www.trailtough.com for the adapter plate- like $160 When you buy the donor engine, be sure to get all the pulleys, alternator, ac compressor and starter. #Suzuki #Samurai #Conversion
Im gearing up to swap my carb 1.3 to a injected 1.6 luckily im way ahead and got the 1.6 16v and everthing that makes it run for free.. But im sure this is gonna take me awhile. Thanks for the vid
Yeah it smells rich when it studders it doesnt do it when you first start driving only after it warms up it runs good cruzing down the rd only happens in the lower gears when you get the rpms up it will lurch while you going its weird thought possible fuel pump pressure issues I havent checked the pressure yet.
I doubt that it's fuel pump/pressure related as I've never heard of fuel pressure going 'up' for some reason. Check the pressure regulator to be sure it's not leaking fuel past the diaphragm. Is your O2 hooked up and working properly ? Computer grounded good ? because if not, the O2 readings won't be accurate and that could cause the computer to throw extra fuel at it. Are you sure you have the correct fuel injector ? Unfortunately there are no numbers on the injector to verify you have the correct one.
Motor mounts work great, you must rotate the passenger side a bit to make it happy but it will be very obvious once you get there. Actually I have never tried pulling both the engine and trans together- just never had a reason to
Hi Mark.. hope you doing great., I need help.... I’m swapping the engine on my Sammy to 1.6 8v. But for some reason the mechanic found out there was gasoline in the oil. The battery was disconnected all the time. Do you have any idea what can be the issue. Thank you very much in advance.
Did the 8 valve have a mechanical fuel pump ? If so, it could be leaking into the engine. Inspect the bottom of the oil drain pan for any metal. If it looks good, you should be good. You can also cut the filter open and look for metal because too much gasoline can hurt the bearings. But you'd need a lot.
Hello there, great informal video. Is the Anchor Industries 2469 the same on both sides or do you need two different PN's. Any other changes because you changed motor mounts?
Same mount fits both sides, you have to rotate them slightly to get them to fit into the engine mount and frame mount, it will be very obvious when you get to that point, then just tighten up the nuts
Hi Mark I’m swapping same engine I want to thank you! Details are clear to make things easier! I do have a question.... did you change the computer or you keep the one from you 1.3? Thank you.
Great!!!! Got it! I’m from California do you have an idea if I’ll be able to pass smog check?? Running stock computer with 1.6 8v? Thank you in advance!
@@edgarhernandez-rs6qp I'm sure it will pass. The thing runs perfect and gets within 1 mpg of what it did with the 1.3. No check engine light, computer is happy, mixture is happy, I can't imagine why it wouldn't pass providing you have a good catalytic converter. My Cat is empty and I can run it inside a closed building for quite a while before I have to open the door. Plus it "looks" original, so it will pass the "visual" test as well. Let us know how it works out
I checked my 1.3 and 1.6 today and both the crank pulleys are 5 bolts. The water pump pulley matches up to. So I suspect you could run the V belt setup on the 1.6, though I'm not sure why you'd really want to... in my case my pulleys on the 1.6 are in really rusty condition so I am considering it... EDIT: I just read that earlier Samurais may have been 4 bolt on the crank, so that explains that.
Hi Mark, Great job on the swapz just wondering which one of the two would be the best fit without having much complications; the Vitara vs swift 1.6 engine? I'm planing to do a bit of off roading nothing serious but aim to add a lift kit and bigger tyres. Any recommendation would be appreciated. Thanks
I'm sorry I didn't get a notification of your comment, just noticed it. You have to stick with the 8 valve engine for the original computer to work because it uses just one injector.
I discovered today I have the same set up .. 1.6 L 8 valve motor with the 1.3 intake & header . the transmission has the complete wrap around spacer .. thanks for sharing I can use the samurai flywheel & clutch .. the starter will match up with the samurai flywheel ring gear ? When I purchased the rig it was missing the starter bolts .. I don't know what starter to purchase , year ? the bottom bolt hole is threaded but the top isn't .. I don't know the correct size bolt to use to make sure the starter lines up with fly ring gear ? ..
Yes you can use the original 1.3 flywheel and clutch. I bought a new starter for a 1990 Sidekick 1.6, the starter pilots into the hole in the transmission so no worries about lining it up. I just put a regular 3/8ths bolt and nut in the top hole and tightened it up. Everything works fine with the existing flywheel.
Hi, I have a 1990 Suzuki samurai and I changed out the 1.3 liter and put in a 1990 geo tracker 1.6 liter in. I even got my adapter plate from trails awhile back and after putting the motor in I stopped working on it. The reason being, I wasn't sure if I needed to change out the PCM from 1.3 to the 1.6 liter. After watching your video, I noticed you didn't say anything about swapping out your PCM. So I'm guessing you kept the same 1.3 liter PCM. I remember on trails website, it mentions the wiring harness from the 1.3 and 1.6 liter has to be modified along with converting the PCM. Trails offers to do the work for around $500. According to your video your using the oreginal wiring harness and the PCM in the 1.3 right. Slightly modifying the wiring harness not the PCM
Correct, I'm running the original 1.3 PCM. You must run the 1.6 throttle body, or at least a 1.6 injector as the 1.3 injector will not flow enough fuel. So I used the complete 1.6 throttle body and had to rewire it slightly right at the throttle body. I talk about it in detail starting at 6:00
Hi Mark I have a 1990 Suzuki Samurai and I took my 1.3 out and put a 1.6 engine in. Just on the 1.6 I had to put the 1.3 head on the 1.6 block. I haven't started it up yet. Since I'm still working on trying to line up my mounts. So my question is do you think with the 1.3 head on a 1.6 block will work. I'm using the 1.3 intake and inj carb just i'm not sure how it's going to run with smaller valves.
When I tried using the 1.3 fuel injector on the 1.6 it was starving for fuel. You couldn't even drive it. You will need a 1.6 throttle body but the problem is, the throttle plate is way bigger than the 1.3 so I don't think you can use the 1.6 throttle body on a 1.3 intake manifold without modification. The other possibility is installing a 1.6 injector into the 1.3 throttle body. They WILL interchange. The injectors look identical. A new 1.6 injector is expensive.
From Colombia After 1995 in Colombia they kept selling them as ( Chevrolet samurai ) Mine is 1999 with mono injector But it runs slow because of the transfer case I am planning on changing the TC transfer case, instead of pinions adding one with chain transfer case. Any suggestion.
Did you have the 1.6 engine mounts? Experiment with those at all? The trail tough instructions say to use the 1.6 mounts, but you ended up using the 1.3 w/ minor mods. I wonder if that's why they say to use the 1.6s- but, just wanted to check see if you looked into this at all~
Yes they sent along some mounts, but they looked tiny (scary)..lol.. so I just used the mounts I mention in the video. BTW, I bought this thing in 2006 and immediately installed the same mounts I mention in the video and they lasted 13 years and were still going strong.
I've drilled out my mounts to accept the 318's, but what about the nub on the mount? It seems like it might hit depending on orientation... are the "wings" both pointing towards the cabin as seen on the drivers side in the video? Any other tips?
@@carlsagan2561 I ground the nub off. Yes, the wings are pointing toward the cabin on both mounts. The passenger side (right side as sitting in the vehicle) is 'clocked' slightly. You'll see what I mean when you put it together. The top of the mount is twisted slightly toward the cabin allowing the holes to line up. May be 10-15 degrees. Driver's side mount is straight up. Also, the stud going into the engine side of the mount is lower than the stud going toward the frame (both sides). Sounds like you are getting close !
@@mark_osborne Interesting! I wouldn't have thought you could grind those off, but it works? The bolt doesn't need that? I guess the other choice would be to modify the mount
Great video! Did you have to use the distributor housing from the 1.3 along with the 1.3 distributor? I'm about to do the same swap on a 94 and I am trying to make sure I have everything before starting.
Also I read someone commented about the their 1.3 pulley being five bolt. Mine is a 5 bolt also. I had a 93 and it was four bolt. The timing belt also was different. The 94 is more rounded as the 93 was more square. I was reading that guys comment and he never answered the year of his Zuk.
@@brianhance8067 Yes, my Samurai is a 91 and it used the 4 bolt pulley, which is why I was forced to get all the accessories along with the 1.6 because it uses a 5 bolt serpentine style pulley. It's a huge upgrade from the old V-Belts !
@@mark_osborne again thank you for your time and information. I may upgrade to the serpentine belt later but as right now I'm only running an alternator so I will probably just use the V belt as I didnt get may extras other than the engine.
Hello, I recently did this swap at 8v and my problem is that someone tried to adjust (the cross screw under the gasoline return and the one with the jam) the injection body. Could I mount the samurai injection body with the 1.6 injector? Or can you help me with an adjustment for the two screws
Yes, you could put the 1.6 injector into the Samurai throttle body and to my knowledge it will run fine. You will be giving up some top end power as the 1.3 throttle plate is smaller than the 1.6 throttle plate.
So I went to purchase a used motor to put into my 94 Geo Tracker replacing the blown original 1.6L 8V. It was advertised as coming out of a 91 Geo Tracker and I never thought once about verifying the size of the motor. I ended up bringing home a 1.3L Suzuki motor. I don't have time or money to look for another motor, any suggestions on how to do a 1.6 to 1.3 swap? What do I need to do to get the transmission to bolt up to the motor?
An adapter is used to adapt the 1.3L tranny to the 1.6L engine. In your case, you have a 1.6L tranny and are trying for a 1.3L engine. You have the reverse problem, and I doubt anyone makes an adapter. The 1.6L tranny is wider than the 1.3L tranny physically, that's why the 1.3L tranny needs an adapter. So there's physically no way to mate a 1.6L to a 1.3L block I would think. I suspect you would require to pick up a 1.3L Samurai tranny and mount that with the 1.3L engine.
Thought of another question =) Did this require a lift? Any issues clearancing the oil pan and axle? Also, would love to see a video of it out on the road!
The 1.6 and 1.3 blocks are the same height from the motor mount locations to the bottom of the oil pan. The 1.6 is an inch and a half (1.5 inch or 38 mm) taller than the 1.3 but it fits under the hood with no issues. Even my AC line fits just fine and it runs above the engine.
@@mark_osborne Interesting! A lot of people seem to talk about issues with the oil pan hitting the axle OR the EFI bits hitting the hood. I wonder if the different motor mounts you used affected that? Very curious. Seems like I'll just have to see what happens with mine.
The one thing I read which makes sense is if you try to use the 1.6 aluminum air cleaner cross over pipe, it will hit the hood. I just used the original 1.3 rubber air cleaner pipe and it works just fine. There is a mile of space between the oil pan and differential.
Considering doing this swap right now as my #2 piston shed some weight recently. I don't believe you mentioned... Are you running the 1.6L wiring, ECU, etc? I'm contemplating trying to use the 1.3 ECU and wiring, based on what's available to me.
Use all the 1.3 wiring, sensors, distributor, etc Except you need to use the 1.6 throttle body as the 1.3 throttle body won't feed enough fuel to the 1.6. I'm running the 1.3 computer ! Fuel map seems just fine. She gets the same MPG after doing the swap.
wow nice conversion. I have a suzuki longbody with the 1.3. It seems to be an easy swap. only the cable cut and soder thing i think this could be a problem for me. could you send me closer pictures or a wireing diagram? best wishes from germany. Sven
Sven reply with an email address and I'll make a drawing, take a photo and email it to you. You could try to private message me if that works for you. Thanks
hi ,, what aboute the carburator samurai ?? does the orignal carb fits in 1.6 and does it need mods to make ? my 1.3 is start burning oil and i want to upgrade to 1.6 8v
Did you use the Samurai fuel pump? I have the same conversion but mine will studder after it warms up in the lower gears when your going down the trail right before you shift and it smells rich when it does it never dies and doesnt do it when cruzing down the rd ive changed distributer plugs and fuel filter its driving me batty.
Smells rich huh. Yes, I am using the stock fuel pump. Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator ? It could leak fuel on the vac side. Mine runs perfect. The 1.6 delivers the exact same fuel economy as the 1.3
I think I might be experiencing the same thing. Getting a bit of a stutter- say around 2k in second with low throttle. Mine doens't seem to like lower rpms + lower throttle. Haven't noticed it smelling rich though. Haven't changed filter here. Mostly same as it was on the previous 1.3L setup. I did find one small fuel leak around the injector, which I've replaced the whole injector unit for a spare- which fixed the leak. But weird stutter is still there. Also, lot's of vibrations. Hood rattles now, tailgate, and the inteior dash rattles so bad It's almost undrivable. I gotta take it apart and find what's buzzin- around the hvac controls. Didn't do that before either. Vibrations are much more present with this setup- I suspect it may have some to do with the 318 mounts being designed for a heavier engine they are therefore very stiff for this application- I'm wondering if I can switch back to stock mounts- I have two sets of brackets.
Yeah I got my samurai with this conversion done I’m having the same problem these two guys are having stuttering pretty bad in the lower RPMs before shifting but cruises dow the road in 5th really good been driving me crazy too
Did the timing change when you put the 1.3 distributor on the 1.6. I actually am doing that same swap right now. I have a 1987 Suzuki samurai and I put a 93 tracker in it 1.6 8v
I actually never put a timing light on it. What I can say is, the old 1.3 really gained a bit of torque when I advanced the timing but I had to run mid grade/premium fuel. She'd ping on regular (87). Since installing the 1.6, I have the timing back in the middle of the adjustment (where the 1.3 started out) and can run 87 octane just fine. When I say middle, I mean in the middle of the range in which the distributor can move. I was very careful to get the distributor installed on the exact same tooth when I swapped it from the 1.3 to the 1.6. Hope this all makes sense. If not let me know.
@@codyswilley Are you swapping in the EFI computer, harness, etc from the '93 Tracker? or will you be running a carb ? BTW you are going to love the added power of the 1.6 - it transformed my Samurai into something it should have been from the factory :-)
I think I read one place that the distributor wasn't a direct bolt on to the 8v, is that the case? Anything special required there or have I been misinformed? Any other gotchas with the swap? PIcking my 1.6 8v up Saturday and getting it ready for a 94' EFI Sammy. =)
Distributor drops right in. Remember, all you're changing is the displacement of the bottom end. The computer is unaware of the larger displacement. You have to elongate the holes on the right (passenger side) motor mount where it bolts to the block. Not sure if I mentioned that in the video. I assume you'll buy an adapter plate from one of the several manufacturers on-line ? It comes with a plate to move the right mount slightly. Otherwise it's a direct bolt in. As I mention in the video, get the alternator, AC pump, and the fan pulley as well as the crank pulley as they ARE different. You will now have a serpentine style belt (2 belts if you have AC)- which you'll love. You won't be sorry- this swap transforms your vehicle. I should have done it 12 years ago !
@@mark_osborne Currently trying to decide between Trailtough and new mounts of LROR and their mounts. The LROR kit seems to have more bits included, but not sure they are needed per say, maybe just different way of doing the same thing. Can't wait to get it going and see the difference. I dyno'd my old 1.3 at 57 HP =)
Yes I see LROR uses adapter plates for both the left and right motor mounts. Not sure why, but it may be an improvement over the Trail Tough kit ? Might be worth the few dollars more. You do not have to remove the steering shaft per their instructions. I forgot about the slight modification you need to do to the clutch cable bracket, LROR covers it in their instructions. Was 57 Hp at the rear wheels? If so, that's actually quite good as the 1.3 is only what 63 hp at the flywheel?
