When you took the clutch apart I noticed the outer friction disk was in the wrong slot. You did correct that. Maybe you should have mentioned that. As far as the Clutch Mod. I prefer the Mod you used. Or the one piece Mod. I'm sure some will disagree. But far as I'm concerned the welded fix will never be balanced properly. Good video...!
The plate wasn't in the wrong slot, it only goes in one place, it just came out stuck to the outer pressure plate and I flicked it back in, and you are right, some argue that a welded mechanism isn't balanced, and the one piece billet ones are way outside my price range, this is the third one of these I've actually fitted, they work a treat and have never let me down!
@@Moonfleet41 Not to argue... But I watched the video again. The last friction is in the long slot as you remove the pressure plate. And when you reinstall the pressure plate you have moved it to the short slot where it should be. I was agreeing with your Mod. The ring you installed is a Good fix and holds up well and presents no balance problems.
Aa a welder myself i would have no worries about balance if TIG welded by a professional as the weld would be an even width all the way round and that width would be small, say 3mm wide. Being so close to the centre of rotation, any imbalance would be negligible and would have no detrimental effect.
I've watched 4x other Busa 1 videos, the first friction plate is not in the same slot as the rest i.e. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mprbDAiDt3s.html as such Del is correct.
Is there a place for option 4, to replace with a new slipper clutch? Then you do not lose the benefit of the job it does. Or is it too expensive/ not work having anyway?
Hi guys maybe someone can help me with some knowledge, my busa year 2000 when I press tha clutch in gear without turning tha engine on does not disengage when I push it forward, can someone help ......
Did your clutch jerked during launching? Mine is doing some violent jerking occasionally if you are launching it. I have been recommended to install all new OEM clutch steel plates along with friction's, but I'm guessing that it might not be solved until this kind of modification is done.
Hello, I also want to buy this piece! I'm from Romania and I have a Hayabusa from 2001 and I want to install a similar part, where can I order it? can you give me a link? Thanks!
I followed these steps on my 2013 Gen 2 Busa but now, my bike dies after releasing the clutch on initial start up. Anything that I may have done incorrectly?
Er, doing away with the slipper clutch is not a good idea. Are spares not available?? This is a backward step mod if I ever saw one. Also, 9:47. Again, if that was supposed to be a lock washer, then surely it would be? You do not mention why you decided to take that step, as I am presuming all bolts and nuts are torqued to spec?
Hi dear .. I have hayabusa gen 2 .. And i have issue .. When the gear on position 3 and RPM high then when i leave the throtel i got like a cut when RPM arrive to like around 7 do you think this issue due to this part you work on ?
Hello, I really liked the video. I have a B King, I would like to know if it is convenient to do the same as you did, I would also like to know the accessory that you install and the torque tool that you use, thank you very much.
Do you know if a similar kit is available for the TL1000R? If so is it possible to use the standard springs so as not to make the lever heavier and reduce the strain on the slave cylinder?
They should have put some rubber between it or springs. Mine makes a little rattle sound. The space between the metal. You can hardly hear or feel it. But it doesn’t bother me. Its how its made.
Not sure if it matters now the the lock up washer is installed but there are two dots on the clutch cam set that are misaligned. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3_-FFf0dVSE.html
I did the mod on my previous Hayabusa by welding it. Got another Hayabusa now, fairly high mileage, and definitely want to do the mod again. I like the idea of the spacer ring though. However my question is more on that lovely torque wrench setup you have there. Where can I find it online?
There is a link below the video that that T-Bar Torque Wrench, along with a link to the parts used on the bike.. Good luck with yours, hope this helps.
Great Video - I can't see the link to the seller who sells the schnitz locking ring for hyabusa clutch, I live in Australia and the cost to have it sent from Schnitz racing is almost the same in postage as the same for the part. Any suggestions would be most welcomed.
delboy, did the mod, all looked good, but now im struggling to find first gear and when its in gear, bike wont move,also a clicking sound coming from clutch side, stripped down that side again and all looks ok
Is it wrong I'm checking out your tools? 😉 ☺ 😂 I love my ugga chugga gun and was admiring your torque screwdriver but don't use one often enough to warrant the price. Cheers matey.
Aha, but therein lies the paradox, you may not use one, or find life hard without one, but if you buy one, you'll soon find a million uses for it, and reach for it all the time.. and for the huge nuts on front sprockets and clutch baskets alone, they are a really handy option.! and with a fleet of training bikes to keep rolling, i guarantee you'll 'justify the buy'..! so if you buy one, then ill buy a 360 camera (which i definitely don't need.!lol)
ha ha yeah, "no you go first"..! The impact gun i use is a fancy programmable one that works through an app, 300Nm torque, lots of features you won't need, hardly for occasional DIY use anyway.. it was over £400 with both batteries and the charger, but like all these tools, It's the batteries that cost the money, and once you have a pair of batteries, and charger, you can buy the bare hand tools for more like £100 a go.. drills, impact drivers for woodwork, angle grinders, power saws, any hand held power tool you can think of.. as long as it uses the same batteries, just buy the tool.. Once you swallow the heavy first purchase of a kit with two batteries and charger, it gets a lot more cost effective from there.. Here's a few link that may help, 'Russ' (who owns Spanner Monkey) does them all at really competitive prices, and would be happy to work you out a deal if you call him direct, tell him i said hi.. www.spanner-monkey.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=+Milwaukee+M18+&description=true !
@@RoadcraftNottingham Oh right, Duh, sorry, "must try harder". Thats a 5Nm to 14Nm Torque Driver There's a link under the video to it, but yer Tiz' www.spanner-monkey.co.uk/Wiha-Torque-T-Handle-ST-Plus-TorqueVario-Set-29234?search=wiha+torque+vario&description=true
Believe you can mate, but just check the website, the link is below the video in the 'description', they certainly offer them for the TL1000 and SV1000, and I think I saw one listed for the big Jix14...
Great video del glad you're back doing the bikes but I did enjoy all the videos of the move both of you stay safe and looking forward to more videos 🇬🇧👍
Hi Delboy, I want to share information. I ordered this part (hayabusa 99-07) and installed it in a suzuki gsx 1400 year 2006, it fits. same clutch hayabusa and gsx 1400😉
@@Moonfleet41 UPDATE several times my clutch slipped at higher speeds after installing that part... it was very annoying at 150 km/h when it slips and then catches again... I took the part off... something didn't fit right and I wouldn't recommend it if that part is installed on gsx 1400... I wouldn't like someone to install it and then something happens... very annoying when at high speed the slats slip and then catch again,... Sorry
@@tomislavknezovic1 I don't know what you're referring to by clutch slip, if you're referring to the lock up ring that stops the back torque limiter from operating, then it can't slip if it's correctly fitted as it locks the mechanism solid... so not sure what happened for you, but never had a problem with mine on the Hayabusa... but thanks for your input!
Not everyone's favourite ... But hey when a Clutch is due it's due . Between et toi Del and Moi was gonna like into 1 st sec's ( Promise I didn't 🤞 .) . Although there good ? Clutches From factory / Race type ain't They ? Not been many aftermarket ones available ? Till now 😁 .. Damm ... 55 thou or so from new on mine .. I'll wait till the Achilles heal ., Clonk etc ... Nice kit it seems . P.s... knew someone with Busa trouble a main dealer resisted changing the Clutch ...They had no choice in the end . I did warn Him . I don't think He test rode it ..
Way to go mate! I'm getting ready to do this to my 2002 Hayabusa I'm getting weird slipping clutch issues under full throttle where it almost like feels like you're pulling in the clutch lever instantaneously and I come to find out it's the ramping crap and I get the knocking at idle with the clutch lever out too it's very annoying. I can't wait to do this tomorrow. Thanks for a great excellent video also to anyone doing this always get the Gen 2 clutches cuz they have more clutch material than the Gen 1.
It’s a constant mesh clutch not a slipper clutch, the idea being it limits back torque on down shifts and stops the wheel from locking. But the original clutch causes issues on launch if you get it in between the area of revs between it engaging and disengaging causing a hairy launch. Also if you have fitted stiffer springs you really need to beef up the mount for the slave cylinder mount as they are notorious for cracking and falling apart with heavy duty springs.
not got a booser but as they say knowledge is power :) Del didnt yu have to clean that cover surface we know yu put grease on it but the mating surface looked a little tacky. I was waiting for you to clean off the surface so the mating the pair has a good seal ?
Many bikes have that style of back torque limiter mate, TL1000's GSX1400's etc.. so it will hopefully help a lot of riders.. and i fitted that casing back when i bought the bike, it's a new gasket, Hylomar on the casing, and grease on the engine..(what you saw in the gasket was grease), i just topped it up for a good seal .
delboy, fitted the part and new springs but then struggled to get a gear and when i did and let clutch out, bike wouldnt move and i heard a clicking sound coming from clutch side, any ideas ? thanks
Hola me gustó mucho el vídeo. Yo tengo una B King, me gustaría saber si es conveniente hacer lo mismo que usted hizo, también me gustaría saber el accesorio que usted instala y la herramienta dinamométrica que utiliza, muchas gracias.
I have a '97 TL1000S and the clutch ramp system apear slightly different to this in terms of its size however i cant confirm that as it was welded before i bought the bike. The clutch did slip slightly on hard throttle but a set of Barnett clutch springs put an end to that. Great video Del and i love seeing these little snippets of difference with the different bikes. Loving the triumph build but will admit to skipping a few episodes due to being a long term subscriber and seen the caliper rebuild on the ZX7, caliper rebuild on the Busa... so occasionally its a case of same footage, different bike. Always around for the fresh stuff though and aways will be. Be well D&P.
Thanks Bert, we just upload the projects that come along, and I think maintenance and refurbishment videos can always benefit from being refreshed and done again, because people don't tend to watch your back catalogue as much as the fresh ones! Plus of course if it's their specific bike they're more likely to watch it, but agreed, if you're a long term viewer then some subjects will come round a second time... I guess it goes to show how much stuff we've covered over the years! Thanks so much for your support, we really appreciate it!
I didn't know that the Busa had such a simple, cheap and effective slipper clutch. Clever idea, but obviously there is wear in the end. Good that you showed us a simple way to solve the problem. Thanks from Nürnberg/Germany, Günter
Glad to help Günter , It's actually a common mechanism in many Suzuki models, TL1000, GSX1400 etc, and does indeed suffer with wear, and after 40k miles, mine was playing up, so time to lock it up and eliminate it from the system. Have a great weekend and keep safe. Del.
Hey brother far away good afternoon to you and ur family...I hope all's well and you safe..I guest by now you in the new shop..do have a bless afternoon and..as always I enjoy all your vedios ..jobs always clean 😷❤👍👏✌
Thank you David, It is good to be all moved in and back to bike videos, and of course to be enjoying our new HQ.. take care and enjoy your weekend Sir, all the best. Del.
Hey Del I would like to offer my help as I can weld the slipper mechanism for you and you can be sure that it will not break, if you want to take me up on my offer then just let me know as I want to anyone I can during these tough times.
To be precise it's not called a 'Lock up clutch' that's a different thing entirely.. The factory fitted feature is actually called a "Back Torque Limiter", it's purpose is to mitigate the effects of engine braking when riders decelerate. Simply put, it helps prevent the back wheel locking up when you roll off the throttle at high revs... and as the bike wears with mileage and use, the device can be come unreliable and is prone to deploy under initial acceleration.. leading to the bike lurching forward when you try to pull away. So if this is happening to your bike, then you can either weld the two halves of the device together or fit this locking ring to stop it moving... then you will have a regular conventional clutch operation..!
The first clutch friction plate was in the wrong place, until you shifted it,, but then you knew that ;). Im going to do that mod to mine but i will weld it i think, looking forward to the slave cylinder mod too
Sure thing buddy, welding works if you're good enough at it, but it must be TIG welded and unless you're gonna weld it all the way round, make sure you space the welds evenly for balance, but I'm absolutely sure you knew that lol
great information bro ! glad to see you back with the projects !!!! cheers 🍻 great video ! stay safe guys !!!! ps , in the future a Q & A live stream would be awesome !!!!
If you need to ever replace your "conical" washer they are called Belvoir washers and are available in different sizes in the engineering world so you wont need to go the the bike shop for your new one and as already said they are a one use device.
Of course not, that is fine, the pump is not left dry when the bike is on the stand, it will still feed oil to the engine quite adequately on the sidestand.
Really enjoyed the big move videos into your new workshop Del, but this is what we've all been waiting for, you getting back to doing what you do best, working on repairing and modifying motorcycles 👍 Great to see the old Busa back on the bench, I've seen this modification done in the past with the solid or welded unit, but never with this configuration, another great job Del, already looking forward to watching the next video back to back with this one...... ⏳⏳⏳
Thank you Graham for your very kind words, it's great to be back in deck and making bike videos again, only so much bumping and shifting you can watch aye.. Hope you enjoy the coming videos, lots of variety and interesting stuff... take care and have a good weekend. Del.
I haven’t got a Hiabusa I just enjoy your videos great work as always I really like the small torque wrench spanner are the expensive ? Keep up the great work 👍👍
Hi Dale, thanks for your kind words, the small precision torque wrench isn't cheap, bit it is a premium quality tool, which is important for those smaller toque values that can be easily stripped. I posted a link to the tool under the video mate.
I've heard about this mod, but had never seen one being fitted. Now I understand. Thanks. New shop looks awesome, and the audio is crystal clear. The wall panneling must be a winner
Thanks mate, simple enough mod aye? And for those who can't weld to the right standard, or afford to buy performance parts, this is a perfect nut and bolt fix... and thanks for your kind words, the textured walls and the open roof have made a difference!
I like the vid dal BUT you used to do a longer vid I like it better when you show a lot more instead of cropping a lot out and no I won’t get bored I like it when you did the triumph vids stay safe mate best wishes to penny
Hi Steve, thanks for the feedback mate. the length if any tutorial video is directly related to the task itself. things like chain and sprockets, Head stock bearings or a brake caliper rebuild.. those jobs take a couple of hours in real time.. but this mod takes maybe 20 minutes to fit, end to end.. so the video will always reflect that.. We will do more in the future mate, and they will always vary depending on how long the actual job takes.. Thanks again for oyur support, and have a great weekend.. Pp says hi.
Great video Del & Penny. The new place is looking excellent mate. Hope things are starting to get better over there, we are doing ok this side of the pond. Penny & you have a great weekend and stay safe. Cheers
H mate, Yes indeed, we now have a promised date that it all apparently ends, and no more restrictions.. 21st June, midsummer day.. so we shall see and hopefully they'll stick to it, i guess it all depends on how the infections rates go and if people can toe the line and not go berserk and kick off another flood again.. Sunny weekend here, so been out on the Busa for a little pootle, time to catch up on admin and chill for a bit.. take care there and keep safe. D&Pxx
Good plan buddy, I've always fancied one myself, we even have a decent track not too far away, but there always seems to be something else to spend the money on!
Yes Del I had to learn the hard way, 30 years ago I had a Suzuki GS 750, I was adjusting the valve clearances, I’d made a tool to lever the valve buckets down to remove the cam shims with a old Allen key, but couldn’t get enough leverage on the key, so I used a small length of pipe to extend leverage, and yes you’ve guessed right, it slipped off and the bloody Allen key disappeared down the timing chain hole, my heart sank, major engine strip down😩 but I was so lucky, after many hours with one of those magnets that look like the car aerial I fished it out, boy was that a relief 😅 that’s when I decided to block the hole up before Continuing adjusting the cams, workshop is looking great, that’s a good cheap mod cheers Del ⚙️🔩🔧👍
HAHAHAHA.. Mate, i feel your pain, i was that man too.. literally dropped and actual shim down the chain shaft.. Bastardicus maximus.. had no fancy car aerial magnet thingy.. turned the engine upside down in vain hope.. and the shim went up under a piston skirt and lodged tight.... but at least pulling only the top end off gave me access up under the piston... lessons we never forget aye mate. Thanks for your kind words, have a great weekend.. Del.
Thank you Dean, we just re-launched the merch after the previous company closed down, a much better range and I particularly like the neck tubes, but of course a coffee mug is essential equipment, so good thinking mate, and thanks for your purchase!
It's a new gasket, I changed it during the project and if you haven't been following our channel for a while, my general practice with all casing gaskets is, after cleaning both faces thoroughly, I stick the gasket to the casing using Blue Hylomar sealant and then just plain grease against the engine, this means the gasket comes off attached 100% to the casing every time, never gets torn or damaged, and that way can be used multiple times with just a freshen up of the grease against the engine side of the gasket! Give it a try mate, it'll save you a lot of money on gaskets you don't need to replace.
@@Moonfleet41 thank you for the thorough and prompt response. I have never heard of an application like that but it does make sense. Wouldn't it be best to at least clean up the mating service on the engine side to help the greased gasket seal properly? I noticed that it was still dirty when you reassembled it.
Love the new place and the way you organized the bolts excellent job Del. I'm surprised that you have never been contacted by tv channel to have your own show it would definitely be a blockbuster hit.
Cheers mate, that's very kind, we did work with Discovery a few years ago for about 7 shows on their Turbo Hub, it was on the same format as Wheeler Dealers, but only a limited run... would be cool to be invited again some day, what a dream come true aye?
Nice to see you in the new shop! Great timing on the clutch video for me as I'm waiting on parts for my clutch now and was wondering if my cordless 1/2" dewalt impact would have the guts to remove the clutch nut on my bike. Also, since the nut on my bike gets staked (like yours) I guess there's no need to get picky about a specific torque setting? Mine happens to need 69ft lbs but a good jab with the impact should do? Thanks for these videos they are very helpful!
It does have a specific torque setting mate, it'll be in your manual and I'm lucky enough to have a programmable impact gun so I just set it to the right torque and trigger it till it stops, it is important to get it right as that pressure will hold the mechanism still and you're right also, staking it the way that you're meant to does give you a belt and braces security!
@@Moonfleet41 I didnt realize you can set your impact to the exact torque that you want, thats awesome! Mine is 69ft lbs, so I'll be sure to use my torque wrench on it, thanks for the quick response bud!
Sure thing buddy, there's a link directly under the video if you click 'Show More', then it's right there, takes you to Spanner Monkey and a buy now link... they're a bit pricey, but rated from 5-14Nm, a very critical torque range for those smaller, fragile threads and it is finest German precision made, you get what you pay for mate.
Great vid, Del... motorcycle Zen achieved! Just wondering with this new set up if there’s more friction and/or heat buildup? Awesome start to the new location. Hope you guys are both doing well. 🏍👍🏍
Hi Gary, i imagine there would be less heat and friction now due to the elimination of slippage on back torque, it acts exactly like a regular ordinary clutch now. Hope you're well too, have a great week and keep safe.. D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41 thx, Del. Ok gotcha on the heat and friction. Reminds me of a buddy’s 916 Ducati I had access to for a few years (before I bought my ST3)- it had the factory dry clutch and I always thought I was doing damage to his bike because of that bizarre noise. Hope the shop is everything you’ve wanted. (I’m putting finishing touches on the laundry room closet today) and eyeing a nice router on sale in Amazon! Never owned one... would be nice! In any event, stay well!
Nice work del. are heavy duty springs the same as stiffer springs? I’m looking to replace mine on my srad 600 because the clutch is far too heavy. Thanks.
Hi Neil, if your clutch is too heavy for you, then stiffer or heavy duty springs (same thing) will make it worse... but if you have a cable then that could be your problem, they can get stiff over the years with internal corrosion so it pays to replace them and if you buy a Slinky Glide cable from Wemoto, they're even smoother in operation, so that could really lighten your level a lot.
Sure thing mate, it's a proper Achilles heel that I can't believe they carrie dover in to the GenII, but it's an easy fix as you can see, so time for some Busa shopping?!
Yay glad to see the spanners turning again learnt a lot from this one considering I've never owned a geared bike before enjoy your weekend both of you and as always ride safe
@@Moonfleet41 thanku you for your answer, a driver gsx suzuki 1400 i think its the same part, what do you think...sorry for my english i am from Bosnia and i watch all you videos and you do great job its good to have you 💯
@@tomislavknezovic1 You're most welcome Sir, thank you for your very kind support, and it's good to hear you enjoy the videos, and they can help you out!
One of my favorite kids of videos that you do, these seemingly 'simple' projects, that when done correctly produce such a positive result! Shop looks great, video quality is awesome! Cheers to you both....ride safe!
Thank you Allen, that's really kind Sir, it's a simple upgrade on the bike to rectify a bit of a weak spot in Suzuki's armour, and having ridden it now, it definitely worked as well! Glad you enjoyed the video, couple more of these to come and then moving on to some more creative stuff!
Hey Del and Penny good to see you all moved in and back on the projects. Great mod on the beast, and as always it's a pleasure watching you crack bolts loose and get down to business. Take care, ride safe!
