Thank you for this clear, easy to understand video. I converted mine today. My 14 foot Jon boat went from 6 Kts max (no plane) to 18 Kts. All for $400! Very much appreciated!
What was the website that you shopped to buy the stuff? I just bought a brand new EFI 9.9 Suzuki. I wanted your video but on my phone it’s hard to see and you went through pretty quick.
This is totally legit! Suzuki made a 20 hp motor and detuned it to sell 9.9 models. You don't need to buy the seal, ONLY the flame arrestor and the ECU. You can put the flame arrestor into the existing rubber gasket. But no doubt, this turns your 9.9 into a 20 hp. The ONLY part numbers that are exclusive to the 9.9 are the restrictor plate and the ECM. After doing the change, the ONLY part numbers different between the 9.9 and the 20 are the decals!
Yes but i wanted to keep all the 9.9 parts unharmed to swap back to 9.9 if i want to. The 9.9 restrictor comes attached to the seal to remove it you have to cut some rubber rivets then will spin.. did that before. And has that star shape inside. The 20hp seal is smooth on the inside endge and the flame arrestor removable
one thing that is interesting, suzuki doesn't make a 20hp console steer model, but they do make a 9.9hp console steer model. DF9.9BT EFI - so this could be a way to get a 20 hp console steerer.
I love that you did this video! The part of AZ I live in has a hp limit of 10 hp. So I ordered the 9.9 and when I go to bigger lakes and rivers ill do the 20 hp thing and be much happier! Thank you!
Thanks for both this and the Speed test video. Don't know Why anyone would give these a thumbs down?? You provide a Great Service. The 9.9 Allows access to limited H.P. Lakes as well. Love that your Son is there with you!
Ok, I recently did this conversion, and did so after speaking to a Suzuki tech who said the ECU from a 20hp is not needed, the stock ECU will adjust to the added airflow just fine and it did. Runs great, I even checked the spark plugs and they look good not running rich or lean.
Great information and well done. Thank you for sharing! You are helping folks out who are stuck with 10 hp limits and have a fat friend to fish with! LOL
@@TampaTom lol i have had my wife and two kids just little over 500 lbs with the 20hp planes fine! Top speed was reduced to 22mph from 27mph but still alot of fun. 9.9 struggled to hit 16mph with all of us
I did the upgrade from 9.9 to 20 hp. And it worked. Unbelievable what a difference that makes. Never knew the 9.9 was capable of doing the things I experienced yesterday. Boat comes easily in plane now. And speed is Unbelievable! Thanks
@Erwin : mind blowing right? 😀 awesome! You welcome. Since the upgrade i have only gone back to 9.9 once. I love the extra power. Really the 9.9 motor was born a 20hp. The factory restricts It to half the hp to sell a 9.9.
What an awesome idea. Very simple. My guess is that the ACU difference is only programming. Nothing physical. If you could have a dealer flash it. You could save 400 dollars. Still. What a great conversion. And a huge money saver
Thank you! Thank you! I ordered the parts in the video from the same place you got yours. Install was easy. Also changed to 11 pitch prop as you suggested in your other video. My 10’ Caribe flies. Got 24mph. You Da Man!!!!!
I guet 28.6MPH on a 14 foot fiber glass fishing boat if It's only me a my kid on board. This is from the 10 inch pitch prop. So maybe with your boat, you are over proping it, preventing max RPM? Install a tach and see if you hit 6300RPM
@LaingEj Some claims of this works fine without the ECU change, have you tried with original ECU and if not, can you do it to confirm? It is suppose to add for the increased air volume anyway..?
The reason for buying the same motor but with a lower HP rating , then upgrading to higher power with easy simple component changes like this vid is labeling. Nobody, without taking the motor apart would know it's a 20 instead of a 9.9. Now he has a 20 on his boat rated for 9.9 and pays cheaper insurance
Can you please publish the full Model Code Sequence of your engine, with elect start, and Tiller steer wit 15" shaft, etc? I believe what you have is a DF9.9B series at is in the same class as the DF20A and DF 15A. I notice that there is a DF9.9A series which is in a different model group. Please clarify what you have. Please include the codes that follow the B Series designation. Thanks. Your videos sold me on getting a new Suzuki!.
Would it be financially better to buy the 20hp and just switch out the 20hp sticker/decal for a 9.9? Seems those parts are pricey and the work to swap them.
You know i tought about that too but liked the idea of have two outboard options.. like right now im going to do alot of trolling gona get cold i wont be going fast so i switch back to the 9.9 with a 7” pitch prop .. gives me more flexibility having two power options
My question to you and anyone in the group who completed the upgrade to either 15 or 20hp is whether a noticable increase in power was noted at low to mid RPMs, or only at the high end because the WOT max was increased? For example would I expect to have greater speed (and therefore greater fuel consumption) at say 3500RPM (my expected typical cruising speed) after converting to 15 or 20hp? Thanks!
LaingEJ, Awesome video buddy.. Keep up the good work to educate rookies like me who is about to get his new outboard for the first time.. Found it very useful. I was leaning towards Merc 9.9 but I am now thinking of Mercury 9.9 due to it longevity and easy maintenance
does anyone know if there is an option to modify suzuki 20 hp to 25? hull manufacturer recommends maximum 25 hp and I have 20 and I do not really want to change the whole engine if from 9.9 you can so easily to 20, maybe the 5 hp can still be squeezed out?
First of all, thank you for the great videos, including the other one with the propeller comparison. I`m looking to buy the DF15A since this is the maximum my inflatable is supposed to be able to withstand. But you never know what the future may bring, so this video definitely caught my attention. However, there is something I do not understand: the official Suzuki brochure lists DF9.9 and DF15 with a 44 kg weight (97 lbs) whereas the DF20 is supposed to weigh 48 kg (106lbs). Where is the difference coming from? I doubt the DF20 is sold with a 4 kg / 9 lbs heavier propeller... :)
@danieldumanescu : youre very welcome. The 106lbs is the electric push start model.. thats the one i have ! is a little heavier mostly because of the starter motor.. the pull cord start models are 97 lbs
@@Cutlass_Rudd nice to know, i wasn't aware of that fact! But it's not as simple as change a restrictor and slamming in a new ECU, I suppose, to get to 20hp
I noticed this the other day comparing mercury engines. If they have the same displacement, bore, stroke they are the same engine de tuned. Doing this might void the warranty though. That being said when the warranty is up I’m doing this lol
This explains a lot for me. I had noticed that a lot of these 9.9 and 20 hp motors had the same displacement. I thought it was just a typo. Basically either just charging you an extra few hundred dollars for a better ECU which cost the same as the lower horsepower to manufacture.
It's not better ECU, etc, it cost of production, 9.9, 15, and 20 all have the same tooling, easier on inventory with just a few easily changed components and labels. If there is a big demand for 9.9's, no need to start making more, as in this case, change the restrictor plate, and labels and good to go. Cost of production reductions is profits
@@laingej Yes there is a way - what you need is a programmer like Piosini ver 4.3 (abt 60 US $) and a bin file from 20 hp engine. It is advisable to use soft from the same year model engines and MANDATORY from the same model line - i.e BS for BS, BRS for BRS etc. Otherwise you have a problem. First you save the original file from you ECU. So if you need to go to the dealer, you can reflash the original. But I have not heard about any major problems directly related to ECU flashing. Ther are a lot of 9.9/20 around here which are 6+ years old now. If you need more details, please feel free to ask.
@@ivannaumov461 nice! Have you done it? I read about it in some forums but could not find anyone that actually did it. Thats would save you at least $300.
@@laingej When I bought the motor back in 2015, the process was not public yet, so I paid about 100 $ to somebody who did it for me. Now you can find it in the Internet. This link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cG2qGSxpiL8.html - was published in THIS discussion comments some time ago. Its in Russian, but you can understand the process. All the necessary files are in the comments below the video. If you do not understand something, I will try to help
I guess if you already have the 9.9, this makes sense. However, if you're buying the engine new, it's cheaper to buy the 20 than it is to convert a 9.9 to a 20.
Could you not just have removed the restrictor plate and not put anything in? i know the part was cheap but may have meant more air intake with no plate at all.
@Tom Tom You could but the mesh is actually a safety device.. help prevent motor catching on fire if it backfires out the intake. And like you say its cheap so why not put it on.
I wanted to ask if this would work for the 15 hp Suzuki could you convert it to a 20 by changing out the restrictor plate and the ECM, or is exclusively only for the 9.9 hp to 20 hp?
you would need the 15hp ecu to get the 6000 rpm redline. Costs the same as doing in the 20hp convertion so why not get 10hp instead of 5hp for the same price
Thanks for this excellent video ! I just bought a 27' 7000 pound sailboat that came with this 9.9 HP engine in an extra long shaft (25") model. You may be interested to know the 20 hp model is not available with the extra long shaft. Doubling the HP will make motoring into strong head winds and currents WAY more doable. This is a game changer for those of us with heavy displacement sailboats, thanks again !
I'm in a similar boat (nyuk nyuk!). 29ft about same weight as yours. About how much extra speed did you gain from the change? I was considering just going up to 15 by changing the plate. Thanks. DonC
I just bought a brand new 2021 Suzuki 9.9 fuel injected. Followed your instructions and got the ECM and the flame resistor with the silencer. But I noticed you talking about propeller pitch. What comes on these motors from the factory? Is it the 9 inch pitch? And if so should I switch to a 10 inch pitch? What’s the difference between an 11 inch pitch and a 10 inch pitch?
@jason same part numbers you see in the video, mine is a 2020 electric start. Remote or not is the same.. the pullcord only is different part number ecu... then the grommet and flame arrestor same for all
Yes 5hp more you will notice.not a huge difference like going from 9.9 to 20 but Not sure if it would be worth it for you.. but it also will rev higher to 6300 rpm with more torque..the 15hp tops at 6000rpm ..you maybe getting like 5mph gain on top speed
Most likely yes! If they find out. 🤫 I could not wait 3 years to do it so .. i did it . They are very reliable motors not see me having warranty issues with it in 3 years. But if i did you cant just put every back to 9.9 and take it to a shop.
Two queries arise for me. First off, unless the water you're sailing on has restrictions, why ever return to the 9.9 set-up? I can't believe the fuel consumption is improved by that restrictor plate except by stopping you using more power, but if you don't... Secondly, is it worth the extra cost and weight, plus battery hassles of the electric start? In your videos, starting seems if anything even more instantaneous with the pull-cord.
@@edwinlaing9834 Thanks. A benefit for many, maybe, but I have an alternator on my Tohatsu 6HP 'saildrive' and don't have it wired up - the engine only runs for short periods entering or leaving the marina; it's main problem is starting reliably with a sensitive choke.
At 2:52 after you put in the new restrictor plate, is that for more air intake? On the top it said "engine oil", can engine oil get in there that air intake or suppose to be only air? Why there is a big label saying ENGINE OIL if it's air intake I'm curious.
Hi, please help me, in outboard upgrade Tohatsu MFS9.9EEPS to MFS20EEPS the motor is the same, they must have the same restrictions... please help me...
Congratulations, this information just jacked up the price of the 9.9 to be exactly that of the 20 hp model. So save yourself to $500 in upgrades, and just buy the 20 hp model. Then register your boat, don’t pretend the authorities don’t know that you upgraded your 9.9.😂
What are the chances of getting caught on a 9.9hp lake with this conversion? Also, would it be cheaper to buy a 20HP and just swap the sticker, or is it stamped 9.9hp?
Hey laingej U convinced me to upgrade my ECU, but the dealer told me that I've to do the break in period again. This because all data is not copied ofcourse. Is there a way to skip the break in period in the software (I also bought after watching you're vids) thanks in advance Greetings from the Netherlands robert satoer
I have Tohatsu 15 hp efi, 2018 and I want do the same thing to convert it to 20 hp but...ecu cost 800$! I wonder if is possible to re programm my ecu to 20. I think is the same only software is diffrent....
It seems there are at least 2 choices for the 20hp ECM and that choice depends on what year and variant of the DF9.9 you are upgrading?? Could you (or anybody else) please help me decide whether the part you installed (33930-89L20) or the 33930-89L30 would be better suited for my engine (DF9.9BT: 2021, with electric start, power trim and remote control (not steering)? Many thanks
Is it just the high-end power that is different when you do the mod? I.e. low-end torque should be the same? I'm mostly interested in better towing the kids in my little 10 foot RIB. Have a 9.9 Merc at the moment but would like to be able to take 2 adults and 2 kids on the lake to tow an inflatable tube. The 9.9 works well when it's just me and one kid but I think it would struggle with another 250lbs (1 more adult and 1 kid).
Just a question? Did you also change the prop? I believe the 9.9 prop is different than de 20. Or didnt you feel the need after testing the 20 hp upgrade?
@@laingej what you suggest for a 4.95 mtr boat? Type is Gentle 495. A 10 or 11 inch prop? I think the 10 is more agressive in the throttle compared with the 11
Thanks for this video! After watching it, I went out and bought the Suzuki 9.9 2022 model. It seems identical to yours, electric and recoil start. I was just watching it again to make sure I got the parts right before ordering them. And then I wondered. since they are Mitshibushi parts, would they be cheaper if bought from Mitshibushi? I am researching this, but wondered if you, or your readers, already found this out? Please let me know what you found. I am not going to convert it until I am sure the 9.9 won't do the job adequately.
Are you absolutely sure you need the ECU from a 20hp? I spoke with a former Suzuki tech and he said it's not needed, that the 9.9 ECU is the same and it will adjust to the increased airflow
I have the 9.9hp and installed a tachometer to track RPM and hours. My 9.9hp hits the rev limiter at 5,700 rpms which is also what the manual says the 9.9hp max RPM is. The 20hp max RPM is 6,300 , so yes the 20HP ECU is required to at least get the full RPM range of the 20hp. I also am betting the 20HP ECU has different fuel tables
@@travismorgan4249 Doubt it, the air flow meter adjusts the fuel if there was an issue the plugs would be too lean or rich but they have been perfect which tells me the ecu is doing it's job. All I did was swap out the air restrictor and put an 11 pitch prop on it and it's been running great for months now. If I'm missing a few hundred RPM who cares it's not worth $400 to find out even if I am or not the motor is running great with no issues.
That mesh has area, takes up space and creates turbulent air flow into the throttle body. I’ll let you know. I have the 15 that I have converted to the 20 hp with a 10 “ pitch stainless on a 12’ aluminum. Thanks for all your videos. They’re great!
Thanks. But I got some issues because the engine don't start after I have change the ecu... I have a 9.9B from 2014 and I buy the ecu from the same gear as the 9,9. Do you have som idé?
Is the valve gap spec. the same? The owners manual actually calls for adjusting the gap periodically which is a pretty involved procedure that I have been ignoring on my 15hp version of this motor. It's been two years since you posted this. Have you had any problems in that time?
I have not looked in to that.. dont know the details but yes i know the 25 and 30 are the same 3 cyl engine .. just figure out what the difference is and swap the parts
Hey thanks for the response. Looking at the specs the 25 and 30 are identical besides the ecu. Cant really tell if the restrictor plate differs, but seems like it should just be those two to convert to a 30. Great videos, not much info on suzuki's out there so it really helps
Thank you so much for putting this together. Probably a difficult question to answer however I will ask it anyway for anyone who may have an opinion. Is it likely there will be a similar strategy for the new 2023 models that are out. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a new (in 2023) 9.9 BTHL5 and will be curious if a conversion to a 20 hr will be possible in near future. Thanks again for this. It is fantastic.
Dude, you are the man! Question- are you curious how the performance kaboat may have handled this higher hp? Because of the inflatable v hull? I'm interested in your thoughts.
Maybe , i never been in one of them but should cut the wakes better. I have to slow down in mine for other boats wakes or im flying in the air like hitting a speed bump lol thats the down side of more power on inflatables. Does great on a flat day. But yeah with higher speed the harder it pounds.
