazy.
The appearance masks a vital style point. It’s not an illusion. Good surfers don’t just appear to have more time - they’re actually taking it. What about the rest of us?
Nick Carroll offers valuable advice on how slowing down can help your surfing.
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7 мар 2022
