If you would like to help support SHOOTRIDELIVE without donating, just shopping and buying things you need anyways, just click on these links and go shop. These companies have been gracious enough to partner with me to help purchase supplies and consumables to keep content flowing. Thank you so much! Aero Precision: bit.ly/2FdPPGz AR500 Armor: bit.ly/2QXzmJ6 ATN: bit.ly/2R7e6kk Crimson Trace: bit.ly/3ieuBXq Gorilla Ammunition: bit.ly/2ZiFHDu Guns Dot Com: bit.ly/35gzPyh LA Police Gear: bit.ly/32beBQu My Medic: bit.ly/3m5eYE3 Palmetto State Armory: bit.ly/3h1qNHV Primary Arms: bit.ly/2ZzVk9V Sportsman's Warehouse: bit.ly/2WQ5YrJ
This is an above average video with a clear speaking American on "How To" repair an inner "loose or damaged nut" that's deep within the clutch housing of a Suzuki Boulevard M109R. Concise, step by step instructions, no frills, no music, just a straight forward, common sense repair, that is well explained as the video progresses. Excellent video Mr. Suzuki Clutch Repairman Thank you!
Awesome video mate, gives me the confidence to get in and have a go myself when I need to. Also, props for the shout out to Andy Medina Snr. who is such a great help to the 109 fraternity.
Great video brother. Very detailed and informative. Much appreciation for explaining what tool you used and how you modified it to work. Thank you 🙏 for making and posting it.
Great video! Personally I always change out the clutch springs with the clutch plates. The little springs lose their strength from exposure to heat, and why not since you are already in there. Sweet bike BTW.
I’m confused by this video. You mentioned that you broke down and you believe it was the tube nut. The tube nut was fine, only loose, it was tightened, what caused you to break down, was it the clutch plates as they presented to be warped? Please advise.
Good you did this video. I should have done it years ago when mine did it at about 25k. I used the old link off a 109 forum that a guy took still photos and good written description to do it. I've had it happen 4 times now, probably because I never use a proper socket tool and just flat screwdriver tap it tight. It goes 1,000 or several thousand miles and does the bucking thing again. I know how to operate the bike in this state, and just get it home to tighten again. Bike is For Sale now at 42,807 miles and it just did again. Now I have to get done before the sale. Other than this of the bike, it's been such a great fun bike from bought used with 11,800 miles to now 31,000 later. I have the biggest tires can get on front and back without rubbing front fender or driveshaft and it rides great with more tire touching the ground while looks fat and wide but not too much. Just what I Should've been from factory. I'm hoping the guy who wants to see it tomorrow will like my offer. If he will buy the EBC new clutches and springs (only about $150 on Amazon) I'll go in and tighten the nut good and put back in the new parts to make him have great bike with new clutch life. I'd certainly take that deal.
Great Video. Hope you'll read my question after 4 years... Could you please tell me the size of the tube nut? I ask because I want buy a tool for it. THX!
Great video brother. Very informative and easy to follow. I do have a couple questions. Is this an issue with all M109R’s or does it only affect certain build years? Also are there any signs that could indicate the nut is starting to loosen?
Great stuff. Thanks for the video. A few explanations online def made it sound way worse than I felt I was capable of doing. (semi mechanical as well). How much did you spend on gasket, clutch plates, tool, etc? Just want to budget correctly... Thanks again.
Great video Joe thanks for posting! You mentioned breaking clutch cables, is that a symptom you had prior and when you say the 109 broke down on you, do you mean the bike came to a complete stop? I've got about 20,000 k (12,000 miles) on my 2012 109r, so far I've never had any issues, sorry to see you and others have. Yes just 12000, up here in Canada we only get about a week of summer per year so it's hard to mile out a bike. Anyway I really appreciate you sharing how to fix this issue
I'm with about 3000 miles on my 9 and just to be on the safe side I replaced the clutch cable with an hydraulic clutch kit and swaped the factory shift star with the custom pro evo shift star .so far so good
Oof topic of clutches. But what are those seats? I've been looking into getting a bit more comfortable gel seats myself. Any advice would be appreciated.
when I start the my 2012 model m109r, the sound of rattling noise comes from the side of the clutch and as soon as you press the clutch lever, the sound stops what is the problem of the thing please help me
What year is your bike and how many miles on it when this happened? Where there any indication something was about to break or did it just shut off? Great vid dude
@@SHOOTRIDELIVE wow...after all that work, the clutch just ended up giving out anyway?! Any idea what happened? (Great vid btw...really appreciate you giving sizes for all the nuts, drives, etc.)
SHOOTRIDELIVE gotcha thanks for the heads up, I have a 2007. Great video, RU-vid needs more of this, not a huge amount of videos for this bike besides the common maintenance stuff
The M109R is a dry sump. "a compact dry-sump lubrication system. It is designed for reduced engine height, a lower crankshaft position and lower center of gravity."
Because the oil pan sits below the clutch basket at the bottom of the motor. There are galleys that allow all the oil to drain from the clutch into the pan. When it sits on the stand, and has had time to drain all the oil is down in the pan.
I had a question I have a M109R and their first gear is hard to go in and kind of make a clunk noise in the gears are hard to go I heard that the m109r or made like that the key is very hard to switch gears is that true the transmission clunks to get in gear
Mine does the same thing and also does a shutter when I take off from first while it is cold. I was thinking about just rebuilding the clutch and putting in a performance kit to see if that helps.
Doesn't appear that you cleaned the basket with the threads. You have to clean that with a solvent to get any oil residue out or your loctite will not set and you risk having these come apart again. Great video though!
@@SHOOTRIDELIVE Good deal...excellent work. I have done about 30 of these over the years and have one in the shop doing it today. A friend wanted me to shoot a video but I decided to youtube it and see what was out there. Just gonna send him yours. Also, for future reference, before you put your clutch cover back on, you should always adjust the pin. take your cable out from the clutch lever so there is no tension on it. Then undo the jam nut on the pin, use a phillips screwdriver and run it in until you feel resistance. Then back it out 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and lock down the jam nut. That sets your adjustment again as when your plates wear, you lose a lot of adjustment on the other side.
I did adjust the pin. I didn't go into all that on video because I didn't want it to go to long and it was about the tube nut. I could have mentioned though, would have been more thorough.
@@SHOOTRIDELIVE Awesome. You did it absolutely correct. I am going to take your video and give it to him and shoot a quick vid of doing the adjustment then.
@@bigpapam109 con que par(Nm) aprietas la tuerca almenada. Me paso lo mismo. Como al chico de video. Hablo de campana de embryague no del eje. Gracias. Saludos desde España
If you would like 5% off your Shooter Lube purchase. Subscribe to my channel, go to the link below, and at checkout type the discount code SRL5 www.shooterlube.com?afmc=1m&
Since it's a semi wet clutch (that tends to be overly dry in most cases), I can see where oiling the steel plates doesn't hurt at all because it starts everything off saturated with oil. I'd put this in the category of "can't hurt and might help".
